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Vector01

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Everything posted by Vector01

  1. Finished the Tommy gun. Made with leftover cherry, oak and some other wood (beats me what kind:confused: ). Overall it's 11" long by 2.5" high. Receiver, barrel and clip painted with black acrylic. Stocks finished with minwax dark walnut stain. [attachment=0]tommy2.jpg[/attachment]
  2. Thanks...Was a good excuse to fire up Ol'e Yella While I was at it got some more done on my Thompson model. Already got my rewards. Homemade apple and custard pies You can add gunsmith to the list also. Completely stripped, repaired and refinished an old Winchester 30-30 rifle for my brother in law a while back. [attachment=1]winch before.jpg[/attachment] Rifle as I received it. Broken or missing parts and blueing 70% gone. [attachment=0]winch side.jpg[/attachment] After complete refurb. Took about two months. Miss Kitty would go nuts if she wasn't around my wife. As it is she sits in the window watching until my wife gets home when she goes out. They can't be seperated for long periods of time
  3. The wife's been bugging me for a snowman xmas ornament. Searched on the web and found this one. Changed it up a bit. Made an extra for a friend. 1/4" bb ply, acrylic paints, elmers carpenters glue and a few pieces from my wifes craft supplies. [attachment=0]snowman.jpg[/attachment] http://www.freecraftz.com/snowman.html
  4. Great work The combination of wood and metal is excellent.
  5. Yep...I've seen photos as well as the video of the internals. Nothing extraordinary inside. I was hoping Dewalt placed a gold coin in every 1000 saws manufactured Nope...I didn't get one Oh well..killed an hour anyways.
  6. Got up yesterday to the wonderful aroma of turkey cooking in the oven. Watched the thanksgiving day parade for a while Had about two hours before it was time to eat What to do The orders from the boss stated I couldn't do any cutting or make a mess today But it didn't say anyhing about taking the saw apart Grabbing some tools and reviewing the video by Rick Hutchenson I went for it. I didn't disassemble everything. I was curious to see the actual moving parts from the motor shaft to the link arms. Went about as described in the video. The case was a bit sticky coming off. Hung up a bit on the upper arm support pin. With a little jiggling I got it off. There's mention in the video about taking care that the upper arm doesn't slip off the support pin. Well it did Luckily I had a hold of it and was able to put it back in position before it fell off completely I checked all the internals to make sure everything was tight and there were no missing parts (parts blowup came in handy). Satisfied I reassembled the saw. After tightening everything back up I turned it on. It ran like a charm Overall took me about an hour. When I rechecked my blade alignment I found that along with my blade being square to the table my table was now level. Don't ask me what I did I have no clue I really had no reason to take the saw apart...Just boredom and curiousity.
  7. We have faith...One step at a time
  8. Thanks...I'm down to the wire with what stock I have available to cut. With the holidays coming I won't be restocking for a while As long as I'm cutting I'm happy.
  9. That will work
  10. First I've heard of them...Looked it up and they're made in Canada. Sorry can't help ya.
  11. Came out great! That would make a nice ring holder.
  12. I thought I would experiment with my Dewalt. Normally I would cut bb ply with a FD-PSR5 (18 tpi) blade and set my speed to #2. Instead I used a FD-SR5 (13 tpi) and set the speed to #6. I picked a couple of patterns from Sue (Shadylady) to try out. I was expecting to make a mess. Suprisingly even with the coarser blade and higher speed I still had excellent control. I did have one mishap when cutting the mountain detail on the eagle pattern. I didn't apply enough downward pressure on the wood when cutting the finer detail. The chatter/lift from the reverse blade snapped off a piece. The overall sizes are 4"H X 3" W. [attachment=0]arrow cut.jpg[/attachment]
  13. If your gonna do large pieces It can be removed. No matter what contraption Is on it I always double check with my square. This will get me close enough so that I won't have to contort to see the bevel gauge.
  14. Hi JJammo1: No biggie..There was no mention of blade alignment in my Dewalt manual. Tells you how to insert a blade and drill holes for fretwork. Unless you're familiar with these procedures then you think that the saw is ready to go. Thinking back, my Hitachi CW40 manual did briefly mention blade alignment in the manual. I guess some (companies) do and some don't. Would save a lot of aggravation for the new scrollers getting their first saw.
  15. Bird House...4"H X 3"W X 2.5"Sides
  16. Thanks...There was no original pattern. I just used a pencil and a ruler to make the pattern up based on a picture I had from a magazine.
  17. Super Cut Definitely some hours in that piece.
  18. Excellent cut, great detail. That would look good on the table all year long!
  19. Thanks...Trying to make things for the house. The wife wants a paper towel rack with a "wine and grapes" theme now.
  20. Great job. They all show diversity in your art. You should do well.
  21. That's cool Can't let my wife see that Are the reindeer compound cuts?
  22. Thanks...As stated by Plato "Necessity, who is the mother of invention." If I think about it long enough, I'll come up with something.
  23. Recently read an interesting post about a person having problems cutting puzzles. I thought it would be some good information especially for the new scrollers out there. Evidently while attempting to cut a puzzle this person noticed that the lower portion of the pieces were coming out wider than the top. This caused problems removing and replacing the puzzle pieces. Asking for some help, this person stated that the table was level and they couldn't understand why the pieces were off? I think that this is a common misconception with a lot of new scrollers. It's not the table being level as the blade must be square (90 degrees) to the table. Although you can have both with some adjustments to both the blade set screws in the blade holders and the table itself. A majority of times when making these adjustments you will end up with your blade square to the table but your table itself will be slightly off level. The important part is that your blade is square to the table. This will ensure your puzzle pieces or other flat cuts will slide in and out from either the top or bottom. In the attached picture you can see that the blade is square to the table but the table itself is slightly off level. [attachment=0]blade square 1.jpg[/attachment]
  24. I think I'm up to four pieces cut with the new Dewalt so far. I had one small mishap where the rubber stick on pad under the bevel arm tore and jammed up the table. No problem...Take the table off and remove the damaged pad. After seeing (If I remember) Kevin's cat tp holder I thought I would try one. I tried to make the cat resemble mine. Oops..Didn't come out that great. It looks more like a "Tazmanian Devil." Luckily the cat can't talk. Although she did go into the bathroom while I was mounting it, looked at it, then went to the litter box and got rid of some excess weight Probably a accurate comment of what she thought about my artistic abilities bird 1.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]bird 2.jpg[/attachment]
  25. I find with the new Dewalt I have to back up away from the saw and bend over to see the gauge to change the table settings. Then to return the table to zero I have to do the same thing. Thinking about this I had a brain storm. I needed something simple where I could just glance at the rear of the table to set my table to zero without the other steps. So...I came up with this. It's still in the "mock up" stage. I'm working on a way to attach it and still be able to remove it if neccessary. It will be either magnetic strips or double sided tape. My main concern is just being able to easily zero the table. I don't do a lot of bevel cutting at this point. I can add markings on the gauge in the future for the most common settings like 3 degrees, 5 degrees, 10 degrees, etc. It's basically some 1/2" oak for the gauge and a piece of 3/8" yellowheart for the indicator. I cut and trimmed an old blade as a pointer. [attachment=0]bevel zero.jpg[/attachment]
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