JTTHECLOCKMAN

Well Joe I could have expanded my response but sometimes I get long winded. people have a tendency to skip over the post then. being you brought it up I will expand here. You mention BLO. This is another way to go being you want to control your own shine. BLO is half the price of Danish oil and does the same thing with sealing the wood and being an oil will also warm the wood color. But has no sheen because no poly is in the mixture. This is what people use if they are going to work toward a sheen higher than you get with Danish oil. Danish oil sheen is so subtle. It is below a satin gloss. So something else to think of. Again Lacquer or poly can be top coated over BLO. As I mentioned I used Danish oil all the time. I loved the subtle shine I got with it. I sanded to 220 grit which made a huge difference because it closed pores as I said. I use a ton of red oak but have also used mahagony and maple but being a softer woods they would have needed extra help in the sheen depart if I wanted to have that soft warm glow. Danish oil is used because it can save steps and finishing materials, but again does not have a high sheen. The poly in the mix is too small. You can add more in your mix and may work better for you but off the shelf stuff you will not get a high shine. I said I used wax to help the shine somewhat. But I did not like high shines on my scrollsawn projects because you can not get the same shine inside fret work as you can on the top layer. Never happen. So again this was my reasoning. Now if you you want to control sheen inside fret work then I suggest spraying and not dipping or wiping on. Now take all this stuff I wrote as my opinion. But will say I have finished many of projects with all kinds of woods from domestic to exotic which is a whole other story. Good luck.

Joe I was and still am a huge user of Danish oils over the years. That basically was the finish of my choice. It has gotten very expensive over the years as well as most finishes. But a little goes a long way. Now over the years I found a few things that may help make decision for you. First you will never get a high gloss finish from Danish oil alone, no matter how many coats you put on. So you have to make decisions as to what look you are after. Making your own seems to be cheaper than already mixed stuff but it really is not. Plus the mixture is never equal parts and driers are used also. Now this is not to say you can mix up a product that works well for yourself and you like it. By all means go for it. You can control the sheen by adding more or less poly when mixing your own too. But with that said. A few things come into play many times when doing any wood finishing. The type of wood plays a huge roll. The open grainess (if that is a word) is huge because that is what allows finishes to be absorbed and how much. Along with that the sanding procedure you use such as the final grit of sandpaper plays a part in that you seal and close the grain pores more with the higher grits you use and this allows so much more product to be absorbed or less absorbed. Danish oil as well as all oil products will change color of woods or enhance the grain look because they are a yellow tint. This adds a nice warm look and feel to the wood as it also seals the wood fibers. Now to your question. No to dipping or wiping more than one coat. You are correct when you said one coats seals the wood. Yes it does. Now what Kevin experienced and what you see when doing additional coats is building up of the materials used in the finish such as stains, poly or tung oils. This can cause pooling and leave unsightly shiny spots and uneven sheen. So you can enhance the sheen with poly or lacquer. Danish oil can be top coated with either because the amount of poly used in mixture is so small it basically is locking the grain and that is all. So I suggest use one or the other if you want to enhance sheen properties. Satin, semi gloss or gloss all can be used. Or you can continue doing what you do with using more coats of Danish oil but seems an expensive way to build up sheen. Now what I use to do is dip my projects in Danish oil all the time and leave sit for about 5 minutes. Then I would pull them out and let them drip in a pan that catches runoff which I can always reuse. After that I wipe down with a clean lint free cloth and let air dry. Before I go to stack in a final resting place I make sure to wipe down once again to make sure there is no pooling. Many times woods like oak can bleed excess oils for quite some time after the final wiping so that needs to be watched. Now I always sand my projects to 220 grit. This closes the pores enough that one coat of Danish oil is all that is needed to give a nice soft sheen. But many times on certain projects I will polish them with Watco wood polish and this takes the sheen up a nice notch and really gives the wood a nice feel. Have been doing this for many years. Now I always did my dipping an finishing out doors because that stuff does leave an odor. It is also why I have to leave the projects sit for at least a week to dissipate that smell before I sell. But back then I had my methods and worked well for me. Everyone develops their own methods and discovers their own dos and don'ts. Good luck. PS. I guess it can not hurt to put the safety reminder about using finishes and storing and drying of rags. They can self combust so dip in water or air dry out doors. Store finishes safely. Do not do finishing work in closed in basements with gas fired appliances. The vapors are just as dangerous as the products themselves. Build up of vapors can be ignited. Work safe and use your head.

Take some emery cloth and form it so you can fit in brush hole and spin the motor by hand. You should see nice copper color when done. Use a fine grit. Do not use sandpaper. Just a quick pass or two is all that is needed. They do make commutator stones for cleaning and setting brushes too. May have to cut to fit the hole. Also a quick pass or 2 on the brush to take the glaze off it. When installing brushes make sure you mark the brush the exact way you took it out and put back the same way. Also make sure the spring has enough tension to keep brush riding on commutator.

Over the years I made these photo stands and they did well. It was a Rick Longabough pattern. But any sort of photo ornament or stand would work nice.

As someone mentioned, trends are only good for one show at a time and any show things can be totally different as to what sells. My theory always was to try to make everyday things that are not season oriented and can be displayed year round and still blend in. Also I found clocks of all types to be useful but that trend sort of slipped away when digital came out. heck people can not even write script any more and telling time with use of no numbers is a problem too. I liked gearing items to occupations and sports or religious aspects. Also military projects can zero in on specific groups. Some times the location of the show plays a roll such as if doing a church show, school show, military base show and so forth. But doing open ended shows then anything goes. I believe those animal puzzles still hold value because they can be done easily, sold for cheaper money and kids love them as well as pet owners. Doing personalized items do not do well because it is personalized. You can pick up one or 2 sales but you will have to do orders or use some sort of device to customize right there. I tried that and got burned a couple times and stopped all together. It has to be a very special person if I am going to add names. I think using people's initials is not personalizing. (just my opinion) Others do not know who that is unless a family member looks at it. Ornaments always work well and doing themes can enhance the effects.

Most battery nailers can be finicky because they rely on different aspects of the gun other than air. But to state the obvious, make sure you use the max pressure when shooting in hardwoods especially when they are on the bottom. Most pressure applied to nail is when it comes out of the gun and loses some force the longer the hammer travels. Next make sure you set the depth setting on the side of the gun to whatever you chose. Experiment what is best. next use the proper size nails and use a good quality nail. 18ga is not a very strong nail so it will bend easier and the longer it has to travel into hard wood the tougher it will be. Make sure the gun operates freely. I suggest do not use the bump function and just shoot one nail at a time. It takes some time for battery guns to reset and the weaker the battery the longer it takes. Make sure you use a good full charged battery. Now this same thing can happen even with air power because of grain direction of woods. Soft wood may go one direction and then change when it hits hard woods so it can deflect. Make sure you hold gun firm to wood and straight in or straight down. But as a safety always be aware of misfires, bent nails and rebound nails. Butternut is not a very hard wood. That is considered a medium hard wood and you really should not be having a problem. Now it was mentioned about a pin nailer. Alot depends on what you are nailing into plus what length needed. Battery operated pin nailers are for small jobs that just need some tacking.

If it means that much in your performance than just take a block of wood that is flat and wrap some sandpaper designed for metal around it and have at it. That is the black sandpaper. And I would use some water or lemon oil to sand to lubricate it. If you want an orbital sander will help too. Then a coat of wood paste wax. Or you can make a auxiliary top from acrylic or BB plywood.

2 or 3 times I have read how aggressive Dewalt saws cut. This stem way back to when they were first made and I have show how that can be corrected to a more straighter up and down motion. There is also videos out there showing how to correct this. I know Rick mentions this on his site years ago. But it all comes down to raising the back of the table some to even out that motion and yes it works.

Makes no difference weather you use a standard machine bit, brad point bit or forstner bit. The backer board needs to be tight against the top piece so that when the bit exit the top piece it does not lift up the top piece. It needs to stay flat. I see no need to predrill smaller holes. How that is done depends alot on how big the project is. Some times you can get away with brad nailing the 2 together. Sometimes clamps work.

That is a huge difference in space required so that is something to think about. The difference in type of saws is huge also. As mentioned the Pegas is closest to what you worked with. Cost is a factor and then being able to get repaired and parts. Hegner is a tank and they are an industrial type saw.

So it is ornaments you want to display. Are they all different? How many are we talking about? I ask these questions not to be a smart ass but to get an idea what you are after. You evidently came up with something that sounds like it will work. There are a ton of ways to hang ornaments but many times the type of ornament dictates the hanging methods. Are they flat, are they 3D, are they all the same size, are there multiples of each, are these sold in boxes ( if so you may want to display with the box) and so on. Google is your friend. Pintrest is a good place to start looking for examples. Here is a link to one page. Good luck. One other thing that needs to be taken in consideration is are these available to customers to touch or are you only one able to access. Again makes a difference in type hanger. Your question is not that easily answered without questions. https://fr.pinterest.com/pin/10273905394303243/

Alot depends on the type projects you are talking about and if they have wall hooks and what type. What type wall are you talking about? Is this something you built to do shows with. is it peg board or plywood or wire. Give us an idea what you want. If you are talking ornaments then that is a whole different setup. So need more info to be of help. If you are talking portraits or things like that you still can use shelving and do rows. Show us what you do now and what you want to hang. Many ways to display projects. How much room and wall space are you talking about.

What makes you suspect there is a problem with the saw? Those testers are unreliable. If you touch both ends of the tester it lights up also correct? Did you try the tester on other tools? If you are feeling a tingle when using the saw, I highly suggest you stop using it and find out why. It is going to take some testing but with a better tester (meter style) in my opinion. You get lots of false positives with those type testers. I am sorry I can not help you any more.

This topic went all over the place. The engineer is correct. Never put another VS devise on a machine that has a control board that controls speeds. That is why you can not use a sewing machine foot pedal on a VS saw. I said this so many times here. Not sure about what saw we are talking about failing but an AC motor will hardly ever fail . Winding do not just go bad. Now a DC motor is different because you have brushes involved and a commutator. That can wear as well as the brushes. Now bearings on either type motor can cause problems that mimic a bad controller.

I would suggest you start at the outlet you are plugged into. The tester linked above is a good starting point. You can have a floating ground. The ground wire at the machine can be well secured and all looks good but you have either a loose ground wire at the outlet or if spliced a bad splice in the box. Or the chord has a bad ground. The tester will test the outlet for you. Money well spent. If that is good you need to see if the ground wire from the male plug end has continuity to the ground wire in the machine. This is done with another type tester that can measure continuity. You would also need to move the chord around some to see if the wire is broken somewhere along the entire wire. Many times a chord gets pulled out of a outlet by the chord alone and this puts stress at the male plug end. Simple continuity tester from a good company. Sorry I could not follow your terminology so excuse if you mentioned you did this already. Disconnect the foot switch and run the saw without it and do that test. If still the same then follow what I mentioned above. If goes away then problem is within that foot switch. Lets check this stuff out first but you could also be looking at static electricity and those type tester can see this. But again should lead to a ground problem. https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Sperry-Continuity-Tester-CT6101/300348421?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-2024&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-2024-21871116195-178489370548-&gclid=fec940dca26c17d35a1428f5f64a6f0c&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=fec940dca26c17d35a1428f5f64a6f0c I blew up your photo and a little confused with your set up. Wish I could see the back of that saw where the wires are going. What type of foot switch is that? That is not a sewing machine foot pedal is it? Is it a step to turn on dead man switch where you take foot off and saw stops or do you have to step on it to turn on and step on it again to turn off? The wire out of that foot pedal looks crushed. Could you explain this sentence a little more. I am not understanding what you mean. it gives electricity in 2 modes when the tray is running