JTTHECLOCKMAN

Again here is my take and the first thing is to remeasure the hole drilled and make sure it was 1-3/8" Next is look to see if it uses a rubber ring to hold it in and if so is it there. If the insert uses the plastic springs make sure they were not broken from foring into the first project or from taking out of the first project. To fix. If it has a rubber ring and it is not there you can order them seperately or if you have one from another insert you are not using. Or you can just use a rubber band and that will work also. If it has the plastic clips and they are stretched you can put some piece of cardboard behind them to bring them back out or some other material. Would like to see a reply from you as to what is happening.

Steve, I have a bunch of the small baby food jars that I was doing this in. It really was no ratio thing. I would just pour some powder and add the alcohol. The thing I noticed that no matter how much color or alcohol you add the color is what the color is and no more is absorbed. In other words you can not make the color lighter or darker. Then all the crystals remain on the bottom of the jar and can not be reused. The crystals do not dissolve in the alcohol.

As mentioned above those mini inserts use a rubber ring to hold them in place. If you do not have this it will fall out of the hole. Now what can also happen with those things is that you will see there are small extenders for a lack of a better term all around that ring in groups of 3. There is a proper way to face the ring around the insert so that it makes it easier to install in the hole and if not done correctly you can break these off and it now loosen the insert and will not grab correctly. Maybe something to look at.

I have colored wood before using Rit dyes and they are powder. I mixed in alcohol so no grain raising and they penetrate deeply. Then top coat to keep looking new. Never on puzzles as I mentioned i do not do puzzles.

I would not of guessed this. I do not do puzzles so I defer to the experts here.

If you are making puzzles than plywood is the way to go. It is way more stable. Solid wood does move with moisture and it is just the nature of it. Use some fancy plywoods can work well as too BB which can be colored various ways. Finnish plywood is also very nice wood.

That is an average price for walnut. Not sure what you comparison is. Ever buy walnut plywood??? Can not compare solid boards to plywood for many reasons. Try buying Hondorous Mahagony then get back to me when you are done crying.

To me when that phrase is used it tells me it is time to start working on NEW projects for next year. Out with the old and in with the new. Every year I like to add something new to the line and probably phase some old things out. i have a basement shop so I am able to work through the winter months with no problem and this is when I get most things done. Has been a few years since I was able to be in the shop and I have a lot of catching up to do. As far as doing a complete clean up, that has not happened in many years. I do try to keep it somewhat manageable or else I would not find everything. Plus makes for tougher place to walk.

All very nice work. Hard to pick a favorite but the multi-layered cross is beautiful. Nice job with all and thanks for showing.

We really do not know what grade people are talking about. Plywood as well as all board lumber is graded. Within those grades is all the fill. what woods were used to infill the plywood. Top quality grade plywood is going to cost in any species. The origination of the plywood will also have an effect on price. I am not a fan of buying any lumber sight unseen. Sometimes you are forced to but you use it as a learning experience too.

right

I do not have the saw and never will but hopefully someday I may test drive one. To me and I am a bottom feeder and love it, it looks like a well built saw for a bottom feeder. The clamps on the bottom is similar to those on the RBI. Just that the RBI is an easier system to load because the tool is built into the arm of the saw and not some awkward position off to the side. That would be my fault i see with it. The arm stays up so that is not a problem. Not sure how heavy that is with all that stuff on there. I know the Dewalt has some heft to it. Just another player in the field. I am sure they will do well once they settle in on a price range. I believe they are still feeling that one out. I do not think you could go wrong with it knowing what it is going into it.

I too am on the list of vinyl record cutting next year. That should be fun because it is a new medium for me.

That sounds too cheap. Around by me it is around $50. There are different grades and they do come from different countries. Need to look at it. Good luck.

OK lets start a new topic. How many of you scroll plexiglass as a project in place of wood or even as accent pieces??? I am sure many have done it with ornaments. Lets see the projects. Also there was a person and now my memory is not what it use to be but scrolled plexiglass and frosted it somehow and I think they just sanded it but it looked sharp. Does anyone know who that was?? have some new ideas that maybe nice to try this coming winter. So lets fill this thread up with examples. Also while we are at it lets give the blade we use and also any tricks or tips to do this. If anyone has any particular patterns they want to share using this technique lets see them and please share. Thanks for the input.

What exactly are we looking at?? They look pretty cool.

I cut a quarter in half lengthwise using a 2/0 jewelers blade. Does that count.

I remember when I use to save bags and bags of that stuff and tried selling to people who had fireplaces but no one wanted it. I now just throw in the trash. Seems like a shame to do but it does add up quickly if doing many projects over a year. Not only scrolling but turning and other woodworking projects. Have to say sometimes my mind works in weird ways but seeing all your blades gives me an idea and now I have to start saving my old blades. Go figure.

Wow Dan, you are going back a few years there. Nice tree and great idea. I got sick and then family issues came up 3 years ago and I just got back to my shop this past summer. I was glad I found this site once again because it is probably the most active and i too remember members here.

Nice cutting Sam. What I suggest is if you have a piece of scrap left over do a little experimenting. Now with the board you used there is a variation in color in it which you will not even out so do not try. my opinion from what you have to work with I would first sand the project down with 220 grit paper ( I always sand to 220) Then blow the dust out of all the grain if there is any buildup of fine saw dust in the fret work make sure that is cleaned out (I use an exacto knife to do this at times) or else that will look dried out when finished. Many times the blade used to cut a piece out will determine the look of the fret cuts. Use a courser blade and the cuts have more open grain as opposed to using a finer blade where it closes the grain pores. Just like sandpaper will do. This determines the absorption amount when finishing. I then would use the Dark walnut Danish oil because you chose walnut as the wood and it normally is a dark wood to begin with. With the light colored variations in the board it will deepen the tone more. Again it would help to experiment on some scrap before you commit. I would definetly use Danish oil no matter which one. The other choices will darken the wood somewhat but will dry out quickly and the board will look unfinished. Again if dipping make sure to let drain ( I always lay on the flat so it drain out of the fret work. If you hang it it will collect in the bottom of the fret work). Wipe down and let dry for a at least 3 to 4 days before deciding if you want to top coat it. If you ever see any pooling in any of the fret work that does not look good you can always clean out with mineral spirits or acetone. If the wood was a darker walnut I would have suggested to use the natural. I would show examples but the walnut I use is darker so it does not help you. Remember experiment before committing. These are my thoughts. Good luck and post when done.

Sam it will work if you only dip once. I have done it many times before. Just for your information, Danish oil is just a much of a concern as BLO. Danish oil is blo, poly, mineral spirits and some driers mixed together. Do not clump rags in a pile. treat them and all oil products with concern. If you are looking for a matte, satin look then just do the Danish oil. If you want you can always add a wax finish. I use Watco satin polish on my projects all the time. I am not sure how I can show you the shine you can get but here is a magazine rack that was dipped in med walnut. Here is one in natural All my shelves and mirrors are done this way. I only use lacquer on certain projects such as these watches.

I use one also.

Sam if you are going to top coat with lacquer I suggest you dip in BLO and not Danish oil. Remember Danish oil has polurethane in it and poly and lacquer do not play well together. You will get the same look with blo but no gloss at all. If you are going to use the Dark walnut Danish oil then only dip once and wipe dry. I would also wipe the surface of the project with acetone with a cotton free cloth to get the poly off the surface. Do not worry about the fret cuts.

Bruce, should look good when done. When you cut the pieces how did you sand them to get flat??? If the plywood is flat it has a good chance of holding the cherry flat. Make sure when you glue it to weight it down so that the cherry flattens out. Scrolling the letters out will also take some of the stress out of the board too. Seems a bit odd though that you use 3/8 for the finish piece and use such a heavy piece for the backer unless you are going for a certain look.

Sam I use Watco Danish oil on all my projects. I sometimes will top coat with a water based lacquer. I never use Polyurethane. Make it to plastic looking for me. Have to say each species of wood will take the oil differently and also how thick the piece is. As far as dipping time goes I have no set time but will leave in for at least 15 minutes. Some woods such as some oak boards will look dried out even after they were dipped. This may take 2 dippings then. I have a big container and after dipping I set the piece on the lid of the container so it drips most of the excess. After that I set on some boards or junk plywood as it continues to drip. Then I take the piece and wipe it down. I will tap the piece softly on a hard surface to get the excess out of the cut outs. Then wipe again and set it aside. i do all this outside in the nice weather. I do not dip in the winter unless I totally have to and then it is just one piece. I save all my dipping for one or 2 days. I make sure I set the pieces up in the shade or else the sun will surface dry it and you can get blotchy shiny parts. To me there is no better finish than a Danish oil. Gives a nice warm glow to the piece. If you are going to top coat make sure the piece is cured. Not just dry to the touch but cured which can take 4 or 5 days at least.