JTTHECLOCKMAN

I do not have the saw and never will but hopefully someday I may test drive one. To me and I am a bottom feeder and love it, it looks like a well built saw for a bottom feeder. The clamps on the bottom is similar to those on the RBI. Just that the RBI is an easier system to load because the tool is built into the arm of the saw and not some awkward position off to the side. That would be my fault i see with it. The arm stays up so that is not a problem. Not sure how heavy that is with all that stuff on there. I know the Dewalt has some heft to it. Just another player in the field. I am sure they will do well once they settle in on a price range. I believe they are still feeling that one out. I do not think you could go wrong with it knowing what it is going into it.

I too am on the list of vinyl record cutting next year. That should be fun because it is a new medium for me.

That sounds too cheap. Around by me it is around $50. There are different grades and they do come from different countries. Need to look at it. Good luck.

OK lets start a new topic. How many of you scroll plexiglass as a project in place of wood or even as accent pieces??? I am sure many have done it with ornaments. Lets see the projects. Also there was a person and now my memory is not what it use to be but scrolled plexiglass and frosted it somehow and I think they just sanded it but it looked sharp. Does anyone know who that was?? have some new ideas that maybe nice to try this coming winter. So lets fill this thread up with examples. Also while we are at it lets give the blade we use and also any tricks or tips to do this. If anyone has any particular patterns they want to share using this technique lets see them and please share. Thanks for the input.

What exactly are we looking at?? They look pretty cool.

I cut a quarter in half lengthwise using a 2/0 jewelers blade. Does that count.

I remember when I use to save bags and bags of that stuff and tried selling to people who had fireplaces but no one wanted it. I now just throw in the trash. Seems like a shame to do but it does add up quickly if doing many projects over a year. Not only scrolling but turning and other woodworking projects. Have to say sometimes my mind works in weird ways but seeing all your blades gives me an idea and now I have to start saving my old blades. Go figure.

Wow Dan, you are going back a few years there. Nice tree and great idea. I got sick and then family issues came up 3 years ago and I just got back to my shop this past summer. I was glad I found this site once again because it is probably the most active and i too remember members here.

Nice cutting Sam. What I suggest is if you have a piece of scrap left over do a little experimenting. Now with the board you used there is a variation in color in it which you will not even out so do not try. my opinion from what you have to work with I would first sand the project down with 220 grit paper ( I always sand to 220) Then blow the dust out of all the grain if there is any buildup of fine saw dust in the fret work make sure that is cleaned out (I use an exacto knife to do this at times) or else that will look dried out when finished. Many times the blade used to cut a piece out will determine the look of the fret cuts. Use a courser blade and the cuts have more open grain as opposed to using a finer blade where it closes the grain pores. Just like sandpaper will do. This determines the absorption amount when finishing. I then would use the Dark walnut Danish oil because you chose walnut as the wood and it normally is a dark wood to begin with. With the light colored variations in the board it will deepen the tone more. Again it would help to experiment on some scrap before you commit. I would definetly use Danish oil no matter which one. The other choices will darken the wood somewhat but will dry out quickly and the board will look unfinished. Again if dipping make sure to let drain ( I always lay on the flat so it drain out of the fret work. If you hang it it will collect in the bottom of the fret work). Wipe down and let dry for a at least 3 to 4 days before deciding if you want to top coat it. If you ever see any pooling in any of the fret work that does not look good you can always clean out with mineral spirits or acetone. If the wood was a darker walnut I would have suggested to use the natural. I would show examples but the walnut I use is darker so it does not help you. Remember experiment before committing. These are my thoughts. Good luck and post when done.

Sam it will work if you only dip once. I have done it many times before. Just for your information, Danish oil is just a much of a concern as BLO. Danish oil is blo, poly, mineral spirits and some driers mixed together. Do not clump rags in a pile. treat them and all oil products with concern. If you are looking for a matte, satin look then just do the Danish oil. If you want you can always add a wax finish. I use Watco satin polish on my projects all the time. I am not sure how I can show you the shine you can get but here is a magazine rack that was dipped in med walnut. Here is one in natural All my shelves and mirrors are done this way. I only use lacquer on certain projects such as these watches.

I use one also.

Sam if you are going to top coat with lacquer I suggest you dip in BLO and not Danish oil. Remember Danish oil has polurethane in it and poly and lacquer do not play well together. You will get the same look with blo but no gloss at all. If you are going to use the Dark walnut Danish oil then only dip once and wipe dry. I would also wipe the surface of the project with acetone with a cotton free cloth to get the poly off the surface. Do not worry about the fret cuts.

Bruce, should look good when done. When you cut the pieces how did you sand them to get flat??? If the plywood is flat it has a good chance of holding the cherry flat. Make sure when you glue it to weight it down so that the cherry flattens out. Scrolling the letters out will also take some of the stress out of the board too. Seems a bit odd though that you use 3/8 for the finish piece and use such a heavy piece for the backer unless you are going for a certain look.

Sam I use Watco Danish oil on all my projects. I sometimes will top coat with a water based lacquer. I never use Polyurethane. Make it to plastic looking for me. Have to say each species of wood will take the oil differently and also how thick the piece is. As far as dipping time goes I have no set time but will leave in for at least 15 minutes. Some woods such as some oak boards will look dried out even after they were dipped. This may take 2 dippings then. I have a big container and after dipping I set the piece on the lid of the container so it drips most of the excess. After that I set on some boards or junk plywood as it continues to drip. Then I take the piece and wipe it down. I will tap the piece softly on a hard surface to get the excess out of the cut outs. Then wipe again and set it aside. i do all this outside in the nice weather. I do not dip in the winter unless I totally have to and then it is just one piece. I save all my dipping for one or 2 days. I make sure I set the pieces up in the shade or else the sun will surface dry it and you can get blotchy shiny parts. To me there is no better finish than a Danish oil. Gives a nice warm glow to the piece. If you are going to top coat make sure the piece is cured. Not just dry to the touch but cured which can take 4 or 5 days at least.

No because it is a matter of what saw is being used. The travel of the blade is different on all saws. Put an auxilary table top and it changes things even more. All you need is a couple teeth to knock the fuzzies off. You are not cutting with those teeth. If you want to cut with both up and down stroke then use a combination blade.

Most people choose to sit because it is less tiresome and lets you scroll longer. There is no set rules for height. What feels comfortable. But in turning and also scrolling the basic rule that most follow is to have the arms bent at a 90 degree angle and that is a good height. Now if you build to stand then this will change when sitting but you can adjust the height of a chair. The saw with the back higher than the front is just a comfort thing. Dewalt usually does that with their stands. Makes for seeing a little better. We all fall into our own patterns after a while because some people have bad backs or bad eyesight and other factors so each is different. Good luck.

Did you try hobby lobby or AC Moore??? If they do not have it then here is the best place on the net that I know of. They have all kinds of felt. The stiff sheets are on the second page www.darice.com/store/browse/catalog/wholesale-basics-felt-sheets

What beginners think they have to do is keep cutting when making a 90 degree turn or greater and that is the last thing you want to do. You want to stop your cutting and put slight pressure on the back of the blade and then pivot. If that does not feel right for you and there is room then make another slice right along side the first cut thus making a wider opening to make the turn. It does take a little practice but is done very easily. I scroll 3/4" oak all the time and use a #5 blade and have no problem.

Good to see you disabled the VS of that foot switch. never use a VS foot switch in conjunction with the VS of the motor on your saw. You will burn it up(motor) I too use the momentary switch and is alot more convenient than turning a switch on and off on the saw in my opinion. I also sit at my saw and happen to use a bar stool. Gives me the right height. What I have done is used a board and stuck it through the rungs and it acts as a platform where I place the switch and it makes it comfortable. Just like sitting at a bar at least I am told

I will ditto exactly what Dan just said.

In the air. any time you blow dust no matter what device you are using, unless you have a vac hooked up then it gets blown in the air. It is of course better if it blows away from you but wearing a dust mask is still a good idea.

We use to have a Woodcraft and a couple other tool stores where they sold major tools and supplies but they could not survive here and got swallowed up by the big box stores and the internet. I miss those stores because we could always go in and play with the toys. The location for putting the blade in the lower clamp could have been better worked out. With the Rbi it is right in the arm and makes it very convenient. That saw you have to get up and do it or if you have a chair with wheels, roll over to it. It does look like a solid saw though.

Maybe it was not tauted as a clone but it sure does look like one. has many of the EX and Dewalt features and they both copied that front arm blade cutting motion. I did watch a couple of the videos on the net now about that saw and it looks well made. It maybe a bottom feeder but with the arm being lifted as high as you can there is no need for bending over to see the holes so I would not say that is not that bad of thing. Looks like a nice saw. If the EX does not make a come back this maybe the saw to replace it. I will stick with my RBI but it is another player out there. Hope to one day take for a test spin if someone has one that I run into.

We see the nut but can we see where it attaches and maybe we can come up with an alternative all together. Just wanting to help.

I have yet to see this saw up close but what makes you say this is strickly a bottom feeder. I thought it was a clone of the Ex and Dewalt??? May have to take a look at the specs of the saw. Unfortunately we do not have tool stores here any more. They close so fast because of the internet these days.