JTTHECLOCKMAN

Rolf if you are doing demos any saw on the market can do that. Pick any of the $200 16" saws out there. RBI did make a 16" saw years ago and was not popular. People want bigger and 20" is a good starting point. I do not know of too many projects that need a 30" saw and to me that is a specialty saw. I bought a Hawk 26" saw because I make mirrors that are scrollsawn and I need the added room but can do it with 26" . There are ways to cut large objects on a smaller saw. If you have been scrolling for awhile you figure this out.

5 year warrenty as opposed to 3 year Dewalt. www.tool-rank.com/tool-blog/news/delta%27s-new-scroll-saw-is-dewalt%27s-old-scroll-saw-20100722735/

Rolf I understand what you are saying but stop and think what you are saying. You want the very same people that make those $1000 saws to now make the same saw for $200 as an entry level saw. Doesn't make sense. Those companies are not into that stuff. They make higher end saws with better tooling, bearings, motors, blade clamping for reason. They are competing against the China made clone saws that are pressed out of these factors using CNC machines and robots. They are made to fail so you buy another. The people that make the higher end saws are people that have done the leg work and were scrollers thay took ideas of what people are looking for. But you have to pay for that now. They do not make as many as the companies that produce those $200 saws. Those companies do not care what you think. They make a product that does what it is advertised to do but nothing about how well it has to do it. Sears is a good example or even the Black and decker line. They make the hobbiest line of tools and then make the serious professional line. That is what the saws are. Hobbiests and then there are the serious line of saws. Can not have both but the mid priced saws try to do this and for the most part they accomplish this. As said you get what you pay for. People that say they use a $200 Ryobi saw for X amount of years and had no problems tells me they are not serious scrollers and you can say what you want it is just not possible. Have been doing this far too long. If you hit the lottery and make those $200 saws that are as good in quality as an RBI or Hegner, you will be the talk of the town but it will be your money that you would be putting into that adventure and not other companies. Good luck please let us know when that saw hits the market place. Many people will test drive it for you.

That is what quick blade changing is. The Delta is a Dewalt. Same company different color.

Now a rant like this or a question like this has to make you think if they made a scrollsaw that cheap then they would not need the $1000 saw. Those high price saws are higher because of certain things and how do you put that into a $200 saw. Years ago the go to saw on the market was the the 2 speed Dremel. I went to a woodworking show today and got a chance to play with the new Jet scrollsaw. You can keep it. Talk about just copying others and not doing research into what is needed for a good saw. The blade system sucks. The arm is so heavy to lift that all day long you would look like the hulk when done. Line the blade up in that top clamp sucks. I give that saw a 1 rating only because it was quiet. I will take my RBI any day of the week.

I just got back from a woodworking show this afternoon and they had some works on display from various medium such as turned bowls, scrollsawn pieces and one piece was a beautiful plaque laid out with a scrolled record and musical notes. It was very well done. This is on my to do list this year.

I will put it up against any saw on the market. Hands down and twice on Sunday. I own a 220VS an a 226VS over 20 years old

For your reading pleasure. Scrollers just like here. www.amazon.com/SCROLLNADO-collection-scroll-Dewalt-40-690/product-reviews/B01KCNI77C https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw/general-scroll-saw/845635-scrollnado www.stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=19741.0 scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2016/09/dust-extraction-system-for-dewalt-and.html

Scrollsawing is suppose to be relaxing and how anyone could have a shop vac running for hours on end is a little mind boggling to me. A good dust mask and clean up after each session is all I do. Motors on shop vacs are not continuous run motors so they will wear faster. But i suppose it is something that maybe necessary for some and it looks like it can work from the video I saw. Good luck if you are getting one to try.

My take on the box would be to do it in hardwoods because it would look classier but do an overlay of fret work with lettering of some sort in a different colored wood. Wedding are suppose to be classy events. Plywood is fine for some things but not a box of any kind in my opinion. Do 45 degree corners with some splines in accent colors. Dress it up. There are a ton of examples on Google.

I stopped those magazines a few years ago. I do not get anything out of them. As far as patterns I can go to various sites and hand pick. For beginners is probably is a good magazine but when you have been scrolling for so many years not much new can be taught. I stopped just about all my woodworking magazines because basically the tool tests they ran were all bias and basically all magazines did the same tests. The magazines got less and less content. I now have a ton of magazines I can not get rid of and just hate to throw them out.

Be very careful about those subscriptions. There have been many fakes and scams associated with magazines.

This question is easy to answer from the stand point of physical answers but emotional not so easy. There is without question a couple projects that stand alone for me. They are and always will be my most cherished pieces. My Dad passed away June 19, 2006. He was my mentor, my friend and my Dad. There are 4 kids and when he passed it was a hard time accept. After the funeral we got together to have a stone put on the grave but they will not set any stones for some time after to let the ground settle. Understood, so I got to thinking we would be without a marker on the grave for some time and everytime we would visit it did not look right. So I made a temporary cross to fill this vacancy till we were able to get a permanent marker made. There now was no rush to get this done because of my cross. We had the marker made for both my parents because my Mom was getting up in age also. My Dad loved my work and always complimented me on it. It was he who actually got me into woodworking when I was a small kid. I thank him for that every day. I made him a large Yankee watch because he had problems seeing clocks and loved the Yankees. That watch went with him to his final resting place. Then there is my Mom. She passed Jan 2 ,2016. It is just a little over 1 year now and the hurt still is as strong as it was then. She was my buddy and she always called me that right till her final days. For her I made this cross and it too went with her. She was my biggest fan of what I did. She went to all my craft shows when she was still able to. She loved talking to the people and she helped me in my sales. She could sell ice to an Eskimo. Oh how I missed those days but will always have those memories. I know my parents are now at peace and resting with the Lord. They were hard working people and gave us kids everything we needed at their sacrifice. They molded us into the people we are today and for that I am proud as I know they were just as proud. I thank them and miss them so much every day. I know this went a little different direction than the OP intended but it just hit me. Here are the projects I spoke of.

Well now if that is what the OP was talking about he has a longgggggggggggggggggggggggg way to go . Titles for the amount of posts is something I never did pay attention to. I jump in when I think I have something to add and not to pad my totals. I really never even noticed it here. when a person answers people from the same thread instead of using the multiple quote button is padding the count. Hope to see all members reach Master status. Means the site is doing well. Happy scrolling.

Once again. Danish oil IS BLO, mineral spirits, polurethane and some driers mixed in. BLO is just an oil and if you mix Mineral spirits with it you are thinning it that is all. You are not making it dry faster or any other thing. Danish oil takes longer to dry because of the poly mixed in. BLO will not dry but will be absorbed faster but both need to cure let alone dry before any top coating. Putting Danish oil on top of BLO will not change the color unless you use a darker shade of Danish oil. The same stuff. It may look darker because you now have a film finish on top as opposed to a oil that soaked in. Put any lacquer or poly on top of BLO and it too will look darker but it is the refraction of the finish. With either finish you are looking at a minimum of 24 hours and longer for Danish oil. These are my opinions. Nice puzzle and I bet they are good sellers. Good luck.

Well I guess anyone can call themselves what they want. But I think a criteria would be, have you been published or shown in art galleries. Have you won prestigious awards. Is your work looked upon by other artisans from other medium. Have you taken your talents and taught others. Have you produced your own work and not just using other's patterns and cutting on a line. Heck anyone can do that. Take the scrolling field and add your touch to it. Things of this nature would make you a master scroller. You served your time or apprenticeship and have gotten to the point your skills are at the utmost. I think it also includes many all around attributes in that can you convey your talents to others. Is your work recognizable. Just my thoughts. Now I will say I am very good at scrolling and have done it for over 30 years but do not consider myself a master because of the above ideas. I believe there are Master scrollers out there. People like some of your top pattern makers who also scroll and teach and write books like John Nelson.

The big name one that gets good reviews and is more versatile is this one. www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Oscillating-Edge-Belt-Spindle-Sander-EB4424/100061671?&cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25T+Power+Tools|&mid=ZlQ5WRNX|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcri

Nice cutting but just not a fan of painting any scrolled piece. To me it cheapens the look. But everyone is different and has different tastes. Enjoy and happy scrolling.

That plastic retaining clip is a piece that stretches with time but can be bought. I replaced mine with a piece of thin spring steel. I do not have the barrel clamps but it still uses the plastic retainer. That is correct if you did not have that if a blade broke the bottom clamp would fall off and probably get lost in the mounds of saw dust you will be making. Good luck they are a good reliable saw.

I say cut down on the design and make is less delicate. Save those type designs for wall plaques or desk signs. Less is more some times. Or make the design with all pieces touching and no floating edges. I have done many fret work designs in napkin holders but there were no floaters or unsupported edges. Still get the same effect. I just took another look at your design and there would be absolutely no reason any hardwood could not be used. 1/2" to 3/4" There are 2 free standing pieces that are well within the pattern that they would not be in danger. Good luck. I also believe natural woods are rich looking over painted objects. This is one reason I do not paint. I choose 3/4" for all my napkin holders.

Myself i do not mess with paints and colors because they get messed up with time. I always make things out of red oak and use a Danish oil as my finish. If I do colors it is with natural woods and their different accents.

I have bought many of my clock making parts from here over the years. They were always good to work with no matter what was wrong and when. I have not bought inserts much these days except for some special ones which I found are not being sold any more. I recomend these people. www.clockparts.ca

The clock industry has changed over the years. Many of the better brand clocks are no longer to be found. Variety is also limited. So depending on what type style and price range you are looking for it is tough to tell you. How large?? Are you talking clock motors or inserts??? Clock inserts come in 3 catagorys, good better and best or economy, standard, and premium. Here is a good past thread from here that may interest you. www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/21804-clock-inserts/?hl=%2Bclock+%2Binserts

I think Len just said it best. I know I would have charged 3 times that for each piece and see what the person had to say. I am long done with making things for give aways. That is for the beginners. When you have been doing it for awhile your skills have increased and so has your knowledge. Also you should have a basic idea of what your work is worth in YOUR area. Doing things for family is a different story so do not mix the 2. You start undercharging to friends and workers and you are in a tailspin because people will now start comparing and yes friends do talk.

I too go as high as 220 and on rare occassions I will take a piece to 600. The oil will always soak into wood no matter what grit you sand to. But what you are doing with higher grits is closing the pores of the wood so allowing the oil to penetrate will take longer and you will not get as a deep penetration. Sometimes this is an effect people use when staining. It is a way to control the depth of stain and the color. Finishing is a science in itself if you really break it down and look at it. Many things and many ways a simple finish can change the look of a piece.