JTTHECLOCKMAN

I use to get all my hinged box lids from them. It is ashame to learn they do not carry them any more. You will probably have a hard time finding again but if you do please post where. Thanks.

What is happening is the grain is lifting because woods such as oak has wide grain patterns. Woods like mahagony and maples do not. There is little support in thin pieces when cuts are so close together. The blade catches the grain on a turn and can rip into it. I do not slow the saw down I instead speed it up and go slower but also use a reverse tooth blade. The best method to avoid this is either switch to a tighter grained wood or use a backer board with a zero clearance blade hole and a reverse tooth blade. My opinion.

There should be 2 allen screws on the side of that top block. The bottom one is the blade holder and that one gets set to hold the blade with the thumb screw. The one on top is the one where the top of the blade hits the bottom of that screw. You can not put any more blade in if you hit that screw. That is why you set that back lever so that the blade sits in the same distance every time. If you have more blade showing than that you need to adjust that back lever. I ignore all those clock numbers and just tighten enough to have that bottom of that top screw even with the top of my blade when that arm is pushed down. If you put the blade in the bottom holder with it bottoming out this setup should be the same every time. To me this blade holding system is the easiest to use of all scrollsaws.

Never found a need for them. When scrolling if using the right blade your cuts should be smoothe

Kevin it is hard to explain in words sometimes but I will try. That nut on the bottom of that rod that sits under the bottom arm should not move or never move. It is a nylon insert in the nut to keep it from spinning off. The rod stays the same length. The adjustment is in the tension lever that controls that wedge shape device. You turn that to match the size of the blade. The top arm should be at a distance from the table so that when lowered the blade just gets pushed into the blade holder. The blade should just touch the top of the blade holder block and the back of the blade is against the pin. This should be automatic when set up right. Now the tension is set when the lever of the front tensioner is pushed. This now takes out the slack of the rod in the back. I basically always use #5 blades so I do not fuss with that back tension lever. If I happen to use a larger blade I will cut the tip of the blade so that it fits in the setup for the #5 blade and saw away. Now as I mentioned on that noise thread, sometimes that back lever works its way against the top arm and scrapes as it goes up and down and make a rattling noise. I just center the lever and keep an eye for it. I can tell that noise right away. I have also put a piece of rubber under that lever because some times it may slam against the arm as it comes down and that usually happens when I use larger blades because I did not reset that lever. If you set up the arm as I said you will not break blades because of too much tension. May break them for poor sawing techniques. Not sure if this makes sense or helps. Good luck. I love my 220 and 226

There is a labor of love. That looks great. All aspects came out really nice. Job well done and I am sure you are happy with that master piece. Thanks for showing.

If you do not know where the noise is coming from then it is impossible to help you. Will tell you this that sometimes the dust blower tube gets moved when changing blades and it will hit the clamp. Then at times the tension lever in the back will sometimes slide against the arm in the back and it will make a clunking noise when the saw goes up and down. Other than that I have had mine for 15 years+ and no noises that can not be fixed and they were what I explained. Love my RBI and would buy another. In my opinion best saw on the market.

I did and still do on the projects that are abit from norm. Maybe angles of cuts or size enlarged or reduced. Blades and things like that. I never did get into the photo of every project. Look back on it now I wish I had. Have made over 800 different projects in time. Kept a list because i number each project because I was selling in so many different stores and needed good account work for tax purposes. If you are making and giving away good for you but you are not a business and it means nothing to you. If you have some sort of business then some sort of records are needed.

I too started with white bed sheets but have gone to a light green. It brings out the wood better to me anyway. When doing shows the tables are not standard size or at least not at the ones I go to.

oak Love walking by a freshly cut down oak tree.

Did you ever consider spectraply blanks. I use the bottlestopper blanks. You could call the company and ask specifics. They are pricy but any colors are available. www.cwp-usa.com/collections/spectrabox/products/spectrabox-1?variant=40471025228

There is no such thing on the market that is odorless. Some products are less offensive but still carry an odor and that includes your wax concoction. Now all depends on what you call odorless and what time frame you are talking about. The color outcome is important also. If you want a warm tone then blo and then let dry for a day and top coat with a lacquer. Now you can get waterbased lacquers in any sheen. They have a less offensive smell. Polys will dry rather quickly and the smell is sealed. I am not a fan of shellac on scrolled projects. That is meant for large woodworking projects in my opinion. Good luck in your quest though.

Strips are walnut and the veneer top layer is white oak. Other layers within the plywood can be anything.

Is it possible to jostle, I guess maybe but highly doubt it. Some times I just do not get companies that try to pull this stuff. This is not a large company and any negative feedback will hurt them. They have to know this. So I ask where is quality control??? Did they not run and test the saw before it was shipped and if they knew of a problem would you not fix it before you continue to ship. Maybe they just hope the buyer will put up with the saw and order parts and fix on their own. You are doing the right thing. I know any saw or any product for that matter can have flaws and then you have to deal with the Lemon Law but it comes down to the company and how well they handle the situation that determines their feedback. Good luck.

Check craigs list in your area. Dewalt, RBI, Excaliber, Hegner, Delta, Jet, are some of the top names. Find something and check back with us.

Own one of the very first originals and it is one of the most used tools in my shop. I too did not know how much work I saved myself since I bought it. I use a shop vac with the standard 2" hose and works great. Have to empty the barrel a few times if doing lots of sanding but that is no big deal. Have replaced the drive belt twice so far and bypassed the switch that turns on and off because it burnt out. But other than that it is a work horse. I love mine.

I would never make a good teacher. I just drill and start cutting. Can not explain it because it comes so natural after you have been doing for so many years. I have no hard and fast rules I follow. Sometimes I cut on the fly or by the seat of my pants. No rhyme or reason to go from one point to the next and do the opposite on the next cut. But I am so confident in my cutting ability that no cut scares me. I have the ability to cut straight and true and follow a pattern line with exactness. This may sound like tooting of the horn because it is. But will say the most important thing I learned to get to this point is to relax and let the blade do the cutting. Do not tense up in tight situations or push so hard trying to cut faster. Does not work. Relax and let the mind tell you where to go and what to do. Let go of the work every once in awhile and let the blade straighten out or catch up to the cutting. This is the key to scrolling. Learn to put pressure in the right spot when spinning the piece, learn to listen to the sounds of the blade cutting and learn when it is time to change blades. Learn to use both hands in working a piece. Plan you cuts so that you do not back yourself into a corner. Do not get me wrong about suggestions like this for cutting directions which are great for beginners but also learn to become your own scroller and forget what others do. there are no right or wrong ways to scroll. find your own methods and tricks and speed at which is comfortable. Just my opinion and point of view.

And this is the world we became. What happen to the handshake as a sign of good faith??? It is too bad.

What would be the easiest way to transfer my photos from PhotoBucket to that site

I guess there is no more linking photos from my photo bucket account to this or any other site unless you pay some rediculous fee. From what was free for so long has now become another money grabber. What a shame. Any of the threads where i had done this in the past are now now gone.

As a general rule I will spin the wood counterclockwise but on complete circles or ovals I go the opposite. For me it makes a cleaner cut.

You did not say what saw it is you are talking about so that may help with the answer. But as a general rule all clamps must be able to move back and forth or pivot on any saw. If the bottom clamp is not moving with the push of the wood or the up and down motion of the saw then it will bend as you have shown. Your cuts will also be either undercut or maybe overcut on the top of the material. Make sure the clamps pivot as they are designed to do.

As above it is your comfort zone that will tell you what a good speed is. But with that said I will say a few things that will also be factors in determining speed. The thickness of the material, the density of the material, the type of material (plastics, metals, wood) the blade being used, and so forth. Just because you use a higher speed only means the saw is moving faster, but it is you doing the pushing and guiding that will determine how fast you are cutting. My point is you can use a med speed on the saw and cut resonably fast or use a higher speed on the saw but have to slow your feed rate down in order to control your cuts better. So this is why people are telling only you can answer your question. Good luck and happy sawing.

I would use a very thin blade and just cut the door out. You do not want it too tight anyway and any imperfections are matched with the cut. Want real thin blades use a small jewelers blade.(00 or even 000 )

Well Tony alot of info is left out here also. You do not mention who the vendors are and what exactly you are buying. To keep inventory updated can be tricky if you are relying on others and they are a reseller. I blame you also for not having the foresight not to stock up when the item is available if it is a big seller for you. As I said inventory is money tied up and some vendors can not operate such as a Penn State Industries who has unlimited cash flow. Vent all you want but will not change things and if you are disatisfied just stop using that vendor. God knows there are way too many pen supply vendors on the market these days anyway. Good luck.