JTTHECLOCKMAN

Can not get that link to open. Have another link or just place the name of the company and i will google. Thanks 1-7/16" inserts are not all the same. Sloans still sell Seiko inserts and they are some of the better ones. The ones I shown are not that size, they are a bit larger and I usually buy in 2 different sizes. I like to use 2" inserts also. Just a note on the 2-3/4" inserts and larger made in China. and also ones made in the USA. I have seen this many many times, the clocks are basically kits that are interchanged with different faces. You can many times unscrew the plastic bezel. I say this because I have had clocks come to me where the hands are not seated just right. They may touch the glass or bent too much and scrape the facing or too loose and skip time. The motors work fine but it is the hands that either stop it or fall off. Can easily be fixed by taking the top off. Have seen this on both USA and China models. That is why I suggest a trial period before installing. Here is the old thread that has some info in it www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/23097-large-clock-insert-fit-ups/

yes bought a sanding belt for my drum sander from them. No problems https://2sand.com/feed-belt-performax-16-32-drum-sander

Again not for me and would be too prohibitive in my opinion but if it works for someone then go for it.

Kevin I have bought some and have tried to buy others but they do not make the ones I want to buy any more. We had this discussion in that last thread I mentioned. You told me you bought USA inserts and they still were bad. I mentioned clockparts.com as a dealer but again you told me you tried them. I do not know how to repost that thread so I can not refer back to this same conversation. I use to buy many of my inserts from Wildwood Designs but they too have changed ownership and do not live up to their warrenties and I am not a fan of them any more. If you found a supplier that is offering better quality motors and better insert, I believe it would help us all if you tell us who it is. We can send more business their way. I am a huge account and am sure others can be too. I have actually bought inserts direct from China and have great success with them. Went through Alibaba. Use to buy these and many more from a UK distributer but shipping got too much. Buy them from China now. These are dead on accurate. Bought a ton of Skeleton clock motors from the UK vendor too. Bought many inserts from these people also and they use to make to order for me. But again shipping became outrages. www.clockparts.ca/index.php?cPath=7

I never use plywoods. I always use hardwoods of various species but mostly red oak. I have a full work shop with woodworking tools to dimension lumber and buy mine from local wood sources. If you buy on line the shipping can be more than the wood is worth. Maybe take a look for local dealers.

I probably have made more clocks than most of you here and have to say I have been doing this for over 25 years and have never had a clock insert come back to me even though I always tell my customers they can send them back to me and I will replace free of charge. I have a couple customers try to tell me that I sold them one and they bring it back and I can tell right away it was not one of mine. I may offer a free replacement if a return customer or offer a sale for a reasonable price. I have not bought many new inserts because I at one time bought so much bulk that I am still working off them. I do know that just about all vendors get their inserts from the same sources so all is a matter of price. There are some top of the line inserts but they are expensive and this all came up in that thread that I mentioned. What I would highly suggest you people do if you are selling clocks for shows and for profit, is to buy them and stock them and run them for length of time to test them. Yes you will go through more batteries but a small expense as opposed to the trouble of replacing. I have bought from many places and in another thread I mentioned that KLOCKIT and Wildwood Design have changed the clocks they sell and they are more hit and miss and are tougher to get replaced because of different ownership. Good luck. The idea of selling a clock without a motor or insert is not a good one in my opinion. People do not want to have to buy a clock insert that have no idea what size or what or where to get.

Over the many many years that a scroll saw has been on the market and all the different style saws there are there has never been to my knowledge a fence of any kind that was specific to a saw. The reason is a scroll saw is not meant to be a precision saw as much as a table saw or band saw is. Not to say that precision work can not be done but all cuts will have flaws in them no matter how good you are free hand cutting. Can a fence be made sure it can. Take a straight piece of aluminum and double side tape to it and stick it to your table to match the drift of your blade and there is your fence. Good luck with that though.

In the search box top right corner, type in where to buy clock inserts and you will see a past posting on this topic that maybe of help. Good luck. It would also be helpful if you note what type inserts you are looking for in size and style.

Amazing how times have changed. I still hold onto the patterns because you never know when this will take a walk backwards

Boy I remember back in the early 90's I use to make many of these and sell them very well. Then when the 2005 and later rolled around I think people did not even know what they were. How many of you remember what these are???

Thanks. I started my scrolling career with the likes of Rick and Karen from the Berry Basket days. Did sooooooo many of their patterns and expanded on them as well as this happens to be one. Made many different mirrors over the years. The heart mirror was huge seller.

I have hot melt glued some scrap blocks to pieces if I need to spin a round piece alot. Just another little tip.

Hard to hold the piece on the saw. I would use a sabre saw (jig saw) with a fine blade. Clamp the piece to the workbench and have at it. Alot easier than trying to twist a long piece of molding on a short table.

You really do not want to see my lumber racks Exotics can be some of natures best. They usually are heavy and oily and a challenge to cut but I like to use them for accent pieces or bottoms for my clocks. Put a finish on that piece and it will jump out even more so.

As mentioned the size of the saw does play a role in how large you can comfortably cut. The use of spiral blades is another trick that can help. I also found other little tricks that have helped me. Many time we get into a pattern of the way we normally cut, right to left or left to right. If you can learn both ways it will help doing larger patterns because you can have the piece hit the back of the saw from one angle but just cut the opposite way will cut the other half. Then there is the trick of twisting the blade 90 degrees so that the cutting teeth are facing a side of the saw and you be surprised how much you can cut doing this also. I run into this many time when I make my larger mirrors. Even though I have a RBI26" it still has some limits when I make these. One or the other tips I mentioned get me out of it. I do not and never will use spiral blades. I could never get the hang of them. That is just me though so hope some of this helps. Good luck.

If anyone is interested Grizzly is having a one week sale on the Dewalt 788 saw. $400 for saw with stand and light. That is a pretty good deal.

Make sure the blade is seating against the stops in the clamps before testing and make sure the blade is straight before installing.

This is the photo of my fix. I raised the table in the rear. Had to enlarge the bolt holes but that was easy to do.

As mention plywood is not the best material because of the different layers and grain direction keeps varying plus the glue which dulls the blade. A larger blade such as a #7 maybe of help if not too intricate of a pattern. Solid woods will cut faster unless they are exotics that are hard and dense and then they will burn. Maybe let your dog try and you collect social security. Speed of the saw is not the answer. Blade and material are. There are precision blades out there that are super sharp and will cut faster.

I guess that method will work as well. Someone must have discovered that after the method I mentioned because it was Rick and others that did the table tilt when the Dewalt first came out. It basically is the same thing. I see my photo is gone because of PhotoBucket I do have to get my photos transfered to another source. You will always have the rocking motion because of the action of the arms.

Not sure if this photo will stay or not but the fix as I said was to put a spacer in back of the table to raise it. Some did it in the front. Take a 90 degree straight edge and put behind the blade and by hand raise and lower the arm with a blade set the way you always do. You will see where the greatest gap is when you do this if it is at the top then the back needs raising and if at the bottom then the front needs raising. This problem is as old as those saws are. The greater the gap the more aggressive the cutting is. www.scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/DewltTuneUp.htm

I remember answering this question not that long ago but do not remember the forum or the topic of discussion. With the type #1 there was a table problem front to back and a shim was needed to lift the back of the table to take out the travel. Getting old and the memory is not what it use to be. I had shown a photo of my fix also. If I have time I will have another look but it is an easy fix.

No problem. The world lost a great talent in 2011 when Ray passed away. His son still keeps the dream alive about getting scrolling into the hands of the young and keeping the fine art of crafting going. Their work over the years is special and I had the chance to meet them several times over the years at scrolling events and some of the nicest people you want to meet. I have many of their patterns including that one but have as of yet gotten to it. Good luck with the project and do post photos.

That is a Dan and Ray Wilckens pattern from many years back. There is alot of pages that go with that pattern. www.wilckenswoodworking.net/miscPatterns.html