-
Posts
4,163 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
32
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN
-
Actually Dick I was sort of surprised too that it was that close. I had a feeling some people just do not realize the work that goes into a piece like this. See we as scrollers understand the time and effort it takes to do some of the woodworking we do and this is why I also believe there is more interest here than most other sites. I had shown the table on other woodworking sites and there too they get it and the interest is higher. Over the summer i hope to start my next year's project for that contest. I will try to get it done sooner next year so I can enter a few other contests. Won't be able to show it before then because that is part of the rules. Can not be seen on any sites or anywhere on the net before the contest ends. Thanks again for the kind words.
-
www.penturners.org/forum/f364/2017-pen-box-contest-winners-146299/ www.penturners.org/forum/f380/poll-2017-pen-box-contest-146156/
-
Error in judgement, any advice appreciated
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to UncleApple's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Shim goes in the back of the saw and it is whatever thickness you need to correct the undercutting. need to enlarge the 2 holes on the side of the saw also. -
Hate to say this but I squeeked out the win. I won by 4 votes and 2 and 3 had to have a run off because they were tied.
-
Error in judgement, any advice appreciated
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to UncleApple's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Applying tape is a lubricant and not a heat absorber. If you want to say that a lubricant will cause less heat then fine. A blade will cut just fine with a positive rake or a negative rake on the blade. In fact some saws you can adjust this. Such as the RBI so that statement is false. I agree the blade needs to be straight on the sides if you are not tilting the table. Again not quite sure what type cutting you are doing. When the rake of the blade is not perpendicular it will cut more aggresively either on the top or the bottom depending on which way the table is tilted. At times this is a good thing and in this case it just might be. Now when doing fret work you do not want that type of rake because it will over cut either on the bottom or the top and the cut edge will not be straight up and down. Padauk will create a lot of red or orange dust and that is what is contaminating the pores of the maple. Maybe it will brush away when finished. Wait till you are done to make that assessment. good luck. -
question about dust bellows hose problem
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to techmay2007's topic in General Scroll Sawing
What saw is it?? Can you see the action of the bellow when it is working and when it is not working??? There has to be a connection from the top of the bellow to the underside of the arm to pull it up and down. Maybe this came lose. -
I love clocks and this is no exception. Dan Wilckens make some awesome patterns and there never is a straight line to cut. Thanks for showing.
-
Very well cut. I am sure it will be received. Will forgive you for the subject matter
-
Thanks Jim. I worked on this project and a couple others that I had entered into contests on the pen turning site for a little over 3 weeks. It did go very smoothly. I did have to incorporate many jigs just to keep my fingers safe because of the small material I was using. Not sure what you are speaking of about a relief in a pool ball. If you are talking about drilling the hole for the clock insert in the large pool ball I can show the holder for it if you would like. Other than that you have to explain more and maybe I can explain better. Thanks again Duke I think I answered this one too but just in case I have a specific pen idea in my head for this box. I have seen those pool cue pens done before and maybe I will try one. Will have to see. Had to put a few things on hold as a project for the house came up that I need to get done. But I will return to the shop soon. Hello Bill. I thank you for the kind words here and other forums. I thought I would do a multi quote answer because I went back and read a few again and saw there were some questions or comments that I should address. I am glad that you like this project as well as others. It was a fun project and one that I was kicking around for some time. I do have my next year's entry mapped out in my head as I defend my title there. If i can pull it off it should also be a very nice project. But sorry you will have to wait till next year to see that one. Thanks again.
-
Error in judgement, any advice appreciated
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to UncleApple's topic in General Scroll Sawing
You got good advice already and I can not help much. Definetly need a skip tooth blade and a large one. Cutting that much wood and that dense of wood will put a huge strain on a blade and a saw. The maple is what is slowing you down plus the different grain directions I am sure are happening in there. Yes you can stop and change blades in mid cut. I have done it many times. Just let the saw catch up to your cut once again and let the blade do the cutting. This may have been one time when you should have done a bandsaw box instead of using a scrollsaw. The angle of the cuts and the thin kerf will make things hard to slide a drawer out if that is what you are doing. I am sorry but the mix of the 2 materials will haunt you right to the end and I have no way of you to stop the bleeding especially when cutting. As far as the saw goes, I too have not heard or read of that problem much any more. It was at one time a huge problem with the type #1 Dewalts. I made a fix on mine if you want me to post it I can. It is a simple fix. All I can say is good luck with this one. -
That is the most thumbs up I ever got and a trophy to go with it. I am humbled. Thank you for the kind words and the accolades. This project was a lot of fun to make and I stayed focused on making it and it went well. I would like to thank everyone who has looked at the project and posted some very nice comments and also hit the like button many times. It means alot. Being I am now able to work out of my shop once again and as long as I stay healthy I will continue to make some projects that I will be sharing with you all. I enjoy looking at others work as well and it gets the juices flowing. Thanks again.
-
Anyone for a cool game of billiards. Now the contests are over I would like to show off my 2017 Pen Box entry. This too happened to take first place. I had this idea in my head for over a year but was just not able to make it till I was able to return to my shop. I have to say I am sort of strutting my feathers on this one because it came out almost as nice as I envisioned it. I will say I had to make many jigs to pull this off because every detail needed a cut that is not normal. Doing all the compound angle cuts was challenging. Drilling the holes for the pockets needed a jig as well as cutting the rails and trim work. The rails and pockets are joined with mortise and tenon joints because end grain is not a very strong glue joint. I did have an oops when I tried flocking the table and rails. The paint/glue I used was too thick and the fibers did not stick well. I had another can of the stuff so I was able to sand back the old and add the new and it came out well. Was able to get it done in time too. Thanks for looking and any questions or comments are always welcomed. Hopefully I can get the pen I have designed for the box done, very soon. I have included a photo of a full size billiard ball which I make clocks out of, for size reference. My replica pool table box is made from Birdseye Maple and Gabon Ebony. It's measurements are 4-1/2" X 9" which is a scaled down version of a professional table. It was dipped in BLO and then top coated with 6 coats of satin lacquer. The table top has green flocking on the table as well as the bumpers. The cues were turned from maple blanks and are also satin lacquered. The butt grips are wrapped with carbon fiber. The billiard balls are miniature replicas. The rail sites are round black Swarovski crystals. All the materials used were cut and angled using various jigs. The table is an easy lift off to access the pen box compartment which has a green plush felt cushion for any size pen. The lid has guide blocks to properly seat it easily on the box. This is a neat little box which will enhance that special pen for that special billiard fan.
-
I have been asked a few times and mainly politely turned them down. Not much of a teacher. But have to say I have shown a few people my techniques and have made corrections or helpful hints to some new scrollers. I like to think I have helped moreso on sites like this. There are so many videos out there today that it is a different world we live in than when I first started. Easy to just click and watch at your own convenience. Never gave the insurance thing a thought. It is like when you have people over to install things and work on your house. There is always that fear even though they are suppose to carry insurance. It is the sue happy world we live in.
-
That came out real well and no plans that makes it even better. Take a photo when all complete. I am sure it will be well used. thanks for showing.
-
Heck if i had to put all the items I made in over 30 years of doing this I would need a server just for myself. The last time I checked my inventory sheet there is over 800 different items I made over the years and sold. Not counting things I never sold but gave away. I never did get into the photographing my work till about when I joined sites like this. I put a few items in a gallery in case someone wants to look me up when I am dead and gone to scrolling heaven. I am sort of proud of the pen stand I recently made and soon I will be posting a one of a kind pen box that has never before been done that I am really proud of. I am posting these on every site I belong to. So if you belong to other sites I am on be prepared to see them there too.
-
No the poker chips and the smaller dice are real. I made the large dice with the clock in it and of course the cards. I did scroll the half round section in the chips to hold the pen. also sanded the chips so that the main chips stands that way and I could glue it using more surface.
-
OK I will have to figure that out. Thanks.
-
This is possible. It has been quite awhile since I was here and tried adding anything to my album.
-
That is a nice piece. the cuttings look spot on. You should be proud of that one. Thanks for showing.
-
I looked again and no upload button. Have title button,file name button,date button,and position button. Someone stole my upload button. I want it back. Thanks.
-
OK it has been awhile since I posted anything in the bragging page and also wanted to add to my album. First the bragging page, seems I must have hit enter twice so I need someone to delete the one that does not have the pictures in. Second thing is how do I add photos to my album. I do not see an upload button when I click on my album. Thanks.
-
This is a pen stand/clock that I entered into a contest on the IAP penturning site this past week. They run a fund raising party during the month of Feb every year and with this there are many different themed contests. I was able to get back in my shop after 3 years of being away due to illness and family matters. It feels good to get back. Anyway this was a project I worked on and entered into the Pen Stand Contest. This was my 2017 Pen Stand Contest entry. It did take first place. Pen Stand/Clock is of a gambling theme. The materials are maple, walnut, rosewood poker chips, 2" clock insert and dice. The playing cards were cut out on a scrollsaw and done in maple. The background of the symbols was painted flat black. the large dice is walnut. The base is rosewood with a bevel detail and covered with a dark green velvet. The wood parts were top coated in a satin lacquer. The poker chips are stacked and shaped to hold a single pen of any size. The holder chips are flocked in green where the pen lays to protect it from scratching. Thanks for looking.
-
Random Orbital Sander for Scroll Saw Projects
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to Sam777's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Routers and sanders. I lost count on how many I have now. Do not really want to know. When I am in the ground I will let others sort them out. -
That is where I got many of my themed clock inserts from and back then they were using the Takane motors because that is what I have in mine. As I mentioned they use to make many of my themed inserts and use to carry many more than they have now. Good to see they have the military ones still. Use many of those. I believe those were his designs. He had a graphics designer working for them. I hope you get things worked out. You could ask them if they can make the inserts the way you would like and not have to swap things out.
-
Kevin I do not believe it is a case of greed at all. I believe it comes down to who is supplying those inserts. I say this 1000 times more. There was a change in the clock insert business. The people that use to make those clocks do not make them any more. Ask Wildwood Designs. They carried that line of clock inserts and now they are made by a different company. I know this how??? I ordered clocks from Wildwood or Cherry Tree whatever you want to call them and their clocks are not the same. They do have some older stock but I will not buy from them ever again. Had my run in with them. One company will supply all these other vendors. They are at their mercy because they can not order from China because of the number you need and they need so many different varieties and can not sell that many. I just looked at the inserts I have and plain as day it is marked Takane as the company of the motor and made in the USA right on the motor and also on the housing. That is the name you are looking for. They were the company making all these. I say were. Not sure who is making them now. Just remembered one other very good source I bought inserts from and also many other things is National Artcraft www.nationalartcraft.com/categoryB.asp?gid=2&cid=43 If you noticed the name on that motor I showed is from the first link I gave you and it is a Time One insert made in China. Maybe they were the suppliers for awhile. Now who knows. I have been away too long to keep tract.
