JTTHECLOCKMAN

Throw them in a bucket of water is another way.

I always sand my boards before and after scrolling. Most times I am dimensioning my lumber so that requires resawing, planing, and sanding to just get started before i put the pattern on. Then after cut I always run a random orbit sander over to rid of fuzzy and any tape residue if there is any. Then I blow the dust off and out of the frets with a small compressor. doing this outdoors at all times. Then pick a good day to dip and and let dry out doors. Oils will smell for a long time. So I make sure to do these projects in the summer time so I can leave a window open in the basement after I bring them in. After a few days the smell dissipates. I love my Watco. I loved it much better before they decided to stop making it and when they came back they made a slightly different formula. I could tell the difference right away.

I too can now see it for what it is. Nice idea and I am sure it will be well received. You could have either pour some red epoxy or resin in the center holes to represent the firing pins. or even added a red color plastic or wood ring. Thanks for the explanation and thanks for showing.

One other factor that needs mentioning when finishing with Danish oil, the grit you sand to can have an effect on how many coats you need to apply if you are looking for a even smooth coat. I always sand to 220 grit on scrollsawn projects. The higher the grit the more you close the pores of the wood and the more the material sits on top. It is the same for different wood species. The closer the grain the tighter the woood pores and the less liquid is allowed to penetrate.

Yes we need some info as to what we are looking at. What materials are you using and why did you choose them. It is somewhat unusual. Does the clock have a significant meaning or story behind it. Thanks for showing.

No problem with any woods. I use it on exotic woods all the time. My go to wood is red oak. I use that more than any other wood. The other woods are accent woods. Just have to wipe to get rid of any puddles. Blo is the same results. This is mahogony and maple and it is so hard to show a finish but it is one coat dipped. soaks in well and just a light wipe is all that is needed. I make all sorts of wood combinations in these baskets.

BLO dries faster. But not by much. You still need to let that cure before top coating. If you are going to top coat than of course it is cheaper. But if you are using the Danish oil as a top coat then hands down that is the way to go. As I said i do not often top coat scrollsaw projects but if I do I will use the BLO instead of Danish oil because of the mixing of materials as I mentioned. I use lacquer and not poly for top coating on 99.9% I always dip my projects. I always spray my top coats.

The main difference is 2 different products. Danish oil has polyurethane in it to give a warm gloss to the project as BLO does not. Danish oil has blo in it but other ingredients too. I use a ton of Watco Danish oil for just about all my projects. It leaves them with a soft glow and smooth to touch feel. Sometimes with things like shelves magazine racks and things of this nature I will top coat with Watco satin polish. I do use BLO when I want to pop the grain of wood but want to top coat with either a lacquer or a poly. That stuff does not interfer with the top coat and I do not have to put a shelac to break that bond.

Sell it. Had to say that. Did the saw vibrate as much as it does now when you bought it??? Is that your first saw??? Many people buy inexpensive saws and then find out all the vibration and difficulties associated with changing blades and such that they get discouraged and walk away from a beautiful art form. You can try the rubber mat under the saw to dampen it. Making sure it is mounted on a sturdy platform or stand is a help. Make sure the legs of the stand are flat on a solid floor. Any movement from the base will transfer up to the saw's table. If the saw did not vibrate as much when you bought it it maybe the bearings are starting to go. Other than that I can not help but wish you luck.

$65 to $75

This is all out cool and the precision is right on. Nice work

Len his patterns are some of the finest out there. I remember when he first started making patterns and i still have a few of his earlier ones. he has come a long way. beautiful works of art. Lots of fret work for sure. I too have seen something similar but can not remember where. I believe it is a sewing pattern of some sort. Good luck sorry I can not help.

The older Dewalt saws were that way also and I know I made an adjustment back then too.

I did not follow this post. I am missing something here.

This sounds like an open circuit and it can be caused by vibration from the saw causing it to open or it can be from heat. The electronic board may have a cold solder joint that is causing intermediate problems. If the motor was burnt it would not run. Is the saw under warrenty?? If so do not mess with it. If not then take a good look at the electronics and look for dark areas on the board or look for loose wires. You did not mention it but I assume if you have a foot switch you did take that out of the circuit. Also you looked at the outlet Like I mentioned. Just did not know if you saw my post.

If you are using a foot switch, the first thing is disconnect and try running the saw. If still the same problem it sounds electrical. If it were mechanical the motor would sit and hum and not be able to spin. My guess would be either dust in the switch which is a common problem or a broken or loose wire somewhere in the circuit. If it stops see if you can push the arm up and down and see if it takes off. Make sure the plug is in outlet all the way and that the outlet is working fine. Plug something else in it and run it. Always start at the beginning before taking everything apart. Make sure the fuse cap is seated properly and did not vibrate loose. Report back.

Anchorseal for the logs or just latex paint a few coats to seal the ends. Will not stop it completely. That is impossible. It will also trap moisture in so when needed they still need to be dried. As far a drying faster. Do a google search but many turners will do an alcohol bath. Denatured alcohol and store the blank for 24 hours and the water will be absorbed. Then cover in paper bags and let dry for a week. Some people have old toaster ovens that they set on low and cycle a heating pattern for 24 hours. Many ways of doing it. a lot depends on the density of the wood and moisture content. Many turners will turn a bowl rough round and then let it air dry. What that does it takes much of the material off. But the bowl will warp some and this is fixed when final shaping. Again a turners forum or google will help you.

what saw is it?

If you have a band saw that would be the better way to go about that. With that said most people above told you the reasons it is probably tough to do. If you want to play around and try it get yourself some larger blades like a #9 or larger so they o not flex as much as thinner blades. Use some scrap wood and draw a line down the top and start cutting freehand as best as possible. When you think you have the saw cutting along the line as straight as you see fit, stop the saw but do not move the wood being cut. You will now see the amount of drift for that particular blade as the wood will be a somewhat of an angle. Take a pencil and trace the edge of the wood onto the table. That is now your reference point. Whatever size that you want to cut will be measured off that line. Now take a straight piece of wood or metal (I would use a piece of aluminum from Home Depot) and use some double sided tape. You now reference the edge of the aluminum off your marks. It is the only way you will have a shot at this. You can use this method for cutting on a bandsaw also to compensate for drift of the blade. Good luck and hope you understand what I just wrote.

Under misc. patterns.

My suggestion would be to encase the wood with some strips of solid wood that is straight. You need to put on both side and stagered. Then wrap with string or wire. You can make variations of this idea too. Make a box and have a lid that can compress the contents and stand on edge.

They all are about the same noise level. A lot quieter than a shop vac for sure. I made mine even quieter by lining the inside with some solid foam boards. They work well when you use them.

I have a 220 and a 226 and they are 1998 and since I had them I had to replace the upper arm quick release on the 220 once. It gets more use than the 226 but still working like the first day I bought them so do not let the age bother you. I have reservations about that being a barrel clamp though. Mine are the newer style and my saws are older than that saw if they are being truthful on the age. It is a bottom feeder but plenty of room under the arm when it raises. I love my RBI saws and would buy another before I bought any other saw. I do have a hegner and a dewalt and they are not as used as much.

It is a $1000 saw. Go from there Have to make sure it runs well, has the clamps (can be ordered) bellow is good ( can be ordered) VS works well. Not much more goes wrong with them. They are a workhorse.

I have an older single speed from Penn State Industries many years ago. Jet I think makes for them now. Really no need for 3 speeds but seems that is the way they come these days. I put in on in my shop as soon as I enter and turn it off 1 hour after I leave. The remote control again to me is a joke. Mine is on a switched outlet, I was thinking of putting it on a timer but have not really gotten there yet. they are a must if you have a full blow work shop and use tablesaws and planers and sanders. They will catch that small particle dust that just lingers in the air. You are not going to be turning it on and off while you are in the shop. If you are cutting and making dust in the shop you turn it on and as I said leave it run for awhile after you leave. They have a pre filter and a 1 micron filter that needs to be replaced every so often so if you get one it is a good idea to have that filter for a spare. Depending how much work you do in the shop will determine how long it lasts. I have a full blown shop so I probably replace every 2 years. But I do a quick vac of it in between. It is pleated so you will not be able to get into it, just the edges. All are about the same. By the way by no means does that take the place of a dust collector or even a dust mask so do not think that way. It is just another layer of safety to let you enjoy the hobby safely.