JTTHECLOCKMAN

Len his patterns are some of the finest out there. I remember when he first started making patterns and i still have a few of his earlier ones. he has come a long way. beautiful works of art. Lots of fret work for sure. I too have seen something similar but can not remember where. I believe it is a sewing pattern of some sort. Good luck sorry I can not help.

The older Dewalt saws were that way also and I know I made an adjustment back then too.

I did not follow this post. I am missing something here.

This sounds like an open circuit and it can be caused by vibration from the saw causing it to open or it can be from heat. The electronic board may have a cold solder joint that is causing intermediate problems. If the motor was burnt it would not run. Is the saw under warrenty?? If so do not mess with it. If not then take a good look at the electronics and look for dark areas on the board or look for loose wires. You did not mention it but I assume if you have a foot switch you did take that out of the circuit. Also you looked at the outlet Like I mentioned. Just did not know if you saw my post.

If you are using a foot switch, the first thing is disconnect and try running the saw. If still the same problem it sounds electrical. If it were mechanical the motor would sit and hum and not be able to spin. My guess would be either dust in the switch which is a common problem or a broken or loose wire somewhere in the circuit. If it stops see if you can push the arm up and down and see if it takes off. Make sure the plug is in outlet all the way and that the outlet is working fine. Plug something else in it and run it. Always start at the beginning before taking everything apart. Make sure the fuse cap is seated properly and did not vibrate loose. Report back.

Anchorseal for the logs or just latex paint a few coats to seal the ends. Will not stop it completely. That is impossible. It will also trap moisture in so when needed they still need to be dried. As far a drying faster. Do a google search but many turners will do an alcohol bath. Denatured alcohol and store the blank for 24 hours and the water will be absorbed. Then cover in paper bags and let dry for a week. Some people have old toaster ovens that they set on low and cycle a heating pattern for 24 hours. Many ways of doing it. a lot depends on the density of the wood and moisture content. Many turners will turn a bowl rough round and then let it air dry. What that does it takes much of the material off. But the bowl will warp some and this is fixed when final shaping. Again a turners forum or google will help you.

what saw is it?

If you have a band saw that would be the better way to go about that. With that said most people above told you the reasons it is probably tough to do. If you want to play around and try it get yourself some larger blades like a #9 or larger so they o not flex as much as thinner blades. Use some scrap wood and draw a line down the top and start cutting freehand as best as possible. When you think you have the saw cutting along the line as straight as you see fit, stop the saw but do not move the wood being cut. You will now see the amount of drift for that particular blade as the wood will be a somewhat of an angle. Take a pencil and trace the edge of the wood onto the table. That is now your reference point. Whatever size that you want to cut will be measured off that line. Now take a straight piece of wood or metal (I would use a piece of aluminum from Home Depot) and use some double sided tape. You now reference the edge of the aluminum off your marks. It is the only way you will have a shot at this. You can use this method for cutting on a bandsaw also to compensate for drift of the blade. Good luck and hope you understand what I just wrote.

Under misc. patterns.

My suggestion would be to encase the wood with some strips of solid wood that is straight. You need to put on both side and stagered. Then wrap with string or wire. You can make variations of this idea too. Make a box and have a lid that can compress the contents and stand on edge.

They all are about the same noise level. A lot quieter than a shop vac for sure. I made mine even quieter by lining the inside with some solid foam boards. They work well when you use them.

I have a 220 and a 226 and they are 1998 and since I had them I had to replace the upper arm quick release on the 220 once. It gets more use than the 226 but still working like the first day I bought them so do not let the age bother you. I have reservations about that being a barrel clamp though. Mine are the newer style and my saws are older than that saw if they are being truthful on the age. It is a bottom feeder but plenty of room under the arm when it raises. I love my RBI saws and would buy another before I bought any other saw. I do have a hegner and a dewalt and they are not as used as much.

It is a $1000 saw. Go from there Have to make sure it runs well, has the clamps (can be ordered) bellow is good ( can be ordered) VS works well. Not much more goes wrong with them. They are a workhorse.

I have an older single speed from Penn State Industries many years ago. Jet I think makes for them now. Really no need for 3 speeds but seems that is the way they come these days. I put in on in my shop as soon as I enter and turn it off 1 hour after I leave. The remote control again to me is a joke. Mine is on a switched outlet, I was thinking of putting it on a timer but have not really gotten there yet. they are a must if you have a full blow work shop and use tablesaws and planers and sanders. They will catch that small particle dust that just lingers in the air. You are not going to be turning it on and off while you are in the shop. If you are cutting and making dust in the shop you turn it on and as I said leave it run for awhile after you leave. They have a pre filter and a 1 micron filter that needs to be replaced every so often so if you get one it is a good idea to have that filter for a spare. Depending how much work you do in the shop will determine how long it lasts. I have a full blown shop so I probably replace every 2 years. But I do a quick vac of it in between. It is pleated so you will not be able to get into it, just the edges. All are about the same. By the way by no means does that take the place of a dust collector or even a dust mask so do not think that way. It is just another layer of safety to let you enjoy the hobby safely.

Again here is my take and the first thing is to remeasure the hole drilled and make sure it was 1-3/8" Next is look to see if it uses a rubber ring to hold it in and if so is it there. If the insert uses the plastic springs make sure they were not broken from foring into the first project or from taking out of the first project. To fix. If it has a rubber ring and it is not there you can order them seperately or if you have one from another insert you are not using. Or you can just use a rubber band and that will work also. If it has the plastic clips and they are stretched you can put some piece of cardboard behind them to bring them back out or some other material. Would like to see a reply from you as to what is happening.

Steve, I have a bunch of the small baby food jars that I was doing this in. It really was no ratio thing. I would just pour some powder and add the alcohol. The thing I noticed that no matter how much color or alcohol you add the color is what the color is and no more is absorbed. In other words you can not make the color lighter or darker. Then all the crystals remain on the bottom of the jar and can not be reused. The crystals do not dissolve in the alcohol.

As mentioned above those mini inserts use a rubber ring to hold them in place. If you do not have this it will fall out of the hole. Now what can also happen with those things is that you will see there are small extenders for a lack of a better term all around that ring in groups of 3. There is a proper way to face the ring around the insert so that it makes it easier to install in the hole and if not done correctly you can break these off and it now loosen the insert and will not grab correctly. Maybe something to look at.

I have colored wood before using Rit dyes and they are powder. I mixed in alcohol so no grain raising and they penetrate deeply. Then top coat to keep looking new. Never on puzzles as I mentioned i do not do puzzles.

I would not of guessed this. I do not do puzzles so I defer to the experts here.

If you are making puzzles than plywood is the way to go. It is way more stable. Solid wood does move with moisture and it is just the nature of it. Use some fancy plywoods can work well as too BB which can be colored various ways. Finnish plywood is also very nice wood.

That is an average price for walnut. Not sure what you comparison is. Ever buy walnut plywood??? Can not compare solid boards to plywood for many reasons. Try buying Hondorous Mahagony then get back to me when you are done crying.

To me when that phrase is used it tells me it is time to start working on NEW projects for next year. Out with the old and in with the new. Every year I like to add something new to the line and probably phase some old things out. i have a basement shop so I am able to work through the winter months with no problem and this is when I get most things done. Has been a few years since I was able to be in the shop and I have a lot of catching up to do. As far as doing a complete clean up, that has not happened in many years. I do try to keep it somewhat manageable or else I would not find everything. Plus makes for tougher place to walk.

All very nice work. Hard to pick a favorite but the multi-layered cross is beautiful. Nice job with all and thanks for showing.

We really do not know what grade people are talking about. Plywood as well as all board lumber is graded. Within those grades is all the fill. what woods were used to infill the plywood. Top quality grade plywood is going to cost in any species. The origination of the plywood will also have an effect on price. I am not a fan of buying any lumber sight unseen. Sometimes you are forced to but you use it as a learning experience too.

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