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JTTHECLOCKMAN

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Everything posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN

  1. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    No because it is a matter of what saw is being used. The travel of the blade is different on all saws. Put an auxilary table top and it changes things even more. All you need is a couple teeth to knock the fuzzies off. You are not cutting with those teeth. If you want to cut with both up and down stroke then use a combination blade.
  2. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Most people choose to sit because it is less tiresome and lets you scroll longer. There is no set rules for height. What feels comfortable. But in turning and also scrolling the basic rule that most follow is to have the arms bent at a 90 degree angle and that is a good height. Now if you build to stand then this will change when sitting but you can adjust the height of a chair. The saw with the back higher than the front is just a comfort thing. Dewalt usually does that with their stands. Makes for seeing a little better. We all fall into our own patterns after a while because some people have bad backs or bad eyesight and other factors so each is different. Good luck.
  3. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Did you try hobby lobby or AC Moore??? If they do not have it then here is the best place on the net that I know of. They have all kinds of felt. The stiff sheets are on the second page www.darice.com/store/browse/catalog/wholesale-basics-felt-sheets
  4. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    What beginners think they have to do is keep cutting when making a 90 degree turn or greater and that is the last thing you want to do. You want to stop your cutting and put slight pressure on the back of the blade and then pivot. If that does not feel right for you and there is room then make another slice right along side the first cut thus making a wider opening to make the turn. It does take a little practice but is done very easily. I scroll 3/4" oak all the time and use a #5 blade and have no problem.
  5. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Good to see you disabled the VS of that foot switch. never use a VS foot switch in conjunction with the VS of the motor on your saw. You will burn it up(motor) I too use the momentary switch and is alot more convenient than turning a switch on and off on the saw in my opinion. I also sit at my saw and happen to use a bar stool. Gives me the right height. What I have done is used a board and stuck it through the rungs and it acts as a platform where I place the switch and it makes it comfortable. Just like sitting at a bar at least I am told
  6. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I will ditto exactly what Dan just said.
  7. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    In the air. any time you blow dust no matter what device you are using, unless you have a vac hooked up then it gets blown in the air. It is of course better if it blows away from you but wearing a dust mask is still a good idea.
  8. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    We use to have a Woodcraft and a couple other tool stores where they sold major tools and supplies but they could not survive here and got swallowed up by the big box stores and the internet. I miss those stores because we could always go in and play with the toys. The location for putting the blade in the lower clamp could have been better worked out. With the Rbi it is right in the arm and makes it very convenient. That saw you have to get up and do it or if you have a chair with wheels, roll over to it. It does look like a solid saw though.
  9. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Maybe it was not tauted as a clone but it sure does look like one. has many of the EX and Dewalt features and they both copied that front arm blade cutting motion. I did watch a couple of the videos on the net now about that saw and it looks well made. It maybe a bottom feeder but with the arm being lifted as high as you can there is no need for bending over to see the holes so I would not say that is not that bad of thing. Looks like a nice saw. If the EX does not make a come back this maybe the saw to replace it. I will stick with my RBI but it is another player out there. Hope to one day take for a test spin if someone has one that I run into.
  10. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    We see the nut but can we see where it attaches and maybe we can come up with an alternative all together. Just wanting to help.
  11. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I have yet to see this saw up close but what makes you say this is strickly a bottom feeder. I thought it was a clone of the Ex and Dewalt??? May have to take a look at the specs of the saw. Unfortunately we do not have tool stores here any more. They close so fast because of the internet these days.
  12. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Oh yea!!!! That art is a lot about sanding and shaping. Then you need to learn how to build levels to give the 3D look. It is an art and when done correctly it is amazing. You do need an artists eye. there are patterns and usually helpful hints on those patterns but your imagination is also put to the test. Hats off to those that do it and do it well.
  13. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    My suggestions would be first to back the piece up with some flat scrap and make sure it is clamped tight to the top piece so that the drill keeps drilling like it was just another layer of wood. Next would be drill till the point starts to appear and then drill from the back side using the point as your starting point. finally do not push real hard when coming through. Lighten up and let the bit do the work. other than that that is all I have. Good luck.
  14. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Well laid out and the work is beautiful I bet you sell out. I bet you will do so well if you have other shows you better get started today. Do report back to us. I see a $1000 day there easy.
  15. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I use screws when doing things with a base. I work the base and the project separately. I predrill the base in prep for the project.
  16. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Another good sale performance. I hope mine in 2 weeks is as good. That is a lot of space to cover. Bet that kept you hoping. I can relate to the last minute sales thing. I had an Asian person that was a repeat customer of mine at one show and she was running late. So I stalled my cleanup the best I could and she finally showed up. I sold her 6 of my fruit baskets that I make and she was sending them all around the world for Christmas gifts. That was a great sale but she even bought a few more things too for herself. Always was one of my better customers. I had 3 at that one show that basically I supplied so many things for their houses. You always need those repeat customers to help the final sales totals. Good luck with the rest of your shows. I will have to remember to take my camera to shoot my setup which is a lot more unorganized than yours. I wish I had that space.
  17. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I need the magnifier so a fluorescent bulb is my choice. I remember at one time I only used that light for the light and now I can not scroll without the magnifier
  18. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    www.sloanswoodshop.com/clock%20inserts.htm www.bearwood.com/clock-inserts-fit-ups-2-3-4-inches.html http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/home.php?cat=20 www.woodworkingparts.com/2-3-4-clock-fit-up/ I use to promote Wildwood Designs but have stopped. You can take your chances there. I will say this all these companies buy from the same dealerships. If possible I try to use the inserts with the clips. They are becoming harder to find and most use the rubber gaskets. They dry out and at times are hard to get inserted in the hole properly. The last time I ordered from Sloans they still had them but that was over 2 years ago and I have been somewhat out of the loop. Stay away from ordering from Steebar. Bad things happen there. Now they do make various grades. Economy, standard ( all have plastic bezels) and Premium if you can still find them. They have a glass bezel and better motor but are expensive. I use those on the special projects. Good luck.
  19. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    If you need to keep production levels high then you need to hire some elves to help out.
  20. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Yea I learned that one quickly because I started using my fingernail also and then I had all these little pieces of tape stuck to my fingers and I spent even more time picking them off my hands.
  21. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Just a note about packing tape and other tapes used for the lubricating value of it. It is not the tape or the glue that is the lubricating factor, it is the product that is put on top of the tape to allow the layers to unroll. If this product and I do not know what the chemical make-up is and each company may have their own formula, was not on the top of the tape the tape would stick too well to itself and not be able to unroll. Different brand tapes may work better than others for this because of this chemical additive. It is always amazing how these topics are still alive as the next generation of scrollers appear on the scene. I remember talking about these same topics some 20 years ago.
  22. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I say the answer to your question is yes and no. I am not a fan of using packing tape especially under a pattern. I believe it pulls off in smaller pieces than blue painters tape. Some use packing tape on top of the pattern. There are many ways people use tape or do not use tape. You can develop your own method for there is not right or wrong way. give things a try and decide for yourself what you feel is a nice easy clean way of doing it. Good luck and happy scrolling.
  23. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Frank, I believe you made the right move by using the tape. yes it may take a little longer to remove all the little piece but you are going to have to do that anyway if you just sprayed the pattern on. This way you have a clean look and do not have to scrub it down. I use an exacto knife to pick the pieces because of the point on the blade and I do it all the time. I bought that 3m tape at a yard sale from a retired painter and he had about 50 rolls all different sizes. So I am set for many projects. Nice work on that project.
  24. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    The thing about blue tape or any tape for that matter, the longer you leave it on the wood the more harder it gets to peel off. If you start a project and do not get back to it for a few weeks then it may be a little harder to peel off. I too use the green or even purple tape if the project has many delicate pieces which is rare. I use to use a heat gun when I glued the pattern directly on the wood. Yes it worked but it was still a pain. Had to always wipe down the piece afterward with acetone. Now just a bit of sanding and ready to go. I have to sand the piece anyway to rid of the fuzzies. Back in the day there were many people who would use shelving paper (sticky backed) for the under the pattern. Maybe something to try for some. I never did try it but people talked about it.
  25. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    As I posted in my response i too use a spindle sander or basically a larger drum sander. The sanding drums require you to use a plate and a nut to squeeze the drum so it snugs against the sleeve. They are always smaller in diameter than the sleeve so you change grits easier. With each size drum come with the proper end plates so it is always proportioned to that drum. They are more industrial and better quality. That is the difference.
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