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JTTHECLOCKMAN

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Everything posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN

  1. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Oh yea!!!! That art is a lot about sanding and shaping. Then you need to learn how to build levels to give the 3D look. It is an art and when done correctly it is amazing. You do need an artists eye. there are patterns and usually helpful hints on those patterns but your imagination is also put to the test. Hats off to those that do it and do it well.
  2. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    My suggestions would be first to back the piece up with some flat scrap and make sure it is clamped tight to the top piece so that the drill keeps drilling like it was just another layer of wood. Next would be drill till the point starts to appear and then drill from the back side using the point as your starting point. finally do not push real hard when coming through. Lighten up and let the bit do the work. other than that that is all I have. Good luck.
  3. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Well laid out and the work is beautiful I bet you sell out. I bet you will do so well if you have other shows you better get started today. Do report back to us. I see a $1000 day there easy.
  4. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I use screws when doing things with a base. I work the base and the project separately. I predrill the base in prep for the project.
  5. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Another good sale performance. I hope mine in 2 weeks is as good. That is a lot of space to cover. Bet that kept you hoping. I can relate to the last minute sales thing. I had an Asian person that was a repeat customer of mine at one show and she was running late. So I stalled my cleanup the best I could and she finally showed up. I sold her 6 of my fruit baskets that I make and she was sending them all around the world for Christmas gifts. That was a great sale but she even bought a few more things too for herself. Always was one of my better customers. I had 3 at that one show that basically I supplied so many things for their houses. You always need those repeat customers to help the final sales totals. Good luck with the rest of your shows. I will have to remember to take my camera to shoot my setup which is a lot more unorganized than yours. I wish I had that space.
  6. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I need the magnifier so a fluorescent bulb is my choice. I remember at one time I only used that light for the light and now I can not scroll without the magnifier
  7. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    www.sloanswoodshop.com/clock%20inserts.htm www.bearwood.com/clock-inserts-fit-ups-2-3-4-inches.html http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/home.php?cat=20 www.woodworkingparts.com/2-3-4-clock-fit-up/ I use to promote Wildwood Designs but have stopped. You can take your chances there. I will say this all these companies buy from the same dealerships. If possible I try to use the inserts with the clips. They are becoming harder to find and most use the rubber gaskets. They dry out and at times are hard to get inserted in the hole properly. The last time I ordered from Sloans they still had them but that was over 2 years ago and I have been somewhat out of the loop. Stay away from ordering from Steebar. Bad things happen there. Now they do make various grades. Economy, standard ( all have plastic bezels) and Premium if you can still find them. They have a glass bezel and better motor but are expensive. I use those on the special projects. Good luck.
  8. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    If you need to keep production levels high then you need to hire some elves to help out.
  9. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Yea I learned that one quickly because I started using my fingernail also and then I had all these little pieces of tape stuck to my fingers and I spent even more time picking them off my hands.
  10. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Just a note about packing tape and other tapes used for the lubricating value of it. It is not the tape or the glue that is the lubricating factor, it is the product that is put on top of the tape to allow the layers to unroll. If this product and I do not know what the chemical make-up is and each company may have their own formula, was not on the top of the tape the tape would stick too well to itself and not be able to unroll. Different brand tapes may work better than others for this because of this chemical additive. It is always amazing how these topics are still alive as the next generation of scrollers appear on the scene. I remember talking about these same topics some 20 years ago.
  11. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I say the answer to your question is yes and no. I am not a fan of using packing tape especially under a pattern. I believe it pulls off in smaller pieces than blue painters tape. Some use packing tape on top of the pattern. There are many ways people use tape or do not use tape. You can develop your own method for there is not right or wrong way. give things a try and decide for yourself what you feel is a nice easy clean way of doing it. Good luck and happy scrolling.
  12. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Frank, I believe you made the right move by using the tape. yes it may take a little longer to remove all the little piece but you are going to have to do that anyway if you just sprayed the pattern on. This way you have a clean look and do not have to scrub it down. I use an exacto knife to pick the pieces because of the point on the blade and I do it all the time. I bought that 3m tape at a yard sale from a retired painter and he had about 50 rolls all different sizes. So I am set for many projects. Nice work on that project.
  13. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    The thing about blue tape or any tape for that matter, the longer you leave it on the wood the more harder it gets to peel off. If you start a project and do not get back to it for a few weeks then it may be a little harder to peel off. I too use the green or even purple tape if the project has many delicate pieces which is rare. I use to use a heat gun when I glued the pattern directly on the wood. Yes it worked but it was still a pain. Had to always wipe down the piece afterward with acetone. Now just a bit of sanding and ready to go. I have to sand the piece anyway to rid of the fuzzies. Back in the day there were many people who would use shelving paper (sticky backed) for the under the pattern. Maybe something to try for some. I never did try it but people talked about it.
  14. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    As I posted in my response i too use a spindle sander or basically a larger drum sander. The sanding drums require you to use a plate and a nut to squeeze the drum so it snugs against the sleeve. They are always smaller in diameter than the sleeve so you change grits easier. With each size drum come with the proper end plates so it is always proportioned to that drum. They are more industrial and better quality. That is the difference.
  15. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    The best way to sand the rubber down a bit is if you had a lathe. Then you will sand evenly. If you do not the sleeve can have a flat spot. Sticking it in the freezer for about 15 minutes is a good way but if you keep changing grits that can be a pain. There are times those sleeves have a burr on the edges. May help to take a piece of sandpaper and sand the edges some to give it a cone shape somewhat. The only time I use a drum sander like that is on my industrial drum sander and the rubber drums are slightly smaller and they always rely on the squeezing from the plate put on top and tightening the nut.
  16. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I agree with the need for photos in order for us to add anything to this. Not sure what size that pattern is but if you are using multiple pages to make a full pattern that too can be tricky. I have to do that with the mirror I make because they would be too expensive to have full sized pattern made on a plotter. I would not use CA glue on this. I would use Titebond II wood glue for gluing wood to wood. You may need to construct a jig of some sort to hold while glue dries but it will allow you to make adjustments if need be. If you are using CA you need to use a Med viscosity CA as opposed to the thin stuff. That just sucks right into the wood and will not hold well. Post some photos and let us see what you have and are doing.
  17. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    My words no one else said it. If anyone wants to use their beautiful wood trivets for hot plates go right ahead. I ever sell any more my warning will always stand.
  18. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I love making pens and get a fair $$$ for them so to me they are more lucrative. I can easily make more money selling pens and I do sell them along side my scrolled items at shows.
  19. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Kevin do not get me wrong people do it as you are reading here there are some that tempt fate and maybe get away with it. But wood and heat do not mix no how or else they would make pots out of wood I use to make many of those collapsible baskets when they were all the rage and always told people not to use for hot plates and pans. They were trivets. What people do when they make trivets designed for hot things they usually have a center ceramic tile or two of sorts that the pan can sit on and it dissipates the heat better.
  20. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    I also do both and will say that if you want to make more money then turning is the way to go. The reason there is a greater audience to sell to than scroll work. I learned very quickly over 30 years ago when I started doing scroll work, people want functional items. The magazine racks, tissue boxes, napkin holders and of course clocks. The days of selling portraits and wall hanging things is and has always been a tough sell. Religious crosses will do fine too. But for the quick $$$$ turning a few pens will make you more money than hours of scrolling. Do not get me wrong there is always room for both. Turning is a higher initial outlay for tools and materials so it will take some time to recoup those losses so remember that too. Scrolling is not as much. Both are enjoyable hobbies and then combine the two and you really got things rolling. Those are my thoughts.
  21. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Now there are theorys to both reasons of thinking when it comes to releasing tension. I always got into the habit of releasing when not in use. The thing about releasing the tension on a bandsaw is more prevalent because if the blade is left tensioned it can produce flat spots in the tires that surround the wheels and you then can get a hop when sawing. This has been proven. Saw blades will stretch with use due to heat and tension. So even if you leave your saw tensioned it is possible when you get back to it the blade needs more tension again. It is not that big of a deal to untension the blade and err on the caution side of things.
  22. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Sam it is not even recommended to put a hot plate or pan on any wood surface, finished or unfinished. Those trivets are made for cool items like baskets of bread and things like that and then any finish is good to go. Again I like Danish oil because it has that low volume of polyurethane in it to protect and can easily be repaired if need be. If you are putting hot plates or bowls out then use something like a ceramic tile insert in it. You would not put a hot plate on your wood table or at least I hope not. Those are my thoughts.
  23. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Trans Tint dyes. Google for location. Woodcraft use to carry it. Not sure now.
  24. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    OK Joe so you did not make this one but you are working on one like it. I still would go with a smaller blade. Good luck and when you get one done be sure to post a photo.
  25. JTTHECLOCKMAN
    Well Joe, thanks for posting the photo. Looks like to me you did a fine job with it. Have to say I never seen a basket like that. What is it design to hold??? I did mention there are many types of baskets out there and now I have to add this one to the list. As far was to what you called a problem, the only thing I can suggest is yes a smaller blade will let you spin the wood easier and probably help with cutting the joints tighter. But from here it looks like you did a fine job with it. I say keep doing what you are doing and happy scrolling.
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