JTTHECLOCKMAN

I have not seen the jet yet and have not actually tested any new Dewalts. My question is what is the major difference of them. They were suppose to be built off the same platform. Other than the blades not holding for I believe that is as you said a minor adjustment. Has the Dewalt done anything with the arm raising on its own or the jet??? What would make the Dewalt more top feed friendly over the jet as again I thought they were built on the same platform and are basically clones. Thanks for the feedback.

I have not dealt with the new owners of the Haks but it gets frustrating. Glad you are up and running.

I would probably paint those on. A more detailed puzzle I would do as mentioned veining.

This is something like the question being asked about the lacquer painted backboard going on now too. There are some that will tell you E6000 will work. It is sort of an epoxy. Some will tell you a Med or thick CA glue may work( either one may work) but my opinion is use a 2 part epoxy. Titebond will not work either II or III That glue is meant to glue wood to wood. Whenever you have a gloss surface between you will run into problems and my choice would be epoxy. My choice of epoxy for any glue ups I do is Systems III T88 I too would have added the letters before top coating with the poly and then you could have used the Titebond products. Good luck

I just got off the phone with Wildwood/Cherry tree to follow up what I had mentioned on here and I am steaming. Talked to the head of sales who was a women and sounded like an older person so I did not want to jump all over her. I asked to speak to someone with higher authority but she would not put me in touch with anyone and just told me to email the sales dept and they will read my complaint. I told her yes then they hit delete. She insisted they never had a sports line of 2-3/4" inserts or half of the others I mentioned to her. She has been there 11 years and told her she was mistaken. Then she tells me that the batteries in the inserts are not warranted. So they send me 23 inserts with dead batteries and now I have to buy batteries. When I bought them I bought with the intention of putting right into my project. I will say this that vendor has lost my business. I will not promote them any more. My confidence in them is shot and if I deal with someone I need to be sure they will support what they sell. I may have to pay a little more up front but if I can get satisfaction then I am OK with that. As far as inserts that are not offered any more I will have to deal with that. I wish all well who deal with them. Wildwood was a great company to work with but something major changed and not for the better. Sorry for the rant.

Thanks I have made many different combinations. They sell well. Have not made any in a few years now and do not even know if they still sell the rings. I have been away too long and catching up on all this stuff is taxing to say the least.

I sure will report back. I did not get a chance today. I had just ordered some clock inserts from them last week. The very first 2 I went to use did not work. Maybe old stock or returns and just put back on the shelf. I replaced the batteries and still nothing. So this got me in the try them all mode. Had to replace the batteries on 90% of them but all others worked and i ran for 48 hours. They now owe me a boat load of batteries and 2 2" inserts. I have noticed since they merged with Cherry Tree the business is not the same. I never had a problem with clock inserts for they use to check them before sending out. They have done away with a ton of inserts. They no longer sell any sports, Fire Dept, flags in 2" and so many more. This is truly disappointing and I need to find out their plans. Their web site even stinks. It use to so user friendly and everything had a photo as soon as you clicked on a category. They use to offer quantity discounts and now stopped all that and took an average price and that is what they are sold at. They are still cheaper than most vendors though. The problem is no one else now carries the inserts they stopped with either. Maybe the distributor stopped making them. I use to know a dealer in the US that designed and sold special inserts but they are not in business any more. I only wish I had known all this before I got sick. I would have stock piled because i use so many different themed clock inserts in my projects. I hopefully will find something out tomorrow.

Saws like the Dewalt are different when it comes to setting tension because the blade does not land in the same place all the time. Saws such as the Hawks and Hegners the blade lands in the same place all the time thus no need to adjust tension arms. I haven't touched the back tension arm on my Hawks since I got them some 15 or so years ago. I use blades from 6/0 jewelers blades to #9 wood blades. If I notice a jewelers bl;ade breaking more I may back off because they are a different material and not always the same. One thing that gets overlooked sometimes with blades is that they do stretch and the more a blade is used and retensioned it stretches. Again with the Dewalt and saws like it feel is the key. You can feel tension after some use very easily and I do not believe people just go by the number on the tension lever on the Dewalt.

Jerry you are ranting about the wrong thing sir. Take a cup of coffee What he is saying is he can not get enough tension on the blade even at the highest setting. If i am reading this right. If the blades are not slipping it is very possible there is a bolt that has come loose. Take the cover off and take a look. If not the link of that video is the person that actually has a vast knowledge of that saw and he has put together 4 parts on the saw and also has a video where he explains the saws origin and it is actually very interesting Check it out.

I think this was in another thread but my response then is the same here. Just stop cutting before you make the turn and then spin the wood. What is happening is you are trying to cut while turning. Not going to happen when making sharp turns without burning. Stop cutting and put slight pressure on the back of the blade as if you are trying to cut with the back of the blade and spin the wood. You will be spinning with no problem.

Dave in my opinion the answer is no. That stuff is messy and comes in a tube. It is good for spot gluing. I have used this stuff before but had failures after some time past. Stopped using it. If I am going to need a strong glue I will use a two part epoxy. ( System III T88 epoxy) But again for gluing fret work it would be messy because you can not really control the amount applied to the point you do not have squeeze out. What I think you need to do is take a look at your method. What is the look you are after when done? Are you after a glossy finish on both the main piece and the backer. When you say black lacquer is that a gloss lacquer??? Why not use a water based paint so when you use the Titebond II it will adhere well to the wood. If you are glossing after everything will then be glossed together. Not quite following your method. Anytime you you try gluing anything to a gloss finish you will have problems and thus the need for epoxy. I would not use it for your application. As I said if you explain your thoughts and methods a bit more we can be more specific. Here is an example of that E6000 glue failure. At one time I used that to glue the gold trim rings on my trinket boxes. Had the rings come off after a couple years and probably would have been sooner if used alot. That was embarassing to say the least. Now use the epoxy I mentioned and so far no failures. And yes the glue was fresh. I do not trust it.

Wildwood 1-7/16" photo insert is #27051 I will be calling them Monday because I need some 2" photo inserts and I can not find the # They have been doing away with many of their inserts and it is really getting bad. I will also try to talk with someone of importance and see what their plans are in the future.

Craft stores like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, and Ac Moore may carry some. But you will do a better price if buying in bulk on line such a Wildood Designs.

That came out real well. You captured her spot on. I am sure she will treasure that. A few more as she grows up are in the cards now. Thanks for showing.

The best method is probably using wood glue and securing a small piece where the hook will go just to beef it up a tad. They sell small screws as small as you need them. I buy from here. www.smallboxhardware.com/prodview.lasso?searchfor=Fasteners&showtype=thumbs&searchitem=brass&shop=60&howMany=64.0&-session=Site_Preferences:47ACCE3418c2834480IKN3348705

That did come out really well. Good to hear from someone who has tried it. Eventually I am going to give this a try. Thanks for showing.

I would run with long dimension.

I remember well when that magazine went to print and in fact they celebrated with a picnic and remember being there for that. Talked to all the publishers and they were so high on that magazine. John Nelson was one of their big pattern contributers and I worked with him on a a few patterns that made it big. The one that was all the rage was the flexible watch and got a huge write up in the magazine. It became a Steebar exclusive pattern. In fact here is the watch. That other magazine was not around yet. Scrolling was hot at that time.

I am guessing a carpet to wipe feet off when going out. Hope you are not standing on it when cutting. The static can hurt you and cause jumping. Or I maybe way off.

No need for a machine to roll coins. Many of the pen turners use a dapping block and a transfer pin and use a arbor press to bend. This same method is used to make watch part pens which are pens with a watch dial and all the little gears in them. People take watches apart and bend the pieces around a tube and cast in clear resin. They look cool. http://ec-i21.geccdn.net/site/images/n-picgroup/WMH_333620.jpg Here is one of my pens. I had a person over at IAP make the coin. I applied the copper braiding and he cast in clear resin. It is a scrolled NJ quarter. He has done 1/2 dollars also and they work very well. You need to thin because the thickness needs to be less than the kit parts shoulder in order so it does not get exposed when turned. You need it covered with the resin.

The more I read about some of these record cuttings the more I read about people laser cutting them. It would be understandable for some of the ones I have seen are so detail oriented it would be tough to cut with a scroll saw safely. Again the more I read the go to method seems to use a cnc rotary cutter with a 1/16" mill end bit. Must be able to write code for the pattern which leaves me out.

That would work when using those type hangers with the motors. I have now seen some people just take a block of wood and cut a slot on an angle half way through and place the record in that. You could glue it in also. I was thinking maybe that method or may try to use an easel type picture frame holder such as the one I make for my Irish Claddagh clocks. Will see when I start doing these. Maybe someone else has some ideas. Thanks

If they do it probably is quart cans, not gallon cans. Yet a little goes a long way. I am a dipper so I pour a couple gallons in a large container and dip the projects. I then pour back into the cans for next time. Has worked well for me for over 35 years.

Those that are into scrolling vinyl records, what are you using to display them?? Did you make a base of some sort or are you hanging on the wall some way. Are you making into clocks and again how are you displaying?? Any photos would be a great help. Thanks in advance.

I did the same thing. It was one of those deals too good to let go. Paid $150 and it was brand new. Got it when Home Depot was selling them out. Made a great deal on it with stand and it too is a back up for me. With blades and all it would definitely be worth it. That is if it works well. 30 hours is not even breaking in time.