JTTHECLOCKMAN

I think the latest thing is their CNC machine for making parts is leaking oil now. before some part for it was broke and waited for it to be milled by some outside source. The only place in the entire state from what I am reading.

I hear everything you are saying and you are invested in this now so you might as well see how it plays out but if you are still here in May still saying the same things we need to send a doctor to your house to see if you have a pulse.

I can not add any valuable data on this because I have not used the EX with the tilting head or any saw with a tilting head so can not compare. I have done many projects on both my RBI and Hegner and in fact my Hegner is set up to a tilt that I leave because I like cutting the angles on it. I have no problem using the flat table and yes my angles are not as severe as some are doing and that maybe a reason I find no problem. I use to do a ton of those fold down baskets for many years. Man my Hegner got a work out then and not one was a problem because just like anything you do you get the feel for it and it becomes second nature. The concept seems to be a good one with the tilting head but why has not many other saws gone to that design?? I suggest if you have the opportunity to test drive both ways would be the best way to make that decision. Kevin brings up the point about tables moving by just bumping, well that is a thing with every saw on the market because you are pivoting on one center point. If the carriage has 2 points of contact then you have a better chance of holding that table true. That is why you do not stack weighted items on a scrollsaw table. especially to one side. I have no problem with my RBI saws locking down or returning to 90 degrees after I have cut a tilted project. But I am aware of the top be able to get out of alignment. The same thing with the Dewalt or Hegner.

Yes Kevin has not complained because he has other saws to fall back on. But what about that person wanting his first saw and saved to buy one of these and gets this. What do you think his thoughts are. We do not know what the other 18 are saying and they too maybe as patient. Who knows what they are saying to friends who maybe wanting to try this. This is not a good look for the company. Remember this is not the same people that made the saws back years ago so we are not talking the same product line here and maybe the saw was good years ago the jury may still be out on this group and if this is any indication of what to expect when things go wrong maybe not a good look. They should be keeping the people informed and seems they are not because it is Kevin that says he is doing the calling. I agree about the money thing that is a no-no in my book. They should offer some compensation to these people such as free shipping or something. They are buying a high $$$ saw and that mainly is because they are built one at a time and not because the parts are any better. It is the labor driving the price. To not be able to stock saws or parts for future sales just does not make sense. They will be right back in the same boat if and when they get this cleared up and something else goes down. They should have enough data to know what saws sell the best and what parts need replacing the most and stock these to some degree. I know stock on the shelf does not make you money but it can because you can answer the call when needed but go through this and who knows how many sales you lost. I hope when all said and done the product they ship out has been tested and there is no further recalls or problems and Kevin and everyone else who buys one has many happy hours sawing on it.

No room to store spare parts, no room to store spare saws, Take the money and sit on it and now you wait for me is all bad business practices and I do not want to hear about small businesses. Don't get into the business. They have other businesses too from what I am reading so not sure about this small farmer thing. I would not have the patience for that mess. I am glad I do not need another saw. Yes the older RBI saw was great but skeptical about this mess now. Kevin I wish you and the other 8 people all the best with their new saws.

We have a railroad bridge over here they are tearing down. Anyone want to buy it??

Is the tension released all the way when lowered?? That is what tightens the blade.

A little trick I do when sharpening tools on a grinder is to use a sharpie and color the end. Then lightly hit the edges and look to see if my grinding is at the right angle. I flatten screws of all sizes on a belt sander.

I do it all the time and never had a problem. It is called light touch. If you have a belt sander you can do it on that too. File could round over the bolt just as well.

I would hit the screws on the grinder before I chuck them.

Is always a good idea to sand the ends of the setscrew and also the thumbscrew once in a while because they do get slick and shinny from metal on metal contact. You can completely take them out or run some sandpaper through the slot where the blade goes.

Hello Bill and welcome to the site. Good luck in your search for that saw. just my opinion, all saws will have some vibration and depending how you set them up can have an effect to decrease this. Of course some are worse than others and within each brand and size can be some worse than others. But you can safely say the bigger $$$ saws will be better tuned. But again even they have that speed that creates harmonics and it causes some vibration. We scrollers usually adjust speed to get past this. Not many people run their saws wide open. I run mine a little past half way on the dial. lets me control the cut better plus on the RBI it does have that vibration thing at top speed. Good luck.

All look good. Should be sellers.

All true. Good luck and we are all waiting on your report of the saw.

http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/mineral-oil-as-a-wood-finish/

All spot on points mentioned by Jollyred.

Maybe a good way to keep tract of how long a piece takes but i see no advantage to know run time on a saw. That saw should outlast you. I would not want to tell a person buying the saw how much time is on it. Can work against you even though it maybe low number. really do not know how hard that saw was worked within that time frame. Alot different cutting thicker 3D projects than thin fret work. But i guess for your own knowledge maybe it is good. Just an opinion.

My use for lemon oil is as a carrier for when I am polishing out a project. That project usually has some exotic wood that needs no top coat and just needs to be polished to high rich shine. Along with mineral oil it does not last long. In a few days the oil is dried and the wood looks dry and feels dry. I do not like that look.

Holly is the whitest of white woods but tough to get boards of it that are pure white. Depending when it is harvested will show and most boards have grey running through it. I use it for pen making and small accent projects and many times if I want truest white I will bleach the wood using wood bleach. Many people use Aspen in place of Holly. You may want to check it out. This wood is extremely white also but it too is not cheap. You can bleach that too to make it even lighter. Then you can do the stain process and get some white stain and use a maple or other light colored wood.

I worked on these and 5 different pens which I entered in separate contests too and started about the third week in Dec after my shows. I finished in time Feb 15 with all projects to get them in time for the contests. So not working on every day but pretty regular that was about how much time.

Not many rules, just that it has to be hand made and no CNC or laser work. Can not show it anytime through other sites or anywhere before the contest. Can not use a pen you made which can give it away of who made it before end of contest. Have to be a member in good standings of the site. Any theme or design is acceptable. These are judged by the membership over a few day period. 140 people judged this. Have to say I agree with you on the look of his. Not sure what he was going for but what it shows is all the different techniques that can be done on a lathe with all the various turnings. Hopefully he will explain his project more in the coming days there. Thanks for your kind words.

I thought I would show a couple projects I entered into contests on the IAP penturning forum. Happy to say they took second and third. I just wanted to say thanks to 2 people who helped with the patterns and that is Tim ( WORBLER ) and Jim (JIMERN ) Thanks for the great patterns. This is a little lengthy but here they are with a bit of description. The first one is a pen display box based on the IAP (International Association of Penturners ) It is constructed in a diamond shape with birdseye maple and blue acrylic strips. The logo on the lid is cut from blue, black and white acrylic using the scrollsaw. It is inlayed into the lid. Inside the box the pen holder was sanded and crowned and flocked with a beautiful med blue flocking material as well as the underside of the lid. It can accommodate any size pen. The lid is a friction fit lift off design.The box was finished with 10 coats of clear gloss lacquer. Thanks for looking. The second project is a pen display stand and it too carries the IAP theme. The stand was constructed from curly maple and black acrylic strips for accents . A clock insert was added along with a base that is filled with blue coral acrylic pieces and encased in Liquid Diamonds epoxy resin. When looking down into this it really is a nice feature. Too tough to photograph. On the top sits the pen holders in the shape as 2 fountain pen nibs made from polished brass and maple. It can hold any size pen. The background clock holder was scrolled out and back painted with black paint. The entire stand was then finished with 10 coats of clear gloss lacquer. Thanks for looking. Again thanks for the pattern makers help.

That is a stunning piece. Job well done.

Very nice cutting. Just curious why you did not glue it before you finished it?? If I did the procedure you did then I would resort to epoxy and use the dabbing of the sponge method. I would have glued first and then used Titebond II and again sponge method.