JTTHECLOCKMAN

If you are talking to me it will be a longgggggggggggggggggggggggggg time before I get to that project if at all this year but it is on my radar and ordered the pattern and I like them and find I can make them and charge just what it takes when selling them and bet they will sell. I make things to sell these days. The projects I make for family are very few these days because I do not have much family left. I do not like doing portraits but that is a whole other thread. 400 cuts on one portrait is not my cup of tea for sure. But again to each their own but to say they take alot of material you really need to learn how to layout patterns and large clocks will test that on you.

Before you rip out and replace bearings you can try some bearing lubricant spray. I am not sure if they even make this any more but I use Sandaro bearing lubricant and have for years mainly on my router bit bearings and it is good stuff. Can't hurt to try something. Not WD40 stay far away from that stuff around bearings. I guess Bostic bought them out or something but it is the same can so not sure what happened. http://www.wurthlac.com/storefront/adhesives-lubricants/lubricants/bearing-lubricant-5-oz-/prodSDBL5.html

Use BB plywood and do not use hardwoods. I hope you all never do any large clocks because you all will freak out with the amount of wood needed there. Sorry I do not agree with you all. I am in with these type patterns. To each their own.

Wow hope you get this figured out. Sorry I do not use that saw so can not help. It was talked about in another thread how new saws and tools need tweaking when they are new and it is actually a shame that a saw comes out of a factory untested outside of plug it in and does it run. Not like these saws or any scrollsaw is that popular and in such demand. Again hope these are minor flaws that can be corrected.

Say What???

Thanks for the link. That gear one has my name all over it. I am getting that one for sure. Wish he would make one more manly too without the hearts. I may have to improvise. I left him a note maybe he will do something like that in the future.

Good luck.

My 2 cents worth. Yes the spring could be getting weak. If so take some length out of it by recutting it and putting back under the screw. Easy enough to do or find one probably in Lowes or Home Depot. Second the arm bushing could become dry and wont allow great movement. Take spring off and feel the tension on the bearing. Should be easliy moved up and down and if not then that bearings may need to be replaced. Third thing is and this could lead to your vibration thing too, is that lever handle has a tendency to float over toward the side of the arm and rubs on it. This adds resistance to that arm lifting. Even though it is metal on metal it still can wear. I will usually get a metal noise hard to describe when that happens but know what it is so just move over again and is good for many many hours again. As I said many times here before I hardly ever play with that lever and never had to replace and my saw is as old. If I change blades to a larger blade I will just nip some of the top of the blade and keep same setting. Only do I touch that lever is when I switch to very fine blades such as Jewelers blades. Also the vibration thing always check the obvious. Make sure the table nuts and bolts have not come loose. Make sure the 4 legs are sitting firmly and splayed properly. Make sure there is no small pieces of wood caught under the arms or build up of sawdust around moving points. Make sure all things are tight. Vibration can be transmitted many different ways and tough to locate. But a thorough check of things eliminates things. The people at RBI will tell you to do these things first off.

They are actually pretty quiet. Hooked to a good compressor and you are golden. I have something similar with the intention of doing work like what Roly shown but that is a long way down the wish list. But I can say I have the tool That counts on my list of tools when I pass on and the count is in.

Did it on both my Hawks and Hegner. Just made out of 1/4" plexiglass and secured with double sided tape. I still am able to use reverse tooth blades because all you need is a couple teeth for them to work like they should.

Top feeding is more a touch and feel thing and is harder to do unless you do it since you started or have for a long time. I will never be a top feeder.

I love mine. Every router bit has a safe run speed. Each good quality bit will come with a speed marked on the wrapping and some are imprinted on the bit shaft.

They all look like woodworkers. Nice job and I am sure was well appreciated. Always good to read these things.

Merry Christmas Ray and the entire family.

I love this kind of work. The detail and wood selection are well done as is the entire project. Thanks for showing.

Most routers today are interchangable platforms. I have a couple of the Bosch in your first link but do not have set up on a router table. I have a bunch of the Bosch colt routers and usually dedicate them for small specific jobs. I have a old sears craftsman router table I use when I want to do some routing outdoors to keep dirt levels in check and on that table I have a porta cable 690 router on it http://www.toolbarn.com/portercable-690lr.html/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping(BSC)&utm_keyword=portercable-690LR&utm_content=s8jR2qvs_pcrid_11075488918_pkw_product_pmt_b_pdv_c&utm_source=bing&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping(BSC)&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=09ebacf4af751ea4bc07f0d4e9f42733 But my main full size router table I have a Freud 2-1/2 HP plunge VS router. On the outdoor table the height is adjusted by turning the body and that is fine for rough work. NON variable speed, again fine for not fine work. Will never use large bits on it because it is such a small table top.But the main table is where I need both VS because of the different cuts and size bits plus it allows me to easily raise and lower the bit with a turn of a handle. The motor needs to be at least 1-1/2HP to be effective. I also have other larger routers that if I want can switch out on the table or use by hand. I love the soft start of those routers. Now here are some thoughts on routers. If you are staying in the mid size range you want one that can accept 1/2" bits and also 1/4" bits. When doing heavy cutting you want a larger shaft bit to help eliminate chatter and prevent accidental breaking of the shaft and having it fly at you. 1/4" bits are fine for small basic cuts. You always want carbide bits. Do not even look at steel bits. I like routers with soft start but not all my routers are but i know how to deal with them. Never use a foot switch on a router even though they say they are made for them. Dangerous situations happen especially when you do not shut router off. Take small bites with any router. Do not try to take entire cut off at once. Makes for a choppy cut. I can go on and on but that is it for now.

I guess there is logic in there somewhere. Good luck.

There is some thinking outside the box there. Well done and thanks for showing.

Oh got you. Thanks for the reply.

Oh I agree you are buying a quality saw and reputation of them does precede them. Can you get a lemon, well sure that is anything that has mechanical movement. The other thing is the size you chose. You have a 226 and now you have 2. I bought the first Hawk as a 226 but bought the 220 because most my cutting is not needed for the larger saw. If I occasionally do I still have the 226. What I found is the 220 more compact and less noisy. I understand your thinking and wish you good luck. Happy sawing.

Jim what are your plans with the CNC machine if you don't mind me asking??

Very nice. Do give us an honest report after you set up and run for awhile. I too need to unload my Dewalt and Hegner. I do not use them hardly any more. I also have a full size shaper I need to take apart and get out of the shop. That thing is a beast that I used only a few times. They make routers and router tables that can do just the same jobs. My furniture making days are well behind me. Have a few other things I need to sell. Just curious though why an upgraded Hawk?? You have 2 already. What more could you want from them?? I thought the Hawk was not aggressive enough for you. That saw will not do any more than what the 226 does now. If you get into playing around with moving the blade holder front and back, let us know how that goes. If you are buying for top feeding there are better options. Should be an interesting report being you have both versions and scrolled on both.

All very nice projects and you are on a roll. Hard woods do take stains and top coats better than plywood but your look on that project actually fits it well. I detect a horse theme. Many many patterns out there with this theme. Thanks for showing.

Could you possibly start this question in a new thread. This way here it gets more attention and does not detract from this one.

If it were me and I was spending that kind of money for a bandsaw I would not buy Jet. I would look at Laguna saws. Yes will be more money but you are up there already. Why do you need an 18" saw may I ask. Also would not touch a saw that large unless it had at least a 3HP motor on it.