JTTHECLOCKMAN

I use an iron

Well Bill by now then we should have that ultimate saw out there that has all the features us scroller are looking for. Can you name that saw??? Is this that saw?? Should be being the latest one on the market. Every manufacturer has their gizmos and gadgets and selling talk but in the end it still comes down to what you think will make scrolling easier for you and more enjoyable. Why has none of these companies come up with a dust collection system built into their saws. Can easily be done. They all should. Health issues are always a concern. Look at Saw Stop.

Yea guess that was silly?? Ray what makes Pegas name that high quality?? Because of the blades?? Is that the same company??

Bill displaying those projects is always a huge concern. Not only the room it takes up, but the dust collecting, and becomes more fragile with time because glue will break down from wood movement. Remember the parts used are not thick. Mostly end grain gluing too. Need to incorporate some stronger gluing techniques at least I believe that do not get mentioned in those plans. When many of those dome clocks and huge clock plans were coming out many people scaled them back and made smaller versions. Maybe an idea if you choose to do any. Good luck.

JT regarding saw designs, not to many ways you can move the blade. Understood. But just in the type of saw that Pegas is there are 4 saws all the same coming off the same assembly line with different colors on it. The blade clamping system that pegas is using is somewhat different and is available as an aftermarket thing. All in the same price group. Heck you can even throw in the Dewalt line because that was the basis of these saws too. Do we really need more saws. Well add this one to the many many many questions as to what saw to buy.

Another freaking knock-off. People can not think of new innovative ideas on their own so lets make the same saw paint it different and add a different name. Pretty red color. Goes with the green, blue and silver and black out there. Line them all up in a row and tell me the difference. Love my RBI even more now.

you can not get the working lights and whistle parts any more. I had this pattern and lost it but reordered a week ago when I was looking for trains. My project is to make one of the train models. Got a number of plans so I will sort through them and maybe tweak them abit or combine something.

Well That would seem to be the answer yes. I always use blue painters tape on every project. I only use glue sticks when I am apply another pattern on top of a pattern. Makes it easier to reposition if i need to for better alignment.

Well Kevin everyone can make that statement who ever made anything in their lives. Kevin you mentioned this a few times and it made me go look. Front of blade to front of table on Hegner 5-3/4" .Front of blade to front of table which is round on the RBI 6-1/2" Hegner is 18" and Rbi is 20" Same on 226. Now Dewalt front of blade to front of table is a wopping 8" you may want to look at those instead if that is a concern. I bring these measurements up because unless you use spiral blades all pieces come to the front so it does not matter what size your wings of the table are. This is all without any extension table tops which you can make to any size you want.I have cut 30"+ mirrors with flat blades on my 226 without a problem. I do have to stand up when cutting because unlike you I have some extra padding in the mid section.

Not sure if that was me or not but I have used that stuff on many things and it surely does work. Had some galvanized plumbing fixtures I needed to get apart and could not spin off. I soaked them with that stuff and next day no problem.

Kevin I do not think it was the same husband and wife, but I have not seen them in a long time. They got big and moved out of NJ to Pennsy some 12 or 15 years ago. They were doing big stuff and alot of things like I do. Cheaper in Pennsy. As Melanie said CNC work is an art in itself you will need to spend quality time with these. I have a feeling ornaments is what your goal is because it seems you get big orders on them and they take you away from doing other things because of the amounts and you can say what you want that gets BORING. Doing hundreds of the same thing is tough. I seen laser cutters produce ornaments out quickly. Of course you have the burn product. As far as hiring goes you can find a person or relative and pay them under the table. That is what my friends did. To me CNC is a tool but it is not a hand made finished item. Just as with lasers. Good luck with your new toys. As far as Hegner goes it is a reliable industrial based saw, made to last and work hard. I seen your work and do not see why a bigger table is a concern for you. You do not do mirrors or plaques that need support when cutting. As said Hegner is a bottom feed saw only and require a tool for inserting blade in clamp and is a bit more touchy when it comes to that. Hegners can develop a pingging sound from the solid spring in the back but it is all part of knowing the saw. There is a slight learning curve to them but a well made saw that has not changed much over the years.

Dewalt is China made too.

Boy this whole thread you talked yourself in and out of many tools. If you have you mind set on the Hawk then why bother to even look at the Hegner. It is a different saw for sure. The new Hawks have more features than the Hegner. Hegner has not changed in many years since I knew them. My Hegner I made a larger table top but I did that on my 2 RBIs also. Just curious what are you planning with the CNC?? Sounds like you want to substitute cnc with scrolling. You can make a ton more ornaments with a CNC than scrolling. I do not know anything about them so no help there. Will say this I would be lost if I did not have the woodworking tools that I have in my shop. I can create far beyond scrolling.but still hand made. If you are being overwhelmed it maybe time to hire on some help. I knew a husband and wife team that quit their jobs and became full time scrollers and started their own business. They got quite busy and hired on a young guy who did alot of the sanding for them. They did most of the cutting. In fact they were the ones that got me hooked. I never wanted to get as big as they did because I liked my job but I did start my business and did quite well back in the 90's.

I wear these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWICGMY?tag=s4343sdfd-20 have for a long time and have a few pairs scattered around the shop and even outdoors when I cut the grass or my neighbor uses that annoying leaf blower. That person is very anal he needs to get every blade of grass or every leaf off the sidewalk. usually running for over an hour. 50 X100 lot. Really is annoying. I never wear anything with music because I feel it is a huge safety hazard. You are drowning one frequency out but blasting so many others into your ears. People just do not get it. But to each their own and then you read these posts. I can not do two things at once. Concentrate on machinery in the shop and listen to music. Just me I guess. Worked in construction for 43 years so there always was noise of all different types. Use to use the foam throw away plugs and they worked well. hearing is still good to this day. Eyes not so much. Knees and shoulder nope not good. Back lets not go there.

I like the design aspect to these. Something different on the market. Wonder what it would look like if there was a mix of woods. What is the wood you use over there?? I have to try some of these patterns. I took a quick look on your etsy site. Is that the only place you sell?? Are there any examples of any other colored wood or painted woods by you or other artisans using your patterns that you have to show?? You seem to use this light colored wood and that maybe for a reason. Thanks.

I like this project. This came out well. Tricky doing things like this because of the old days the heat of the light bulb caused warping and misshaping. Now with the LED lamps less heat and more of this is possible.

This is good advice and I would like to add to that statement in that finish those scraps the same way you do the final piece in that sand to same grit. Sanding a piece can change the look of a piece very easily. The higher the grit the more closed the wood grain is and thus lets less stain in or finish sealer.

Ray many people use denatured alcohol to get a feel for the color the wood will be if oiled. Some people will use mineral spirits. If you use rubbing alcohol it has more water in it and could raise the grain of the woods. I won't go into the many varieties of basic shellac, dry, liquid, flakes, wax unwaxed,. But again if using for food you may want to consider it for your final finish. Good luck and if there are other questions I can help with I will try.

Ray I meant no offense about the point of we discussed this. I thought you took that advise and went ahead to finish it and it was done. Ray there are so many oil finishes out there and on top of that there is various versions of each. Just because it says tung oil it may not be 100% tung oil and have additives. I can not go into them all because that would take days. I suggest you do a google search such as this one and it explains some differences. http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/understanding-oil-wax-finishes/ Again it is not fair for us to tell you what to do and how to finish. I told you my preference and I would use Danish oil alone. You will not want a sheen with the end grain cuts like that and whatever sheen you get on the flat top is a bonus. If it is to be used for food then you may want to consider other food safe finishes. All though when Danish oil is dried and cured it is food safe. Trying to spray even coats in all those nooks and crannies will result in pooling of finish I guarantee it. But if you want a quick light coat then have at it,. This is all I have for you on this subject. Sorry.

You won't. 1/8" smallest. There are some China sets out there that claim they have a 1/16" brad point bit but I would like to see it and do not believe it. Big name tool manufacturers do not make them.

Not so much a recall but like with cars there were bulletins out to dealers and repair shops about the Dewalt 788 when they were changing from Canada to China. They knew about the table hole being off center, they knew about the table not locking down, they knew about the clunking noise, they knew about the table not being level front to back. You take that saw to any Dewalt repair shop and they knew right away. RBI had problems with their motors and thus so many versions were made over the years and they knew but there was no repair shops for them so that was an in house problem that they knew about. 2 saws that I know about.

No I do not usually. Clocks do not get handled much and Danish oil has enough poly in to seal the wood so it is not needing protection above that. Now if I am looking for a glossier shine then I will spray lacquer. Either water base or nitro. I need to add something though I usually will polish the finished product if it is flat with Watco satin wood polish to give it even a nicer sheen. Those boxes and that type clocks of course I can not do that. Those just have Danish oil on them and they look great. Basically what are you protecting from?? Top coating is just a look. Protection would be if used outdoors or if project is used in wet areas. Finger prints that is nothing to be concerned with in projects we do.

You should always back up your project with a scrap piece when drilling any holes. Prevents blow outs as long as the piece is secured to the backer.

Ray I thought we walked this path before and you shown that same basket. I agree with alot of what Bill said. I will again probably repeating things but. The difference between Danish oil and BLO and mineral spirits is that Danish oil has drier in it along with Polyurethane. BLO does not. unless you add it. But when you do then driers come into play because the ingredients dry at different levels and times. Manufacturers have this stuff calculated so you are better to buy original. Many companies make Danish oil or the like and call it something different. The final look is exactly the same with the 2 except that with Danish oil there is more of a sheen because of the poly. I love the look and that is why I use it all the time. With BLO no sheen at all. Dull finish but will enhance the grains of wood and add a warm yellow color to woods. With light woods like maple that can be OK but if you want a clear finish than stay away from all oils. You want a waterbase product. But now you get into grain raising and that will be a pain when talking a project like you show. Spray shellac can be used but again no sheen unless you use many coats and to spray in all those nooks and crannies, that would not be my choice. Top coating. Either Danish oil or BLO the use of poly or lacquer can be used providing and this is big that it is completely dry and cured. Not just dried but cured. I love lacquer because it leaves wood looking like wood and not plastic filmed. Again I do not use shellac for a finish. I use it for a seal coat or a barrier coat betweens dissimilar finishes. Dipping is the easiest finish to apply and that is why I like Danish oil. Can not screw it up. Small container and brush on is all you need to do but make sure it gets in all nooks. I have Danish oil by gallons so I pour in a tub and dip real easy. Not sure what else to say. Here are some keepsake boxes I make that use that same technique of ring stacking and they were all dipped in Danish oil and I use all sorts of woods including maple and oak. Also some clocks with that design and yellow heart is used alot. People love the finish.

It is a drug. I hear you.