JTTHECLOCKMAN

Never saw a dimple in any FD blades that I use and Mike never mentioned this to me for I use to test his blades for him. I do the run the finger down the blade takes 1/2 second. Not cutting into my time for cutting. I sand all 4 ends of the blades every time too. #5 FD silver reverse best blade on the market in my eyes. I use that blade more than any other blade. Buy them by the gross.

Start with the easy ones. Yes to your danish oil problem. I leave it in the ca untill I am ready to dip my project. Then using a funnel I pour it back in the can after use ready for next time. I clean the container out with acetone and wipe fairly well. Really does not matter if you do not fully clean it because it is a designated container for this purpose only. The film will dry hard so no big deal. Table yes to some wax the table and a good wax is johnson's paste wax made for wood products. I have added an auxillary table to mine to make the work surface larger and made from 1/4" plexiglass you can get at home centers. I wax that on rare occasions but it stay pretty slick. Do not want it too slick. You want a bit of drag to control your cuts better. Be careful waxing any table that has texture to it. Finally you should have to set the back knob once with each different size blade and the front tensioner should release enough tension to take blade out and replace again for next hole. If not then the tension lever needs adjusting and I have no knowledge on that saw so someone else can help there. Good luck.

Congrats and good luck. Hope to see many projects come off that saw over the years. Enjoy it in good health. Yhey sure have not changed design much over all these years. I guess when you have a proven product you stick with it.

What blade clamping hassle??? They supply a place to hold the clamp just like RBI to insert blade lower clamp. There is a slot that runs down the entire front of the table so you can pull the blade down as far as you want when tilting piece to insert blade in hole and the upper clamp has a quick tension lever like RBI. If you want to top feed you need a way to hold the arm down. RBI and Hegner saws are the cadillacs of saws on the market . They are a professional saw built to last a life time unlike a Dewalt. Thus the price differences. Blade changing can not be simplier on both the RBI and Hegner, Tons of room under the table to get your hands there no matter how big your hands are. I totally disagree with Kevins assessment on agressive cutting with a Dewalt over an RBI or Hegner but that is my opinion and am allowed to have it. I have all 3 saws and sawed on all 3 so have some experience here too. Dan you are going to love the saw. Just like with any saw there is a feeling out process but once dialed in you will love it. Good luck with your new toy.

Now that is different. Looks good. Thanks for showing.

I missed them too. All nice projects for sure. Can not help with album. I never got mine up and running here either since the change over.

Ray you got the saw cheap and other extras as I said go to sell it if you do not like it and you made your money back many times over. Bite the bullet. Any backyard fix will deter the next buyer. What is the saying penny wise dollar foolish.

scrollsaw no sanding. no tearout. Use a reverse tooth blade. Use of a router require a reference point and that would more than likely require a hole or doublesided tape to a master. No time saved there and only as accurate as the master cut. But as mentioned give it a try and see what you think.

stack 2 but I would not even do that. As I said 5 minute cut at best.

not enough air and had to get a larger hose and that did not help much. For me a waste of money because back in the day that was the recommended fix mentioned on alot on forums. Now I would just get the bellow. As I said selling feature if you do not like it.

That is about a 5 minute cut on a scrollsaw (backer) If you are making the same backer all the time stack cut a couple easy to do. You will not get the accuracy with a bandsaw that you do with a scrollsaw because it cuts too fast. Very nice clean sharp lines cutting.

http://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/band-saw-blades/accessories/cool-blocks-band-saw-blade-guides/ I like them too.

Again Ray I hate telling people what to do so I will tell you my experience and recommend that you forgo the aquarium pump and buy the bellow. I tried an aquarium pump back when I had my first saw which was a 2 speed Dremel saw. It did not work well. Take a look at the bellow maybe a little silicone can seal a leak if not cracked too bad. Buying it would be money well spent and you will get your money back providing the saw runs well. Make sure you get the key for the blades and any extra holders.

Had a Hegner and still do before my RBI saws and I have to say I must be the luckiest guy on the planet because not one problem with the Hegner or RBI saws. No blade breakage no slipping or vibration. Beautiful professional saws. Now the Dewalt is another story. Yes I got a deal I could not pass up on but if i were to buy today I would pass up on it. Not my cup of tea blade usage wise. Never get the blade in the same spot all the time thus the constant tension changes. Hegner and RBI same all the time. Less stress on the blade. I learned something today looking at the Hegner site, this saw existed. Now that is some saw and price. http://www.advmachinery.com/products/polymax-3-8-speed-industrial-precision-scroll-saw Iggy needs this saw. Evidently that link did not work. This one should. I suggest going to Advance Machinery site and reading the tech info on your saw.

Wow I just checked some of the patterns they offer and alot of them are from The Berry Basket and do they bring back memories. I made so many of those over the years. Shelfs ,clocks, military which I made into clocks and still make them, kids furniture. Oh the good old days. They are part of the reason I got into this.

Won't tell you what to do but will say I make many items with that technique of ring stacking and the only glue I ever used was Titebond original or Titebond II Never had one come apart yet. CA is too brittle for that stuff. Just my opinion. Good luck.

Fantastic work and shows alot of patience. Glad that they were enjoyed and now will continue to be seen and enjoyed by faithful. They have held up well and you should be proud. I have several of these type patterns that I promised myself I want to try before I get out of here but who knows. Never know what each day brings. Thanks for showing.

I believe MDF gets the reputation it deserves. It is a manmade product with adhesives and finely ground products and other ingredients. I have no idea what Australia MDF is compared to what is made and imported in the states. All dust is bad for the lungs and that includes all woods, concrete and even ordinary house dust. Precautions prevail in the use or the proximity you are to this stuff. Dust control is very important when using MDF. Yes it is stable and very flat because it is a man made product that does not move but will warp. It is used here as well in the cabinet industry but the machines and dust control that is used is far superior to what the homeowner uses. Once painted and sealed it is fine but if broken then you now exposed the same risks again. It is a heavy product so that must be taken in consideration. If worked in a small enclosed shop that dust will get on all things and be the enemy it is for a long time because it is stirred up again and again. Containing at the source is the best way to control. I do not use it and have on occasion for odd projects. Too many other things that can be used and the dangers are in the shop all the time and if there is one possibility I can eliminate a danger I sure will try. This is one reason I try to do all my hand sanding out doors all year long. Just one factor I can at least cut down on. Your projects all came out well and look great. I am sure they are being enjoyed by many. Keep up the good work and thanks for showing. But work safe.

Well Ray I can add some insight to this question if I know what you are using it for. In the Pen turning world CA is a highly used as a finishing top coat that is super clear and hard and durable and that is why pen turners love it. The accelerator is used quite often by some which enables them to apply multiple coats in one sitting. I do not like it because I feel it makes the CA brittle but with that said you can not mix accelerators with any CA. You should buy the accelerator specific to that CA. There are many types and brands of CA on the market and all claim to be the best. As far as types and viscosity goes, there is thin, med, and thick. There is flexible CA which is gaining traction in the pen turning world because pen blanks are so thin and being wood it still moves no matter how you seal it. There is odorless which is a bit more expensive but for those that either have an allergy for CA fumes (they are potent) or you develop one over time. What helps is a good ventilation system when working with CA. No not all CA glue is the same but again depends on what you are doing then maybe any brand or viscosity will be good. Again the purpose of the accelerator is to have the CA dry faster. By the way the spray can version is much better than the spray bottles. It is a finer mist which again is important in the pen world. In your world it may not make a difference. I have been using Satellite City CA for a long time and love it. But I use it for segmenting and finishing pens only. I never use it in woodworking. Too many better glues there. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=satellite+city+ca+glue&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78477712763671&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_30hb6owwie_e I buy mine direct from the company and get a bit cheaper that way. If you have more specific questions I probably can get more detailed.

Good luck Iggy. $500 on a saw is no chump change. One bad instance on an RBI and you are done with one of the premiere saws on the market that is a true professional saw. Excalibur is basically the same saw. Maybe they use better parts. You really do not hear too many bad things about them. Dewalt being so many people own them you here all the horror stories and they sure do not seem to last before maintenance needs to be done. But anyway again good luck.

Iggy when arre you going to finally step up to a real saw??? I bet you would never wear out a RBI or Hegner or even a Excalibur . You keep playing in the mid range area when you clearly are a professional scroller and need a workhorse. You can probably fix those saws and that can become a hobby.

Good deal Jim. I believe the long lines are a thing of the past. I believe that is overhype these days. More people wait for cyber Monday for sales and yes more crowds in stores but that is a good thing for the economy. It is the shopping season and you will see crowds now. Electronics is always the biggest draw. Those are the stores to be aware of. But the prices they are getting for big screen TVs today just makes you want one. Amazing where we have come with them. I went to Lowes and picked up 2 Craftsman 16 gal shop vacs for $40 each. They had plenty but I went early and there was no crowd at all. Normal crowd. My last Craftsman shop vac just died a couple weeks ago from the abuse I put it through over 20 years. I like these vacs because it has a 2" hose and that matches up to the dust ports on a couple sanders tools I use. Perfect timing for me and great deal. Reg. price $99

That is golden. That saw is a money maker. Well built and will last a life time. Good call on that. VS too. man that is perfect.

I do not have that saw or know anything about it but when you said you use to bring the Hawk out of the basement. Many years ago I use to do the same thing when I wanted to scroll out doors. I eventually got another Hawk and left the one in the shed but that all stopped. It use to be great to set the saw under a tree on a nice spring day and just scroll for hours. Different perspective than scrolling under man made lights. Now all is in the basement shop.

This is always good news. Good job.