JTTHECLOCKMAN

http://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/band-saw-blades/accessories/cool-blocks-band-saw-blade-guides/ I like them too.

Again Ray I hate telling people what to do so I will tell you my experience and recommend that you forgo the aquarium pump and buy the bellow. I tried an aquarium pump back when I had my first saw which was a 2 speed Dremel saw. It did not work well. Take a look at the bellow maybe a little silicone can seal a leak if not cracked too bad. Buying it would be money well spent and you will get your money back providing the saw runs well. Make sure you get the key for the blades and any extra holders.

Had a Hegner and still do before my RBI saws and I have to say I must be the luckiest guy on the planet because not one problem with the Hegner or RBI saws. No blade breakage no slipping or vibration. Beautiful professional saws. Now the Dewalt is another story. Yes I got a deal I could not pass up on but if i were to buy today I would pass up on it. Not my cup of tea blade usage wise. Never get the blade in the same spot all the time thus the constant tension changes. Hegner and RBI same all the time. Less stress on the blade. I learned something today looking at the Hegner site, this saw existed. Now that is some saw and price. http://www.advmachinery.com/products/polymax-3-8-speed-industrial-precision-scroll-saw Iggy needs this saw. Evidently that link did not work. This one should. I suggest going to Advance Machinery site and reading the tech info on your saw.

Wow I just checked some of the patterns they offer and alot of them are from The Berry Basket and do they bring back memories. I made so many of those over the years. Shelfs ,clocks, military which I made into clocks and still make them, kids furniture. Oh the good old days. They are part of the reason I got into this.

Won't tell you what to do but will say I make many items with that technique of ring stacking and the only glue I ever used was Titebond original or Titebond II Never had one come apart yet. CA is too brittle for that stuff. Just my opinion. Good luck.

Fantastic work and shows alot of patience. Glad that they were enjoyed and now will continue to be seen and enjoyed by faithful. They have held up well and you should be proud. I have several of these type patterns that I promised myself I want to try before I get out of here but who knows. Never know what each day brings. Thanks for showing.

I believe MDF gets the reputation it deserves. It is a manmade product with adhesives and finely ground products and other ingredients. I have no idea what Australia MDF is compared to what is made and imported in the states. All dust is bad for the lungs and that includes all woods, concrete and even ordinary house dust. Precautions prevail in the use or the proximity you are to this stuff. Dust control is very important when using MDF. Yes it is stable and very flat because it is a man made product that does not move but will warp. It is used here as well in the cabinet industry but the machines and dust control that is used is far superior to what the homeowner uses. Once painted and sealed it is fine but if broken then you now exposed the same risks again. It is a heavy product so that must be taken in consideration. If worked in a small enclosed shop that dust will get on all things and be the enemy it is for a long time because it is stirred up again and again. Containing at the source is the best way to control. I do not use it and have on occasion for odd projects. Too many other things that can be used and the dangers are in the shop all the time and if there is one possibility I can eliminate a danger I sure will try. This is one reason I try to do all my hand sanding out doors all year long. Just one factor I can at least cut down on. Your projects all came out well and look great. I am sure they are being enjoyed by many. Keep up the good work and thanks for showing. But work safe.

Well Ray I can add some insight to this question if I know what you are using it for. In the Pen turning world CA is a highly used as a finishing top coat that is super clear and hard and durable and that is why pen turners love it. The accelerator is used quite often by some which enables them to apply multiple coats in one sitting. I do not like it because I feel it makes the CA brittle but with that said you can not mix accelerators with any CA. You should buy the accelerator specific to that CA. There are many types and brands of CA on the market and all claim to be the best. As far as types and viscosity goes, there is thin, med, and thick. There is flexible CA which is gaining traction in the pen turning world because pen blanks are so thin and being wood it still moves no matter how you seal it. There is odorless which is a bit more expensive but for those that either have an allergy for CA fumes (they are potent) or you develop one over time. What helps is a good ventilation system when working with CA. No not all CA glue is the same but again depends on what you are doing then maybe any brand or viscosity will be good. Again the purpose of the accelerator is to have the CA dry faster. By the way the spray can version is much better than the spray bottles. It is a finer mist which again is important in the pen world. In your world it may not make a difference. I have been using Satellite City CA for a long time and love it. But I use it for segmenting and finishing pens only. I never use it in woodworking. Too many better glues there. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=satellite+city+ca+glue&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78477712763671&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_30hb6owwie_e I buy mine direct from the company and get a bit cheaper that way. If you have more specific questions I probably can get more detailed.

Good luck Iggy. $500 on a saw is no chump change. One bad instance on an RBI and you are done with one of the premiere saws on the market that is a true professional saw. Excalibur is basically the same saw. Maybe they use better parts. You really do not hear too many bad things about them. Dewalt being so many people own them you here all the horror stories and they sure do not seem to last before maintenance needs to be done. But anyway again good luck.

Iggy when arre you going to finally step up to a real saw??? I bet you would never wear out a RBI or Hegner or even a Excalibur . You keep playing in the mid range area when you clearly are a professional scroller and need a workhorse. You can probably fix those saws and that can become a hobby.

Good deal Jim. I believe the long lines are a thing of the past. I believe that is overhype these days. More people wait for cyber Monday for sales and yes more crowds in stores but that is a good thing for the economy. It is the shopping season and you will see crowds now. Electronics is always the biggest draw. Those are the stores to be aware of. But the prices they are getting for big screen TVs today just makes you want one. Amazing where we have come with them. I went to Lowes and picked up 2 Craftsman 16 gal shop vacs for $40 each. They had plenty but I went early and there was no crowd at all. Normal crowd. My last Craftsman shop vac just died a couple weeks ago from the abuse I put it through over 20 years. I like these vacs because it has a 2" hose and that matches up to the dust ports on a couple sanders tools I use. Perfect timing for me and great deal. Reg. price $99

That is golden. That saw is a money maker. Well built and will last a life time. Good call on that. VS too. man that is perfect.

I do not have that saw or know anything about it but when you said you use to bring the Hawk out of the basement. Many years ago I use to do the same thing when I wanted to scroll out doors. I eventually got another Hawk and left the one in the shed but that all stopped. It use to be great to set the saw under a tree on a nice spring day and just scroll for hours. Different perspective than scrolling under man made lights. Now all is in the basement shop.

This is always good news. Good job.

Same to you and all here at the best scroll sawing site on the net. Be safe and do not get lost in all those after sales.

By the way Kevin you can buy just about any wood dowels. Over the years I bought walnut, cherry, paduk, maple, rosewood, oak and a few others. Now that I have a lathe if i need something special I just spin it.

There are so many ideas you can make doing drink coasters and the sky is the limit. My suggestion for this group is the walnut base with maple dowels. I would make the base small enough so that the coasters fit on a diagonal and not parallel to the base. In other words all corners of the coasters fit between 2 dowels and hang off the base. You could have used one dowel in the center and drilled center holes in the coasters and stack that way. That is a good way if making round coasters in the future. That wood is indeed Bubinga. It will darken over time.

Lebron is dead on. Nice work all around.

I prefer Danish oil and the dipping method as well. But if I am top coating it is always with Lacquer and not poly. With lacquer no need to sand between coats and dries quickly so adding coats can all be done in a day. I have been using satin alot these days but have done things with gloss as well. I agree about the sanding but I only go to 220 grit and find this to do well for me. Good luck.

Sorry wrong post

Erv so true man. Mother nature made that material and it has a mind of its own. That is why in furniture building you have to compensate for wood movement at all times. No different in what we do too. When doing fret work you do release some of the internal stress though so that helps some.

It all will become so easy you could do it in your sleep. Even if you walk away for awhile it comes right back to you. You start to learn all the little tricks too and as Ray said take the pattern off and no one sees the lines any more. Looking good.

I can see that Kevin. Do it a few times and it become second nature though. Like anything, practice is needed. Ray makes a very good point about drilling entry hole on the same angle as cutting or else the beginning of the cut will get all goobered up. Good point Ray.

It adds that personal touch and it gives your product some showmanship if that is the correct word. Shows you care in what you are doing. I always include my business card for any item I sell but have to say in all the years I have been doing this I bet I can count on one hand that card had a play in a sale. I have people pick up my cards at shows all the time and ask myself I wonder what they actually do with them because they go onto the next vendor and do the same. But they are out there. 1000's of them

This is basically what I was saying and I agree with Bill. I also do the double bevel cutting style and can tell you even your sideward pressure can make a difference when cutting because what happens you start to overcompensate because the table is leaning and you are not used to it and want to try to straighten up but you should not and let the blade do the cutting and just steer the wood. I use doublesided tape to hold the pieces together. I do not do much of this any more but it does make for some nice projects.