JTTHECLOCKMAN

It is one of the main reasons I stopped taking custom orders. for the money and the headache it comes down to not worth the effort. Like what I make or move on. I have made that clock before and I usually put a hunters insert in it. That is why I like to use many different inserts. I use to get many from different sources but Wildwood designs is where I usually went for bulk buys because I was able to mix and match. Not sure any more that they merged with Cherry tree. Not even sure what inserts they are selling today.

I have been using this for quite some time and have had no problems with it at all. http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K07010-11-Ounce-All-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B000GLG7I2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521256977&sr=8-13&keywords=spray+adhesive

Oh I am guilty of the do a search thing on the IAP forum and get called out on it all the time and I have taken a step back from that forum many times because I do not like the attitude that gets taken right away and from newbies. My point there and is as well here is and I can not for the life of me seem to get this point across without ruffling feathers so here it goes. I mention do a search and it seems that those words are just taboo in todays society. As I said everyone is in such a hurry and you see prime examples on the road. But do a search is not meant to degrade anyone but what it does is gets you more in depth answers. As on IAP the same questions get asked sometimes 2, 3 times in the same week and it does get annoying and yes you can overlook it but enough already. When a question gets asked repeatedly the answers get shorter and shorter and many facts are left out. But if you do a search for that question you can read at your own leisure all the previous answers and within there maybe some more in detail answers. That is all it is and yes I understand some sites the search feature is a chore to understand. I get all that. But before you get all balled up look at it from both sides. I will take it even further. When a question gets asked, many people try to give their best response and that response is to their particular experience. There are many ways to do something and many of these are not wrong. But within an answer many times details are left out either because we assume they are just basic knowhow or something that is abit dangerous to try to explain in some typed words. This is why I refrain from giving electrical advice. being an electrician for over 40 years I have gotten to see many things and do many things that come natural to me but not to a layman and this happens in all fields and scrolling is the same. I turn on a lathe and again many things can be unsafe to someone who does not do it often. I say take the information you get here and use that as a tool to further your knowledge but do not use that to be gospel for what we do. Do not stop at the responses you get in your post. look further. This site is fortunate to have alot of very good forums that can break things down. Use them and DO A SEARCH.

Now Jes I am not sure why you brought this up, but if you are referring to my post reply to your question http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/28508-looks-like-price-wars-for-saws-advice-needed/ where in it I mention the statement "You have been here long enough and seen these discussions before." You are taking it out of context. This happens many times on many forums when someone reads something or a set of words that does not sit right with them they get annoyed. Remember one thing when someone answers your post or anyone's post it is a set of typed words. There is no pause for effect, no highlighting of a specific word, or no way to show word deflection because you can not hear that person's response, only read it. We are not authors here. If you are pointing that spotlight at me remember this, I try my best to answer questions to the best of my ability and being you have over 400 posts here you have been here long enough to see some of the answers given more than once. The topic about different scrollsaws comes up a million times and it gets answered mainly the same way. My point in that response I gave you there, was that all you are getting is opinions and you now have to take those and try to decipher if they help you. We can not tell you THIS IS THE SAW YOU MUST BUY!! I believe today's society has become so thinned skinned it really is causing problems. If I offended you in anyway it was not my intention. As Kevin said we are not professionals and I fit that category well and I learn everyday not only shop related things but life things as well. But I have been doing this for over 35 years and hopefully my experience can help others some small way and that is why I answer questions. No I do not answer all questions and no I do not respond to every item shown in the bragging section and no I do not respond to many sections of this forum because either they do not interest me or I do not have the time. We all were beginners at one time and I get that but many times people do not take the time and do some searching on their own. I know from my own experience that is one way I find out more things than just posting a question. Again do not read into this statement please keep asking questions and please keep adding your thoughts to others questions. I like to share what I can if i can and I am sure so do many others here. Some are more vocal than others but that is human nature. So again if you are referring to my response to you I meant no ill effects from it.

Like that title. I can relate for sure.

Right up my alley I love it. Great job.

Have the same pattern and plan on taking it up a notch. On my list for projects this year. Nice job with it.

small motor oil it is a light weight oil. Home Depot carries a blue and red can. 20w https://3inone.com/products/motor-oil/

Here is the thing, I am guilty of this too. You can come to a forum and ask which saw or which tool is the best but all you get is opinions and usually they are from someone who has a particular saw. It does not say that every saw is right for everyone. Some people are bottom feeder as some are top feeders. Each saw has its pros and cons and that goes for all saws. You can listen to others but if you have at any possibility to actually get up close to each saw and take them for a test drive it can help in your decision. Any one of those saws as well as many others will cut wood and do it well. It has been talked about here how there are certain saws that are just built for production but they come with a price tag. The motors used and the bearings and parts are higher grade and again it is reflected in the price. The saws you mention fall in the mid-range price areana and that is all they are mid-range saws. There are better saws out there as there are worse saws out there. You have been here long enough and seen these discussions before. There is a forum here that discusses different saws. Those saws all use the same parallel link arm system and bet they all come from the same factory. Attach a name or color and you charge different prices. Get into the Hegners and RBIs of the world and they stand alone and no clones are made of them. Why are the mid range saws cloned it is because that is what most people can afford simple as that. Same with lower end saws. Too many are cloned and from the same factory. Why because that price range appeals to even more people. I remember when I was looking at saws the woodworking shows that tour the country were the prime place to see up close and give a test drive on not only saws but any tool available. Over the years these shows have diminished and you do not see that different companies showing up. That is how I bought many of the tools in my shop. Plus I was fortunate to have a huge tool store in my area that carried tons of tools. They have since closed because the internet put them out of business. Plain and simple. It is too bad because with the internet you can not touch and feel. This has caused many stores to go by the waste side and again touch and feel is a prime factor that many people just overlook. You do not buy a car over the net or maybe you do and that maybe the next great thing that goes away, the car dealerships. I got off track here but my point is all the saws you pointed to are the same saw so pick one and go by price and available parts because they will break down. Good luck and start cutting something.

Very well done. That is a prayer no matter how it is cut out has and always will have that power of calmness and spiritual uplifting. I am sure it will be cherished forever. Thanks for showing.

Yes it needs a dust blowing system and yes you still can get the bellows. If it runs $400 is my price tag on it. They are built for the long haul. need the key for the blade clamps and hopefully there are extra blade clamps. One thing never set your saw up like in that photos. That saw and any scroll saw needs to be on solid base. Should be sitting on the concrete floor. You add vibration when you do things like that.

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/28272-sanding-before-after-or-both/ here was my answer about half way down.

In my opinion none of the above in plywood form. The plywood is going to have an inner core that is junk and the outer core may have footballs for patches and if not very thin layer. If working with any type hard woods for scrolling I prefer hard wood boards. More expensive but truer woods to work with. Again my opinion. I have scrolled oak plywood but have gotten splintering from it when small detail was cut. Never do that again. I doubt serious that was honduras mahogany because it has become almost untouchable. I may have misread your posting. If the woods you stated at the beginning are true hardwoods then by all means everyone is good scrolling wood. I still question the Honduran mahogany because the cost is outrageous and lowes is not going to supply that when my hardwood lumber company does not even bring it in because of cost. I use mainly red oak but also all the others mentioned and plenty more.

There is no way to measure that type of pressure because everyone is different. I may use my fingers more than someone who uses their arms more and so forth. Just establish what works for you and run with it. No rights and wrongs here.

I have said many times on this site my preferred finish for my work and that is dipping in Danish oil wipe it dry and then polish with watco satin polish. If I top coat I will never use poly. Too thick and plastic looking to me. I will spray lacquer. If doing many items I will st up my HVLP sprayer and spray water based lacquer. Clean is a matter of washing container out and running a cup of water through gun followed by some denatured alcohol for drying purposes. The key is doing in batches unless you are making one piece at a time which is a pain in the neck to me then your way is best.

Glad to read things are getting better and your spirits are up and keep following the doctors orders. I know when I had my episode with lung blood clots I was not allowed out of bed for a week while they had me on huge amounts of blood thinners. I could not breathe even after taking a couple steps. That was how I knew I was in trouble. The blood clot in my leg broke off and traveled to lungs. On baby asprin regimeine now and still have to be so careful when cutting yourself because you bleed out so easily. Take care and keep us up to date. The scrolling family is here for you and send prayers your way.

I too am in favor in front. I would use a larger insert (2")and keep the size of the holder because it is proportional to the size of the dog. The whole project looks tall comparing to the size of the insert.

I would dip the Danish oil. It will dry in 24 hours if left in a warm place. But will not cure for about a week. If you use Danish oil and after 24 hours and then handle it the warmth of your hands will cause the oils to be activated again. Just a warning. Just dip once and wipe dry after you let it drip for a few minutes to make sure it gets sucked into the grain well. Danish oil is boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, poly urethane and driers mixed together. The poly will give some protection as opposed to just mineral oil or BLO and mineral spirits. Any oils will leave a scent for about a week. I happen to like the smell.

Hey Jim that came out great. Your welcome and glad to be of help. See I knew you could do it. Yes getting the right golf ball is key. They are good sellers because many people golf these days. Now if you have a golf center near you they usually have old glub heads that they repair. May not hurt to ask if they would be willing to make a deal. Many ideas you can do with that theme. I am working on a golfers pen. and a stand for it. Thanks for showing.

Everyone above nailed the answer. I do the same. But will say all plastics are not the same. I have cut plexiglass with just about any blade and no problem. I cut acrylic pen blanks and it melts back. now there are many different types of acrylic too so need to experiment with blade and speed and feed. Have fun.

https://www.ptreeusa.com/finish_flocking.htm Just to follow up on this, I ordered my flocking from Peachtree USA they had the best price. I also found out they make several varieties I matched what I have been using right along and that was the Suede-Tex flock and adhesive. Needed a few more colors.

I do not believe the dog's nose is touching. I have that pattern and have scrolled it before and if memory serves me well there is a space there. Kevin when I first started cutting patterns such as that with grass like that I too use to back out and make pointed cuts, now I can turn on a dime and you would never see that slight round edge. I defy you to see it. Just comes with years of practice and all those little tricks you pick up along the way. Always like to keep the cutting going. Looks good.

I plane my own lumber to dimensions I need. Most times I resaw boards to get me close and then hit the 16/32 drum sander. Now depending how much I need to sand I can start with 100 or 120 grit paper. Then finish with 180 and it is now at the dimension I need. Sometimes if I am using 3/4" stock and need to get to 5/8" I just run it through the planer a couple times and gets me closer and then to the drum sander. Now I lay out my patterns on the board utilizing the most lumber I could so I may have a couple different patterns and just work them into the board. Less waste this way. I then lay blue painters tape on entire board and glue my patterns down. I rough scroll each piece out using either bandsaw or scrollsaw. Now I then take to drill press and using a larger bit I drill most holes. If i need more detail holes I switch to a smaller bit but largest I can use without ruining the pattern lines. I always have a sacrificial board on the drill press table and constantly rotate it or move it around so that when I drill the pattern out I have a backer under it so not to pop splinters out on the back side. To me this is important to for people to look back there and not see huge blowouts. After I cut pieces I strip the blue tape and the pattern comes with it and is easy to do. Sometimes little pieces need to be taken off and I use a exacto knife for that. Now I usually take all pieces out side and I sand both front and back with a porta cable sander and 220 grit paper. After this I use my compressor to blow all the dust out and I had mentioned this before being I use red oak mainly I need to blow the dust out not only the frets but also the grain of the woods. Or else the caked up dust will be ugly when I dip in Danish oil. Here is the finish ( Porta Cable #330 palm sander or block sander as also known)sander that I have been using for many many years and own a couple. Easy to change paper because I buy pre cut paper for this sander as well as my random orbital sanders. https://www.hmres.com/site/images/articles/1d31830b-dc2c-4800-8d2f-8db4.jpeg

Ray you know I do because we have talked before. I do not use it that often any more but still in my arsenal. I do have it set up to make angle cuts that I use for my napkin holders and was using for my collapsible baskets that I use make many of. Other than that it sits and collects dust but not from sawing. It is an older unit and is 18" . I use a foot switch as I do on all my saws. I put a wood top on it for zero clearance and smooth sliding of work piece. Not much more I can say about it.

Just using a nuisance dust filter with breathable port is a +++ from nothing at all http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-20627/Dust-Masks-and-Respirators/3M-8210V-N95-Industrial-Respirator-with-Valve?pricode=WB4438&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=pla&utm_term=S-20627&utm_ca I use these many times unless doing a truely dusty job and break out the big guns. Canister filters for whatever the project. Different canisters for each job. I have a few Peltor hearing protectors hanging from different tools so they are right there when I need them.