JTTHECLOCKMAN

I buy the rolls where I cut my own lengths. Cheaper and works well for me. Very easy to do. Take old one off and use as template for new one. I buy mine here as well as other papers. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/drsaro.html

Can't worry about it Kevin. Glad you have extra insurance. Hope that person does not cut their finger off taking out those clock inserts when replacing clocks and he uses a knife blade. Just saying that you can take anything in the world and make it a hazard. Sometimes responsibility and headsup has to step in. I do not want to get into this here. Not my concern.

I always buy rolls that I cut to use. Cheaper that way and very very easy to do. I get mine here along with sanding pads. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/drsaro.html

I have used these words myself here many times and that is why I do not and never will make toys for kids of any kind. Not only small pieces to swallow but paints and finishes used. This is also something adults need to be aware of too. I may just make a few and try to sell them. As I sell to an adult I will warn them. This is the same thing with bullet pens that I make. I will not sell to any kids under 18 years old. By then they are out of school and they are adults so to speak. Happened at my last show. I explained to the kid I am not allowed to sell it to them. It is a pen but can mistaken. I warn people if they are traveling also that it can be confiscated at an airport. Not my concern after the sale. You can not follow every sale you make as I am sure you can not either and sure there are questionable items you sell also. It is ashame the society we live in today. A clock you made is hung on a wall and the kid knocks it off and has a sharp edge and kills the kid. Think about your words too. I got this far in life I am not running in fear now.

How old?? You say good condition but is all working well. If so $500 is a great price and no more than $600

I probably should have included some more info. They are the $ puzzles from Steve Goode and the material is 1/4" BB so I will get some FD puzzle blades as he suggests. May also make some picture puzzles as he shows too. Thanks all. Where is the best place to buy the FD puzzle blades??? I may even try some of my jewelers blades. Thinking of giving as gifts at shows. I should also ask here has anyone done this puzzle before and if so are you using real dollar bills and if so is it legal to cut them up like that?? I know I could make paper copies but the real thing would be cool. I am sure if I did it there would be customers questioning this and if there is a web site that has a disclaimer that I might be able to add to the box would even be better. Thinking out loud here. Just been doing some web searching and I guess I found my answer, it is illegal to deface any money coin or paper. so I will have to resort to printing paper

I have a couple puzzle patterns I want to make this year and was wondering what is the best blade for these. They are small puzzles and not kid puzzles. What makes one blade better than say a #2 FD silver reverse?? Thanks. Never cut a puzzle pattern.

as with everyone else I use blue painters tape but the tape needs to be fresh and not years old. I then spray pattern and cut making sure the glue is dry before drilling. If I get to a delicate situation I will use a pencil with an eraser to guide the piece so that I can get close to the blade without my fingers getting in the way. This is the spray adhesive I have been using for years.http://www.staples.com/Krylon-Super-Quick-Grip-Spray-Adhesive-11-oz/product_301433?cid=PS:BingPLAs:301433&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=301433&KPID=301433&cvosrc=PLA.bing-SALES.Office Suppli

This looks good. All sound advice too. Thanks for sharing. A nice backerboard will strengthen any delicate areas and give it some depth too. Thanks for showing.

If you are quoting me Kevin I never checked any numbers just saw all the different saw types that delta ever made. I looked at his no. and blade holder and it says obsolete. So disregard my link. but it is a great one if you ever need part diagrams for any delta saws. http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/delta-40-150-15-quot-scroll-saw.html

Some one here just shown a few not that long ago. There are patterns out there. I have seen them before.

Hello Jim To answer your question no all golf balls are not the same and in fact they keep changing designs so which ones are which I have no idea. Some have liquid in them so be careful. They are designed according to your game, if you are a slicer or a puller and things like that. They are so scientific now. I have shown the ones I use in that photo. (Spalding) That is a box of them. I look for the solid core ones and Titleist makes them for sure. I do not know about other companies. I do not golf so not much more I can say. The one I shown with the blue inside is solid and the material is some kind of rubber foam or some composite. It is not pure rubber or it would be a pain in the neck to drill. Not sure how you are jigging these up but will tell you I slice the front off before drilling and then center the bit by measurement. I run them through the band saw. If you don't do that the clock will sit proud of the ball all around. Those inserts are just right for the golf ball. I will be making some golf ball displays again this year. They always sold well just that they are time consuming and could be a pain in the butt. Will see.

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/saw/scroll-saw/delta.html power of the internet

Oh we all have been thereeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

When I started this some 35 years ago the best designer that I followed and used soooooo many of his patterns and still do today was Rick Longabough and his wife Karen from the Berry Basket fame. The next would be Dan and Ray Wilckens designs and again still use many of their patterns and always loved their style. Next would be Karen and Dirk Boelman of the Art Factory. We lost 2 of the greatest pattern makers in Dirk and Ray over the years. Last would be John Nelson. I always liked his work and had the pleasure of working with him on a few projects. I have many patterns in my possession from various artists and some have been mentioned already but the top ones are my list.

I did something like this when I was making many many folding baskets / trivits for craft shows. This was for the screws in the side so the basket can pivot when unfolded Mounted drill motor sideways on a board and at the proper height being I always used 3/4" oak which made this easy. I still have that jig floating around the shop somewhere.

I hate HF for anything with a motor. That is just me so you all do what you want. I have 3 dremels and never burnt one up yet and in fact just bought another when they were on sale at Lowes for Christmas sales. You can go with the drill press feature or the plunge router feature with the dremel and yes all today are VS. My drill presses are 16" Delta floor model and I never change speeds with fostner bits for the small inserts up to the 2-3/4" and any drilling with bits. I change speeds when using larger fostner bits such as 4" No need to in my opinion. Look at the recommended speeds on them. I would have to look what it is set on but can tell you it is somewhere in the middle speed range. I also have a Delta 12" table top drill press and really like this one for small work and extremely accurate drilling. It has a zero clearance chuck on it as the 16" does not. That is a factor if using very tiny drill bits. Same thing when buying a hand drill. Not to go into details with the Craftsman that someone mentioned but you really need to check the quill on them and make sure the chuck is sitting in properly. The chuck itself could have runout in it so an easy fix. Having 2 drill presses comes in handy many times if you have a couple different operations going at the same time. Both drill presses have depth setting capabilities which is a must. Ease of table raising is also key along with the ability to tilt table at times. Love to own a radial drill press but no room for it.

There is no right or wrong way of doing things just many ways to do it. I would cut the rabbit ears off and let the inlay sit within the front piece and then cut a backer piece just about 1/8" to 1/4" larger that the front piece so that it shadows the piece and you can paint the center a different color or just stain it all a different color than the front piece. Next one I would make the front piece thicker than the inlay. You can make the front and back piece the same size and just router the edges to relieve the thickness look somewhat. You can rabbit around the opening on the back side and inlay the colored piece and just add a backer Layers do not mean anything. Also on something like that I would give the customer an option as to hang on the wall with a saw tooth hanger in the back or other type hanger and also use a photo easel. I do this with my claddagh clocks. They have the option to hang on wall or I make a stand for them to display and is included. You can buy the stands.

Very tough to do like this because the lighting and angle hitting each piece. The domestics look easier to tell. My guesses #1- poplar #4 aromatic cedar (should smell) #6-white oak or ash #8-maple (soft maple) #7- cherry Others I can not see well. Exotics #2-purpleheart all others the light is off.

A+ Kevin

You too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is just another "Which Saw Would You Buy" thread. Ask 50 people and you will get 50 different answers with 100 different reasons. Unless you scroll for some time on a saw you will not get the feel for it. Iggy has a hangup that is all and his is speed. Some day that will all come crashing to an end. His report on a RBI is his opinion and mine is there is no better saw on the market. I am speaking from some experience. I own a Hegner, A dewalt and 2 RBIs They have different cutting mechanisms which make them unique to themselves. Basically all other saws on the market are clones of the 3 big names and they use the mechanisms for cutting within their saws. For a few different amenities they are all the same. I leave out the lower end saws because they too are nothing but clones coming off the same assembly line with different coats of paint on them. As they say you get what you pay for. My suggestions is if you have an opportunity to try and scroll on different saws and if buying a higher end saw look for deals. They are out there ans we see here many times. Do not let one person's review sway you one way or other.

Ray I suggest you call Hegner and get their opinion.

I hit the lathe

Kevin I understand but those batteries last for over a year and by the time they have to reset or change a battery they forgot anyway. I have a few inserts that did not work from the get go. The flag ones are some of the worst. I can only find them through Wildwood and I use many of these. Can not find the blue flag ones any more. Only the white background. I ordered some of the 2-3/4" from Wildwood and the whole desig was changed and do not fit in my projects like the others use to. I buy 2" also. I use so many in my military clocks. I have asked here as well as other forums as to a source for some of the inserts I use but have come up empty. getting tougher to find my inserts.