kmmcrafts

That's one thing I'm afraid of doing.. burning too many unexpected things, LOL.. like burning the shop down or? I won't fire it until I get a fire extinguisher.. LOL Not sure what to run in the laser for coolant yet too.. I know they say distilled water.. but I'm in an area where water will freeze solid during the winter months... I could run the water until I figure out what I can run to keep it from freezing.. since I'm a couple months before I need to worry about it yet..

So one reason I haven’t messed with my laser yet even though I’ve had it for nearly two years is I needed to figure out a stand, being busy and trying to learn the ropes of the CNC router the laser just sat on the back burner. Earlier this summer my bbq grill bottom rusted out. I fabricated a new bottom for it to get by while this COVID was so rampant. Last week the igniter quit and I’d had enough of this piecing it together with tape and glue so to speak. Went and got a new grill. My wife asked me what I was going to do with the old grill while we was moving it out of the spot to put the new grill. I said put it on the scrap trailer, ( I have a dedicated trailer that I throw metal scraps on to haul to the metal recycling centers) then it hit me. I unmourned the grill from the stand and had this scrap 1/2” osb already cut to the right size. I have some 1” too that I used for my flooring in my loft but this seems to be plenty heavy enough ( laser doesn’t weigh much) . The spot on the bottom where the lp tank goes is a perfect spot for the 5 gallon bucket of coolant for the C02 laser tube. I’ll probably build a heavier top later with enough room for a work bench spot for the laptop etc but this seems to work pretty well like this for now. Planning to have the laser setup outside of my main shop due to all the fine dust that I haven’t been able to get 100% control of yet from my saws and sanders even though I have dust collection and air filters etc. and I’m assuming the dust and the laser won’t get along with one another to well. So anyway I’m setting it up in my loft above my shop.

Honestly can't agree more with this statement... And as for the Hawk.. ( Made In The USA! )... BUT.. that said... they both have a different style of cutting and the ergonomics of each saw is different... not everyone likes the long arm saws.. I have 3 Hawks and a Excalibur.. Most my cutting is done on the Hawks.. I put about 500 - 600 hours on a saw per year.. The Hawk saws are expensive but in comparison they really aren't too bad priced.. I mean... a new Pegas will run you $800 - 875 shipped and add about $100ish for a stand.. A Hawk 20" saw will run you $1300 -1350.. with stand.. So yes $200 - 300 more.. but in the end.. less.. I can get about a year or so on a DeWalt - Ex type of saw.. if I only had one saw I'm rebuilding / replacing once a year.. Why I have so many saws.. LOL .. I've got probably around 900 hours on my oldest Hawk since I bought it.. I did basically rebuild the whole saw as it was really worn when i first got it. BUT maintaining it I see very little wear.. I'm thinking that saw would most likely outlast me with proper maintenance. I bought the saw well worn for $100 and put an additional $200 into replacement parts / upgrades.. some was just luxury upgrades like the flex air hose.. This is why when I was looking to buy a NEW saw.. I didn't have to really "LOOK" because knew what I wanted and bought the new BM226 Hawk.. The three Hawks will last me through my life.. I'll never "need" another saw.. Want and Need is two different things though... As I've said though.. they both have a different style of cutting.. provided you tune them to your needs.. you can get them pretty darn close to the same cutting.. and for a hobbyist a EX type saw would probably last them several years.. and maybe a lifetime.. Hawks aren't bullet proof.. they have bearings too.. and yes... I've had to replace the pitman arm bearings on all but the newest Hawk.. which btw only has about 115 hours on the meter so that's probably why I haven't had to do any repairs yet, LOL

I'm glad that I took on the project... Deep down I really just wanted to throw the saw away and buy a Pegas, LOL.. I still want to get a Pegas saw.. but I also felt that since there is no info on parts or repairs on the EX saws especially the China clone ones.. I was always curious how close to the same thing they was.. and if Ray could be a parts source.. or anyone else for that matter such as Pegas parts etc.. The only real difference I found was just the aluminum rocker arm mounts wouldn't it into the saw arm tubes.. I've been considering selling this saw now and get the saw I really would like to have and / try.. ( Pegas ).. Pegas did some upgrades to the bearings at the back of the saw.. My understanding is they put in larger higher quality bearings in the saw.. This is just what Bob Duncan has said.. I have no personal experience on this to know for sure if that is true or just a sales person talking up the product.. I'd like to know for sure.. and may buy a Pegas this fall and find out, LOL.. I think it was really a fairly easy task to rebuilt this saw.. but it is time consuming.. or for me it was.. Mostly because I have 2 boys that like my tools.. and also sometimes they like to leave them in the wrong drawer or in their car.. Took me a better part of a afternoon to do the rebuild.. Could have done it faster but I was in no hurry and was also carefully inspecting parts.. since I was doing a rebuild on a China clone with parts not really made for that saw.. So Far So Good With My Rebuild.. I've Got Around 30 Hours On The Meter Since The Rebuild..

I got mine in 2017 and it was before anyone even knew of the China version.. I thought I was getting the real deal.. Mine was Nov, 2017.. But.. I also bought it second hand new in sealed box.. so I don't know.. You also have to consider the stock that the stores may have had on the original saws.. I bought my parts from Ray.. everything fit fine except the front rocker assemblies.. you can see my story in the link.. Any questions feel free to post or send me a message..

Glad you enjoyed the topic.. big reason I went ahead with the rebuild was to see if the parts would work.. It's hopefully going to be beneficial to others that own the China made saw.. without a doubt there are going to be some people having issues with the bearings etc in the future.. As for your vibration.. have you turned the motor to adjust the blade movement? Mine was the same way but I was able to buy some time with it by rotating the motor slightly.. You might try it.. just to get by for a while..

Exactly why I run my saw full speed when cutting BBply... I typically stack cut 4-6 pieces and this sometimes happens.. I find it ( for me ) seems to happen in thin spots where two cuts are real close to one another with just a thin like separating and sometimes I've attributed it to pushing a dull drill bit though the wood rather than letting the bit do the drilling, LOL Usually a new bit helps with some of it for me.. though on rare occasion it just happens..no matter what I do..

Ohhh Boy... I'm looking forward to this one.. Only thing is.. I need to pick one or maybe a few of my car projects since I have over 60 car clocks listed on various websites not to mention puzzles, portraits and ornaments.. I'm going to have to think about what ones have the best story to go along with them.. I guess since you said your first car was a 83 Camaro.. I'll start with one of those, LOL.. I'll think about something personal and post it along with a story behind it I suppose..

Thank you Marg! As for patterns, not really but sort of, LOL.. I buy vectors of car images from a couple of etsy sellers.. they are just the image of the car... I then put the drawing into inkscape and add the part below the car with the car name then add the spot for the clock... this is why I don't share the patterns as the car portion really isn't mine to share.. Sometimes I'm able to work off of a coloring page.. Oh and I modify what to cut out or not while on the fly.. so I've gotten pretty good at knowing what will be a floater in a pattern and what have you.. I don't clean them all up as a scroll saw pattern normally would be.. just follow my gut on where to cut.. Also these vectors work with my CNC and laser for future projects.. Hope to one day open another store with my CNC / laser work.. I'll keep KevsKrafts a scroll sawn store and open up something new for the other stuff..

Friend in high school bought one that was really rough shape. should have been a parts car.. but he and his dad sorta restored it and it was an awesome car for a short time.. He turned left at a traffic light when he thought the oncoming traffic was going to stop as the light had turned yellow / red... and the back fender took a pretty hard hit... they pulled it out and made it derivable again though they never really fixed it back up.. I think they had plans to but then he smoked a deer with the front too so.. LOL Boy they had a lot of work in that old car.. I'd have never attempted to fix it.. there wasn't a straight or rust free panel on the car when they first got it, LOL.. nor did it have an engine.. but they got a junkyard motor and rebuilt it etc.. Like I said.. they had a lot of man hours putting that car together.. only looked good for about 8 months before the first mishap.. LOL There was a post about that car on his FB page last week which inspired me to make this clock, LOL

Haven't posted in here in a long time so I thought I'd share a couple new designs I've made.. Both from 5/8" cherry cut with a #3 Pegas MG blade

Very nice job on that cutting Carl!! Love my Hawk saws... and I agree with Scott.. I'd probably use a #3 blade.. My go to blade used to be a #5.. but more often than not anymore I go to the #3 the last couple years.. Keep up the good work and show us your projects..

On the Hawks it's really kinda hard to tell how much a saw has been used.. A really well used saw would have a worn wedge at the back of the saw.. The wedge is under the tension adjuster at the back of the saw.. it should be quite pointed edge on it.. not rounded at all.. another thing to look for is the front tension cam lever.. It should meet resistance before it touches the arm without a blade installed flip the lever back.. if there is no resistance before it meets the arm then the saw has been used.. NOW.. the newer saws have an adjustment set screw directly below where the lever goes through the arm.. Older saws like this one doesn't have that set screw.. but there is a upgrade available for around $50 to get the newest version for the adjustable one..

Could be a nice option for making Christmas ornaments.. Probably just cut them and no need to apply a finish?? I'd like to see the stuff in person to see better what it is..

Mine is also a 1993... but it doesn't have the hollowed out arms.. and my serial number is quite a lot higher than the one shown in the ad for this one.. I have put a lot of hours on mine.. not sure why I felt I needed to buy two more newer Hawks.. I did have a surging motor when I first got mine and thought it was going bad.. took the switch box apart and blew the dust out of it and I've not had any issues since.. and like you say.. it just keeps going and going.. I do use mine at least a few times a week.. and was my main production saw for at least 1.5 years.. I wouldn't be scared to buy this one if the price was right.. I just said all the other things to point them out.. If one could get it at around half the asking price or close to that.. it's worth it provided the motor has no issues which is really the biggest downfall of these older saws.. Parts are still available.. I just feel a newer saw is a better choice for the price range of this one.

I had to google it... and your favorite store has them.. looking at the pictures it looks to me like the outer art lines up with the hole in the hinge and then you get your hole perfectly centered into the hinge hole for the screws to go in and sink without getting them off centered etc.. I may be wrong on that.. https://www.harborfreight.com/hinge-drill-bit-set-3-pc-61550.html

Another thing I should have mentioned... paint drying times.. A typical spray can of paint doesn't have any catylist / activator to speed up the "full" curing time.. so those paints typically take either 30, 60, or 90 days to fully cure.. While it dries to the touch and most cases is fine for painting certain things.. But i would think the paint would be way to soft to "try to scroll on it" until it has cured completely.. otherwise a good chance the paint will scratch off quite quickly.. A paint with a catylist would be much faster to cure more durable etc etc... But if you're just selling it... does that really matter? Maybe the magnetic sheet is a better way to go with it...or just leave it as is..

It's an old saw.. Guessing 1990 -92 area.. Has the motor that has some problems.. Has the weaker hollowed out arms on it ( though I've never heard of issues with those arms they made a point about them being weak in on of their video ads about a newer saw with stronger arms )... This saw being older will have the round barrel style lower blade holders.. nothing wrong with them but many people either loved or hated them for some reason.. I have one of these saws.. and I have no issues with it over any of my newer saws with other styles of blade holders.... Make note that those blade holders cost about $20 each.. and while you really only need one.. but having more with preloaded blades is really nice... I know you mentioned you was thinking about making an offer.. I know people see a Hawk at a price of $250 - 600 and automatically think it's a deal because a new one is $1200 -1400.. But there is a lot of upgrades on the new saws. while they "look" the same to the average joe... they are far from it.. There is not really much to go wrong with these other than just normal wear.. and these old ones did have the motor problems.. which can cost $350 to repair.. That saw to me.. on a good day is probably a $300 saw if it was in like new condition.. and I'm talking like brand new condition.. Many other folks on the FB groups etc will say it's a steal at the $300 ish price... but they don't know the difference between these very old saws to the newer models that are almost always available in the same price range. So with all that said.. personally if you're stuck on wanting it.. $200 -250 is where I'd be offering at best.. maybe $300 or better if there is actually proof that it's never been used.. But there are way too many newer Ultra models out there with the good motors and better user friendly upgrades in the same price range..

Got my order in the mail today... so the service seems timely as one should expect.. I haven't done any sanding with it yet and probably won't for a few more weeks since I have some sheets of my other paper left to use up.. That said, looking in a couple of the boxes the paper looks and feels like a good quality... but the real test will be using it.. Thanks to everyone who had made suggestions.. I'll recap on this after I run through a couple sheets..

You might check into having it epoxy coated.. That is ( I believe ) stronger than powder coat.. also believe that is what the Pegas table has on it..

I'm assuming you're talking about the table top? I've thought about re-painting mine.. Yours looks much more worn than mine does.. I assume you must have several hours on the machine.. If I was going to actually re-paint mine I would suggest taking the table off since it's only 4 screws.. this way you're not getting over spray on the rest of the saw.. If I do mine with paint I'll be using a automotive Urethane base coat clear coat on it.. Real durable stuff... Or a single stage Urethane... If I was just cleaning it up to sell then I would try matching the color as best as you can and then use a quality spray can of paint.. NOT rust-o-lium either.. as that stuff take a long time to cure good and solid.. it's more of a cheap oil base paint...but doesn't hold up real well.. I'd go with Dupi-color or Krylon enamel.. Not cheap but some auto paint supply stores will mix up a single stage Urethane and put it into a spray can for you.. One can should coat it several times.. keep it stored in a cool dry place and it might last for a long time.. Thing with Urethane paints is it has a catylist / activator and once it's mixed.. you don't have forever to hold onto it and use a will.. Should also wear quality respirator with these types of paints.. I had also thought about asking a powder coat place what it would cost.. that would hold up quite a long time too.. If you do decide to spray it.. you should use a de-waxing solvent on it.. especially if you've waxed it.. then sand it down.. I'd use 400 grit wet sanding paper and then follow up with a 600 grit wet sanding paper.. Drop of dish soap in the bucket of water will help the sandpaper last longer and also helps remove any contaminants .

Not on my car!! I fill the tires with helium so there is less weight... gotta watch the speeds on those small bridges so we don't come off the ground..

JT and I didn't always see eye to eye and somehow always managed to get into some heated topics.. Both he and I are passionate about our beliefs on certain things and many of those beliefs are opposite of each other and for some reason neither one of us could just let it go.. I do wish he would come back and participate again.. he is a wealth of knowledge and many people would benefit with his shared knowledge and experience..

Don't remember which brand new saw I purchased that stated in the manual to never leave tension on the blade when not in use or you could damage the saw... What struck me as funny... the saw was shipped with a tensioned blade in it..

I had never thought about filtering the remains when I'm done.. I may try that as no matter how much of the sawdust etc I blow off the pieces with a air hose.. I still get fine dust in the oil, usually not noticed until my gallon is nearing the bottom of the can.. I think Brenda was saying that she was spilling it when trying to pour it back into the can and loosing a fair amount of the oil.. If that is the case there are a couple thing you might try.. you could get a oil change pan for changing a cars oil that has a pour spout? Or you could try using a dedicated funnel? Also have read over the years and actually did it myself a few years.. and that is to get a dedicated dipping container that has a sealed lid.. just pour into that and dip projects.. if it starts getting too much fine sawdust in it or gets contaminated toss it out and clean the container and start over with fresh oil.. Just be sure the container is chemical resistant and that it's not going to melt with the oil in it, LOL