kmmcrafts

I also wax my tables quite regularly.. not every day.. but.. all my saw tables get waxed about every week.. even if I'm not using that saw.. and about once a month I wax all the tables on all woodworking tools.. not only the table but fences and guards that the wood passes through get waxed too.. and about two times a year.. i also wax the entire machine and stands just to do a nice cleaning.. the dust doesn't stick to the stands and equipment by doing this.. then this makes cleaning up easier.. just vac / sweep the floors.. because the dust slides off the equipment onto the floor for the most part.. one day when it warms up.. I'm going to hook up some dust collection systems to my saws etc..for an easier yet clean up.. I've never waxed the blades.. I keep beeswax for making my homemade finish.. so I think I might give this a try on my scroll saw blades.. Somewhere I've seen a wax stick for scroll saw blade lubricant.. can't remember what website it was on now.. but they also sold blades..

Again, a true tuned saw shouldn't vibrate much if any different while cutting.. A blade forward / rearward adjustment is what comes to my mind when you mention this.. My Excalibur did the same until I actually tuned the forward / rearward blade motion by moving the motor.. While the saw cut pretty good.. without doing this.. it was considerable smother once I did this.. Mine was far enough off that I had to take the motor bolts right out and move them to the next set of slotted holes..

As has been said.. You can tweak and tune a saw to run smooth at different speeds.. I personally don't run any of my saws less than half way.. most run at just shy of full speed.. All of my saws would pass the nickle test because I've taken time to adjust and do little tricks to get them to run that way.. I won't say they'll all pass this nickle test through the whole speed range from slow to fast.. I will say.. the DeWalt and the Excalibur I have running smooth throughout the speed range and I'm certain they'd pass the nickle test.. I think my dewalt is probably the smoothest running saw I have.. I know this one will pass.. and Ii know the Hawks would fail at some of the speeds.. but they run real smooth in the speed range that I like to cut at so I don't care much about those slower speeds.. Edit to add: The biggest fail of a saw vibrating in my experience is nothing to o with the saw itself.. It's more to do with the stand it's mounted too.. My Excalibur vibrated pretty bad at certain speeds when I first set it up.. But after tweaking the stand to have all four legs planted firmly onto the ground I have it to a point now where I'm certain it'd pass the test throughout the speed range..

Most do not reset.. This particular one has three modes.. two of which can be reset.. and of those two you can stop in the middle of a project and start another project on the other mode which then you can come back to the one mode and resume the first project.. this is the reason I chose this particular one.. Also can be hooked up to my lawn tractor if I choose not to use it on the scroll saw..

Marg, All of these patterns was purchased on ebay.. they are actually designed for CNC or Laser and are formatted as a DXF file.. which takes a DXF reader to open them.. You might try to search the design and ask the seller if they'd do a jpeg or other printable file.. or just download a program that'll open them so they can be printed.. I've been purchasing them as DXF because I now have a CNC and may want to use them someday on that.. That is.. if it ever warms up so I can assemble the machine.. .. You should share some of that heat with us, LOL.. You're probably thinking if I would share some of the cool air with you, LOL... we'll both get the right weather soon I hope..

Yeah, it's really just for my own knowledge.. I don't think it's a very accurate why to keep track of how long a piece takes either because some pieces don't take much time at all on the saw.. but can take a lot of time just doing sanding and finishing prep work.. I've made pieces that took much longer to prep for finishing than it did to cut, LOL.. But yeah.. big detailed portrait style cutting would be interesting to see.. but I don't do a lot of that type cutting either...

I bought a few of these to hook up to my saws.. Steve Good did a video on these quite a while ago and ever since I seen it I wanted to get one for my saw.. I'll be hooking one up to my new Hawk once it arrives and then I plan to put one on my Excalibur since it's fairly lightly used.. ( probably about 30 hours ) and also put one on my Hawk ultra.. While I typically think I run my saw quite a lot.. but doing fretwork really isn't working a saw like doing the puzzles like Scott makes.. After cutting some puzzles last year I realized that the saw runs the whole 20-30 minutes to cut a puzzle.. but doing fretwork you might cut for an hour but the actual run time on the saw might only be 40 minutes.. While it doesn't take much time to stop and change the blade to the next hole.. but that time I'm sure adds up doing some intricate projects.. I just thought it'd be interesting to see how much run time there really is in some of the things I make.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Searon-Digital-Hour-meter-of-12V-24V-36V-48V-110V-220V-230V-AC-DC-for-ATV-Law/323662394749?hash=item4b5bc8357d:g:1QEAAOSwAx9cSAyA:rk:1:pf:0

Well, it’s been a while since I’ve done much cutting due to getting a sinus infection and it’s bothersome wearing my dust mask. I have several new clocks cut but waiting on making the backers. Was going to wait and post all of them but since I’ve not been able to work in the shop and I was able to glue these and finish them up I thought I’d show them. Stack cut three of these and put a walnut backer on two and one with a cherry backer. Ill post a couple of the half finished clocks as well since I don’t know when I’ll get back in the shop as when I do get better I have some other things to do and it could be a while before I finish them up. EDIT: Not sure why the pictures came up in the wrong order.. Probably my phones fault, LOL.. well.. the phone operator

I don't think there is as much of an issue with the Mineral Oil bleeding out on Poplar like it does with so many other types of wood so probably not many complaints would come through for that process... I surely wouldn't do that with cherry or oak .. especially oak and some of the other quality hardwoods with the open grain.. For many of us that do home decor type pieces the mineral oil alone isn't a finish we choose because it does not dry.. and it will wash away during cleaning / dusting of a piece.. and can / will get onto your hands on things people handle a lot.. These type of things need a more sealed type finish in my opinion.. For what it's worth.. all wood finishes sold in the USA once fully cured are child and pet safe.. from what I've been told...

Not sure where you're located... but if the deal falls through and you're close to Michigan.. I'm going to be selling a Hawk 220VS for about $200 and also a DeWalt 788 for about $200.. I'll sell the Hawk a lot cheaper but to do that i'll be taking the upgraded parts off for spares for my other Hawks.. I have about $150 in upgrades into that saw..

The direction you cut plays a big role in how the project comes out.. especially doing double bevel inlay work..

I cut counter clockwise most times but do cut both directions.. especially when I drill a whole in the wrong spot and clockwise would hold the piece better from breaking, LOL.. I'm not sure why I chose counter clockwise because I used to always cut clockwise when I first started cutting.. But when I first started I was also using Olsen blades.. Then I started using FD-UR blades for a lot of years.. and still do at times... but also use Pegas MG a lot ore now too..

I like red oak looks but I also don’t like the smell of it. The bland look is really an opinion and dependent on project at hand. Most of my clocks that I make from oak.. by the time I do all the cutouts there’s not enough wood to really see the wood grain anyway. I do agree with this on larger portrait type designs and some of the clock designs. Oak is my last go to type wood, much rather work with cherry as that is my go to wood. Love working with walnut too but I don’t think it looks good but only on certain projects as the darker color doesn’t always show the details as good. But it’s all personal preferences and options.

This is what I look for when buying certain types of wood.. mainly Red or White Oak.. I won't even buy unless it's quarter sawn. I have a lot of trouble with cupping etc otherwise.. Might just be the supplier I get it from but.. many times the wood cupped before I even get it home.. Only oak I use that isn't quarter sawn is free stuff that I get from my brothers mill.. which I get quite a bit of.. but i feel if it cups or warps.. it was free so I either use for other projects or campfire wood.. LOL.. But if I'm paying for wood... it better be good stuff..

Yeah, those oil soaked rags can combust . I live in the boonies and have a burn barrel. I burn my paper towels as soon as I’m done with them so I expect to have a fire every time I do a batch of project finishings. This way I’m not setting the trash can on fire or the garage truck.

I'm probably the wrong person to answer that, LOL since I myself have been asking a lot of questions about finishes.. If I were you.. since you have the stuff to mix up your finish I'd go for that.. and see whether you like it or not.. Danish oil is basically the same thing with polyurethane added to it.. In fact I've read that some add poly to their homemade mix of BLO.. If you don't like the BLO mix.. you probably won't really like Danish oil either.. since it is very similar.. I just posted this thread the other day.. JT responded with some really good info to think about.. There was another thread within the last year I think that I did where JT posted about the different oils and mixes that can be done.. Think he even mentioned about adding in the Poly to the mix of BLO.. Anyway maybe read what JT said here.. Think it's probably one of those things where is a matter of preference..

By Amazon prices it's about $27 a gallon if you buy the BLO and Mineral Spirits by the gallon and mix 50/50 to make 2 gallon.. so in the long run it's cheaper I suppose.. but more expensive than the Danish oil for me since I only have to pay $22 gal. locally..

If you do the mix.. I suggest getting a metal paint can to keep the mix in.. I used a old windshield washer fluid plastic jug and it started to deform the jug after a couple weeks.. I don't remember the cost of the BLO mix I made but I do think it's slightly cheaper.. however I think the Watco Danish oil with the poly in the mix is a better overall finish for a better protection.. Just my opinion..

Watco s a brand and they sell different types of oil finishes.. but most commonly is the Danish oil.. Is this the stuff you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-242217-Gallon-Natural-Danish/dp/B000OUFB46/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1550967201&sr=8-7&keywords=watco+danish+oil This is what I use.. But.. I'm not sure why it's so pricey online.. I pay $21 a gallon locally..

I've always heard 50/50 as well.. but I've also heard to do different ratios too I was thinking the different ratios gave a different luster type... I may be wrong on that though.. I did do a trial run of the 50/50 mix last year and it worked well.. but.. I personally like Danish oil because of the polyurethane in the mix for a little better protection.. And.. I didn't like the smell of the mix.. though I don't know what kind of Mineral Spirits I had... as I just bought a thing of it.. Believe it was low odor but I've seen stuff that said odorless..

I cut for about an hour and I didn’t have any issues with the tubes or anything. Didn’t get much cut because I was trying to practice top feeding the blade. But after several attempts near quitting time I just started bottom feeding. Lol Here is what I cut. (Picture from earlier as I got it mostly all cut now. )

I have a storage deal almost like this that I keep in my Hawk.. since I have the Hawks right next to each other I'm able to just grab from the holder whatever saw I'm using.. and I have like 50 tubes.. none would fit the base on the Excalibur.. so I ordered these.. I did see packs of 25, 50 etc.. cheap too.. I only really needed about 4.. for this saw.. but only seen in packs of 10.. This is a great tip for those that are looking though..

I ended up searching eBay and found these 10 tubes for less than $5 Now just need to do some cutting on this saw to see if they are going to rattle or anything that might be annoying, lol. If all goes well I think this saw will be going camping with me this summer Edit to add a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-16-x-150-mm-Clear-Plastic-Test-Tubes-with-Blue-Caps-6-Inch/381314545375?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Yeah me too but poly is all I used at first.. then JT mentioned using the lacquer and I do like the look a little better.. I'll probably end up using poly on these since I bought several cans last year as they say lacquer... but they aren't really they smell and finish like poly. it was a store brand ( do it best I think ) and it's not what it says it is.. LOL But I'm going to use them up..

Yeah, I can get that.. I did use it a long long time ago on something.. It's hard to find it but I have seen it.. Forgot about that stuff.. Hmm.. maybe I'll try some of that again on one of these.. Planning to dip at least two of them today..maybe I'll save out one of the walnut ones and try Deft..