kmmcrafts

I use both Pegas MG and FD blades.. while I was a die hard FD blade user a year ago.. when ordering some Pegas sample packs I found I really like Pegas blades.. I do still use FD blades as well but not as much... Pegas are a fast aggressive cutting blade.. while I typically stack cut most all work I do.. If there is a project that isn't being stack cut.. I definitely go to the FD-UR blades.. That all said.. in the less aggressive cutting Hawk saw I use exclusively Pegas.. but with the aggressive cutting DeWalt.. I do occasionally go to the stack of FD blades.. as stated above.. Kevin

I have't heard of removing the burr.. but have read and tried rounding of the back side of the blade.. It does help some but I don't do it very often.. actually kind of forgot about it until you mentioned it, LOL

Your story is almost exact to mine.. I purchased mine back in Oct 2016 and went all through it.. then I had some blade breakage issues that turned out to be me putting too much tension on the blades.. While i started sawing back in 2006 and have been through and rebuilt many saws including purchasing several new ones.. I finally found one I liked back in 09 when I bought my Dewalt.. I've rebuilt it once and it needs it again.. so I went for the Hawk as a backup saw.. turns out though.. that I think the Hawk will end up being my main saw with the DeWalt being a back up.. BTW... Sorry about the back order on those barrel clamps.. I ordered all they had back in January.. along with some accessories.. The accessories needed to be made so it took a while for my clamps and thumb screws to come in.. I just received my parts today, LOL.. I ordered a few extras barrel clamps so I could set up blades already clamped.. then I can swap in a whole new unit without having to fiddle around with getting the blade changed in the clamp. I think once you get done with your rebuild you will be quite happy with your purchase.. I was quite surprised how much better mine was compared to my DeWalt.. I felt the same way doing upgrades of different saws throughout the years.. and really thought there wouldn't be anything much better than my DeWalt.. I do have two complaints with my Hawk.. not really complaints but just things I learned to get used to with my other saws.. one is the SPM is slower on the Hawk and it doesn't cut very aggressively ( fast ).. I am learning how to compensate with more aggressive or larger blades.. I'd love to get a new Hawk with the faster SPM and that adjustable blade movement on the lower arm.. Anyone know if that lower arm would work on the older Hawks? Also do they have a way to tell how old the saw is? I'd like to know on mine.. Very interesting topic, Thanks for posting

Going to take a little more than just a drill press to make those.. unless you have a source of round stock in the correct diameter and threaded on the inside.. I'd be a little concerned about using that metal against the aluminum arm without that lubricated bronze bushing too.. while there isn't much motion there to wear it out real fast.. it was originally designed to last a very long time.. There is a little rocking motion during the stroke to wear that out.. otherwise why would they use a lube mixed bronze bushing in there in the first place? I do agree.. simple made provided you have some round stock, a drill press, and a tap to make the threads.. that said.. the whole saw is simple made provided you have proper tools to make it... IMO By the way.. what is different between yours and the original that makes yours so much better? just wondering because they look the same.. other than the thumb screw.. which I can get for the original barrel at any hardware store..

I picked up one of the Ridgid one a couple years ago from craiglist for $50.. not too sure if it was even used as it still had all the original sanding drums and papers with it.. also had the belt sander thing with manuals etc.. came mounted on a nice heavy Rigid stand to boot.. While I don't use it as much as I thought I would.. for the type of work I been doing anyway.. i don't really need one.. I hope to try intarsia at some point.. and bandsaw boxes.. so I am sure at some point it will be real useful

It's because the bushing is softer metal than the blade holder.. and the lower arm.. plus I think it is a special bronze bushing that has lube in it.. They make special bronze with a self lube mixed in the bronze for lube purposes.. The arms on these is just made from aluminum so without that bushing that barrel clamp would eat up that lower arm in no time.. While talking about the arms etc.. on the top arm at the back of the saw there is a wedge.. make sure to put a couple drops of oil on this.. also that wedge should be quite pointed.. almost to the point it would be sharp and then just rounded over slightly to keep it from being sharp.. If that is worn it will change the blade tension during the stroke.. and the blades in the lower portion will break.. Supposedly my saw was new too.. when I got it.. but that wedge was worn enough to say otherwise.. of coarse after I purchased it ans learned the hard way LOL.. I took the wedge off and laid flat on a sanding block on both sides until it was quite pointed again.. was really hard to tell how much it really was worn until I took it off.. worn more on one side than the other..

I go once in a while to the local woodcraft store that has one of the new jet saws on the showroom floor.. Once I walked past and seen the blade was loose from the upper clamp.. I played around with it for a minute and couldn't get it to grab.. next time I went (a few weeks later) that saw set out in a out building where they work / repar items it's a lumber building. Anyway they had a different one on the floor.. next time I went they had them both out there and non on the floor, LOL... last time they had one on the floor and it was clamped.. I unclamped the blade and guess what... LOL.. I couldn't get it to grab the blade.. and it seemed like the clamp was sticking on one side or the other.. I really kind of question the overall durability of that upper clamp.. Seems like an awesome well built saw..and I have contemplated buying one..just not to sure of that upper clamp.. Kevin

Oh, the plastic clamp piece on the lower arm is correct.. it only holds the barrel there in place.. other wise it'd be a pain in the rear for fret work.. once you have tension it doesn't even touch that plastic piece. If you didn't have that and broke a blade.. you probably would loose the blade barrel clamp LOL.. It can be bent down slightly for installing the blade holder into place.. actually not sure, I don't even remember if its plastic or metal..think plastic..

I also picked up an older Hawk 220VS last October.. While I haven't used it much because my comfort level was with my DeWalt and was too busy with holiday orders to try a new saw.. LOL You blade chuck etc.. looks just like mine.. so I assume you have the right one.. I have T-handle thumb screws with mine.. and I believe they was quite worn. I tried to sand them flat again but messed them up so I went to the hardware store and bought new upper and lower thumb screws and set screws with some loc-tite to keep the set screws from moving around over time. So far it's been good.. but I did also order a couple new lower barrel clamps and thumb screws from Hawk.. First upgrade I did was to get rid of that stupid blower hose that just hangs there bouncing around while sawing.. was annoying to me.. I upgraded to the newer larger hose and flexable link blower hose.. love it as now I can aim the dust to blow away from me rather than blowing it all over my lap.. Did have to drill the hole slightly larger for the hose to fit through the stand.. If I was you, I'd get some thumb screws.. maybe someone had a issue with the worn thumb screw and replaced it with a allen cap / set screw? I was wondering about the new Jet blade holders being the same or not.. I bet they would work just fine..

I have ordered my blades from them ever since Mikes Workshop sold to the new owners.. Mainly because they take PayPal.. but I will say.. they never been very quick to get orders out.. I have never had any problems with them.. I just order well before I actually run out.. One of my orders was Pegas MG #3 and #5 and the 3's came but the 5's was back ordered.. I waited mike 4-5 weeks as I sort of forgot... I think maybe they did too.. because I sent them an email about my blades.. they responded back that the blades was still back ordered.. and they was going to call Pegas and find out when to expect them and they was going to email me back later the same day... well I never got any email... I intended to email them back but kept forgetting.. anyway only 2 days later my blades was in the mail.. My guess is they actually forgot about my order and mailed them out right away.. but made up the part about messaging Pegas etc.. otherwise why didn't they message me back? I don't know really but I always wondered about them.. while I have always gotten my blades that last order with the back order has made me wonder if I should even deal with them anymore... I also wonder sometimes about whether they really have the blades in stock.. I sometimes wonder if they don't order from their supplier as their orders come in.. Not sure.. but whatever it is.. I am really skeptical and really thinking abut ordering elsewhere from now on..

Very interesting information, and yes.. the laws are very confusing to say the least.. I believe most people are either the type that doesn't know much about the copyright or trademark laws.. or the type that know a little but don't want to speak up in fear of giving the wrong or mis-leading info.. I really wish I knew more about what we can or cannot make and sell.. but it's really so confusing and complex that it really is best to just stay clear of any items that even have a slight possibility.. I am curious how the copyright / trademark holders handle these situations in general.. I know of a few cases of online sellers from venues ( etsy ebay ect ) that the company contacted the said vendor and the vendor removed the listing and gave out a warning message to the seller.. I would hope this is how it is handled.. after all.. many sellers just don't realize they are breaking the law.. then again.. many do and just don't care.. Now... if the seller just moves the items to another venue or relist the item sort of ignoring the law and are caught again.. then maybe the holder would go after them for a law suit.. I guess what I am saying is.. the language of these laws have so much jargon that most all the average sellers trying to make a little extra money doesn't understand them.. I would hope a warning is all these people would get.. but if there is a second offence then they would file a suit..? anyone know how that part of it works? Thanks again for all the replies, Kevin

What about that sheet magnet stuff? cut it to the shape of the table and lay it out on the table.. the magnet should hold it into place i would think.. Just a idea.. maybe the stuff would be too expensive for a piece big enough? I don't know.. Keep in mind that anything up ad to the table is going to effect the blade teeth position.. may not be an issue unless you use reverse teeth blades.. Wanted to add that I think maybe sears has the stuff for tool box drawer liners to help tools stay put..

Thanks to all of you for your comments.. this subject really interest me for some reason, LOL While like many have said.. I could probably sell them with no issues at all as long as there is no mention of the make / model.. that said.. I will just make other things.. not looking to be greedy off from some others design.. which the shape of the car is a design of someones.. I highly doubt one would go after me for these.. heck even Sue Mey has a clock pattern named Harley Rider with a motorcycle.. doesn't me she is right in naming it that just means maybe she hasn't been caught yet, LOL In going through the patterns here in the transportation section there are tons of patterns with the car make or model too some even have a logo in it.. I am sure it's hard to keep up with it all.. just the same for the copyright holders.. while some seek out sites... they can't possibly hit every site every day.. which is why some can go years without having any issues.. such as me.. I have sold car items online now for 6-10 years.. and used the car make and model in my title and description etc.. I probably could have continued on without any issues.. the point is.. it is the car manufactures design for the body style etc.. and truly isn't fair to them.. while maybe they don't care.. I don't know.. either way.. it's making money or using their design to make money.. and is wrong I suppose.. I've always been one to try to always do the right thing.. Thanks again for commenting.. will be watching to see if any other discussions are commented, Kevin

Okay, so if I was to make different types of car clocks, portraits etc. would the car make and model be copyright infringement? Reason I ask is.. I sell my pieces on etsy and well... several other places online.. and the other day I bought some graphics intended to be used for CNC metal signs ect.. anyway I took the image and added a base to the bottom and made a place to insert a clock.. The item was of a Dodge truck.. I put in my listing title and description the dodge diesel name.. they contact etsy and my listing was removed.. I am okay with that I didn't realize ( my mistake ) that was a trademark name or whatever.. I do my best not to do that or put anything up for sale that would be / could be if I know it that is.. LOL Anyway in light of the situation I asked a message in the etsy forums since I have a few other car themed items listed there.. I asked if I had portraits or clocks etc of cars such as Chevy Camaro or Ford Mustangs if those items would be considered a violation.. Some replies said yes.. if I used the names " Chevy Camaro " etc.. as the names are trademarked but I would be okay if I just said Car picture or clock.. Then others comment that even doing a car that resembles the car type is considered a violation.. REALLY? I don't care as it's not a life or death issue.. and there are other things I can make and sell.. but I am curious about your thoughts on this.. because quite frankly.. we have a lot of car patterns here on these pattern sites.. are all those considered copyright violation then? Some of those patterns I could understand such as the General Lee or the Starsky and Hutch Torino or back to the future Delorian.. but just any car in general? I don't know.. I have pulled my other listings of questionable things until I can sort it out.. but seems pretty extreme.. I was also told a few years ago ( when I asked in the forums ) that doing portraits of celebs etc is also a violation.. Sort of makes one think.. well what can one make and sell.. seems like everything has some sort of copyright or trademark.. What is your take on the cars being a violation? While I realize that the people replying on etsy and most likely here are not copyright Lawyers. I am still interested in your thoughts.. I intend to just take down any questionable items from my online stores.. not worth the problems to me.. Thanks, Kevin

Any time I get a new or used ( new to me ) saw.. I tune it.. while many people think these things are set up at the factory.. and maybe most are? but.. things get missed in factories too.. shift change..person on a line going through personal problems at home and don't have their mind on their work.. whatever the case.. I always check out and tune a saw before I use it.. even if the person before me set it up.. never know if a used saw is being sold.. such as this case.. breaking blades may be the reason the person sold it... because they didn't know any better..

Just a thought... but if its breaking only on one end and before you even start sawing.. maybe try flipping the blade upside down.. this could rule out if it's the clamp or the blade.. I suppose you could even saw this way but it would be backwards LOL... I would do it in some scrap wood if you are going to try to saw with the blade in upside down, LOL Kevin

The best clear finish to use is actually oil base ( latex will work as well but oil base is best ) outside house paint with no pigment added.. The store clerks will look at you in a very strange way when you ask for paint with no color added.. It will look milky / white.. but it will dry clear.. be sure to apply very lightly otherwise it will come out sort of milky haze clear. LOL .. Like others have said.. use a wood that will hold up well to outside elements will help tremendously..

That helped me.. I right clicked and learned that it was set to open with some other program I never heard of.. set it to open with windows live or something like that and now I am able to open / print again. Thank you, Kevin

Okay this isn't really scroll saw related but image related.. Running Windows 10 ( free upgrade version from windows 7 ) kids have been using my laptop to do their homework projects the last few days.. I get back on my computer and now I am unable to open any pictures from my files or my external hard drive etc.. PDF files open fine.. I just now saved a new pattern from here to my laptop and that also doesn't open.. so it's not something to do with the old files.. I get a error message that says "class not registered" Anyone have any ideas what they did? was working fine until yesterday.. I had tried to reboot, changed my default browser back to edge from firefox etc.. Not real computer savvy but usually can figure these things out.. just frustrated with this one because I have some patterns to print and I cannot open the patterns up.. Grrr Thanks to anyone that might be able to help me fix this.. Kevin

Glad you was able to get it running quiet and smooth.. I take my saw apart every year during the slower periods to tune it and re-grease it up.. I use it a lot.. and once a year might be a little over kill.. but it is the only saw I have for now.. and I can't afford to have it down during peek selling time.. so I find it easier to just tune it and maintain it during one of the slower months.. though I am getting busy enough that slow months are getting harder to get, LOL One day very soon I am going to splurge and get the EX-21 I have been drooling over for several years, LOL Or maybe grab a used DeWalt deal I might run across on craigslist etc.

I bought a cheap arbor press from Harbor Freight for like $40... But honestly they press in really easy and I think if you was careful they could be done just on a bench vise...

I would have to hear it and see it run.. but I would bet it is the tension rod.. That saw is different from a DeWalt but still basic design.. I have rebuilt my DeWalt with new bearings etc only after a couple years.. so it also could be the bearings and sleeve for the eccentric.. They use a cheap grease and very sparingly.. First time i did it I only cleaned up the bearings and re- greased them with a high quality synthetic grease.. The issue was they was already worn and needed replaced...however that helped a great deal until I could order the new bearings and wait until a slow down in sales to be able to take it back apart and press out the old and press in the new bearings.. On another note... I found that the worst ware and tare on my saw seems to be the lower arm bearing at the front of the saw.. should have been designed with sealed bearings because all that sawdust falls down into these bearings.. I take it apart once a year and clean up these and re lube it.. Kevin

Thanks for the tips.. I did do numbers 1-3.. but the only good section of wood I had wasn't the straightest grained.. Maybe that was the issue..

The edge grained ones I did started out at 1-3/4" thick.. by the time I got them to a nice flat board they are down to about 7/8 inch thich, LOL The one I just did is a normal face grained boards that I ripped to size and glued the edges together.. made from the walnut and oak.. and it started out at about a 1-1/4 inch and I have it down to about 3/4" now.. The finish I used was by watco butcher block oil.. Love the finish this makes, and the water when washing just beads up and runs right off it. I put on two fairly wet coats ( sanding with 400grit in between coats ) then a nice light coat.. been using it since July and getting washed many times a day (some days). It is starting to get some cut marks on it and I plan to sand it down in the next few days for a recoating..

Not really scroll saw related but is a woodworking item.. Back in the summer I made a cutting board.. came out real nice and the wife loved it.. so she wanted me to make a couple for Christmas gifts. I made some edge grained ones this time one of these boards had warped right as soon as I run it through the planner it comes out wobbly on diagonal corners but the other opposite corners are nice and flat.. both sides this way.. I finally just let it set aside for a couple months and then did another clean up through the planner and seems to be fine.. Now I just made another but with the normal flat grain from walnut and red oak.. same issue .. How do they make these things so they don't do this?? Any tips? I don't mind having to give it another try but I don't have months to wait for the board to do whatever it is doing over time.. LOL I am guessing I shouldn't have used red oak for one thing.. that wood you can almost watch it warp after planning it nice and flat, LOL Anyway... Looking for tips on making some cutting boards instead of flat bowls, LOL Kevin