kmmcrafts

I would say every 2 years is probably what I would do if I was to take the time to do it properly.. Maybe a weekend hobby person every 3-4 years.. but it does really boil down to how much use and abuse it gets.. so its difficult to really put a time frame without really knowing the run time of the saw..

Yes @Rolf has one and he probably could tell you more than I could on this specific saw model since I have not first hand with the particular model.. That being said the G426 is almost identical to the newest model saw ( a BM-26 ) which I do have.. Most of the parts for the BM-26 are shared with the G426 so really i think they're the same saw other than a different bearing set up on the motor itself. This saw was always known as the Cadillac of the Hawks and it sounds good to me in the video.. looks to be in good shape. I don't think it's been used much at all as there is no visible marks on the table top.. it looks to have the factory swirl marks on the top from being machined.. My new saw with almost 500 hours on it has worn the machining marks off so I'd say it has not all that much time on it. Not sure about your location.. but most of the G426 saws in my area are priced $600 and up so I'd say it's priced good. If it was close to me I'd be all over that.. I'd like to get a G426 just to mess around with and compare to my saw, LOL.. I would think if you didn't like it you should be able to get more than that out of it if you sold it.. Not sure how long she's had it listed.. but If anyone knows these saws in the area I would say it won't be there long.. At least in the market in my area..

I have some Trap and Skeet shooting designs done but haven't had the chance to make them yet..

I get a lot of request for engraving on the woodworker one. Flight nurse, painter one and this shooting range one. So to make space to do so I modify the patterns with the spot below like this one. Then engrave it upon request. I do not offer engraving but when asked I do them until I get too busy to do them.

Well it was the same way the last two + years for this one so I don't know when you posted it but most buyers are buying as small gifts for woodworker family and friends.. I get a gazillion request for different dog breeds.. which I do most of the request.. it's fairly easy in inkscape to place a silhouette of prefered dog breed and stack cutting has benefitted me because many have asked for the same dog breeds, LOL Still have some Labrador and Shepherds in stock.. but sold out of the original design.

The woodworker and his dog one.. I sold out again yesterday and I'm tired of making it so I relisted it as made to order and 15 days before it would be in the mail.. Still have 15 people having it in their shopping cart, lol .. This is just on Etsy.. I also have them on Amazon so that's kind of a double whammy... It's not hard to make but it does have all the small cutouts for the tablesaw that just annoys me to do so many of..

Thank you That is my favorite one too, that said I posted both on my personal facebook page and many commented on that one however I have several wanting the Paster one... My messenger gone crazy with messages of people asking to get one.. I would have thought someone would have claimed at least 1 of the cross ones.. Oh well, My favorite isn't always what everyone else's favorite is.. Needless to say I've got to run a few more batches of the Paster one.

I had his site bookmarked but then all of a sudden it quit working.. Then someone mentioned he made it a private site or something and you had to sign up to gain access to the site or something.. somehow I was able to get back in for a while but it stopped working so I haven't been on there in a long time.. I have many of the patterns and made many of them.. just be nice to go back and see what all is there again but it's kind of a hassle trying to get access too.. Maybe he has opened it back up now.. I think people were selling his patterns or something so he made it members only.. or something.. don't remember the details now.. Maybe I'll try google search and see if I can get on the site again.

Fortunately, I'm never done with ornaments, LOL.. they are my favorite to make and I make them all year long.. That said.. I do get burn out on making certain ones that tend to have a lot of inside cuts and people buy them like crazy. I made 50 to have in inventory and sold through them before November.. so I've cut a batch Stack cutting 5 at a time 4 ornaments to a blank making 20 in a batch.. I've done made 4 more batches since then and I just sold out again last night.. Making another batch this morning.. so yeah, I'm getting tired of cutting that one style.. But this last batch will get me through the rest of this year I believe as things should be winding down soon.. I'll take a break from sawing and do my bookkeeping / tax prep and by the time that's all done I'll be ready to hit the saw for next years inventory..

The locknut on the Pegas chucks is a joke.. Sorry but this is one minor flaw of the Pegas chucks.. They think because they put that locknut on that the set screw will not turn.. I ran into this same thing with my chucks.. I also didn't like the long screw and the nut just gives added weight to the chucks.. Now that you have it back to square keep an eye on it because it'll move again on its own.. What I did to combat that issue was remove the locknut and set screw and used a shorter one from a Excalibur and use blue loc-tite on it.. no issues after that.. For some reason the threads tolerance on the locknut and the set screw tend to be on the loose side which allows the set screw to spin still.. Probably in my own head but I swear the saw runs even smoother without the added weight of the locknut and longer set screw, LOL

I miss ARPOP, use to see a lot of nice work from them.. I haven't seen them in a long time.. they still doing patterns somewhere that I'm not aware of?

As a gift for being an awesome customer and for them placing a couple nice sized orders I decided even though I’m busy I wanted to make a special gift to give them so I worked a little extra late today and made these on the laser. Going to send one of each in this next batch of clocks that I’m mailing out tomorrow. I hope they like these and it could be a potential seller to them next time if there is a next time. I usually do a small gift gesture when I get a large order like these. BTW took a half ( 30 x 30) of bbply to finally get these designs to work. Get a laser they said, it’s easy just push the button and the parts spit out at you. Yeah okay maybe but a lot of scrap parts come out fast too.

Not sure why I haven't posted this before.. Just in case you didn't know if you sign up for their newsletter email they give out a free ornament pattern every month.. sometimes they are a pretty basic ornament while other times they have some pretty nice ones.. This is a screen capture of this months ornament they just emailed me today.. You likely wouldn't get this one if you sign up now but it might be worth it for a free 12 ornament patterns every year.. Most I've never used as they are not my style but someone here might like them.. To sign up just go to their site and a screen pops up to subscribe... https://woodenteddybear.com/

I have yet to buy any saw that was ready tuned and ready for work straight out of the box.. with the exception of the Hawk.. the two new Hawks I purchased was in fact tuned and square blade to table ext.. but Hawk also test every saw before it leaves the factory.. and the owners ( small family business ) are scroll sawers too so they know how to use the saws.. I believe Ray at Seyco also tunes the saws before they are sent out.. Not sure about Hegner but I assume they might be tuned too.. My point is.. you really do get exactly what you pay for when buying the mid range or lower saws.. My new table saw, miter saw, bandsaw, and not a single scroll saw was exactly tuned and running true aside from those mentioned above .. That said, yeah it would of worked straight out of the box.. just not work correctly.. I expect that I would have to tune any new saw purchase.. The people making them are just assembly line workers and probably most don't even know how to use one of the saws they are making..

Probably wouldn't hold up very long for how i would use it.. but it'd be nice to have something like this to spray a finish on projects without having to walk around the project or hold onto it somewhere while trying to spray it too, LOL...

Maybe the tension rod is too tight.. or maybe too loose on the old saw.. I think they would want the rod adjusted so the upper arm would be parallel to the saw table when the arm is all the way down without a blade in it.. At least that is how it's done on the Excalibur saws.. The issue is on the DeWalt you have to take the tension lever and the top switch plate etc. apart to make any adjustment to it... where a Excalibur or similar saw has the knob at the back of the saw to adjust that.. If it saws alright and the blade fits.. maybe just use it unless there is a issue. maybe eventually it'll wear down enough to be like the old saw,

You could call Bushton with the serial number and they would tell you what motor it came with.. I do not know for sure but I think the problem motors were only on the older saws with the round barrel clamps.. My old 220VS had the problem motor however I gave 100 for the saw and figured if it made 100 in sellable product I'd break even + gain the knowledge I desired to know about Hawk saws, LOL.. The saw never gave me a problem while I had it and pretty sure the person ( member here ) that bought it is still using it. Like Ray said, try to offer less and see what happens. If you can get it for less then if you don't like it you should be able to recoup your money easier.. Depends on how fast the seller wants to move it and if they know the saw or not.. In all the saws I've bought.. the seller was just wanting to clean house after a parent either went to assisted living or passed on.. so bargaining was pretty easy to do.. since they knew nothing about the saws.. That's how I got the Hegner for free.. the guy didn't know it was missing the blade clamps.. he knew he had them as his dad used the saw.. be he didn't even now what they looked like and he had already threw a big dumper full of stuff out.. he said if I didn't take it he was putting it in the new dumpster they just dropped off.. I couldn't let that happen.. Lucky for me I had blade clamps from another estate sale that I bought a box of blade and in the bottom was a bunch of Hegner clamps and springs misc parts. LOL Anyway give Bushton a call with the serial number.. they'll tell you the year of the saw and if they have any service records on it etc. I don't know what these sell for in your area but $450 is a okay deal near me.. $350 or less would be ideal in my area and would get my attention, LOL.. but I don't think $450 is bad price as it is.. just better the lower you can get it for. I see them in my area price range from $400 - 650 for that same condition saw.. so 450 is okay.. less is better

To bad you wasn't closer to me.. I could provide wood, patterns and blades and you could make some of my orders while trying a Hawk.. don't like the Hawk you could also use my Hegner.. The saw does look to be in nice shape. I think it looks like one of the better Ultra models so it should have the decent clamps. Not really a lot to look for on these saws really.. The wedge shaped thing on the tension mechanism at the back of the saw.. with no tension on the blade this should be able to lift it up and look at the pointed edge of it where it rides on the upper arm.. should be a pretty sharp point on it and not all rounded over.. If it is rounded it can be just sanded on a flat surface.. from what I can tell in the photo of it.. it looks pretty decent but just something to look at.. not too expensive to replace. The other thing is when you tension the blade the front lever should "lock down" against the arm and when you let go of it or when running the saw it should stay locked down.. IF it pops up some it could be a worn tension cam.. can be replaced easily but it's something to look for.. it could also just be out of adjustment.. seller doesn't need to know that though and could be a bargaining point for a lower price.. Another bargaining point could be if it only comes with one lower clamp.. The lamp comes out of the saw for blade changes just like the Hegner. If you look at the photo you will see two holes in the accessory arm.. that it where you place the round pin of the blade clamp to hold it to loosen the thumb screw so you can remove the blade or to tighten it down. The clamp will have a notch in it where it'll go unto the top of the accessory arm with the round pin in the hole.. The lower arm will have to slots for the blade holder to fit into.. the front slot is for a less aggressive cut or cutting thin stock. The farther back slot is for cutting thicker stock or a more aggressive cut.

Well, they must have liked the clocks I made for them.... Now we get a second round of them to make, LOL...

Well, I've pondered long enough on deciding what ones of the 150+ ornaments that I sell to post on here,LOL.. Honestly some of the best ones I like are actually done on the laser but I didn't want to offend anyone on the scroll saw site so I'll stick to the scroll sawn ones.. My favorites to make and most popular sellers are mostly career themed.. so I'll post a few of the more popular ones.. and a couple that I really like but really not popular sellers..

Yeah I think it could save from buying that assembly every few years. I think repacking bearings every 200ish hours would be a good idea.. I mentioned before that you cannot get just single bearings and sleeves and you can only get the whole link arm assembly. Something I want to try and look into is the Jet saw parts.. I have a hunch that the bearings and sleeves for the Jet is probably the same parts.. Jet sells just the bearings and sleeves individually so next time I have a issue with a bearing.. I'm going to try ordering the parts from Jet and compare to see.. Pretty sure it's probably the same set of bearings and sleeves.. I had DeWalt bearings for when I had my DeWalt.. many bearings was the same but the inner sleeves are different so I couldn't use them on my Excalibur and I searched for the sleeves everywhere.. they are a oddball size and maybe special made or in house made for the Excalibur.. Jet saws are real similar and the parts list breakdown shows them individual.. appears to be able to order them separately from ereplacementparts.. Worth a try..

I think the only sealed bearing in these is the one that goes onto the motor. All others are a needle bearing with a sleeve insert.

Well these two here are the common ones I've seen on the inside of the saw.. since you didn't replace the rocker arms at the front of the saw I think it's likely one of those two spots but it could be one of the others.. These days anything possible to get past quality control.

Well, sure has been some good info in this topic... I think I repaired the saw without replacing the switch.. I mentioned in the post with the photos that one of the terminals the solder only had 2 strands of wire connected.. and the other strands were almost touching the other terminal.. I think it was vibrating enough that maybe they was shorting out on that other terminal.. I reconnected the other strands on a hunch that this might be happening.. I just ran the saw for about an hour and no issues at all.. Used to be you just touch the dial and the saw would jump from fast to about half speed or slower without even turning the dial.. just touching it would do that.. Now I'm able to touch it and move it.. seems to be working very smooth throughout the range.. I believe this fixed the issue.. Somewhat off topic but on solder topic.. In the auto repair industry they do not recommend soldering anymore.. years ago that was the way to do wire repairs but due to vibration and heat cold cycles and age solder with form very small cracks.. and lose a good contact / connection.. I cannot tell you how many digital dash repairs I've had to do on some of the 80's cars.. It's also very common on some Chevy models.. probably others too.. common on the information center in a cars dash.. currently experiencing that on my 2011 Chevy Traverse.. the info center works at night but not in the daytime.. it's due to a weak solder joint on the circuit board in the dash cluster.. All of this auto info is what sparked my interest in the possibility of that being the issue with the scroll saw.. That upper arm where the switches are mounted gets a lot of vibration.. not only from the saw running but raising and lowering the arm.. So with that said.. if you have a variable speed issue.. check the solder connections before throwing parts at it that it may not need.. On the car dashes.. the solder "looks good" however if you remove it and re-solder it they work great.. so there is just micro cracks within the solder that are not visible to the eyes.. maybe under a magnifier or something but not just normal eyesight. It's worth just heating the solder up and remelting it before buying parts..

Did you happen to find anything obvious wrong with the old drive link? Just curious as to what the actual problem might have been.. especially for it to all of a sudden start banging.. Though, I will say that many times equipment gradually start getting louder or making a slight noise that goes unnoticed until it lets loose, and wakes us up saying we have a problem, LOL.. Anyway, glad to hear it's back up and running great..