kmmcrafts

I asked this a few years back and Weld Bond was what I was directed to at that time.. I used it a few times and so far seems to be doing the job fine. It was just light work to hold a painted backer to a cutting that hangs on the wall so there isn't much if any stress to the pieces I did with the Weld Bond.

Just for safety reasons I put my blades in upside down and facing the back of the saw so it's harder for me to lose a finger, .. safest way to use a scroll saw.. burns through the wood quite a lot slower but they always say if you're rushing that's when you get careless and get hurt. safety first...

That might work but also might not be usable for the desired finish after the project is done too. I've not had much of a problem with this ever since I started sanding the plywood down to a very smooth surface ( 320 grit ). I've also read that you can spray mineral spirits on to help loosen the glue, I have not tried that method yet but plan to one of these days. I have used a hair drier on heat setting and it loosens up the glue as well, if electric is an issue or your spouse doesn't allow you to touch the hair drier.. you can just set it out in the direct sunlight for an hour or so and it'll also loosen up the glue. Tip for those that might try the heating method... I've found that if you heat it up and then forget or wait too long and it cools down some... it's stuck even worse than before and will require more heat than you applied previously to get it to loosen up again. This brings me to this thought.. If you apply the pattern in cool weather and it takes you weeks / months / years / centuries to finish the project... this could need heat such as a bonfire to get that pattern off.. seriously though, I try to finish a project asap once the pattern has been applied, I don't like leaving that pattern on there any longer than I have too as the longer it's on there the more stuck it tends to get, and will likely need heat or maybe that mineral spirits to get it off there without damaging the project.

I must be lame because I've been scrolling since around 2005 and only changed the angle of my saw maybe 2-3 times, and that was just to do an experiment.. I can say though with just my real limited angle cutting that If I were to do much angle cutting I'd have to have a Pegas or Ex saw that the head tilts instead of the table.. This tool looks like it'd be real handy to have, I always wanted to try making some bowls.. and now that I have about 500bft of walnut lumber I might have to give it a try since fretwork style cuttings from dark walnut really doesn't look great and the fine cut lines are hard to see since the wood is so dark. I have a lot of spalted maple too that I need to use up.. sounds like I just talked myself into buying this tool and making some bowls.. Thanks

Never know I suppose it could work better. My thinking is that it's probably not going to make much if any difference because the set screw is just stationary while the thumb screw is the one you spin / turn to clamp the blade down. I think this spinning insert is to help prevent blade bending when getting clamped.. Though I have had saws that don't have the swivel end inserts and not had any issues with bent blades etc. Though to be a fair comparison those saws have what I would call floating blade chucks where the chuck pivots on a roll pin or similar where the EX and DW saws have a pretty ridged blade chuck holder to the arm, if that makes any sense.

Just to expand on what Dick said with some maintenance tips. Make sure the little O-ring on the tip inserts are clean and lubed with a non petroleum grease ( I use electrical grease ) so they spin in the end of the screw easily. Also take a brush and clean off the threads of the thumb screw and put a drop of oil on them so they spin nicely in the blade chuck. Be careful not to get the oil on the tips. I sometimes just take the tips out of the end and will spray the threads with a dry lube and thread it in and out a couple times while still wet. Let the dry lube set for a while to make sure it dries and then replace the inserts. Being mechanically inclined I learned early on that those screw threads get fine dust on them and start working harder because of the dirt grit in the threads which also forces you to use more pressure to tighten them down to get the same clamping power as the new set did. Blades are covered in a light oil film to prevent rusting.. many people will sand each blade as they put them in the saw to remove that oil film.. seemed time consuming to me to take that time everytime you change a blade you pick up a piece of sand paper and sand each end. Before I unwind the wire wrap on a bundle of blades I spray the whole bundle with brake parts cleaner. Since I'm a shade tree mechanic so to speak these items I always have on hand anyway.. maybe you have some sort of other cleaners / degreasers that'd work too.. No real need to use the specific products I mentioned.. I will say my dry lube stuff is real nice stuff and I use that stuff on many things.. even the wheels on my lawn mower rolls real easy because of the dry lube. ( link to that below ) https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Chemical-Company-Garage-Lubricants/dp/B0002JM8G8/ref=asc_df_B0002JM8G8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5268469846224814805&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017285&hvtargid=pla-762199117192&psc=1 Maintaining a saw will help it run smoother and last a long time.. most people don't do the little things.. When I bought my DeWalt back in 2006 everyone said to buy extra blade chucks and those thumb screws etc.. I sold that saw in 2018 and never did use the extra parts. Electrical grease link: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-Protects-electrical-connections-from-salt-dirt-corrosion-33-oz-tube-sold-by-tube/441032868?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101002903&adid=22222222227441032868_101002903_154681487172_18800123971&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=659723182006&wl4=aud-1651068663986:pla-1959962190206&wl5=9017285&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=136582778&wl11=online&wl12=441032868_101002903&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw-IWkBhBTEiwA2exyO6X3p3Y_HG1rU2P0AQDC_0CqEcpFW5e0TdA_NU41NenKkoKqilod6xoCPD0QAvD_BwE

The why could be just a matter of opinion.. like, why do some prefer to use a slow cutting speed and why do some like to run a saw full blast. In my case, back in the day I always wondered what was so special about a DeWalt and then I got one and learned why for myself and at the time most were saying stay away from the type 2 saw which is what I bought. Then I wanted to know what was so special and why was Excaliburs were so highly spoke of over the DeWalt since there isn't much difference in the set up and build of them.. Same for why everyone raved over the quality of Hawks and Hegners.. The only "real" way you're going to know is borrow a saw that has them or buy a set to try.. Your opinion of them may not be so substantial as they are for many of us that have them and love them. I have seen postings on FB where there were some ( very few ) that don't really care for them and wished they had not spent the money. Scott ( Iggy ) bought a new Pegas saw and didn't like it so he sold it or gave it away which is what he also did with the new Hawk he bought some years ago.. He likes his DeWalts... It'd be nice if each town had a scroll saw dealer like car dealerships where we could go test drive different saws and have different options for dust collector set-ups etc. etc. but we don't.. most of us just have to bite the bullet and buy things to try.. and hope we like it or would be able to recoop most our money reselling if we don't.. which is why I mess around with so many saws.. which most are used and at a great deal where I can get a profit if I resell it.. Something I've learned a great deal about in the scroll sawing hobbies is... take everyone's suggestions for blade types, saw types, project types with a grain of salt because maybe I'm the only oddball of the bunch but many times people say to run the saw slow or use this small #1 or 3 blade to cut 1" thick material.. what I've learned is just dive in head first and find what works for me because I seem to like just about the opposite of what everyone else suggest,

For me the difference was: You can actually see in that gap between the thumb screw and set screw to see "where" the top of the blade is.. so you can see the screws clamping the blade. Also my EX-21 clamps had a top to the gap that if for whatever reason one blade was longer you'd have to cut it or readjust the saw to fit the odd blade.. The Pegas clamp is a open slot so if you wanted to clamp a hacksaw blade, LOL I guess it might be possible, For me it is a better experience to use the Pegas clamps over the original EX ones.. I can't say I noticed any difference in vibration as per the claim of less.. I think if one tunes their saw they can achieve just as smooth operation from either clamp style.. so I wouldn't rush to just go buy the Pegas clamps unless you are having some issue with the original ones.. Just my opinion though..

That new batch you are waiting on will probably have a much bigger price tag??

Not from the UK nor do I have any first hand experience with this saw.. BUT, that said I believe it is basically the same saw as what we all know as the King, or Pegas... which are one of the top saws talked about in the states. I see it comes with the Pegas blade chucks which is an improvement so I'd think with that upgrade from the factory they are a quality saw. UK has different electrical standards than the states so I have no idea on the foot switch. We run our saws with a foot switch as you mentioned ( foot switch plugs into power and then saw plugs into foot switch. Many of these saws in the states come with the foot switch.. or at least a upgrade option.. I seen no mention of it on the axminster site, but I would think if you can get a foot switch with the correct power cord and requirements then you should be good to go with a foot switch.

Really depends on what my project is as to what brand and blade I'm using.. I use 4 different brands... Flying Dutchman, Olsen, Pegas, and P.S. Woods Super Sharps. Majority of work is with Pegas followed by Flying Dutchman.. Other two brands are rarely used but I do have those certain projects that I will use the others.. If I had only one brand choice Pegas would be the winner hands down..

Nice score Bob!! You'll enjoy that saw for many years.

I miss those old days and many of the people from back then. I started out sawing around 2005-6 and I was a active yahoo group member in many tractor and car groups / clubs and actually ran a couple of the tractor clubs.. Then when yahoo changed from clubs? to groups I sort of lost interest in yahoo's platform etc.. and I actually found scroll saw groups on MSN groups? and there were several of them but my favorite was "Free4All Scroll Saw Patterns" .. the people there were so friendly and many pattern designers. When I'd ask for a photo to pattern within about a couple hours time 4-6 people did a pattern and you had several designs of your image done into a pattern to choose from. Sadly MSN groups came to an end and I was back at the SSW&C's site again ( which was what I found first but didn't seem like as friendly of a group of folks ). Then Free4All opened a website and I moved to it, it was pretty good site but not as good as the massive group of folks that was on the MSN groups. I found the village sometime around the same time frame as the new Free4All site but wasn't too active here until Free4All shut down and then I kinda hung out at SSW&C for a while but they changed servers or something and it was down for way longer than expected and when they did come back they lost another bunch of good people and to me the site has been pretty dead ever since then. Currently, I mostly just come here to the village.. I'm on several of the FB groups but to be honest I don't like the format of the FB groups.. and I know you can turn off certain notifications etc. but turning them off I miss some that I would like to get but on the other hand I don't post much on there groups because I get notified every time someone post a reply or a message.. The algorithm sucks because if I like or comment in one group then it hides all the content from the other groups.. It's just very poorly done in my opinion.. but it may work well for the majority of folks I don't know. I think Scrollers Cafe could be a great place to hang out too but again the forum format is kind of clunky to me.. and hard to follow along. just shows how important a sites navigation, ease of use, and overall appearance is very important.

I'll be selling the majority of them.. It'll be about 4-6 weeks before I get possession of them and have them on the website.

I ordered a split order, half of them with each of the clock faces below. The first picture they told me is the more popular one they make.

Price is same with or without so purchasing the batteries is extra cost to me if I order without.. It's easier to just try selling the extras off.. and if I don't sell all of them I can buy batteries for the remaining. I think the place I get the clocks from order the seiko motors from Japan and they come with the batteries so if I order without then they have to take them out and dispose them. That was my understanding anyhow..

Sorry to hear about the loss of your wife, I know you say she has been gone for 6 years but I'm not sure it gets any easier.. Happy anniversary to you and happy heavenly anniversary to her. We've been married 30 years this Sept. 11th. I'd do it all over again and if I could change anything it'd be finding and marrying her sooner,

Jerry, I buy factory direct and order them to my specification. ie Most all the other clock suppliers sell what's called a "economy" clock and they have a reverse engineered china made motor and the clock case is made of plastic with plastic spring clips that hold them into the hole. As a clock maker myself I kept having customer complaints about the china made motors not keeping time, not running, etc. and also many many complaints of the spring clips getting brittle over time and breaking when they try to change the battery or the time. SO frustrated as a seller to be selling my beautiful creations with a inferior clock set in so I went on a mission to find the seller that sold the best clocks money could buy.. I purchased 2-3 clocks from every online and searched and looked local to find a good quality clock.. It turns out that most all the suppliers was selling the same junk. In my 2 year long research I somehow stumbled upon the actual company that makes the clocks and reached out to them.. Turns out, I could custom order the clocks however I wanted them.. SO now I order factory direct custom made with all metal casings with friction gasket fit instead of the spring clips and the Seiko PC-21 clock motor with a real mineral glass lens instead of all plastic case and lens with cheap china made motors. The caveat is I have to order in large quantity.. I'm okay with that so long as I'm getting a quality product to use in my own crafts and then I sell them too at a big discount from what you'd get IF you ordered the same "quality" clock.. I'm selling high end clock inserts for the same price as most other sellers are selling the cheap plastic ones.. There are a few places that still sell the all metal clocks like I sell but you're paying $22 - 29 each for them too.. See clockparts.com prices... I'm not really making a profit on the clocks but rather just trying to move them out of my inventory hopefully before the batteries go bad. I try to sell enough to get a new supply every 1 - 1.5 years so I'm not setting on a bunch of clocks with dead batteries and having to supply new batteries.. See next paragraph, LOL Unfortunately my wife last year tried to help "organize" my inventory and she found my clocks in two separate places.. I did that on purpose because one location was a old batch and the other location was a new batch.. not knowing she put them all together.. so now I don't know which ones are the older batch or the new ones.. some of the older batch had bad batteries.. so now I have about 600 clocks and about 100 - 150 is old with bad batteries.. I don't warranty the batteries anyway but I also want my customers to get a good new battery with the clock like is advertised.. so now I'm sending out a new battery with the clocks and the customer might get one of the old clocks with bad battery or they might get a newer clock with a good battery.. if they get a newer clock then they get a bonus extra battery.

You'll need at least two because when someone sees one they'll want theirs Roman numeral too, .. I won't have any in the 1-7/16 size, the ones I ordered are 2" clocks. Funny most scroll patterns use the 1-7/16 but the 2" seem to be the most popular sellers for me.

For those that use clock inserts, what is your preference Arabic or Roman numbers? I realize it could depend upon the project at hand but just trying to figure out if the order I just placed is going to actually sell. I wanted a few of the Roman clocks so in order to get them I had to order a large quantity and now hoping I'm not going to be setting on 1000 clock inserts for years, LOL I know I'll sell some because I'm always getting asked if I have any Roman or if I'll be getting any in the future. I don't personally like them but maybe they're more popular with others, I've always had the oddball opinion in most things so I have to ask for yours. Anyway, Arabic or Roman?

I used to burn edges sometimes while cutting Cherry mainly, and used to be terrible at it with Cherry until I learned to let the blade do the cutting... however since I switched from FD blades to Pegas MGT blades I have not ever had the issue.. I do tend to "like" to cut faster than slower.. not because I'm in a hurry to get products made, I'm just not one to like to watch paint dry so to speak, LOL. Everyone has their desired comfort methods and mine is cutting with the saw running pretty fast.. around 1500 ish strokes per min. so with the Excalibur it runs full speed on the dial.

I've read about the paraffin wax so I got some a few years ago and I have to say "for me" I didn't see / notice any difference in cutting or blade life.. Maybe it works better for certain types / styles/ saw set-ups than others? I don't know but it wasn't worth the effort or money to buy the wax in my experience.

Only thing new I can add that hasn't already been said is jigsaw puzzles.. the kind where you laminate a photo to the 1/8 - 1/4 BBply and cut into a puzzle. I tried regular ply for that once and it was a disaster.. but the BBply has good strength and no voids. I don't make many puzzles anymore but noticed that one hadn't been mentioned yet. I use it for most the other things that others have mentioned already.

I've said many times that I do wax my saw tables depending on how much use at least once a month and a couple times a year I also wax the whole saw stand and all.. The fine sawdust falls completely to the floor instead of sticking the the machine and stands.. much easier to take the vac and clean up the shop a lot better plus it wards off any corrosion that might try to set in.. Keeps the equipment looking good and well cared for even though I run the heck outta my saws.. they all look new still..

Man, I hope what I had read in the past was just a misunderstanding from whoever posted it. If it's anything like my old Dewalt you'll love it and should be trouble free for a lot of years. I production cut with mine for 4 years before it needed anything. Production cutting is probably an understatement too.. I ran the heck out of that saw.