kmmcrafts

Steve Good reviewed the Jet ( I believe it was the 22" model but basically same saw but a bit larger) on his blog a couple maybe 3-4 years ago? I believe Jet sets their prices and the distributors have to sell them at Jets prices so anywhere local or online that sells Jet scroll saws should have them or can order you one so long as Jet is running their sale.. They typically run a percentage off all Jet tools type sale.. I've seen it before on the Woodcraft website.. I have a local family run lumber store that sells Jet tools so that is where I would go if I were going with a Jet.. I like the idea of the upper dual action blade clamp design.. but I have heard of issues with it jamming if you clamp it and it's not adjusted properly for that size blade etc.. I don't know and only heard of a couple complaints.. Anyway, I've eyeballed that 18" saw for a few years now.. Your analogy of the dump truck can play the other way too... like driving a ford pinto to the gravel yard to get 7 yard of stone.. LOL I do agree though I have 2 Hawk 26" saws and a Excalibur 21" saw..... There have "occasionally" been maybe 10 times in the last 15 years that I actually needed more than the 21" saw.. However.. I did used to have a Delta SS350 16" saw that I quite often had to go over to the deWalt 20" saw because the 16 wasn't quite large enough to do the cut.. Bigger projects sometimes sneak into your to do list and it really sucks to try to haul gravel in that ford pinto.. Edit: Maybe I'm wrong, I see most places selling the 18" Jet for around $850.. Home Depot has is at $709.. That's not a bad deal..

Hard to say what it is without actually being there to see what's going on, but my first thought was.. I see it's not really bolted down.. having a saw just sitting on a bench not securely bolted down can make a lot of noise and vibration.. though the sound I hear really doesn't sound like a unbolted saw but I feel like I'm hearing several different levels of noise which may hinder the diagnose process.. sometimes microphones can pick up sounds and play back in video that otherwise might not really be heard too. When I took my saw apart for rebuild I think when I put the rod and tension assembly back together I adjusted it until I had tension on the tension adjuster lever then i think I gave it another 1-2 turns is all.. I never had any noise.. but I did have that kind of tight.. Now that I've taken several saws apart.. I'm thinking that maybe it is important to have it adjusted somewhat properly.. It's been 10 years since I worked on a DeWalt but I would think you want the upper arm to be Parallel to the table front of saw to the back or very close.. I would think too tight might make the upper arm not come down far enough and too loose would come down too far? Gosh it's been a long time since I mess with the DW saws.. Did you take any bearings apart at the front of the saw or just inside the saw at the back by the motor? For me I had issues with the fine sawdust getting into the bearings etc. at the front lower ( sawdust drops down onto the lower bearings ) and absorbs the moisture that's in the grease creating a dried / caked up bearing.. If you haven't taken the front portion apart.. I might check there if adjusting that rod doesn't do anything.. It to me doesn't sound like that classic rob hitting the metal covers. Sounds like a bad bearing somewhere to me.. but again.. not being bolted down might be noises I'm hearing too.

Yeah they'll probably repair or replace it, Some of the service places are good and some not so much so it'd depend on which center it goes to.. It could be a long wait though.. I've seen people saying several weeks before they got it back. I would talk to Home Depot and see if they'll exchange it first..

Maybe I need to make TV trays with a dowel rod for a roll of paper towels..

Interesting! Now I guess if I ever paint puzzles I'll need some metal rod. Do you cut with a larger blade than for puzzles that are not painted? Seems like paint would fill in the tiny already tight slot that the puzzles fit into.. I've only recently started "painting" wood things.. its been a learning experience from painting cars going to wood crafts.. LOL

I guess I've never fell into the "gotta make the new fad" gang.. I just make things I like OR what customers ask for. One I remember getting a lot of request for was the fidget spinners.. seems there was wands too back in the Harry Potter days.. Never did either even though I was asked because one, at the time I was more artistic in what I was making and I seen no art in fidget spinners plus I didn't want to fool with getting bearings etc... Didn't have a lathe at the time of the wand fad.

The thing with sending it back is if it's due to cold temps the new one will likely be the same way.. I've seen a lot of topics about that issue in the cold months.. That being said, mine always ran fine after a few minutes of cutting.. so if yours is doing it every time you try to use it even after running it for 15 -20 minutes then you probably should return it if you can. IF it's not cold where you are it very well could be a bad bearing or something making it hard for the saw to get started..

Welcome to the village!! So you're saying that the saw runs IF you sort of help it along but runs fine once you give it some help? Mine used to do that in cold weather.. at the time I had a unheated shop and live in Michigan where temps regularly around 25F during the day time.. However I'd start having this issue at around 40F.. It got to where in the cold winter I would take a small heater and place it at the back of the saw for a few minutes to sort of warm up the motor.. Then it was fine for the rest of the day.. Might be something to consider if this started as temps come down if you live in a cool climate area.. Also have you checked the motor brushes? Maybe a possibility there..

I just thought of something... IF you're budget is the issue and you want to go with a saw sold "as new" you might also look for refurbish / reconditioned saws online.. Many of the tools I have I bought new with a "limited warranty" but they have never given me any issues.. the only issue I have had with them is the extra money in my pocket and what to buy next with it, That being said, Bearwood is now offering refurbished Pegas saws.. you might want to look at those.. maybe give it a few weeks and see if they run any Black Friday deals on top of the discounted price.. https://www.bearwood.com/product8099.html I'd much rather do business with Denny at Artcrafters.. but I don't think he is offering the refurbished ones.. maybe he will, might not hurt to ask him about it.

I think these are the newer version to what I have, I've had mine for about 5 years and they don't sell them anymore. In fact mine broke a couple weeks ago.. and I seen these but wasn't sure if they was good and I knew I liked the ones I had so I searched eBay and found a pair.. unfortunately I should have bought these I think.. The old ones are just getting old and even though they was new in the box.. the battery only last a day on my new / old one that I just bought. The old pair that broke I'd only have to charge about once a month and I use them probably at least an hour every day.. they went a long time. I put this pair you show here on my birthday / Christmas list for this year as I'm annoyed that I have to keep this eBay pair on the charger all the time. Hopefully they'll be good like the ones that broke.. went to put them on and they snapped in half.. imagine the plastic can only flex so many times over the last 5 years.. sure loved those.. good sound and very comfortable. The worktunes ones are heavy built but also heavy to wear and they are very strong / tight to the ears.. I don't have a big head either so can't imagine how they'd be if I did. LOL

I have a pair of worktunes noise cancelling headphones I use when running the chainsaw or mowing grass etc. Mine are not the "bluetooth" version as that wasn't a thing back when I got them but the newer ones are.. or maybe I should say they have both bluetooth and non bluetooth ones now. For inside the house at my computer since I'm right in the same room as the TV we always used to compete with the volume so I bought a pair of Altec Lansing blue tooth noise cancelling headphones and I really like them. I have taken them out and mowed with them and every bit as good as the worktunes..

I don't know where you are in relation to this saw.. and this saw is not a small saw.. I kind of took your post as looking for a cheaper price than a small saw.. this is a 26" throat saw and is a Hawk Ultra. About half the price you was looking to spend for a new saw.. Even if you had to drive a couple hours.. Looks like new still.. not much goes wrong with the Hawks and Hegners and many parts could be had from a local hardware store. LOL https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/639933374502405?hoisted=false&ref=saved&referral_code=null There is also another Hawk 14" saw probably closer to you but it's the single speed.. price isn't too bad at $180 It's in Owensboro, KY and another one just like it in IN for $100 but that would be a bit of a drive. A Hegner in Nashville but it's $1500 too, LOL I don't know how much one can dicker on price of a Hegner but I know there are tons of Hawks out there and most times they don't seem to sell super fast.. and most times you can haggle on the price and get it much cheaper than asking price. Remember, getting close to the holidays many folks might be selling equipment they don't use much to fund the Christmas gifts.. Plus if you decide on a new saw we have Black Friday coming up.. and lots of deals on stuff. Grizzly used to offer a good price on the new DeWalt saws for most of November through to the new year.. They are decent saws too.. just don't have the bells and whistles of the Jet, Pegas type of saws..

I agree with Ray.. plenty of used saws out there that are high end saws like Hawk and Hegner.. older Excalibur 16" saws too.. Hawk doesn't make a small saw anymore but there is plenty of those old Hawk 12", 14", and 16" saws out there that can be had from $100 - 250.. or a good Hegner 14" saw for a little bit more.. On those older Hawk and Hegners though.. you probably want to make sure it's a variable speed saw rather than a single or 2-3 speed.. Hawk and Hegners are very easy to work on should they ever need something addressed..

Welcome to the village!! Both saws are great saws and a good investment. I personally would also go with Pegas for the blade clamps and the angle adjustment mechanism is different ( not necessarily better but more user friendly is probably a better way to describe that ) . As for parts.. IF you're mechanical incline enough to repair a saw yourself I think probably most of the mechanical parts are basically they same.. as both the Pegas and Seyco were both designed after the Excalibur as is the King and Jet brands.. each have a minor difference of mostly blade clamps and or table size or angle adjustment fixtures. But the main working parts I'm pretty certain are pretty interchangeable.. only those that share the same size though.. I know Jet makes a 18" saw.. so the link rods inside might be different length but I would bet the bearings and sleeves are the same.. Anyway, I would think a mechanical inclined person could make parts work from one saw to the next without too much issue. Anyway as I said Pegas have great blade clamps and many folks that get a Jet, King, or Seyco end up buying Pegas clamps for their saw.. so why not just start with that saw.. they are so similar to one another really a toss-up other than those blade clamps and the more user friendly angle adjustment..

I have used the small 4oz. ? can of the elmers and at first try I didn't like it and got the same results... I found you have to shake the can up good and also have to be kind of heavy at spraying it.. I think you also have to let it set for a few seconds after spraying? I don't remember for sure now but it was a learning curve to use as opposed to the 3M sprays that I had been using.. I think they seem to have the smallest of the cans that you can get.. really handy for those of us that don't really use much of the sprays.

I order a lot from them as well, I don't have one very close to me like I do Menards or Lowes but they ship to me and they always have better deals for the things I need. I very seldom use spray glue anymore and most times when I need it the can won't work so I buy very small cans, LOL

I think the King is a 16" saw not a 18" unless they made a new one that I'm not aware of yet.. The King is the same thing as the old excalibur.. I don't know the prices anymore but I think I would go with it over the Jet myself.. I'm not sure where you get parts for a Jet saw, but I know the King being the same as a Excalibur and Seyco.com sells Excalibur parts. I've heard Jet saws have issues with the upper clamp mechanism jamming up IF you're not well informed about how to adjust them. I like the idea of the clamping system but I see many folks buying the Pegas chucks and pitching the Jet ones in the trash so.. at least you do have that option if the clamps don't work as well as you hoped. Also some of the Jets had issues with the reverse tooth blades.. table sits too high and the reverse teeth aren't utilized as they should be.. Maybe this has been corrected by now I don't know. IF price is your concern you might look for used high end saws like Ray mentioned the Hegner.. If space is an issue and you're using the stand made for the saw, they use the same stand for the 16" and the 21" saws so you really aren't saving much if any space.. I think the Hegner has a pretty compact stand.. New ones aren't very cheap though. Edit: Black Friday is just around the corner.. Jet and many others will likely be discounting prices..

Yeah, I get that too sometimes.. I either dip a second or third time sometimes or if it's a rush order I will just top coat with polyurethane, typically the water base stuff as it dries really fast.. I'd rather use Lacquer but oil and Lacquer argue with each other too much, and more times than not it'll mess up the finish.. if not right away it will a few weeks later.

Save on ink I modified Dons pattern and added X to mark center of clock circle for drilling. I also made for two of the more popular sized clocks.. Though I did make the circles a bit large from what the actual clock would be.. I realized it after I already closed out the program but anyway these should work fine. scooter clock.pdf

Yes the green colored can is exterior and says good for decks, and fences etc. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-gal-Natural-Oil-Wood-Finish-2-Pack-67731/204803632 This is the cheapest one but it says 8 hours to dry.. I only skimmed through but I didn't see a VOC on this one. Pretty sure this is what I had been using in the past. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-65731/202067183 Thinking this is the one I purchased last time and has the VOC of 350 I'd have to look to be sure but I doubt I went for the most expensive one.. whatever one it was it was the only one in stock.. so maybe it was the one that is more $$ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-65732/202067184 This one is the most $$ and a VOC of 275.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-242217/204793060 I'll have to look at my can to see what I bought. The lowest price one is 8 hour dry times.. the other two are both 2 hour dry times... I never looked to see what is available in the smaller cans as I've never bought them before. Edit: I just looked at the pint cans.. all three the same as in gallons for the pint cans dry in 30 minutes... something not right there I don't think. I might have to look more into the ingredients.. I mean they could make the mix different for smaller cans but seems weird.

I think you could probably search for scooter svg or coloring page and get a image close enough to work with.. just make it large enough to give room for the clock.

Some time ago ( probably been a couple years LOL. Funny I can remember this but can't remember why I went to the Kitchen LOL) there was a topic about Danish Oil not drying very fast.. I've not had the issue and for the most part I have always bought locally at a wood / lumber store that's similar to woodcraft. During the pandemic with all the lockdowns I was unable to go out and get it so I ordered from Home Depot and what they had was limited because as you may have experienced the shortages of things. For some reason they have 3 different listings of the gallon sized and range in price from just one finger to a arm, and then also an arm and a leg, . So I got to thinking about this price thing and started looking closer at those 3 different Natural color oils. The cheapest one they have says 8 hours to dry to the touch.. the other two show a VOC rating and I couldn't find that info on the cheaper can.. anyway those other two slightly more expensive cans say dries in 2 hours.. One has a VOC of 275 I think it was and the other was VOC 350 if memory is correct. Anyway, not all these Danish oils are created equal. The last time I ordered I bought one of the higher priced ones, can't remember is it was the one price arm or the one priced arm and leg.. but whatever one it is it gives a much more rich deeper sheen look to the projects.. Thinking it has a bit more oil in the mix.. was thicker to pour than the cheaper stuff.. Just thought I'd bring it up, I think I made a post about this before but since we have many new to the hobby members here maybe one of them is smarter than me and can tell me more about these differences.. Meanwhile if you've had drying issues with your Danish oil maybe you was like me and too cheap to buy the good stuff when it really is better..

Yeah, The single speed and 3 speed ran by belt to change speeds on some of them. They was all mostly pre-90's saws.. The old 220VS I had was a 1993 that I got really cheap was my first one.. Took a couple hundred to get it running right as it needed work. Great old saw but nothing close to the new saws with the blade being out in front of the angle mechanism etc.. much better for changing blades etc.. While those old saws ran fairly smooth once tuned good, I doubt one could pass the Nickle test..

It's been a lot of years since they made a 2 speed Hawks.. You have one of those old saws that is a PIA to use, LOL I can certainly see why you have little interest in using it. Especially cutting thicker stock. Hope you get the Excalibur up and running with Rays advice of things to check.

Sounds like you need a new blade holder clip or adjustment to the one you have if it's the metal one. This is what you need for a round barrel style clamp https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/barrel-style-blade-holder-clip/ This is the one if you have a Ultra saw. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/ultra-blade-holder-clip/ The newer saws they made these from spring steel so you can adjust them ( bend the metal up tighter to the holder ) but the older style use a plastic clip and over time the plastic gets weak and doesn't hold the blade holder well. I imagine one could make one from some spring steel fairly easy.. if you're able to bend and form the metal around the blade holder to mold the shape etc.. Not rocket science and sure beats crawling around searching the the blade holder.