kmmcrafts

I remember when I used the app on my phone.. I expected the db to be way louder with my shop vac than my small Seyco vac and I was surprised it wasn't nearly double the db like I thought it would be, LOL But what Larry saying about it being 10 times louder makes sense.. LOL I'm almost talked into buying this vac.. My shop vac is one of the big ones with the 5-6hp. 14 gallon I think. I'm almost talked into trying this DW one though..

Yeah, my thought too.. I only could find that info on the YouTube video review. Seems like Home Depot and even on the DeWalt website they do not list that info, LOL Yet it's on the box so I guess at least they did that.

Just for some useless info, I did some research on vac noise a few years ago and the Festool on the lowest settings was rated at 62dbl and around 72dbl on high. This is for the MIDI model which is the quietest one I think. I think the Fein was rated at 67.. ( now my memory is going to make me tell a lie LOL) Anyway I downloaded a app to my phone to test some things I had in the shop as well as my small Seyco vac system etc. I don't remember what my loud shop vac was. I think it was like 86dbl but that might be a lie. The little Seyco vac was like 62dbl but I will say it gets considerably louder when some fine dust gets into the bag / filter. The bag is kinda the only filter that thing has.. while it does quite well I'm sure the thing probably is spitting some fine particles out the back of it which is why I still wear a dust mask. Anyway, this DW vac seems like a real bargain for the price and only 65dbl. However some of the Fein vacs can be had for not a lot more than that without the Hepa filter and I believe you can buy that hepa filter and add to it later. I see no mention of the Hepa filter for the DW. Looks like the filtration is pretty good on it.. I'm sure it's better than the little Seyco system I have since the bag is the filter. The issue with these is that for a "real" dust collection you need a Hepa filter to catch those smallest of particles as they are what is bad for you. I'll definitely buy one of these once my shop vac dies.. maybe before that. LOL

In the video posted earlier the guy shows the specs on the side of the box.. shows it to be 65dbl. Not sure why they can put that info on the box but not on their website. I think that info is needed for people to make that decision to buy one. Also I noticed that they have other models that look exactly the same online.. but the one that is the quiet one is a little more money than those others.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-10-Gal-Poly-Wet-Dry-Vac-DXV10P/305323783

Might be how your saw is set up too.. depending on what saw you're using. As Ray said, maybe if possible mount the blade up higher in your blade chucks. Some of the Jet saws have a issue where the table sits too high and the reverse teeth on many of them are not being utilized. I find myself doing this quite often on my Excalibur, I mount the blade way to low and then I get a lot of fuzzies etc. on the back side of the project. Can't do that on the Hawk.. as there is only one position to even be able to mount the blade.. something that really annoys me on the Hawk with pegas blades is they are not consistent with length.. some blades in the same bundle will have a thin piece on either end or both ends sometimes and very few blades are always the exact same length. On the Hawk you place the blade in the lower clamp until it bottoms out in the hole, then mount in the top clamp as it comes to the roll pin.. but some blades are too long which is easy to just snip off a small section.. but sometimes they're also too short to even mount in the saw unless I change the whole set up for that one blade, LOL very annoying to me.. I normally now just set those blades aside and use them on the Excalibur.. still frustrating though since you don't know until you already mount it in the lower clamp and then pull the upper arm down to find it's too short, LOL.. Nice sharp blades but sometimes wonder if they're worth the hassle on the Hawk saws.. Wish Pegas could make a uniform length and stick with it like the other companies do..

A tire for air .. Yeah I got out of it partly because of the safety liability of the corrupt owner wanted the workers to perform on salvaged cars. Putting unsafe cars back on the road because the owner needed to scam people for more speed boats I guess, LOL.. Plus my passion was custom work. I did air brushing some doing multi color flame paint jobs for show cars since back then flames was a big thing, LOL. I found that the badger air brush I had didn't have the paint capacity I needed to do most of the bigger flame jobs I had and found that a small half pint devilbis touch-up gun worked better for what I was doing. They've probably improved the air brush since my days or I just never learned the ins and outs of the set I had. Also back before the internet days you relied on the tool sales guy to know what he's selling or by word of mouth.. now days you can look up reviews and see demos etc. online. My experience with them is limited as I just preferred the touch-up gun I had. The issue I had with staying in the business was finding enough customers that actually had the money to have a car done up that wasn't a insurance claim type work.. I was working with cash paying customers only because I wanted out of the liability of doing crappy repairs for the insurance using aftermarket panels that don't fit right etc.. They've since improved repop panels and parts but I have no desire to go back into it other than doing my own cars.

I was asked a while back to make a snowmobile clock. The customer sent an image of basically a half circle with a snowmobile silhouette. While they did a nice job on the cutting and even design wasn’t too bad but I felt there was a lot of air space with nothing in it. So I designed this by combining a few different patterns to create one. Cut from Cherry using my Hawk saw with a #5 Pegas MFG blade. Finished with Danish oil, may put a top coat of poly on it in a few days as it’s currently drying ( dipped today ). I'm kind od torn on whether I should have cut the hill area on the right by his head off.. kind of blends into his head.

That's a really neat saw, and what a great job you've done to restore it. I like to see old machinery in both original and restored form..

Yeah, I know it "can be" done.. but is it practical? I know a guy that paints cars with a roller and wins car shows.. It's not how the paint was laid out but rather the the wet sanding and buffing the less than perfect laid paint to make it "look" like a pro did it with high end spray equipment. So the guy that does a entire car with an air brush is either spraying one panel at a time or he's detailing the crap out of the paint after a crap spray job. You cannot possibly get around the entire car and get the correct flash timing for the second coat without having orange peel issues.. It's tough sometime even with proper spray equipment. You can also flash it with reducer to add a shine to paint that had been too dry for that second coat. Anyway yes can be done but it's like building a house and the only saw you have to cut your framing materials with is a scroll saw, LOL.. can be done yes.. and yes takes skill at a different level to achieve it, there are much better methods to achieve the end result and less work / time involved to do the job. I went to trade school for auto collision repair and worked at a shop for 10 years before running my own shop for a few years.. I know my way around that side of painting a little bit, don't know it all because I've been out of it for 12 ish years.. What I don't know is finishing wood products.. what I do know about it is if you don't seal it with something first it can take 5 times the amount of paint that the same surface area of a car metal would take.. also about 4 times harder to get a run / sag in paint on wood products, LOL.. Which is probably why I mentioned that painting larger wood products with a air brush might not be practical and a larger gun might be what is best. I'm just starting to toy with paints and wood products so I am learning new things.. maybe a air brush is good enough to do larger projects with I don't know..

There was a topic on this maybe a year ago? I'm not sure when it was but they talked about a site that you could post a picture and it'd give you a font or one close. I'm not sure what search terms you'd use for that topic... @Scrappile seems to have good luck using the search term "Harbor Freight" maybe try that one.

I don't remember who posted it, but there was a topic with a site / app that did just that.. never tried any of the sites but if you google the term " font finder" it'll bring up site where you load a image and it'll find the font or the closest match.

Yeah a air brush isn't probably the best option for spray finishing unless you're finishing very small items like ornaments etc. and just a few at a time. I haven't used my spray equipment that I have for painting cars until the other day. I really needed something better than spray cans to spray a lot of the water based poly. Since I had a quart can I bought a couple years ago to do just that but then didn't want to use my nicer spray guns for these type of paints. I took my cheaper gun ( which actually works as good if not better than the high dollar ones LOL ) a gravity feed Astro 2000 I think is the model with the 1.4 nozzle. It did a nice job and I can see myself using it more. I'll likely buy a new one as the real only reason I did use it for other paints than for cars is the gun it old and been used a lot but more important is that the chrome is peeling off and to hold it it's rough and hurts your hand, LOL.. definitely not something I'll hold long enough to paint an entire car, LOL. They still make the same gun but now they're colored chrome looking rather than plain chrome. Definitely don't need a large cup that they come with. Plastic spray gun cups are junk.. now they might be okay for cheap oil and water based paints but the potent car paints and solvents sort of distorts the plastic and then you can't get the lid to unscrew.. ( not a good thing if painting a car and need to refill and can't get the lid off ) I would shy away from a plastic cup.. that said I believe the most spray guns may have the same threads to replace the cup with a metal one, that's what I did with my Astro gun. Since you don't need a large cup I'd find a small metal cup for the smaller projects. If you're good with fabrication and have some common sense for safety with air pressures etc. and you only spray the same material through the same can you can customize your spray can to be refillable.. then buy the quarts and just refill your spray can if you're good with the spray quality from the can..

First, Welcome to the village! I would do as Roberta mentioned and make sure you have the tension lever moved into the lowest tension position. Also you mentioned that the blade grabbed your board and bounced around so it may have bumped up the upper arm a little. The upper arm I believe on this saw raises up out of the way for easier blade changes etc. so I would raise it up some and then drop it down to be sure it's in the full down position.

I personally think if someone could put a bug into the manufactures ears to coat the threads with blue thread locker.. there probably would never be an issue.. I put around 200 hours on my saw before I took it apart for rebuild.. maybe it was 300 ish? anyway.. I had issues with the knob turning by itself within the first 100 ish hours.. Thread locker on the threads and since the rebuild the saw has had 453 more hours added.. no issues at all with that.. IF they did this from the get go I see no reason why they'd do it at all for a weekend hobby type running the saw for many years.. that's just my opinion based on what I did to fix the issues a few years back.. so take that with a grain of salt.. Just feel if it had that on the threads from the beginning.. also feel like the manufacture should and could make the upper arm parallel before they get boxed up.. no reason that I can see as to why this stuff couldn't be set up this far.. yes you may want to move the motor for a blade aggression of your style but no matter the blade aggression the arm is to be parallel for the initial set up. I see no reason to move that arm once it's parallel so what's the purpose of even having the adjustment.. Maybe some weird cutting style that I haven't done yet but I've never had to touch that knob ever other than because it kept moving on its own.. I realize maybe wear and tare might require a slight adjustment after many hours / years of use..

Very nice cutting and painting.. I like the layered projects but have to say they're very expensive to make. I recently did a few layered ornaments.. it's just one ornament but 4 layers.. so it took 4 times the plywood that a single one would take.. not sure it'd bring 4 times the cost if selling it.. LOL. Plywood has recently skyrocketed in price and harder to get.. I may not be making too many more of them layered projects unfortunately.

Ray at Seyco told me it happens to all saws at some point. It’s caused when lowering the upper arm it puts a strain on the threads sort of like hammers at them and over several fretwork’s those threads take a beating. He said the fix is actually to change the threaded rod and the square block that it threads into. I just opted to save some money and since I had the blue thread locker on hand to try that. Been a few years and still going good. Mine was really bad too, like it’d turn a quarter turn during cutting, long cuts I’d have to stop and adjust it a couple times sometimes. Was basically useless lol.

Common issue with these type of saws. I had the same issue with my excalibur a few years ago. I'm not sure how to search for the topics but there are a few of them out there.. Most people fix it with a simple rubber band and wrap it around in a way to hold it from spinning. I took my saw apart and put a little blue colored loc-tite thread locker on the threads and put it back together.. been good for about 3 year or so now.. Here is a link to when I rebuilt my saw and there is a section on July 20th in that topic ( first page of the topic about half way down the page ) where I show pictures of the threaded block and how I put the blue stuff on the threads.. If you choose to go this route to solve the issue.. It's a bit of a job but as I said.. some use a rubber band.

Only thing I have on that is, there was really good reviews on that vac a couple years ago when I was researching.. I never did buy anything other than my small Seyco scroll saw dust vac. It does pretty good job but will need a T to get dust from the top side of the table. I wonder how well the cyclone thing with my kit is compared to a actual brand name dust deputy.. My little vac filter gets coated with some fine dust after a days cutting and the vac starts getting louder. If I take the filter / bag out and take it outside and blow the dust out it'll quiet down for the next day. So basically it's pretty quiet so long as you keep the filter / bag cleaned out.

I don't remember exactly how this comes apart BUT, there is a plastic cap on top of the knob that you'll need to pry off then there is a nut to remove there. My cap broke and fell off so here is a good picture of what I'm taking about. The whole threaded rod might try to spin and you might not want that as that might loosen in the threaded block and could give you fits later down the road. Unless you're planning to unthread it anyway and add some blue loc-tite which is something I recommend if you're mechanical enough to do that. Anyway, there is a jam nut below the knob too but it's a tough to squeeze a wrench in there to get onto it.. That's about the only way to hold it if the whole rod tries to spin on you. If you have a impact gun then you might be able to loosen that nut without holding the jam nut.. Anyway, good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

Seen this on FB.. I'll add photo for those without FB if they cannot access the link. https://www.facebook.com/TheFamilyHandyman/photos/a.90657113889/10160088695373890/ This in on Family Handyman FB page so it might be on their website too I don't know.. anyway I'd have never thought about it for a miter saw I guess.. I did similar 5 years ago with my K40 C02 Laser. I had just replaced my grille because the bottom rotted out on the old one. Took a piece of left over OSB I had laying around and made a table top from it. The laser is water cooled and I use a 5 gallon bucket for the water and that fits nicely where the LP tank would go, LOL.. so the laser is self contained and on wheels for easy moving around,

I got some pictures of the plywood. I don’t really know what the core is made from. As I said it’s pretty solid stuff. The walnut I bought a few weeks ago has only one side that is walnut, not sure what the other side is made from either. I’m not sure if the pictures of this will show very well or not but I tried to get a picture of the edges and one picture has a piece of bbply on top for comparison.

I know one thing that will affect your cuts is moisture content.. I may be wrong but I think no matter how precise you get with your angles there is going to be some imperfection because of the moisture levels in wood and so many other variables.. not to mention your cutting skills.. I think most times you're going to have to do a bit of sanding to get the fitment you need / want.. I showed a video of how the CNC guys do the inlay on another thread a few days ago.. those machines are pretty precise yet I see on the CNC forums where they have fitment issues because of the movement in the wood. You'll almost always have to sand the inlay flat so both pieces sit flush..

Nobody makes them and that would also take out the sentimental value for me anyway knowing that I didn't make it. Not to mention I haven't seen anywhere that anyone is selling these. The reason I would never sell them is because it's trademarked ( Disney ) stuff and they are actively looking for those infringing. Did anyone look at the link Dan posted? I skimmed through it the other day but was just sort of skimming again and looking more closely at the pictures. It's made of foam and painted to look like wood, LOL

Not sure why your tag didn't work.. It should highlight his name in blue as a link. Someone tagged me the other day and I just stumbled upon it as it didn't actually tag me.. fortunately I ran upon it anyway but. To have it actually tag it has to be highlighted like this. @Dave Monk Doing this on my computer I notice that it pops up their name and in order for it to actually tag them I have to click on the name when it pops up.. maybe that is what happen to you when you tagged him..

If I remember correctly you can also mark the edge of the board with a line then measure the thickness of the board and make another line on the edge of the board the same distance from the first line that is the thickness of the blade.. Place the board at the back side of the blade and line it up with whichever mark then angle the saw blade until the bottom or top angles to the other corner of the mark.. That doesn't sound right? I've honestly never done this but read about it or seen a youtube video on how to do it something like this.. maybe someone else would chime in that does it this way..