kmmcrafts

Common issue with these type of saws. I had the same issue with my excalibur a few years ago. I'm not sure how to search for the topics but there are a few of them out there.. Most people fix it with a simple rubber band and wrap it around in a way to hold it from spinning. I took my saw apart and put a little blue colored loc-tite thread locker on the threads and put it back together.. been good for about 3 year or so now.. Here is a link to when I rebuilt my saw and there is a section on July 20th in that topic ( first page of the topic about half way down the page ) where I show pictures of the threaded block and how I put the blue stuff on the threads.. If you choose to go this route to solve the issue.. It's a bit of a job but as I said.. some use a rubber band.

Only thing I have on that is, there was really good reviews on that vac a couple years ago when I was researching.. I never did buy anything other than my small Seyco scroll saw dust vac. It does pretty good job but will need a T to get dust from the top side of the table. I wonder how well the cyclone thing with my kit is compared to a actual brand name dust deputy.. My little vac filter gets coated with some fine dust after a days cutting and the vac starts getting louder. If I take the filter / bag out and take it outside and blow the dust out it'll quiet down for the next day. So basically it's pretty quiet so long as you keep the filter / bag cleaned out.

I don't remember exactly how this comes apart BUT, there is a plastic cap on top of the knob that you'll need to pry off then there is a nut to remove there. My cap broke and fell off so here is a good picture of what I'm taking about. The whole threaded rod might try to spin and you might not want that as that might loosen in the threaded block and could give you fits later down the road. Unless you're planning to unthread it anyway and add some blue loc-tite which is something I recommend if you're mechanical enough to do that. Anyway, there is a jam nut below the knob too but it's a tough to squeeze a wrench in there to get onto it.. That's about the only way to hold it if the whole rod tries to spin on you. If you have a impact gun then you might be able to loosen that nut without holding the jam nut.. Anyway, good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

Seen this on FB.. I'll add photo for those without FB if they cannot access the link. https://www.facebook.com/TheFamilyHandyman/photos/a.90657113889/10160088695373890/ This in on Family Handyman FB page so it might be on their website too I don't know.. anyway I'd have never thought about it for a miter saw I guess.. I did similar 5 years ago with my K40 C02 Laser. I had just replaced my grille because the bottom rotted out on the old one. Took a piece of left over OSB I had laying around and made a table top from it. The laser is water cooled and I use a 5 gallon bucket for the water and that fits nicely where the LP tank would go, LOL.. so the laser is self contained and on wheels for easy moving around,

I got some pictures of the plywood. I don’t really know what the core is made from. As I said it’s pretty solid stuff. The walnut I bought a few weeks ago has only one side that is walnut, not sure what the other side is made from either. I’m not sure if the pictures of this will show very well or not but I tried to get a picture of the edges and one picture has a piece of bbply on top for comparison.

I know one thing that will affect your cuts is moisture content.. I may be wrong but I think no matter how precise you get with your angles there is going to be some imperfection because of the moisture levels in wood and so many other variables.. not to mention your cutting skills.. I think most times you're going to have to do a bit of sanding to get the fitment you need / want.. I showed a video of how the CNC guys do the inlay on another thread a few days ago.. those machines are pretty precise yet I see on the CNC forums where they have fitment issues because of the movement in the wood. You'll almost always have to sand the inlay flat so both pieces sit flush..

Nobody makes them and that would also take out the sentimental value for me anyway knowing that I didn't make it. Not to mention I haven't seen anywhere that anyone is selling these. The reason I would never sell them is because it's trademarked ( Disney ) stuff and they are actively looking for those infringing. Did anyone look at the link Dan posted? I skimmed through it the other day but was just sort of skimming again and looking more closely at the pictures. It's made of foam and painted to look like wood, LOL

Not sure why your tag didn't work.. It should highlight his name in blue as a link. Someone tagged me the other day and I just stumbled upon it as it didn't actually tag me.. fortunately I ran upon it anyway but. To have it actually tag it has to be highlighted like this. @Dave Monk Doing this on my computer I notice that it pops up their name and in order for it to actually tag them I have to click on the name when it pops up.. maybe that is what happen to you when you tagged him..

If I remember correctly you can also mark the edge of the board with a line then measure the thickness of the board and make another line on the edge of the board the same distance from the first line that is the thickness of the blade.. Place the board at the back side of the blade and line it up with whichever mark then angle the saw blade until the bottom or top angles to the other corner of the mark.. That doesn't sound right? I've honestly never done this but read about it or seen a youtube video on how to do it something like this.. maybe someone else would chime in that does it this way..

She was hiding it from you, maybe she didn't want you to make another one. Women read mens minds well in advance and they choose how they'll react to it before hand. They always 3-4 steps ahead of us,

Yeah, no way would I make this for just any customer.. in fact I almost turned it away anyway as I'm not too great with just winging it for making stuff without any patterns. They really want the design in the link that Dan posted.. the other looks too cartoon-ish.. While I might be able to figure it out with lots of trial and error and many scrap pieces I'd really like to find some plans for it. Thankfully they're not getting married until next May.. so I have a little time..

I agree with all the others, keep posting.. I don't always comment on these type post but I do enjoy seeing them. I've been sawing for 15+ or - years and you have passed me up in just a few weeks because I haven't done a compound cut yet. Okay challenge accepted. This turned out terrible-ly nice compared to my compound cut ornament.

Just got word that my daughters old best friend ( my second daughter kind of, LOL ) is getting married and her mom reached out to me today asking if I could make something just like this... The wedding theme is beauty and the beast, LOL.. I only need to make the clock thing not the candle part of this image.

Just wanted to update and say that my part showed up today.. maybe they had a huge amount of them at first to mail out because mine showed up much faster than what others have mentioned. Now to find time to get it installed..

I'm not certain of the core material I haven't worked with it in quite some time, did just buy some but haven't opened up the box yet. I'll try to remember to check it out and maybe I'll post some pictures of it. I know the stuff is pretty solid as it cuts a lot like BBply. I have regular 1/4" ply with I think MDF core? and the stuff is dusty and the veneer is really thin.. so thin that it's easy to sand through with fine paper. The project panels from HD are thicker veneer but not as thick as BBply. I'll see about getting some pictures of it in the next few days.

A lot of my pricing on ornaments has a base starting point to make a profit and then as supply and demand come into play I raise prices for a higher demand.. I started out selling them at $10 some years ago and the demand was hard to keep up with so I started raising prices.. I make profit from $10.. but run out of inventory.. I've worked my way up the ladder to around $15 - 19 + shipping cost.. I really don't need to raise prices for the material when I'm getting way more than the base price of the product at hand.. so I won't be doing so unless sales are high demand or I may leave prices as they are but run sales to make customers believe they're getting a deal.. That's how pricing should work.. IMO.. don't charge your minimum

I enjoy making stuff for her if she wants it.. it's more about the types of wood she chooses to have me use, LOL And yes it does help in getting new tools etc.. that's sort of how I ended up with the CNC router and laser.. she seen it on TV or youtube and had heard me talk about wanting to "try it someday" then talked me into buying them.. of coarse she didn't have to talk too hard to get me to buy them. She now is telling me I need the bigger laser machine, I told her I didn't think she knew how much those are so she asked how much.. I said well to get one to do large stuff would be $6000 - 8000 she said so get one, LOL.. I'm not going to though.. at least not until I see some selling value to be able to make and sell enough product to pay for itself in a couple years.. and with the economy slowing up and prices of plywood etc.. I'm not biting that one just yet.

Just fair warning, never ever.. and I mean never ever take your wife to the wood suppliers that carry exotic wood.. just don't do it. When I first picked up scroll sawing there was a real popular wedding / anniversary themed item that my wife loved.. I had to make one for almost everyone we know, LOL.. which I enjoyed making from nice cutting wood. Well one day she was at work so I ( like a dummy ) went and bought some Purple Heart ( our wedding colors was purple for all the brides maids dresses and table decor etc. so I thought it'd be cool to make a purple anniversary gift ) little did I know about wood or wood density at that time.. also didn't have a planer yet so whatever thickness I bought was what I used. At that time most all the exotics was 7/8 or 1-1/4 inch thick. Took a little while to make as the cutting was a bit slower but not horrible.. She loved it and couldn't believe there was actually purple wood.. I said you should see the zebra wood and leopard wood... ooppps So when her good friend was getting married I got elected to make one but the wife wanted to go and check out the exotics that I mentioned so she picked zebra wood.. only piece they had was 1-1/4" thick.. LOL I thought the purple heart was bad enough.. The next person she said we need to make from the Brazilian Cherry ( Bubbinga ? ) luckily it was 7/8" but that stuff was the worst of the worst and I bought a good sized piece of it to make other things with.. but I never did touch it to a scroll saw blade again, nor will I.. about 10 years later after getting a planer etc.. I decided to make a cutting board with it.. Still have that board and the knife blade doesn't even mark the stripes of that wood but does on the hard maple that I put in the glued up board. So anyway.. don't say you weren't warned.

Easiest way to antique it would be to leave it out there another 10 years.

This is the stuff I'm talking about.. I think the price went up on it also since I bought it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-5-32-in-x-1-ft-x-1-ft-7-in-PureBond-Birch-Plywood-Project-Panel-10-Pack-5534/315126783 I just order it online as it's free shipping.. not sure if this is available for in store or not.. we don't have a Home depot near me so I order most things as they ship free and I can't drive to the local Lowes or Menards for the prices so I just order and stay home, LOL

At those prices it might be cheaper to buy the project panels from Home Depot.. I haven't calculated out the square footage but I did buy some of this stuff just to mess with on my laser.. it's really stable stuff and already cut in small enough pieces that I can easily use them in my laser or scroll saw without having to break down a whole sheet. When I got wind of prices going up I went out and bought around 20 sheets which I had already had around 10 sheets on hand so I've got plenty for a year or maybe more.. as that'll make an awful lot of ornaments.. I do an occasional portrait but not much of that anymore since they're hard to sell unlike ornaments, LOL Another place that I would buy from now and then was Cherokee woods.. they are a bit pricey but price includes shipping and last I had seen they are still selling at the same price I paid for 2 years ago during lock downs and I couldn't get out to my local supplier.. I haven't looked at their prices for a couple month now so maybe they did a price hike by now. I haven't upped my prices for ornaments yet.. but that might be coming soon. Going to try to get through this holiday season without upping price.. since I was already one of the higher priced on ornaments for the last several years.. and I paid the lower cost of my plywood and currently have enough for quite some time.

An air brush has always crossed my mind of something I might like to have.. as you say I just never bit the bullet.. not that they're pricey unless you're getting very high end stuff to work in the auto industry. Having spray equipment can be nice, I've often thought about buying a small spray gun or air brush for my crafts.. My issue with spray guns is that most my stuff is finished not in a production type manor.. If I get a order today for a clock or? I make it asap and many times I'm just finishing the one item.. for me the clean-up for a spray gun would be more wasteful than just using a spray can.. most things I make don't even get a top coat.. because of time constraints from customers.. Got a order yesterday and the customer needs it for a birthday on the 7th.. it'll be approximately 3 days just in the mail.. and to make the grain "pop" I dip in danish oil so it needs a few days after that before I can top coat IF I even top coat.. many times, actually most times I do not top coat. If I was running production run of several items to top coat then yes a spray gun would be and has been used.. But it's not feasible most of the time for me and my set up.. That could change with me adding more laser cut stuff.. since the laser cut items smell like a campfire I spray a top coat on most all of that stuff to block the smell. Mostly use water base poly on it.. since it dries super fast.. or lacquer but the smell of lacquer I do not like at all, LOL

Don't know much about the small compressors either.. I have a small one that runs constantly that I use for my laser for the air assist. I hate the thing because it's noisy and runs constantly.. a couple weeks ago I ran a temporary hose upstairs from my 80 gallon 2 stage compressor.. I have a regulator turned down to 5psi.. running the air continuous the big tank once full only turns on about once every 30 - 40 minutes, LOL and it don't take long to pump back up and shut off maybe 5 minutes or so. I think I'll be running hard line up to the loft where the laser rest eventually. The small pump is nothing more than a fish tank pump.. Might be enough to run a air brush but the air pulsates a little as the piston cycles.. I would think it would work but that pulsating air seems like it'd mess up the paint flow.. I'm assuming most any of the tankless compressors would be sort of like that. I think you're better off with a small tank compressor rather than a continuous one. Even if it's just one of those pancake ones. But again, I don't know maybe there is some real good tankless ones out there that have a better air flow. You'd be amazed at how much you might actually use compressed air though for blowing dust out the driveway and what have you.. I just looked at HF to see what those pancake pumps cost.. LOL about $10 more than the stupid fish tank pump I got.. while the little 3 gallon tank would require it to run I'd still rather just run hardline from my big compressor, and it may run quite a lot for you as well.. just you'd have better air flow control with the tank ( I would think ). My father used to air brush some of his scroll saw portrait backers with skylines etc. He didn't have a compressor but he lived not too far from a gas station and he had a air tank for inflating tires etc. Pretty good sized one maybe 7 gallon? anyway.. he'd be able to do quite a lot of air brushing on that tank so if you already have a tank you probably could put a short piece of hose with quick connector on it so long as you have a source nearby to fill the tank. Now days fuel stations etc. charge to use the air.. That's because idiots would steal the tire inflator fittings etc. Friend that ran a station was putting a new hose etc. on the outside air about 2 times a week just to be helpful to people so they could air up tires etc. He finally broke down and made it a pay one.. still happens but more so by accident and he's able to make enough to pay for that when it does happen.

I don't have much experience with air brushes, my older brother had a nice set for doing custom work on cars back in the 70's that i used to play with on my bicycles, LOL Coming from a spray gun perspective from the old siphon feed days to going to the newer HVLP gravity feed spray guns I have to say I like the gravity feed stuff way better.. you can mix just enough paint and not have to worry about keeping enough in the cup to keep it from sucking some air and spitting etc.. plus there is very little to no paint waisted since you can spray it out until it's dry.. always had to keep a ounce or so in the bottom of a siphon feed to toss out.. I don't know if the air brush is the same way or not and I highly doubt you're going to be working with some of the auto paints that can be $200 on ounce too so your waist would be minimal compared to what I work with on car paints. LOL. But if you get the gravity feed you may save yourself from having it suck up some air and mess up your paint job is what I'm getting at.. again.. don't know much about the air brushes.. may not be like that just a thought I guess and if I were buying a set I think I'd go with a gravity feed set up.. unless research says otherwise..

I'm really new to painting so I don't really have any tips on painting, LOL That said, I do some CNC wood carving and I do use paints for those projects either to paint the words and or paint the entire board and then do the carve so it's a natural wood look on the carved out areas while the rest is painted. Usually black.. When doing this I always seal the bare wood with 2-3 coats of water based poly.. Then paint or carve and then after carving I also put a few coats of clear on before painting the carved area to help seal the wood before painting if painting.. if no painting then I just seal the whole thing with clear.. The flag in the middle is an example of painting the board and then carving and then clearcoat the whole thing.. The others was cleared then carved.. painted and then remove the oramask and then clearing the whole thing. Quite a learning experience with painting wood and other porous materials compared to car painting that I'm used to doing, LOL..