kmmcrafts

My father inlaw had his mounted to a sheet of 3/4" plywood. He had some holes in his truck tail gate ( not what I would do but..) where he bolted the saw / plywood too. He ran the saw basically off the tail gate of the truck. I've seen folks just clamp a saw to a picnic table too. I don't know how well it worked like that.. Harbor Freight has those foldable sawhorse stands.. I wonder if mounting the saw to a piece of plywood and then somehow clamping to those. I want to get me a set of these.. they look very heavy duty and fold down into very compact size. https://www.harborfreight.com/32-in-steel-adjustable-sawhorse-1300-lb-capacity-57807.html?_br_psugg_q=sawhorse

I make my clock bases with my CNC.. I v-carve the bottom of the base with my business name.. works quite well for me. I typically set up and do a large batch of them all at once. About 15 minutes it makes about 8 of them with very little sanding or clean-up of them. I don't have a picture off hand but I've posted about it on here a couple years ago. Doing one offs on small projects is not worth the time with either the laser or the CNC so I mostly just write on my work with a fine point Sharpe marker.

My son used to work for a race car engine builder which use aluminum car engines and I'm building a older car that has a aluminum engine block. My engine block is bad looking with the oxidation that happens with aluminum. My son was looking my car over and I mentioned I'd like to find a way to clean that oxidation up and make the aluminum look new. He said the engine builder that he used to work for always used this stuff and it cleaned up really well to like fresh metal look. I'll likely be getting some of this stuff at some point but not until I get the engine reassembled which is a little ways out yet. Just thought I'd mention it here since we was talking about the table tops. I'm wondering if this might clean the tables up and keep them from marking up the back side of the wood. Bit pricey since most of us have mineral spirits or some other similar products that have already been mentioned. If I have any of this stuff left after cleaning up my car I might give it a try on my saw table.. For curiosity sake has anyone ever used this stuff or some other type cleaner to clean up aluminum? Maybe I'll learn of something better or cheaper etc. from someone here. https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Aluminum-Cleaner-Brightener-Concentrate/dp/B06XFZTTHJ

I bought my laser to in part make these myself, had the laser for 3-4 years now and never did design and make my own

I sent a message to the clipart site through their message system and claimed I as the designer of the ornament and also the owner of the photo.. showed a link to my website with the photo as I did here and asked them to please take it down. I don't know if that will do any good or not.

Is there an alternative to the Johnson's Paste wax? I've only got a couple years worth left in my can I've had since 2005.. So I'm going to need something in the future, LOL EDIT To Add: I found this google searching it. This list some alternatives. Since it was recently discontinued there might be some on a shelf in a store somewhere, I'm going to keep an eye out for some. Probably another can or two will last me the rest of my scrolling days, LOL Is Johnson's Paste Wax discontinued? Please note: Johnson Paste Wax will be discontinued on December 31, 2021. Freeman Wax Release, Trewax Clear Paste Wax, and Partall Paste #2 are the recommended alternatives.

From time to time I will search my business name to see if anyone is using it, Have had in the past where people use it or try to use it to sell their products which isn't cool. For instance this morning I did a random search and found one of my ornaments I designed some years ago.. my image is on this clipart site.. I've never given permission for the use of my image to be used.. http://www.clipartbest.com/clipart-dirxRp96T and here is my listing with the image: https://www.kevskrafts.com/listing/202313713/respiratory-therapist-christmas-ornament I also found this eBay listing stating made by KevsKrafts in the title.. While I have this design clock, I've never made it with that style base.. nor have I ever used a round over bit on the base before. They're selling it as used and probably searched for info on it and came across mine so they claimed it to be made by me.. I sign the bottom of all my clocks. This doesn't show any signage that I can see. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354019929160?hash=item526d3b6c48:g:bCQAAOSwjyBiYELE IF you have a Etsy or other venue business name out there it's good to check-up and search your name randomly you never know what kind of people will do to try to gain some fame off your work, whether it's your photos or selling woodwork pieces off your name.

I've read where others have complained about this with the Hawk saws tops, I never experienced it with my older Hawks but my new Hawk recently started doing this slightly.. I just used a Lacquer thinner and wiped it down good and then used the Johnson's paste wax. Sounds like yours is in need of a really good deep cleaning, you might need to take a fine grit scotch bright pad and attach it to a random orbital sander after wiping it with Lacquer thinner.. then wipe again after the scotch bright.. wax it good.. maybe even use the sander with a soft cloth and sort of buff the wax off.. maybe do that a couple times with the wax. IF it persist after that then I'm not sure.. top coat it with a clearcoat? LOL

If I get time I'll see if I can find it but meanwhile if you want to research the wood burner type signature you might try looking for custom made pyrography pens. It's been a few years since I picked up my set from a estate sale but at that time I was doing research on pens etc. and there was a site where you could custom order wood burner attachments with your signature etc. I had thought about doing that myself, but the downfall is you're sort of stuck with whatever size you choose. Doing something similar to what Brenda does or with a laser machine make you own rubber stamps etc. you could modify it to your needs. This is why I have not gone the branding iron route.. some items are quite small and warrant a smaller logo etc. while others it'd be nicer looking with a bit larger one.

Beautiful work Ray!!

Easily identified by color filling the project.. everything color filled will be attached to the main image, anything not connected to the main image ( drop outs or otherwise called floaters ) will remain the white. Color filling is also known as using the bucket fill tool.. What software are you using to create the pattern? I or someone else may be able to help further on how to do this if we know what program you're using.

Maybe on the bottom floor level, LOL.. I would think the vibration of the saw going through the saw stand and down to the floor might be a noise issue with a lower level tenant? I don't know.. just thinking about how I have a water tank for cooling my laser machine with a fish tank water pump stuck to the bottom of the water bucket.. that small pump running sure resonates to the downstairs of my shop. I don't have any insulation between the floors though so I'm not sure if a saw would make much noise for a downstairs tenant or not.. just a thought though.. As for dust collection.. I first started sawing in my house from 2005 - 2012-3 when I finally built my shop.. dust was minimal when using a 20" square box fan with a allergen pleated furnace filter on the back of the fan set up to pull the dust in. I used the saws air blower tube to blow the dust toward the side with the box fan to help suck it into the filter.. You might need to build a stool for the fan to sit up so the top of the fan is just about the height of the saw table. I think you'd do okay with that set-up.. so long as there is no vibration noise from the saw going through the floor.. maybe some foam pads on the floor if no carpet in the room.

Not a bad idea.. I can actually make rubber stamps with the laser.. I've heard it stinks bad cutting rubber but it'd be just a one time deal, LOL.. Imagine it'd take a long time to wear out the stamp.. LOL

I ended up ordering the Mac Mop. The Flap Wheel thing Dave mentioned really reminds me of the same thing as those sanding balls from HF.. they do last a long time however for what I use them for they aren't as aggressive as I'd like so that is my reasoning to try the Mac Mop.. will see how I like that I suppose. Thinking when I order again I might try buying the refill kits as Ray mentioned. The sanding ball from HF comes on a mandrel that comes apart so I'll just use a old one and instead of tossing it into my metal recycle bin I'll take it apart and try the refill onto the mandrel. Thanks for all the info everyone

Someone here a year or so ago was looking at buying a small one that was light weight, I think they ended up with either a ryobi or Kobalt and they got the little 7-1/4 inch blade one. Not sure who it was now. It was small for tight spaces and I assume light weight. The 7-1/4 blades are cheap but not sure how plentiful the specialty blades would be. anyway that might be something to look into. When I bought my saw not long ago Home Depot had one of those.. don't see those real small ones much. I never know they made then in the 7-1/4 blade sizes.

Just bought a DeWalt slider not too long ago. It's probably not what you want as it's big and heavy.. though I bought the DeWalt miter saw stand too so it is compact when folded and has wheels to move it around which is very easy.. Before the DeWalt I had a 10" hitachi.. I really liked it but I needed a saw that would cross cut 14" for ease of making signs etc. on my CNC. My old hitachi had a laser line light. My new DeWalt doesn't have it. I bought a upgraded handle for the "shadow light" but I have yet had time to install this new light so cannot say how well it works personally but read good reviews of it on their higher priced saws. When I bought it I thought it came with the light, thought I was getting a deal because it was cheaper but it's a different saw that the one with the light.. even though really the same saw but different model number and the only difference is the light.

Is this what you are referring too as star wheel? https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/dy93022/ This is what I was looking at and what I thought would work best for the type of sanding I'm looking to do.. I don't have a issue with fuzzies much either and when I do they are easily wipe clean with my orbital sander and or hand held map gas torch.. https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36999e/ I'm a cheapskate too, or at least try to be.. gotta splurge once in a while but.. LOL.. anyway that is why I have not bought a sanding mop yet, wanted one for about 10 years now.. but these HF sanding balls are cheap, last a long time.. but I wish it was a bit more aggressive.. 80grit is the most aggressive one they sell.. and in my orbital sander papers it would be more like 280 - 320 grit instead of 80 LOL.. The HF ball is on a mandrel.. I've thought about taking an old one apart and using sanding mop refills on the HF Ball mandrel.. Not sure if it'd work right for me.. not wanting to spend 2 hours fiddling with it to save $20 -$30, LOL kind of pointless then. LOL

Just wanted to say thank you all for your honest opinions on this idea I had brainstormed, I normally don't add a signature of any kind to ornaments.. they normally get put into small jewelry gift boxes with a business card inside the box. Sometimes I use the stickers to sort of seal the box lid onto the box. I ended up sanding off the clear and sticker and re-coating the clear on this project. Sometimes I brainstorm ideas thinking they might be easier or quicker and in the end I really need to just keep doing what I do. Thank you all for talking me out of doing any more of these like this, sometimes I need outside opinions to keep me on track with quality products.

Getting ready to place a order for sand paper from Kingspore and always wanted to try one of these sanders. I'm not sure what the bigger difference is between the two.. my plan is just to chuck it into my old drill press for help with "taking the edge off" of clock bases and whatnot since I don't really use a round over bit etc. in a router. Currently just hit them with hand sanding. I keep reading about how nice they are to use etc. My biggest question is what is the grit you most use? I've been buying these from HF. These are cheap but work well so long as you get the proper grit for the job. With these I buy the 80grit ( I think ) and was surprised at how little they are in the aggressive point.. You'd think 80grit would remove a lot of material and fast.. just not the case with these.. I don't know if these sanding mop things are like that as well? Hate to spend the $40 + on 80 and have it be too aggressive or whatever grit I get I'd like to have an idea of what grit to buy, LOL Thank you all for your input on these https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-80-grit-abrasive-ball-61182.html

I've had luck doing that with items that are square or have long straight edges.. I've taken the cut oval ornaments out while leaving the wood in the machine flip the ornament over and stick it back in the hole where I just cut it out of.. but the ornament is slightly smaller and has wiggle room in the hole that it was just cut from.. probably not a difference if I was engraving another photo but text can run crooked etc. doing it this way.. I may play around more with it as when I tried this was when I was brand new to lasering.. I struggled to get it to engrave where I wanted it too, LOL I might be able to do it now that I've kind of learned the machine and software etc.

I do, I'm usually working on building my inventory up on my ornaments throughout the whole summer. Was cutting ornaments today in fact. I like those trees, really neat idea..

Yeah, when I first started doing laser work I thought the same thing.. I've tried to engrave both sides but many times end up ruining it because it don't take hardly any movement to get it off center then the back side looks worst because it's not engraved in the correct spot. I now have a method / template or jig that might make that process go better.. the issue is every photo crops differently and isn't always the same size.. so the jig would need to be made for each photo engrave.. I haven't found any super easy way to line everything up perfectly to do both sides yet, still working / thinking on that.. I might figure it out at some point.

Thank you, I sort of felt the same way but only after I clear coated it, LOL.. actually I did try to peel it back off once i put it on but it was trying to rip and not come off so I stuck it back down and cleared over it.

While this method won't really work with fretwork / scroll sawn ornaments I was wondering what your thoughts are on placing stickers or signing your work on the back side of ornaments. This is a custom personalized photo lasered ornament for a client and I placed the sticker ( custom made from Vistaprint from the return address template )on the back side which is blank. My wife says she don't like it that way, I've always wanted a way to mark my ornaments ( really difficult with scroll sawn ornaments so don't do it on those ) for the customers or gift recipients to know where it came from etc. I could very easily just flip the ornament over and engrave my website on the back etc. However doing that ties up the laser from doing more engraving. Stickers are quick.. but at the same time don't want to cheapen my product by being quick if that makes any sense. It's not like this is a hand wood burned engraving etc. so I feel like personalized with a hand burned signature really isn't warranted. Maybe I just need to sign it with a Sharpe pen like I do my clocks and other handmade / scroll sawn items.. The sticker was just a idea I thought I'd try. Wondering what your thoughts are for this. I'm guessing you'll say hand signed with Sharpe. Too late now on this one as I clear coated over the sticker,

I bought several sheets of BBply once I seen the price hikes and heard that it may be hard to get it.. I've got about a 2-3 year supply.. Meanwhile I have been searching alternatives.. and so far I really like the quality of the Columbia Forest Project Panels from Home Depot.. I use the thin 5/32" stuff but they have 1/4" also. Comes in a variety of species but so far I've only tried the Maple. I'm using it for Portraits and Ornaments so far but I also will be trying it with signs that'd have a backer on them. In the past I've also used this for cutting jigsaw puzzles and had good results. I'm not sure how the pricing is on this stuff compared to BBply, I know it was a bit more $$ than BBply back when I tried it.. but it is available. I'm not sure what you're trying to make but also have read about flooring underlayment? or something like that.. maybe someone else can chime in on that stuff.