kmmcrafts

They are most likely Olsen blades.. I had several packages of blades with my Ultra too when I unboxed it.. They were Olsen reverse tooth blades. They was the most common blades back in the mid 90's I think. Bushton sells FD, Pegas, Pikes, and Olsen now I think.. so you have something to choose from.

+1 for Artcraftersonline.. IF you're looking for one place to buy both brands you can go through Bearwood, Lesley's Patterns, Bushton Manufacturing ( RBI Hawk ). There is another place I have ordered from but can't think of it now.. I have ordered from all the places I mentioned above with good results other than Lesley's Patetrns.. they gave good service but they are sometimes slow at getting them out in the mail.. order well ahead of time if you go through them..

When you get used to cutting fast ( thin materials ) and then you start cutting thick hard woods etc.. it's like watching paint dry. I think this is why some folks get the impression that I'm all about cutting fast because I'm doing this for a living to make money and time is money.. which is true time is money.. but liking to cut fast has nothing to do with trying to be in a hurry to make that extra $$.. I charge based on my time and don't worry about what others charge. I just like cutting fast as that is how I learned to cut..

Wonderful work as always Brenda! I also learned scroll sawing on 1/8 and 1/4 material without stack cutting. If you're pretty proficient at it ( looks like you are when I see your projects ) you probably will have the opposite of what everyone else has.. Most think the thin stock cuts way too fast for them and they' cannot control the blade.. If you stack cut you might find ( like I did ) that each layer you add to the stack slows your cut down. When you cut thick stock it goes way to slow for you and many times you start "pushing " too hard and bowing the blade..

Sorry your lookers wasn't buyers... I honestly think they are worth well over the $40 price.. but how to convince a potential customer to see that value is something different.. They are beautiful and well crafted. A couple things come to mind, Maybe the show just didn't have the right crowd to see the value in them.. In some weird way.. sometimes the potential customer sees a cheap price which in turn makes them feel as if there is no value in it.. even though they love it.. the price is too cheap so they don't want it.. I have some family and friends that value everything by the price they paid for something.. ( ie have a relative that will buy $600 sun glasses and then almost forget them ( I believe on purpose ) just so he can say loudly in the restaurant oh dang I almost left my $600 glasses on the table or stupid things like "I'm not walking through this sand in my $800 sandals.. ) Sometimes you have to play games with customers.. ie mark them at $80 but you're running a 50% off sale.. that is if you're happy to get the $40 for them. That large of a % off though may make the customer think that you can't sell them so you're desperate to move them.. maybe 20 - 30% is a better option I was just making an example..

Got to be very careful what you put into a laser cutter.. toxic fumes are a dangerous thing.. yes you vent it outside but don't always get 100% of it.. also have to be considerant of neighbors if they're close.. I know folks suggest cutting / carving foam with the CNC because it's easier on the carving bits for newbies.. If you don't get the feed and router / spindle speeds set right you can ruin a $50 - 100 bit in like 2 seconds.. learning these machines if you're brand-new to them can be pricey too.. Don't ask how I know, LOL

I had to google it... then I was like oh yeah I know what those are, LOL Used ones are going for $40-60.. https://www.google.com/search?q=Longaberger+basket&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS778US778&sxsrf=AOaemvJ74a2nKnHfKYgFX648FZdmuDzybQ:1636244340046&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwids52V_YT0AhVYGs0KHYRDCDUQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1745&bih=852&dpr=1.1

The edges are burnt, but kinda hard to see in these photos with the black background. Most laser cut stuff you see from others has a yellowish stain around the edges too.. That's somewhat because of needing a better air assist blower and also sometimes not having the right temp / speed setting.. but that said sometimes it's not avoidable too.. For me.. I engrave pretty deep.. and then sand the ornaments face and back to get rid of the stained edges that they get on the face and back. Most all laser stuff on etsy looks as though they do not sand it and just leave it however it is straight out of the machine. Something I don't really like is the campfire smell.. so instead of my normal quick dip in Danish oil, I end up spraying a top coat on to seal and mask the smell.. Danish oil doesn't quite get it like the top coat finishes do. I like the quick drying water based poly best as it doesn't have strong fumes when spraying it inside the shop and dries really quick.

Actually both, I've seen 4 scrolls saws and just one of the bandsaws used on the sale sites..

I've seen about 4 of the Pegas saws for sale on Craigslist and FB.. just none of them anywhere close to me or it'd be in my shop.. LOL

No this is my K40 laser.. The one for the CNC is a very low power 2 watt diode laser which is only good for engraving. That one has a working 24 x 24 working area and is open ended so I could tile the project and do 24 x indefinite length.. It's just low powered and in my opinion hardly worth the down time from carving to set it up and run the laser on it.. The K40 is probably 5 - 8 times or more faster.. plus will cut projects.. My K40 is just a cheapy from eBay that I believe I paid $340 shipped for.. The larger ones I'm looking at getting start at around $1700 and depending on the format size and bells and whistles can go way up around maybe $8-9000.. If you was looking to get a laser I recommend purchasing through Omtech.. the smaller 40watt are the same as the K40 I have but they are gone through by Omtech and have a better out of the box more reliable machine than just going to eBay and taking a chance on what you get.. You might have to do a lot of work to get the cheaper ones to work right..

Yes done completely with the laser.. Wood is 1/8 BBply.. I have cut 1/4 ply and solid wood with one pass with it but most times it requires me to cut it two passes meaning having to cut it twice to cut all the way through.

The whole reason for buying my laser was that I got a lot of request for personalized ornaments.. as in adding names, dates, company names etc. etc. to existing designs I was selling. I did as much as I could but as everyone knows the more holes the weaker the wood and doing text with scroll saws ( especially very small text ) is somewhat tough to do.. especially for those that want a lot of text added.. Anyway I used to turn away a whole lot of work because of too much text or many various reasons. My original intention was to scroll saw the custom ornaments ahead as blanks and have the added space for laser engraving. This proved to be complicated and almost just as time consuming as scrolling each individual ornament trying to line up the correct spot to engrave etc. I found myself messing up a quite a few ornament blanks thus throwing out a lot of hard work that was otherwise a good hand cut ornament blank. SO I finally just broke down and did away with the handmade ( scroll sawn ) ornament with the custom request.. I make certain my customer knows that I have a machine that makes the ornament from start to finish. Honestly.. I have yet to see a customer that really cared HOW the item was made.. they just see the design / ornament and see a perfect themed gift for that special person they know.. Below is a couple samples of what I make and how I design the custom made spot for the engraved part. I crossed out the name for privacy reasons on the one ornament shown.. The other customer just reached out asking about adding text the the target practice themed ornament.. I made one for her and she liked it so much she asked for several more names etc. for friends.. I can see the personalization of various ornaments being a big hit.. I do not advertise at all about custom laser engraving etc.. but I get a crap load of customer request every year... The time from turning on the laser to a finished engrave and cut out ornament is about 6 minutes. Also adding the ability to laser a photo ornament has been growing very popular. I did a video of one on TikTok that I made for my son as he just got a new to him Cummins Dodge truck.. Wish he would sell one of the other 4 he has, my yard looking like a car lot.. between my to boys cars.. LOL https://www.tiktok.com/@kevskrafts/video/7025232222143778054?lang=en&is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v1 After showing this on TikTok I am flooded with request, LOL Anyone here on TikTok?

Yes VOC's ( Volatile organic compounds ) can be different from container size's.. but I was talking about 3 different Watco Danish Oils.. they are different because they all are gallon containers and each has a different VOC.. Yet there is little to no info on the cans or in explaining the different purposes etc. I'm curious what the difference really is.. I can say the newer to me stuff is thicker.. like it has more oil or poly in it? who knows.. they all seem to have the same ingredients as far as I could tell.. though gotta be honest I may have missed something looking at the two different cans because I didn't have my reading glasses and they make the print small.. It's probably the same stuff but different mix ratios?

So the one I'm currently using ( one I like better ) is this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-gal-Natural-350-VOC-Danish-Oil-2-Pack-65732/202067184 The one I had been using is this one.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gal-Natural-Danish-Oil-2-Pack-65731/202067183 There is actually another one that is quite pricey here.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-gal-Natural-275-VOC-Danish-Oil-2-Pack-242217/204793060 Reading the cans.. I see no difference in the label between the cans other than the sticker with the bar code..

I just wanted to get the message out there before I forgot again.. I discovered the difference a couple months ago.. I intend to look to see if the cans say anything different on them.. since I still have the old cans.. I can also look in my bookkeeping to look up the receipt to see which one I bought last.. Just been busy and don't think of it unless I'm actually using / finishing.. I do my finishing in the morning so I can keep an eye on the drying as sometimes it'll seep out droplets from the wood grain and if I don't catch it it'll dry on it then leave me a clump of shinny clear in one spot, LOL

I've not seen these before.. says it's washable.. looks like it might just be a single layer and probably won't work as well with sawdust as the pleated furnace filter.. just wondering if anyone had any experience with them? https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-Safe-20-in-Box-Fan-Filter-FF-20/307280271?MERCH=REC-_-cart-_-NA-_-307280271-_-N

Okay so I discovered there is two different types of Danish oil.. I used to buy my Danish oil locally at my lumber supplier or box store.. During the onset of Covid and the lockdowns my lumber supplier shut down business for a short time and I needed Danish oil so I turn to the internet and found the best price ( at the time ) to be on Home Depots website with free delivery.. Though you could only order by the case 2 gallon at a time.. I noticed there was two types of natural color.. one is VOC 350 and the other is VOC 275.. Not really knowing what I had been using I just did the rock paper scissors and guessed .. It was no different than what I had been using.. Then when I ran out again this spring it was hard to find any Danish oil.. I happen to stop in the local lumber yard and they had quarts.. and only a few.. so I bought all but one.. didn't want to hog them all, LOL.. Then a month or so later I seen the one kind was available on HD site but not the other.. Not really remembering what I had bought the last time or even what one I bought this time.. I just open up the new can a month or so ago and been meaning to post my observation here but forget to do it in the evening when I come in, LOL Anyway, just did some dipping and thought I'd better post this info up.. This new stuff I'm using seems like it's much better quality.. seems to have more oil? it's a bit more thicker than the other stuff.. Seems like it dries a bit quicker and it gives a lot more luster to the dried / finished piece.. and a darker tint to it when pouring it out than the others I had used.. I'm really liking this stuff much more than the other that I had been using for many years.. I need to look up my order and see what one it is that I bought last time.. It feels and looks so much more ( I don't even know the word to use ) richer? Anyway, maybe you all already know this and I'm just now learning something but thought I'd bring it up because I thought for the last 15 years that Danish oil was all the same ( other than the colored / stained mixes. ) but they are not..

You need to work for Pegas, LOL

Nice work! you've been busy, LOL Hoping you sell out so you don't have to bring it back home.. If you have business cards you should slip one in each bag.. I do that and also I add a choking warning not for small children label.. I just found a google image of a warning label I liked.. printed them off and stick them inside.. I now designed one to use through vistaprint.. and I use the address return label format but make them a sticker now.. because I kept forgetting to insert those printed ones.. I use shrink wrap so ones it's sealed I can reopen it..

Very nice!!! That'll make cutting projects more fun, LOL

So I had a clock order and had to cut some solid wood today... I cut 5/8" Cherry with the #5 super sharps.. I played around cutting the base for the 6 clocks with several different sizes and styles of blades. The bases are about 11" long straight cuts with rounded corners and about 2 " wide. The straight cuts are ripping the grain or cutting in the same direction of the grain and the 2" portion is cross cutting.. As everyone knows long straight cuts going with the grain can be a pain to cut. The #5 super sharps did perform better than the Pegas in my opinion.. Did all the cutting on the EX-21.. I also ran some blades ( I used to like ) Olsen PGT #5 and PGT double skip tooth which wasn't as good for me as the Pegas but slightly better than the FD-UR... I think I'd consider using them more if I were doing a lot of thick solid wood cutting. Blades did last quite a long time for me.. maybe about 1/4 - 1/2 times longer than the Pegas lasted.. which is quite a lot more than the FD-UR blades.. Next test... I want to try the #2 and maybe even the #5 on poplar for the 3/4" puzzles whenever I get a chance at making some of those again.. They might perform quite well for those.. Anyway, that is my experience so far with these.. Hopefully I'll be able to try them on a puzzle soon. Something I've never done is compound cutting ( is that what it's called ) where you cut those thick blocks of wood on two sides to create those ornament and birdhouses.. I think the SS blades would be the only way to go on those.. LOL

This is a big reason I don't do in person craft shows.. I had a couple instances with children grabbing things off my table breaking them and then one time two kids horsing around and the one kid turn to run and ran straight into my table which knocked the whole table over and all my stuff crashed to the ground.. I love kids.. but not the ones that aren't parented correctly.. honestly isn't the kids fault.. they didn't know any better.. parents on the other hand.. should know to keep and eye on the kids..

I do agree with you about the Pegas blades being the best I've used as well, I was just kinda pointing out that using different saws is going to get different results when trying new blades.. etc. as they do each cut differently. What little I used the SS blades I felt like they was a close second to the Pegas as in cutting style, speed, and longevity of blade life... Not as clean of a cut on the bottom though.. But as you said, not worth the extra $$ I try to be educated on blades of all brands and get a feel for them.. There was a time some years ago that my "go to blade" was back ordered for several weeks.. and it was a mess to try to learn a new blade until I finally got my blade order.. Very possible especially these days that could happen again.. Probably not for me because I now keep a extra gross of my most used blades on hand.

I wonder how you'd feel about the blades run on the same saw.. because no matter how straight up down you get the blade on a EX21 it cuts more aggressive than the Hawk does.. and I kind of assume Hegner too but I can't vouch for that because I've not run one.. I have a old Delta 16" saw that has the longer arms style like the Hawk and it cuts a lot like the Hawk.. Those double parallel arm saws have a rocking motion to the blade and makes them cut a little more aggressive.. There was a time when I first started using the Pegas MFG blades that I didn't like them in the DW788 I had but loved them in the Hawk, Now I use them pretty much exclusively no matter what saw