kmmcrafts

That'll be nice.. I look forward to seeing the finished piece.

Do you happen to have smaller blades? I fined some cases a smaller blade will cut a bit faster and last longer.. Thanks for updating this.. I have yet to try these on solid wood..

I'm not certain how much they was charging, IF I was to make one and carved it out like these are.. I'd probably consider it a safer idea to buy a new tank that had never had LP in it yet.. maybe they are new tanks that they carve.. Personally I'd rather just "paint" old tanks like that and use the glow-in-dark paints or reflective paints or vinyl wrap etc.. Just don't do it with gas in them as I believe they legally have to be white with the stickers showing? If it's legal to have other colors then you could paint them.. and storage could be on your gas grille LOL..

Totally agree.. When I first got the hanging filter I could tell right away that it's not something that'll do great for the whole shop.. I have a big dust collector but it's only hooked up to my planner but that thing is more of a chip collector than fine dust.. Cheap box fan and filter set up has been the most effective and cheapest part of dust collecting. I'm going to get two fans to run.. I have a sanding station that is at the other end of the shop.. I got tired of moving the fan.. The hanging filter system does still get quite a lot of stuff in the filter.. but probably from my sanding station when I'm too lazy to move the fan.. just to sand something small real quick. I have always wanted to set up collection right at the saw.. and I bought a system to build with a cheap metro vac and dust separator thing.. I still haven't built it.. in part because I also bought a Seyco scroll saw dust vac.. basically what I bought to build at double to cost, LOL Anyway since the Seyco was just plug and play I did set that up to my Excalibur... but while not loud.. it's not quiet either and I like to listen to the radio while scrolling.. only time I hear the radio is in between cuts unless I blast the radio so the neighbors can also listen, LOL.. I'm not playing free music for them.. If I have to pay for the cd then I'm not playing it for free to them, .. they can buy their own cd

I might try one of these.. I need a 20 x 20 butthey have them for around $18.. Buying the better furnace filters for allergies cost close to the same.. and they clog up fast.. I do use them for 6 - 12 months.. I just tap the loose dust off and once in a while take it outside with the air hose and blow them out good.. They start falling apart after 6-8 months but I push them out to about a year if I can.. But the metal one should last a very long time if I could wash it out with a hose.. I wonder how well they filter..in comparison to the furnace ones.. It says for use with dust etc.. Hmmm.. Anyone have experience with them? I might have to be the try..

These came across on FB Marketplace and I thought they was too neat to not share with others.. They carved out old LP grill tanks for Halloween decorations.. I can't remember the price now I'm thinking they were selling for $35..

Some years back I thought I run across a metal type filter that could be washed off with a water hose etc. Anyone seen that or using one? My box fan quit working after 12 years.. they just don't make them like they used to.. most times I forgot to turn it off and I'd go to the shop the next day and not even need to turn it back on.. Some dust escapes the filter and covers the blade, motor etc.. used a air hose over the years to blow the dust off the blade etc. and blow it directly into the motor for more power.. but never helped. Honestly amazed that that cheap Lasco fan made it more than a year.. Must have been a bad day because I normally try repairing things.. not this time.. as I heard the garbage truck down the road at the neighbors I hurried out the shop ran out there so I could throw that thing in the truck myself... boy that felt good.. Now searching for a new one and WOW.. prices have doubled.. thinking now I'm mad because I tossed it out.. I'm almost 100% sure it was just the 3 speed switch.. it had been turning hard for maybe 5 years, motor always ran good and smooth.. most of the fans in the house the switch works but to motor makes a buzzing sound.. couple drops of oil and it repairs it for a couple years until the same thing... that shop fan never once did that.. maybe all that sawdust helped, LOL.. Looking online I found they sell replacement switches for just a couple bucks.. but that doesn't do me anything now that I tossed it in the garbage truck.. Anyway, I guess I need to shop for a new fan, and was wondering about those metal mesh filters.. I have the air filtration system that hangs from the ceiling.. That thing doesn't get even half the fine dust floating around.. Sure miss that fan and I never realized how much that thing filtered out until it was gone for the last couple weeks the shop has had a dust cloud.. Thinking I'm going to get two of the fans.. What filters you all run since I need those too.

I kinda imagined O/P found us doing a google search.. I don't think Travis designed this site to be for only educated questions and discussions either.. I kinda been biting my tongue on that reply of his.. as the written word has no expression and can be read in many different ways.. I don't think he meant it as we are reading it.. but you really do have to be careful how you write things to get them across in the way that you intended. The way it's read by you and I is very demeaning not only to the new person but also Travis too.. as this is the whole reason Travis puts in all his efforts to keep this site up and going smoothly is to help teach others and bring together a online community.. Not to tell them to google and youtube to learn before coming here to ask a question.

That turned out nice!! what finish did you choose?

I think any oil will be flammable.. heck.. last I knew so was wood.. cutting board oil is nothing more than food grade mineral oil and doesn't ever really dry. Paint and other finishes are flammable too before they dry as well. The mineral spirits will evaporate I believe and just leave the linsed oil.. There is a Watco Butcher block oil but it has some sort of varnish or clear coat sealer.. great stuff but I would think the heat might melt that coating on a trivet.. Beeswax will burn as well think candles.. But all of these flammables I would think would be safe for a hot pan.. but might be an issue if you put flame on it.. but that goes for wood material too.. I did a video how to make the cutting board oil a few years back.. you can view it here. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

Yeah that's what I was thinking too.. and originally bought for solid wood.. I just so happen to be cutting 150 ornaments for a bulk order and thought I'd try.. The smaller blade worked really well other than lots of fuzzies on the back of the bottom stack.. I intend to try them on solid wood.. might be a long time from now though as I just got another bulk order for another 150 ornaments.. it's plywood season for me probably until the end of the year, LOL Thanks for the tidbit from their site, I didn't see that.. but I did know that a reverse tooth design is best for ply..

I should also mention that there are scroll saw files too.. https://www.pswood.com/scroll-saw-files/ Seems like there are some other brands of scroll saw sanders and files but these are the only two I found.. I don't think many folks buy or use them anymore so maybe the other brands dropped the product. Pretty darn easy to just superglue some strips of sandpaper to a old saw blade.. or piece of scrap wood that can fit into the blade holder of the saw..

That info actually helps a lot!!.. You can buy or make scroll saw sanders.. I find a lot of beginners ask about sanding inside the cutouts.. I did this myself when first starting out.. The sanders you buy https://www.americanwoodcrafterssupply.com/catalog/sanding-supplies/scroll-sanders-by-olson/ don't always fit every brand of scroll saw.. and sometimes the big clunky plastic ends are too big to fit through the cutout.. Many folks use a old saw blade and glue pieces of sand paper to the blade.. popsicle sticks work well as does fingernail files.. I think there is even some sort of small jewelers file set that some folks use... Once you get some saw time and learn different blades and uses for said blades you'll likely ditch the whole sanding the cutouts.. many times I just use the side of the balde to shave and shape a rough edge.. I hope this helps you find what you need to do the sanding you need / want. or at least maybe gave you an idea of some things to try..

Soo, I finally open up the mailer to check out the blades this morning. They come with plastic storage tubes like many of us buy to store our blades which is nice but also if you use a ton of blades eventually you'll be overloaded with those tubes.. other thing to note was they do not come all bundled / wired together.. maybe the larger quantity ones do I don't know.. Sadly I could use a couple (3) storage tubes to put in the slots on the Excaliburs onboard blade holder holes but these tubes was to large to fit.. First run on the blades today stack cutting 4 1/8" stacks BBply of ornaments. As many of you know the glue in plywood is tough on saw blades.. I normally can cut two sets of ornaments from a Pegas #3 or #5.. but usually toward the end of the second stack the blade is getting quite dull and should be changed.. I usually just push on through but sometimes change it before the second set is complete. Anyway the #2 super sharps are definitely sharp and last longer.. I was able to cut 3 sets of ornaments and possibly could have done slightly more but it definitely was not tracking turns etc. as well nearing the end of the second stack so I really was pushing the blade beyond for the 3rd set.. Longer lasting than the Pegas but maybe only by 10-15%... Cut was nice and smooth along the sides of the cut.. bottom piece not so much.. since there is no reverse teeth there will be much needed sanding of fuzzies.. in most cases with the Pegas blades little to no sanding after the cut due to me normally pre-sanding.. Did a test cut with the #5 cutting same stacked material and not at all impressed.. The #5 seemed to cut slower than a #5 Pegas and was giving me some tare out on the bottom.. I think they would probably work well with solid lumber but just guessing on that as I haven't tried yet.. probably won't be working with any solid lumber for a while as my return customers are starting to order their large quantity ornament orders.. just got a 150 pcs order last night so.. that'll take be about 3 - 3.5 days of cutting BBply, LOL I wouldn't say they are a definite no use blade for my works but for the added price and a cleaner cut from Pegas I'll continue with Pegas...

Yeah they are awesome saws.. I love my Excalibur.. my biggest issue is longevity of the saws.. I've been real close to ordering the better designed Pegas saw.. Might be one in my shop before the end of the year.

Good question and I don't know the answer but in theory the coarser blade has less teeth per inch.. while they are larger and take a bigger bite.. two times as many smaller teeth with smaller bite moves more material faster.. Dull faster maybe because the larger teeth are cutting slower than the several smaller teeth and makes user try to push through the material harder creating more heat.. Also consider that most of the larger / coarser blades also have a wider kerf.. thus the blade has to remove a larger amount of material.. even though its the same distance to cut though a project the larger blade is removing more material than the smaller blade.. Think of the energy used for blade life as in.. example.. Say you have 5 big burly guys to move a log across the field.. they can pick it up a take it for a ways but get tired out quick compared to 20 smaller guys, LOL

It's 50% BLO ( Boiled Linseed Oil ) and 50% Mineral Spirits which is almost the same thing as Watco Danish Oil.. Danish oil does have a bit of polyurethane and some dryers added to it for a bit ( supposedly ) more protection against the elements.. Both probably excellent for the intended purpose of the trivet.. If you have either already on hand.. Good luck with it, Maybe some pictures of the finished piece?

Maybe your heat gun works better than mine.. I have the cheapest one HF offered at the time.. low is hot enough to melt the wax.. but doesn't blow enough air to blow the melted wax out of the nooks and crannies. Put it on high and you can start a fire with it, LOL.. so in my case.. the hair drier work best for that job.. Just wish HF would sell hair dryers.. lots of weird looks at the bald guy in the beauty store buying a hair dryer.. SO with all the weird looks I went back to the hair spray.. That have a brand called "Big Sexy Hair".. so I bought that too.. at the register I mentioned I didn't know they had "big sexy hair in a can but I couldn't wait to try it and show the wife her new man with big sexy hair.. Everyone on the store was laughing for some reason.. and once I got home I realized that the big sexy hair was just pattern glue.. should have taken it back for faulse advertising as there was no hair in the can I got..LOL

When you get too much wax in the nooks and crannies use a hair dryer and melt it.. the air pressure from the hair dryer will blow the melted drips off the back side so have a paper towel down for easier cleanup.. I used to use this mix on all my clocks and ornaments.. hair dryer works well for that excess..

Just don't try peeing in it,

I'm not sure exactly what would be "the best" finish but, I will say I highly doubt a "top coat" finish would hold up without being damaged in some way. Top coat meaning clear sprays or clear coats.. I would think maybe the best option would be a oil type finish such as BLO or Danish oil etc.. I'm far from being any expert in finishing so maybe someone will add to what I have suggested..

Your experience is the same for me.. I've never had good results from any of the skip tooth blades.. Someone years ago suggested I use skip tooth on a project I was working on.. back then I was normally using FD-UR.. and I found that they did cut better for me the the skip tooth.. Now days I use mostly Pegas.. and mostly the #3.. For me the kerf of a #5 is that much more material to remove for the blade and many times making the cut go slower than just going through with the #3 and taking it slow as to not bow the blade.. I agree with Dan.. on the blade selection.. everyone has to find that blade that works for them.. The way the saw is set up makes a huge difference too.. when I first started using Pegas MFG blades I couldn't use them on my DeWalt but loved them in my Hawk.. I eventually got used to using them with whatever saw but at first on the DW they was a bit aggressive.. For these reasons.. In those topics of what blades to use.. I always suggest sample packs of each style blade.. I will say what my blade of choice is.. but always suggest sample packs..

I apologize for my response I made... Maybe I didn't read into it well enough. I'm glad you came back and responded so we know you're still here. We go through spells here where a newer person ask a vague question and then disappear.. Those many times can be consider spammers or fishers for info.. People take time to respond and you get no response back from them.. not even the little heart emoji things so IF a question is asked and then it seems a few days go by with no response I don't put in my answer.. because many times I'm probably responding to space. There is a emoji thing at the bottom of each post / reply it's a heart thing at the bottom.. click on it and there is a drop down menu you can choose different emoji icons, the purple one is a thank you.. using these can help people know you're still following the topic and haven't disappeared. Might help from getting smartass replies like mine.. Now for a better response.. now that I know you are looking for many various methods of sanding.. For flat work like portraits all the way down to small ornaments etc.. all being flat work.. I have a sanding matt that I use.. I buy the non-slip shelf liner stuff from the dollar stores it's in a roll and I fold it up to the size I need rather than cutting it to the size of my sanding work.. This gives it more cushion and anti slip power. Almost all my sanding is done with a 5" random orbital sander.. A variable speed one is a must so you can slow it down for delicate pieces. Honestly all my scroll work is flat work. I don't like sanding so I've not done much of the "shaping" type of scroll work. I do have a spindle sander for doing various sanding but it really don't get used hardly enough to justify the space it takes up in my shop, LOL

I use those quite a lot.. I get them at Harbor Freight for like $8-10 each.. They are more of a ball shape than a cone like yours unless you worn yours down like that.. I use it in my drill press though..

Exactly!!! and why I have not put in my 2cents yet.. maybe OP will not come back to respond either.. Also correct blade selection for said project can make the difference of "needing" to sand or not.. Saw dialed in with proper blade alignment also make a world of difference.. I rarely get fuzzies on the back... even with spiral blades.. I pre-sand all my work and rarely have to sand after finishing the project..