jerry1939
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Everything posted by jerry1939
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Hi, I have a 10+ year old Performax saw, that I bought from Menards (a home improvement store in only 3 or 4 States in the Midwest USA.) (They are not made anymore.) The blade tension is in back like yours. I NEVER tension the blade. Just hold the top arm down when clamping the blade. I hold the bottom of a new blade with a thin vice-grip to know how far down to clamp the bottom. You quickly learn where to position the top of the blade before clamping it. To see some my work go to: Bragging Rights - Page 9 - "Some of my stuff" By the way, my old saw died peacefully in it sleep recently. Have a new saw here and am building a stand for it now. Pictures to follow later. jerry
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My computer sssstudders! jerry
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I have a ton of experience drilling metal. Some IMPORTANT rules to follow: I have a ton of experience drilling metal with electric hand drills. 1. With metal, you MUST use a center punch. Otherwise when you start to push, the tip of the bit starts to go around in circles, breaking the bit. 2. Grab the chuck end of the bit and pinch your fingers at a length just more than you normally need for your work. Place the spiral end in a vice and give the exposed "chuck end" a good whack with a hammer to break it off. Don't use more bit length than you need. 3. When using a hand (electric) drill, use your third finger on the trigger. Form a straight line through the bit, drill, hand and arm. The way you are holding your drill now, the harder you push, the more you bend the bit, causing it to break. 4. Reread line 3 and say, "Duh." That makes perfect sense. jerry jerry
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Me again. Did this work? If not, I can be found beating my head against the wall !! jerry
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Just noticed that the picture didn't load, but you get the idea. jerry
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Because I am very narrow minded (Don't start you guys!!), I only do a few kinds of projects, therefore I don't have a desire or need for the large selection of blades many of you have. I have written about this quit some time ago, but because of this article, I decided to post a picture of my blade storage. The containers are empty plastic water bottles with labels scotch taped on. The front of the "spice rack" is a scrap piece of molding I had. There is a rubber band around both the top and the bottom of each bottle. If I have a slightly used blade that I'm done with, I attach it to the outside of the bottle. When I switch blade size, I return that bottle upside down into the rack. That way, my old brain remembers what size/style blade is in the saw. You could make the rack as wide as your heart desired. jerry
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I am a bottom feeder. Also put blue tape on top & bottom. After drilling, I use an awl to create a cone shape on the bottom to help guide the blade. jerry
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And to think that during all your working years, you so looked forward to the peaceful tranquility of retirement !!!! As you are playing with your power tools, PLEASE stay focused and keep this event out of your mind. Sooooo glad everyone is OK. My Dad (RIP) used to say, "As long as nobody has to buy flowers for a funeral, it could have been worse. jerry
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I would echo "mgmine." I always choose a corded tool. Always full power. I too use a jig saw. It gives you a wide variety of blades to choose from. Happy with mine. Use it for larger pieces that don't fit the band saw. jerry
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Being of unsound mind and body, I downloaded Gimp a year ago. Watched tutorial videos and also received excellent help from some of you fine members. However, the Gimp version I have is newer than they updated in their "Help???" section. Have always felt that the old ways are simpler and less of a pain in the neck. I only do 3 or 4 portraits a year. I staple together (on the top only) the photo, tracing paper and plain paper on the bottom. A few paper clips around the edges also. I TRACE my patterns, while watching for bridges. Occasionally remove the paper clips, lift the photo & tracing paper to see what I missed. Use White Out to create anymore bridges that are needed. Put the finished pattern in a clear sheet protector and lay it on a copy machine. I certainly respect and admire those of you that keep showing your talent at using computer programs, but it isn't my cup of tea. jerry
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Gordie, You are a True Canadian Gentleman !! Thank you, jerry
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Help !! I am blind on one eye and cannot see out of the other. Cannot find it in "New Pattern Section." Can any of you help an old geezer? Thank you, jerry
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As usual, I must be doing something wrong
jerry1939 replied to jerry1939's topic in General Scroll Sawing
As usual, all you folks are awesome. Immediately share your wisdom. It is very much appreciated !! jerry -
I do not do stack cutting, as I am not interested in craft shows or Christmas ornaments. Just did a Word Art with small words superimposed on larger words. Cut with 1/8" BB for the top (good) piece, with a 1/4" "sacrifice board" on the bottom. On 3 places, the inside of the letter "V" chipped. Had never mixed sawdust & glue for a repair before. Did that, but was concerned that the paste might not bond, so I put a tiny spot of glue on, with the paste over that. FAILURE. Only ended up with glue showing. Threw it away. The good news: The only ply I had for a sacrifice board was 1/4" BB (which I put on the bottom, to support the thin, narrow shapes above.) Threw away the top board, which was intended to be used, BUT THE "SACRIFICE BOARD ON THE BOTTOM IS PERFECT." From now on, if I ever try this again, I will sandwich "the good" 1/8" between two 1/8" sacrifice boards. Thoughts welcome and appreciated. jerry
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I never sell anything. Keep a very few and give away almost everything to family, friends, Church Organizations, Retirement homes, Senior Clubs, etc. Just my way of trying to leave things that will be handed down for generations. jerry
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I have a sliding miter saw. Made a wooden "Speed square" that I screwed to the saw fence on the right of the blade. The distance to the blade is the width that I want to cut. For the left side, I made 2 pieces of wood. The lower holds the piece I am cutting (1/4" oak) to the right. On top of that is glued a 1/4" ply that extends outward to the right. This is to prevent the piece I am cutting from bouncing. A long handle pointing about 45 degrees out for a holder. The reason for all this is: I like to work with 1/4" solid oak. Almost impossible to find stock that isn't warped. Started cutting it into strips, marking them, turning every 2nd one over and gluing them back together. Have had good success with this method. Already had the saw, am an old geezer that doesn't want to buy any more "stuff." jerry
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http://www.foxnews.com/tech/2015/08/06/windows-10bugs-emerge/?intcmp=hpff jerry
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Hi birdman, My story is almost exactly identical to yours. I carved "about" 45 years and now find myself bored with it. Started scrolling 4 or 5 years ago. Certainly found it to be a refreshing change. On this site, go to "Bragging Rights," page 2 or 3 and click the heading "Some of my stuff." Welcome to the club sir. jerry
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Would a table top work that you could flip over, with one tool mounted upright and the other up-side-down? Or possibly hinge a table top on the wall and swing it up for use? Hope this starts some type of thinking direction to take. GOOD LUCK !! jerry
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Sorry that I have been too darn lazy to post pictures. The ONLY saw I own is quite similar to this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_10394-353-3335-07___?productId=50088184&pl=1&Ntt=scroll+saws Gives you new guys a chance to see what can be done with a cheap saw. jerry
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Hi, Kepy,. Any chance you could point me in the right direction to get the pattern ?? (I don't need the anchor.) Thanks in advance. jerry
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I remember this discussion in the past
jerry1939 replied to heppnerguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
To add to my earlier Comment, I put them on the bottom or the back, never the front where it would show. My Bad !! I should have clarified this with my first Posting. jerry -
I remember this discussion in the past
jerry1939 replied to heppnerguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Because of Religious reasons (I'm a Devout Cheapskate), I print my own on plain paper. Exact shape as yours, but thin one outline, surrounded by a thicker outline. Go to Word (drawing) - Shapes - Auto Shapes. "From the Workshop of Jerry Herold." Each line is a different font with the top line smaller. A thin layer of wood glue to attach. jerry -
I only use FD UR # 5 (On VERY rare occasions I need a # 3.) Always remember that as you face the blade, the sharp teeth are on your RIGHT. When cutting all shapes (Use a circle as an example, cutting away the waste and leaving the circle, saw to the circle and turn RIGHT and rotate the wood in a CCW direction. Keep repeating until you have finished the entire cut. Next, go back and finish each cut, turning the wood in a CW direction. This way when finishing up, you have the sharp (aggressive) teeth to start your finishing cuts. Use this method for any and all shapes. Note: If you are finishing the outside of a circle, start by riding the back of the blade against the first cut. Slowly rotate the wood until the teeth are where you want them, and proceed to cut. This prevents you from making a gouge in the outside of the circle. I realize that this is as clear as mud, but after you tried it a few times, it will become automatic to you. jerry
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I'm a blue tape guy also. I order 1/8 & 1/4" BB ply from here: http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/plywoods.htmand don't have a problem. Also, I order "Good Both Sides" for fretwork. That way, if there is a blemish on one side, you can flip it over. I tape both sides for the strength. IF you do that, as soon as you put on the first row of tape, mark the top, because once it's covered you could put the pattern on the "wrong" side. For the number of hours spent on a piece, I feel it's inexpensive to buy "good both sides." jerry
