Jim Finn
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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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I like that! I make lots of boxes and have made a few with irrigular shapes, like yours, (Flowers, butterflies, Texas) but I never thought of the shape of a leaf. I just may try that. Thanks for posting this.
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I resize my patterns using "Paint" that comes with many computers.
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I suggest you find out what is doing this. My DeWalt was making that kind of noise just before it literaly fell apart in 2008. It was 20 months old, out of warranty so I bought a Hegner and never looked back.
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What is your wood of choice for scrolling?
Jim Finn replied to Dave Monk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I mostly cut cedar and maple with my scroll saws doing inlay work. I have found that to avoid splintering of mahogany (while carving) apply a coat or two of shellac or lacquer and this finish hardens the surface a bit. Give it a try. -
My most used equipment in my shop is my stationary belt/disc sander. I spend more time using it than any other tool. I have two of them that I got from Harbor freight for under $200 each. They are 6"x 48" belt sanders with a nine inch disc. I do not use the disc at all. In fact I did not even install it. These sanders are belt drivin by an induction motor with more than enough power. The belt tracks well. I have them set up in the vertical position and stand at them while using them. I made a dust collection "hood" to fit them. This "hood" was tricky to build but I did get it made so that changing out the belt is pretty easy. My dust collector works well with this tool. I am not a big fan of Harbor Freight equipment, but these tools work well for me.
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SCROLL SAW----FEEDING FROM TOP OR BOTTOM?
Jim Finn replied to danny's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I bottom feed but not nearly as much as those that do fretwork. I have tried top feeding but I did not like having to bend over to see under the saw table to attach the blade on the bottom. -
My Hegner came with a small grease gun. I grease it about twice a year. My 1988 Jet saw has no way to grease it.
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Cute car
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Excellent inlay!
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I do a lot of inlaying and many of my projects I repeat so I do make 1/'8" Masonite patterns for those. For images with interior lines, I apply from paper patterns, with carbon paper.
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I have a drill press but 1/16" blades break too easily using it. I now use a Black and Decker three speed rotary tool (at slowest speed)mounted in a Dremel type drill press accessory. I have mine tilted to about 6.6° to make starting holes for my double bevel inlaying. Works great!
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Welcome from a fellow veteran from Texas (Lubbock)
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Here is a cute plaque I made with inlay. Lots of folks laugh at it but no one buys it.
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Welcome from Texas: Most people with scroll saws seem to do a lot of fretwork. I do not. There are many other things to be done with a scroll saw. To list some: Intarsia, segmentation, toy making, bowl making , basket making, lettering, compound cutting and double bevel inlay.
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I surely agree with this. I have a $2500 Hegner that I have set up to do inlay work and a $15 (Used) Jet made in 1988 I use to do all my other scroll saw work. Both work great for me.
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One thing, that is not often mentioned at scroll saw forums, is that there are many different uses for a scroll saw other than doing fretwork. I have played with making toys, compound cutting, bowl making, basket making, intarsia, segmentation, lettering and inlay. If one is doing just fretwork, easy blade changes is important and durability in cutting thicker (3/4"") wood not so much. When doing any of the other listed project types easy blade changes is not as important but durability is. This is why some people have cheaper saws that last for years and years others (like me) ware them out is less than two years. (I do not do fretwork)
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I have been scrolling seriously since 2006. So about ten years. I put 35 hours a week in my workshop and about 1/2 of that is at one scroll saw or another.
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Welcome Zed. I am in Texas but I do speak a little English.
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Belt or Direct Drive - Which do you prefer and why ?
Jim Finn replied to FranMike Harley's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have three saws. Two are direct drive and single speed. One has belt drive and changing speeds is simple. I keep that one on the slowest speed though. All of my saws have long lasting induction motors which are not adaptable to speed control without a pretty expensive alteration. My experiance with universal (brushed) motors on scroll saws was short. One of them had a speed controller that died. Most of my scroll saws are now over thirty years old. -
I have a roll around padded office chair with back and arms. I do not use the arms while sawing but I do when I am resting. I spend hours at my scroll saws so I have the table of the saw at chest height while seated. This keeps my back up straight while sawing and the stand is also high enough to use while standing if I need to, while sawing large pieces.
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This is the kind I use. I do not want to have to keep a foot on the floor switch as I saw. When I come near to the end of the cut I depress the switch and when I release it the saw, light and fan ( for blowing dust away) all stop.
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foot switches are nice. I have one on two scroll saws, two stationary belt sanders, one drill press and one band saw. (Wonder if I could use one for the overhead lights?)
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I like what spirithorse posted. I do a lot of double bevel inlay work and tilt my saw table down on the left. I do not like to use the terms "clockwise and Counterclockwise" because some folks then ask." "do you mean the blade goes clockwise or the movement of the wood?" I just keep the image to the right of my blade and do not get confused that way.
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I have my Hegner polymax on the original stand lowered two inches. I can stand while using it or sit with the table at chest height. I usually sit.
