Jim Finn
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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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I do a lot of inlay with my scroll saw but not for pen blanks. They would be kinda small to do inlay in I think.. Might be fun. Surely a challenge.
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I do not make patterns but if I did and did not what them copied I sure would not post them anywhere. For me, anyone can copy my stuff all they want to and sell it. Just my opinion...
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Slower saw speed and slower feed rate may help.
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What are you trying to finish? Fretwork? intarsia? inlay? compound cuttings? toys? What kind of wood? Plywood? I finish my inlay work with a wipe on poly after extensive sanding and shellac undercoat. When I used lacquer I use just lacquer over lacquer. Sand to 500 grit before and between coats of finish.
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clever idea.
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I tried tilting my saw but decided to lower the saw to where I like it and no longer have it tilted.
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I have mounted an eight dollar hair dryer near my saw to blow the dust away while cutting. Works great. If your saw can adjust enough you can cut the bottom 1/2" off of a dull blade and reinstall in the saw. You will then be cutting with unused teeth and it will cut like a new blade.
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I sit in a, roll around, office chair while cutting at my scroll saws. I cut four inches off of the Hegner stand so that when I am cutting, the table is at chest height. My back is up straight and I have the saw table level. I sometimes sit at my saw for hours and hours and never have a back problem. All the other tools in my shop I stand at, while using.
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I sure like the turtle..... Great job.
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Cut thick material like that at a slow saw speed and very slow feed rate. This works best for me.
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I use #5 polar blades from Flying Dutchmen to cut 3/4" up to 1 3/4" stock.
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I make my own metal hangers and screw them in place with 1/4" screws. If there is enough material thickness I use a keyhole bit in my router and put a horizontal slot in the back to accommodate a screw in the wall.
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Here are more compound cut items. I did the 3" cross and a friend did the sea creatures/ chess pieces.
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Three for three. I remember doing the same thing with RC elect gliders. Then I got someone to teach me and had lots of successful landings after that.
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What blades, what brand, where to buy?
Jim Finn replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use flying dutchman polar #5 to cut 3/4" thick hardwoods. I do not do fretwork. -
I would like your opinion on this idea
Jim Finn replied to heppnerguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I also think this would be a hit. You may want to incorporate an image of their team mascot/logo instead of, or in addition to, the sportsman image, -
I am glad it works for you. I also had mine outsdide. After three dead vacs I gave up on the idea.
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I put my shop vac to use picking up the sawdust from the top side of my scroll saw. Worked like a charm but that killed the shop vac. I bought two others and it killed them both. Shop vacs do not like the extended use I guess. I now have a $12 hair dryer blowing across the saw and it works well to clear the sawdust off of the wood .
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How about compound cut flowers.
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Good deal! IT is much easier to make most anything than it is to sell it.
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Walking sticks.
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I now see, after seeing the pattern, that the box has a fretwork top. I do not do fretwork, I do inlay, so my advice does not apply here. I should know better, most people with scroll saws do a lot of fretwork and they assume everyone does and do not mention it in their posts. My mistake. I have no idea what thickness is best for fretwork.
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It has me thinking.............
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I made a movable podium in the way you suggested in the original post. Just mount large wheels on the far side of the stand (not the bottom) just touching the floor. When you tip the saw in that direction it will rest on the wheels and can be then moved. It will sit on the original legs as you tip it back to horizontal. No moving parts (except for the wheels themselves)
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How much is a 1989 Hegner Polymax worth?
Jim Finn replied to Jonathan Shockley's topic in General Scroll Sawing
In my experience, cutting thick wood, even pine, on a DeWalt will kill it over time. It is great for fretwork with thinner stock though. You can fit 1 3/4" stock with a Polymax. Cutting thick aluminum will depend on getting the right blade for it and a very slow feed rate. If you call Mike's workshop he will advise you on which blade is best for aluminum. Congratulations on your purchase. I have my Polymax on a Polymax stand and have it bolted to the floor to dampen any vibration.
