Jim Finn
-
Posts
1,487 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by Jim Finn
-
Pretty good idea. Does it get rid of all the overspray?
-
I glue printed pattern to 1/8" Masonite, then stack cut with it on top. I use this top Masonite piece as a pattern that I just use with a pencil to put the image on future projects. I use this for simple inlay patterns and letter cutting. I do not do fretwork. For inlay patterns that have interior lines I put the pattern on the wood using a printed pattern and carbon paper.
-
The Hegners I have are listed in my signature. Blade changes are not as easy as they are on a DeWalt. Not a big deal to me, doing inlay, because you only make one blade change for the whole inlay unlike fretwork, that may require hundreds of, one end of the blade being removed and reconnected, per project.
-
Hegner will out last a DeWalt by decades.
-
Too bad some kids these days do not get discipline at home. One day they will find out all about it from a cop/judge!
-
A quick spray with a clear gloss finish could still make it as glossy as you like.
-
To achieve this longer blade life I cut 3/4" off the bottom of my worn blades and reinstall and use them this way. I use standard Polar blades so loosing the teeth at the bottom does not effect my cut. My saws will work with these shorter blades. Not sure all saws will though.
-
I have used a sanding mop in the past. I found that it does a good job in smoothing out sanding scratches but for me is not good for shaping the wood so I no longer use mine.
-
I have other sanding tools but the one that I like to use the most, for Intarsia, is a pneumatic drum sander in my drill press. It is an air filled drum so I can make it as soft and flexible as I like and I run it at a slow speed in my drill press.
-
My last sale was very good and I have another next Saturday and expect even better sales there. In my experience I have to keep 90% of my items offered for sale at a price under $25. There are some things I make that I will not make to sell at that price so I just make one or two of them and rely on the cheaper items to fund my hobby. I have folks stand in front of my booth and say to their spouse,"Find one you like". (Un-said is " at these prices it is a good deal")
-
There are rules regarding toys that require testing of each type of toy to show that they were finished properly. This is why I stopped making them.
-
Nice job... How big is it?...Yes, size matters....LOL
-
I have seen a spray paint that says it is safe for use on toys. Non toxic. It was at a Walmart paint department here in Texas.
-
I use these blades and it is slow going. When I first bought a scroll saw to cut 1 1/2" thick fir for toys I found it a LOT slower than the band saw I had been using to cut them. The scroll saw left a perfectly smooth cut, unlike the band saw. I no longer had to sand the cut edge and for this reason ,in the end ,the scroll saw was quicker and easier to use.
-
Mike recommended those same blades to me and he is right. I use Polar #5 for doing compound cutting. #7 also work fine.
-
I make and sell cedar boxes with maple images inlayed into the hinged lids. I mass produce them so I can sell them for $20 each. Toys sell well as do lettered signs with sports team names that I stack cut,so I can sell them for $5 each. The item that I can produce the easiest and make the most money on are rubber band shooters. I can make four per hour...just wish I could sell them that fast. I sell some intartsia and I make two at a time to try to keep the cost down.
-
I have a dust collection system with 6" ducts to each machine. I also have an airborne dust collector mounted on the ceiling. I still have sawdust all over the shop. I am out there 5-6 hours a day seven days a week. I have a friend that plays in there with me that is 88 years old and has COPD. He asked his doctor about this and the doctor told him "You do not get COPD from sawdust" I hope he is right.
-
BEst blade to use for 3/4 select pine
Jim Finn replied to nrscroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I cut a lot of 3/4" soft and hard wood and I use Flying Dutchman Polar #5 or #7. Either work great and leave a very smooth finish. -
Many refer to a common 2x6 as pine when it is actually fir. Sugar pine, if you can find it, is a dream to work with. Southern yellow pine is as hard as oak.
-
thank you Clayton...... on my screen the chat room is located under the second "more" drop down menu.
-
I wish someone in this thread would post when this chat room is and post a link to it or tell me how to get there.
-
Wow! These have been around for 12 years?... Where have I been?
-
Impressive!
-
I get my fonts in Microsoft Word. There are many there. I print out the one I like and draw a double line under it to connect all the letters. There is an option in word to make the lettering all double lines which helps a lot. This sign is one example.
-
You shoud tension the blade so that you here a high "Ping" when you pluck it. Then feed slowly so you are not bending the blade. Oh Yes...wax your saw table top.
