Scrappile

"Wooden Teddy Bear" owns Mike's Workshop. I have nothing against the Pegas blades, for sure they are good blades. The MG ones are just to aggressive for me when I cut detailed fretwork. I am old and slow and I us the FD Penguin Silver blades for that. Me and them just poke along...one hole at a time. I would not be good for production work. I have plans on doing some more 3D cutting, and I will probably go to the Pegas MG blades for that. I am still trying to figure out what they mean by "Modified Geometry". What did they modify?? I notice some of their blades seem to have a sort of downward hook to them,, is that it?

Gary, you did a fine job. Those were not problems you said you had, they were challenges and learning experiences...

I'm curious, Pegas blades have not been around long. What did you guys do about "drift" before Pegas? I don't even notice it anymore, I so use to it. The same effect is in a band saw, something wood workers took for granted for a long time. Now it is an issue?

I think it is more related to personal preference. There are only two Pegas blades I like, the rest I have tried, were just not my thing for the kind of scrolling I like to do. I keep going back to FD. If I get into other types of scrolling, that may change.

Great cutting!

Cute little devils!

beautiful!!

Nice!

Very nice work!

You have drift to compensate for, just like on a bandsaw (drift may not be the correct term for it). The saw blades are stamped out as I understand it and the points are ever so slightly to the right. So it pulls to the right a little. If you are having it a lot, than check for proper tension, blade alignment or dull blade,,, maybe.

I have run a HEPA filter on my Rigid shop vac for several years. I have to clean it as often as I did the original filter as far as blowing it out, but I don't wash it each time. I kept the original filter and I use it when I do wash the HEPA and have to wait for it to dry. Interesting, mind did not come with a foam sleeve.

from the page this was listed on: "Put your seat at which ever height best suits you with the 5.5" seat height range. Minimum seat height of 20.25" to a maximum height of 25.75". "

CA glue from the back side, hold for a second or two and walla, crack gone...

I will be anxious to see results of your inquiry. Seems like it would work. May have to saturate it with MS to peel it off without breakage, like taking a paper pattern off a piece of wood. Knowing your neat art work, I am really curious what you have going on it that artistic mind of yours.

The only place I could get that locally is a hobby store where the sell model airplanes/trains and such. Online Amazon, of coarse.

Yep, that is looking good. Try out all the suggestions mentioned and find which one works best for you in which situation. I switch around all the time. The urge to follow the line and get the scrap out in one piece is something I always use to struggle with, but I got over it in time.

She goes,,,,, every time I can talk her into it...... Just kidding. I am joking around here, but I am sorry to read about Sharon, brother. We are getting of that age where seems like we are saying more good-byes than hellos... No way to get around it.

Well, really don't want Dick to take care of Patti, that is my wife. I just didn't want her to know how thoughtful Dick is to his wife... I'm afraid Dick is a much better husband than me.

I quickly removed the toilet seat cover, on mine. Didn't want to hear my wife yelling about leaving the toilet seat up!,,, oh never mind, that was something else,,,, but ya, I removed that cover from my lights.

I will NOT let Patti read this!!!!

Remember when you turn the blade cannot turn a quickly as you can turn the board. You have to wait a fraction of a second or maybe it is a second, for the bladed to "catch-up". Go to the line you want to turn at, add slight back pressure so you stop cutting forward, turn the board and hesitate long enough for the blade to catch-up and then proceed forward. Another thing I do if I want real sharp pointed turns, and I am cutting next to a waist area, is scroll to the line to stop, back the blade up and cut around so I can cut in from the other direction, to make a very sharp point or 90°. You can cut where ever you want in the waste area, it is not going to be part of the picture. I do the same on outside points that I want to be real sharp, cut past the turn point loop around in the waste area and come back to the point from another direction. If you can, try to figure out my picture below on how I would get "sharp" corners. #1 I would scroll to the spot where I want to make the sharp turn, back up and cut past that point to the horizontal l line and continue. I would do that on all places that need a sharp clean point in this one cut. After getting back to my starting point, remove the waste piece than go back and finish cutting the sharp point coming from the other direction.... On the outside cut #2 I cut past the point loop around and come back from another direction to cut the clean point. Hope this is some what understandable. I am not good at explaining and graphics. But remember, you object it to make clean sharp points and corners, you do not have to follow the line from start to finish, you can cut any direction you want in the waste area to accomplish you goal....

I do wish they would have the patterns on their site for subscribers.

Not true for me. I put more tension on spirals. I do it by feel and sound of the blade when I "pluck" it.

Beautiful pieces. So glad you are back!

I'm a FD New Spiral 3/0 fan for sure. My other go to spiral for larger areas is the Pegas 2/0. It is a wee bit smaller and a little more flexable than the FD New Spiral 2/0, at least it feels so to me. I have never use any spiral bigger than a 2/0. I rarely cut any thicker than 3/8. Have done it but prefer the 3/8 thickness. Either 3 - 1/8" pieces stacked or 1- 1/4" + 1- 1/8".