WayneMahler

Come with age, oops meant experience. LOL

Great job on all of it. I'm sure they will be treasured.

Marg I just replaced the lower clamp assembly on my EX-21. Ray sells replacement parts for the contact points. It is just the set screw and the point that hits the blade when you tighten the screw. What a world of difference it made. Lesson learned on my part. May want to look into it. The parts are inexpensive. Not sure about the shipping to you though.

Maybe get a hold of Ray at Seyco. I know he offers some used Ex's but not sure of what his inventory is at the moment. www.seyco.com.

This is absolutely beautiful tree. Love the idea behind it, makes it all that much more special. What a great idea and exchange program. Maybe something we should do here at the village

Seems general consensus is a #7 or #9 blade. I agree with the feed speed, slow the feed rate down and let the blade do the work. I think cutting thicker wood requires more patience to get the results. I have had success with a crown tooth blade as well as an UR. I do set my saw speed up a bit though like maybe 3/4 and just let the blade do the work. Ash is a good hard wood but requires a little finesse to get through. Keep us posted on your progress please.

He does indeed have one heck of a site. The patterns I looked at were older, but still very intriguing and something that has piqued my interest. Just wish you could get people to pay what all that work is worth. Picked a few I MAY do if nothing else for myself.

Blades are all made with different configurations. If your trying to eliminate the fuzzies on the back side of the cutting. A blade with alternating teeth may help. I use UR blades and a quick run with the ROS does the job quick and efficiently. Just my thoughts.

Mine is black also. I would write Ray at Seyco. Give him your model number and question. I'm sure he can answer. His email is [email protected]. I just ordered a new lower clamp assembly and it was listed on the parts list there. Wished I could be of more help.

A thickness planer is a nice machine to have. You can hook it up to a shop vac or dust collection system. If you chose a router I would suggest getting or making a small router table to go with it, once again a dust collector or shop vac to help with the material removed.

Dave Happy to hear you got resolve. Wishing you many hours of happy scrolling and contentment !

Kevin I think we all go through this. But as you know, no pics, didn't happen

I think Bill made a good point. Once you learn the habits of the blades you are using you get comfortable with them an understand the adjustments you need to make when scrolling. The largest blade I have is a #7 and it is rare when I use them. The #2/0 are very fine and hard for me to see but still can use them at a much slower pace though. I have cut many of the works from Sheila, Keith and Sue as well as other well known designers. I found that they suggest something and would bet that is what they are comfortable with and used to using. I know I learn new things all the time. Be patient, play around and learn as you go, we all do. Just remember to have fun along your journey.

Thanks for the feed back Len. Something to keep in mind .

Beautiful work, and a greater heart behind it. Glad to hear your wearing a mask, that is some bad stuff your playing with. Can't help but wonder what that patch would look done in intarsia.

Great idea Dan. Looking forward to seeing the entries .

Glad to see you made it back. Sorry you had so many issues though.

First, Welcome to the village. You will find a lot of great folks here to help in your journey of scrolling. Cutting 90* turns in thicker wood, 1/2" 3/4" is basically done the same as thinner pieces. I normally use a #5-UR blade. If you are using a bigger blade you can back out of the corner and cut back into the waste area opening up the space for the blade to turn. When the hole is large enough turn your piece and continue with your cut. My preference is to anchor the wood with one finger and gently turn into the cut using my other hand. Always turn into the waste area. There are some good videos on YouTube that you can watch that may help. The main thing is to be patient especially when learning and don't get frustrated. It is a learning curve we have all gone through, in time you will develop the skills and abilities to do almost any project. Remember to enjoy your time with your saw. One a side note. Try and stay away from the blades at the big box stores. I use Flying Dutchman, others use Olsen and Pegasis blades.All are good blades and all serve a purpose. You will discover what blades you like and work for you. Have fun and enjoy. Hope this helps some.

I just replaced the lower blade clamp on my ex-21. Did the same thing stripped the threads out. Order through Seyco and got it in a few days and back up and running. I did learn that changing the tip and stop screw are very important as they do wear. I also ordered 2 sets of the ends which are really inexpensive, I think $6.20 (?) for a pair plus shipping. I don't use those adapters, my problem was as the tips wore I over tightened to compensate for the slippage of the blades. Lesson learned and not to be forgotten for sure.

Congrats Larry. You can't buy exposure like that at a reasonable price and you get it free . Will definitely check it out .

I have both PayPal and Square. Square is my go to cc processing.The fees are the same for both companies. I like the convenience of Square sending my money to my account normally next business day. I will add that anyone doing shows, this is a must have ( either product ) as many people like to use plastic for it's convenience. I did away with my cc machine due to the high fees and have not looked back since.

I use the dead man switch. Only powers up the sw when pressed. If you find yourself in a bad place life your foot and the saw stops. Really helpful if a blades breaks . Also welcome to the addiction and always remember that there are no dumb questions.

You can google flap sander plans and make one if your just trying it out. If you find you really enjoy it then I would invest in a more production model. Just a thought I had.

Wow. MDF is bad stuff, it creates very small dust particles and is not healthy at all. Yes you need a mask and one of good quality. Here is a link for wood toxicity. Best to know what you are dealng with so you can take the proper preventive measures. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ Hope this helps.

Using sharp drill bits is key to clean holes as mentioned above. Also the rate you try to push the bit through the wood. If the bit isn't real sharp when it gets close to exiting you essentially just push the bit through with little or no cutting action. I have a drill doctor in my shop that has paid for itself many times over. May want to look into something to touch up your bits.