OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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Not sure if you know what my system is. I have pieced it together from a vac on ebay, a cyclone from Amazon and some other odds and ends. I have about $80 in each one so far. I know the one that Seyco sells is pretty pricey and that's why I am doing my own.
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Excellent! My system is much smaller and probably doesn't do as good a job as yours. I just wanted something totally portable.
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My thoughts also.
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Ok, I give.. It never happened. YET!
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I have two Ex's and I built stands for both of them. I like to sit at my saw. I made them with 7" wheels at the back end of the stand and rigged up some pvc handles so that I can move the saws around like a wheelbarrow. I now have incorporated small vacs on both of them with cyclones and cpap hoses for dust collection. I'll post pics one of these days.
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I recall that Tony fixed the last one but I thought it was the big bushing/bolt the arm pivoted on. This new problem is something else, right? Pics might help.
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Brenda, I'm trying to recall, isn't your saw the same as a Hegner? It seems that I remember you having a problem with the bolt/bushing wearing out on your other saw. Am I right or did I dream it?
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As Les stated, just about all scroll saws have some front to back motion. I think that is what they refer to as "aggression". It can be adjusted out of some saws quite easily and on others it requires some elongating of screw holes to move the lower blade mechanism one way or another. On the later model Hawks, there is an adjustment for that also. I'm not sure about the H/F saw. Anyway, if you can't adjust it out of the saw, you will just have to get used to it and let it be. The only saw that I think had a perfectly up/down stroke is the Eclipse but it is no longer made. The Excalibur/Excelsior/Pegas saws are the easiest to adjust.
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That was going to be my suggestion too. I buy mine from Cherokee Wood Products mostly because of the fact that they cater to scrollers, Chris who runs the online is top-notch and it's less than an hour from me. I try to get a list of what I'm going to be needing and then email my order to Chris. Once he has it cut/milled to what I need, he emails me and I go pick it up. Their pricing is great too. Shipping cost is the killer though.
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Very nice work Brenda!
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Sounds like you were in the right place at the right time. Congrats on a great deal.
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Al, I guess I misspoke when I referred to the jobsite saws as contractors saws. I know the difference and what you have is what I would be looking for. But, it seems that they are holding their value. The cheapest one I've seen on C/L was $550 and it looked like it had a lot of "contracting" on it. I'll be patient and something will come along. It's not like I have to have it yesterday.
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Thanks Les. I see and understand what you are saying now. Yesterday I found a great video on Youtube that went into detail on how to make the fine tune adjustments on my saw using a dial indicator. Another tool that I don't have anymore. But, I'm going to pick one up at H/F and do some really fine adjustments on my saw. I think it might just make the difference. I thought I was doing it correctly when I did it the last time but now I see where I might have gone wrong. My saw may just be OK after all.
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Les, I have read and re-read your how-to guide but I am still not understanding what you mean by "sliding table" and locking the fence against the blade and leaving it there. Can you fill in the blanks? I see an extension table in the upper right corner of the first pic. I see the fence and your sled. But, if you put the fence against the blade, how can you use it or cut anything with the fence against the blade? Your saw is not that much different than mine but I don't have the extension table as you do. My fence locks both fore and aft. It is pretty accurate so it's not a problem. My problem seems to come from the actual motor/blade mechanism. It might just be worn out. It was used when I got it.
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The problem I'm having, well two problems, the blade will not stay vertical. I have tightened everything up that I can find to tighten. Also, when raising or lowering in fine increments, on the up, no problem. But on the down, it has slop in the spiral screw that raises and lower it. I have tried to keep that acme thread clean and lubed with paraffin wax but it still "hops" when trying to lower it a tad. I'm referring to when I'm doing a dado or rabbit cut and have to adjust in fine amounts. I can bump it up but I can't bump it down without it "dropping" more than I want. So I have to raise it back up to what I'm wanting. It's just a frustration that I'm trying to avoid. I do have a sled for the table saw but it might be time for a new one. I actually like the saw and it's mobile base. But I get fed up with not being able to attain the degree of accuracy that I used to get. Oh well, as you said, good enough for this old codger.
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We have no place here. All the outdoor ranges closed years ago and houses were built on the ground. Sad! That Dillon would have been my choice if I had not run across the Star. Best progressive reloader ever made. All the armed services used them for their teams. There is even a forum for owners/collectors.
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I know. My first table saw was a Craftsman 12" commercial and it was motorized. I tuned it to the best of its and my ability but it would not stay in tune. So, once I got enough cans and bottles saved, I bought a Delta Unisaw. Now, that's a saw. I used the Unifence that came with it and once it was all adjusted, it did a fantastic job. I bought Forrest saw blades and dado set. But, once we decided to sell out and hit the road, all of my stuff had to go. The one piece of equipment that I truly wish I would have hung onto was my Star progressive bullet press. I had all the bells and whistles for it to auto feed and I could crank out a 1000 rounds in a day. I cast all of my own lead too. Another hobby that has gone by the wayside. I used to go through 500 rounds of .45 acp in a weekend. I won the California State Championship one time. I miss it.
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I've explained the difference. I hope you are just being your jockular self.
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You said the "magic" word. Belt. I don't want a saw that doesn't use a belt. All the motorized saws have slop in them. The motors wear out and that lets the blade run out. When I asked about a saw, I also mentioned that a good contractor's saw would be fine as long as it's not motorized. There are "job site" saws and "contractor's" saws. What I have now is a "job site" saw and the blades attach directly to the motor shaft.
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Les, you mentioned a sliding table. What/where is it? Also, is that a Kobalt saw?
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Thanks Dave. It is definitely out of my range. But, ya just never know what's going to show up on C/L.
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What should I use to neutrilize the naval jelly? I've never used it before but for the vertical post I think it would be the best product.
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I'm surprised that old Mopar is not "flattened". I would say you weighted it sufficiently.
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The saw that I want will not be motorized. Those are the ones that the blade attaches directly to the motor. I want a belt driven saw, tilting arbor. I will find what I'm looking for more than likely used. The new ones are out of my price range. If I thought I'd live another 20 productive years, I would buy a cabinet saw. But at my age, the next guy would get more out of it than I would. I did find a nice Ridgid saw on C/L but the seller hasn't answered my email.
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Try doing an "image" search on Google. I will give it a try. Here's the image from Facebook entry. I tried to do a search but so far, no go. Ok, here's the pattern. Graciously given by the maker on Facebook. He found it on Pinterest but said it's very hard to locate so he just gave it to me.
