OCtoolguy

Have I missed where you posted the price? If the price is right, and it works ok when tested, having been lifted by the upper arm may not be a problem. It's just not advisable to do that. Give it a test run. If you can get it for under $250 or so, go for it. Everything is still available for the saws but more than likely you won't have to buy anything. If you are at all mechanically gifted, you will be able to tear it down and put it together very easily. These saws are basically indestructible. About the only thing that might cost more than it's worth to replace would be the motor.

There was probably a study done that found pregnant unicorns got cancer for the paint on the Grizzly's.

The project I'm working on now requires 8 panels of compound cutting in red cedar. The short side is 3/4" and the tall side is 1 1/2". I have been experimenting with all the different blades I have. That included Olson, FD, PS Woods, and Pegus. I've tried everything from 3 to 9 in regular and reverse. After much cussing and a lot of mess, I have decided that the Pegus is by far the best. I'm using #5 MGT and they seem to stay sharp the longest and clear the sawdust out of the kerf the best. I'm going to place an order for all sizes of Pegus from 2/0 to 7, a gross of each. I'm tired of trying to figure out which blade to use. Just trying to keep them all sorted out and remembering what I have is too much for me.

I looked at all the different brands and prices. They all look very similar but the difference seems to be in the CFM. The Wen is much less that most others but for a shop the size of mine, I don't think it will matter. I'm going out now to collect cans and bottles so I can save up for it. Soon I hope.,

I'm lucky. The place I ordered from (Qtena) is only about an hour from where I live. I had them the next day.

Les, if you can live with doing all the tensioning at the back of the saw, it might be ok. I paid $300 for a 1996 with same equipment but mine had been updated with the new upper arm that has the front tension lever, it had the aluminum knob for tightening the blade upper blade clamp and a bunch of blade holders. It was missing the factory wrench though. That was a $25 cost. Make sure if you test it to look closely at the "soft start" feature. Mine had the soft start but it seemed to search for the desired speed for a second or two. That's why I sold it. I didn't like that. As far as I'm concerned, you have saws now that are as good as or better than the Hegner. I may have had a bad experience but now, I'm just going to lay back and wait for the right deal to come along on a Hawk like yours. Then, I think I will have all the saws I will ever need.

Yeah, I was always going to make one out of a furnace blower that I had. It was a 3 spd. and all but I never got around to doing it and eventually, we sold everything to go on the road. Big plans back then.

I did make a jig but I guess I didn't think about it holding everything together. I'll give that a try. Thanks again Dan.

Thanks Pete. I appreciate your input.

After reading another thread regarding air cleaning, I got to thinking about adding an air filter to my shop. I found this one on Amazon. Can anybody give me a thumbs up or down on it? https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539110839&sr=8-3&keywords=workshop+air+filter&dpID=51yk6KdhUkL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

In my small shop, the wall studs are on 20" centers. There are a lot of them for such a small area. I put a double outlet box on every stud at 42" from the floor. I have outlets behind stuff that won't get used at all unless I move what's in front of them. But, they are there if and when I need them. Over my workbench, I have even plugged in six way outlets in order to have enough for all the stuff that I have plugged in. I have a computer monitor and the actual box, that's two right there. I have my Fein plugged in, a small air compressor plugged in, a soldering station, drill press, Dewalt saw, light/magnifier, fan, radio and a 6 outlet strip that powers my two battery charging bases for my drills. I could go on and on. The point I am making, you can't have enough outlets. I put them all on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. My lights are all on a dedicated 15 amp circuit. I also put 2 double boxes outdoors for when I am working on my driveway. If I had a shop the size of yours, I can't imagine how many boxes I'd have. A huge amount though.

Well, not knowing what Delta saw you have and knowing that the Delta copy of the Dewalt is newer than 20 years, I'd have to say that there is a ton of difference. The Dewalt saw uses the same type mechanism as the Excalibur, Seyco and now the Jet. Lots of moving parts and pieces but if properly maintained, very smooth running. I have a Dewalt and an Excalibur. I love both of them. I tried a Hegner but didn't like the way it ran so I sold it. Like I said above, if you can buy the Dewalt in good condition and a good price, I'd recommend buying it. I think you will love it. Kevin here on SSV is an avid user of them and he buys and stockpiles used ones just to cannibalize them for parts. Not saying they go bad but just to have a ready source of pieces in case his primary saw goes down. Buying a used one just for the motor is not a bad idea if you can pick it up cheap. I just responded to an ad on Craigslist for a Dewalt for $100. The odd thing is though, the table is missing. How do you lose a table? I offered him $25 for it but he said no. It's been listed now for going on 3 weeks. I'll wait another week and try him again. Depending on where you are located, there are a lot of good used saws on Craigslist in my area (So Cal) all the time. So far, I've bought 3 and sold one.

Thanks Dan. I have been using some of the blades that I got with the saw. They are PS Woods and not reverse. I used a #5 on the thin wood and on the compound cuts I've been using a #7 and even a #9. They cut quite well but once I get through the first cut on the tall side, I have to tape the piece in place to do the other cut. That is when the residue shows up around the blade hole. It's not a big problem but I thought I'd ask others if they have the same experience. I can't use blue tape because I wouldn't be able to see the pattern. Thanks for your input on the blades though. I guess I'm going to have to order more blades. I don't have the FD Polar blades in that size range. I bought all the small sizes.

Kevin, your shop will NEVER be set up the way you want it. I have been through that in my tiny little area a dozen times. I keep coming up with different ideas and added equipment. If I had your space, I'd have an open account with one of the tool sellers for sure.

Also check to make sure your blades are center in the clamps in a way that the blade is perpendicular to the table. Everything has to be square and aligned so that the blade is cutting at the same point both top and bottom. It looks like either the top or the bottom of the blade is ahead of the other.

Good thoughts Kevin. I'm cutting3/4 x 1 1/2 cedar. I'm trying to run the saw at a moderate speed. Not fast. I am very aware that cutting the tall side is going to generate more heat so I am using a #7 PS Woods blade to help clear out the kerf. I'm going to try an Olsen double reverse #7 tomorrow to cut the half in walnut. I'm almost done with the cutting on this critter. Then it's just the sanding and finishing before finally assembling it. I'll post a pic or two when it's presentable. Thanks to all for your suggestions.

If you can get a Dewalt 788 in decent condition, they are a very good saw for the money. I bought a very old type 1 used and it is still in use in my shop. They do have their inherent problems but nothing that can't be fixed with basic service in most cases. As long as the previous owner didn't pick it up by the upper arm and spring it out of it's normal place. That's the most common thing that I can think of. Put a blade in it, tension the blade and run it up and down the rpm range. If it doesn't "rattle" and shake itself to pieces, chances are that it'll be ok. But, don't pay too much for it. You should be able to pick up a decent one with stand and light for under $300. I paid $250. I see them all the time on Craigslist. Good luck. I just did a google search for that number and it is associated to the 10-788 utility knife. Not a saw. Where did you see that number?

Thanks Fred, that makes sense. I am using shipping labels and they work great. It's only after I apply the box tape that I seem to have trouble. I will try the blue tape and see what happens.

Thanks JT. I don't think that is the problem though. The residue is all around the hole and the edges are already smooth. I'm going to try another style of blade and see if that helps. Not sure what is the problem but it's messy. The wax keeps it from being really stuck though so I know that helps. It's just something that has popped up and I thought I'd ask.

This is something that I know must have an easy fix but I thought I'd toss it out there anyway. On my Ex 21 saw, the table top is like new. I have waxed it a couple of times with Johnson paste wax. I am in the process of cutting some compound cuts that require taping pieces together. What I find is residue gathers around the hole in the table from the tape, or from the shipping labels that I am using. I think it's coming off the tape though because it doesn't show up until I start cutting the parts after taping. My question is, what am I doing wrong? Is there a reason that this is happening? I am using 3m tape so I know it's good quality. How do you folks address this problem. Or are you having this problem? I'm curious.

You sound exactly like the perfect neighbor for a guy like me. I wish I lived in a more rural area but my wife won't hear of it now that we are advanced ages. I will just have to be happy with where I am. The weather is great. That's about all though. Oh, and we have great neighbors here too. I have decided to either part out the saw or resell it. I have been made aware of the fact that "life is short" and "we don't have time to restore everything that you drag home". I guess maybe she is right. I really didn't need another project. If I can get my $30 dollars back and the cost of shipping, I'll be happy. I'll cart off what doesn't sell to a scrap yard. If you decide you want any of it, let me know. Thanks for the offer to send what you have.

GRRRRRR!! You've got waaaaay tooo much room.

Kevin, I'm too old and worn out to do all that heavy stuff anymore. And, in December we'll celebrate 49 years of wedded bliss. The one thing that I have figured out though, when our last child left the nest in 1988 I became her "fifth" child. And I get treated that way most of the time. Not saying that's a bad thing, just irritating. Love her to death and wouldn't trade for anybody else. We just have different ways of seeing things. Like old saws.

Obviously you don't know my wife. She doesn't understand the beauty of Junk like I do. I see something that used to be beautiful and it just needs some TLC. But, she sees something that should be in the scrap yard.

A job well done. And well rewarded.