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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. OCtoolguy
    You will love that saw. I recently bought a used one that was built in 2011. So smooth, I can't believe it.
  2. OCtoolguy
    Me too.
  3. OCtoolguy
    I built a gate for our home many years ago. I wanted something that would set it apart from other gates so I created a "window" at the top center and put a very large "S" in it. I did it in Times serif I think. I cut it out on my bandsaw. No breakage problems at all. I'm curious what it is that makes it difficult on a scroll saw.
  4. OCtoolguy
    All very interesting info. I think I have all the above-mentioned blades. Since I am practice cutting I will give each of them a try. I'll report back once I have the info in hand. Thanks to all of you. You have a ton more experience than I do so it will all come in handy.
  5. OCtoolguy
    Thanks Steve. I think I have both. Not a bunch but a few.
  6. OCtoolguy
    You mentioned the PS Woods blades. When I bought my EX the fellow who had it before me had a ton of Olsen and PS blades. I'm not sure whether they are the "super sharps" but I probably got a $100 dollars worth of them with the saw. The Olsens, I got a ton of them too. I'll give the PS blades a try. Thanks.
  7. OCtoolguy
    I'm going to be cutting some compound cuts on the attached patterns. I will be needing 8 of this piece. The wood is 1 x 2 approx. red cedar. I have been doing some practice cuts in junk pine/fir and have gotten some blade drift on the wide side. That would be the pattern on the left. It would be cutting down through the 2" part of the wood. I was thinking about FD-UR in a #5. Can anybody give me their advice on whether I'm on the right track? Thanks in advance for any help.
  8. OCtoolguy
    Just remember, doctors and lawyers all just "practice".
  9. OCtoolguy
    They've been undersizing wood for years. Take a caliper to the home center sometime and check all the plywoods. They never measure out to what they are supposed to be. We have been getting screwed on most everything for a long time. I just realized that you were referring to the overall dimensions and not the thickness. My bad. It is strange though that they would cut it smaller than advertised. It must come down to the loss of wood because of the kerf of the saw blade. Hmmmmmm.
  10. OCtoolguy
    Sheet metal screws work very well if you take the time to grind them down a bit. They are very hard and come in many lengths so one of them, a c-clamp and a nut of the right depth on the other side work great. I've had to do it a few times when the punch wouldn't fit or like you had to move a pin sideways.
  11. OCtoolguy
    Brenda, some table inserts fit pretty tight so they don't move when using the saw. If you can get at it from under the table, give it a small whack with a little hammer. It should just pop out. After looking at the manual that was referred to, I see that you saw is very similar to a Hegner.
  12. OCtoolguy
    Just for the sake of information, they do make a "roll pin punch" set. I used to sell quite a few of them. The roll pin punch has a protusion on the end the centers in the hole of the roll pin and there is a shoulder around the outside of the protusion to contact the wall of the pin. I like the way that John T. did it though by using a "press" of sorts to push the pin out with some control over the force exerted. A C-clamp and a screw of the right diameter would do the trick.
  13. OCtoolguy
    With the knowledge that a new one is on the way, I'd be tearing into the old one to see what makes it tick. You might just be able to see. I'll still bet that it's gotten either dusty or corroded or both. But, that's just me. When I was 4 years old, there wasn't a wall outlet cover in the house that had both screws in it. I took everything apart that was within my reach.
  14. OCtoolguy
    Prayers for all those in the path. We were in Charleston a couple of years back in our motorhome. We were marooned for a week because of the flooding. 24" of rain in 36 hours. Never quit. It sounded like there were a hundred snare drummers on our roof. We love the rain but not like that.
  15. OCtoolguy
    I'm not sure of this but maybe a good cleaning of the controller with some electronic cleaner spray. If that is possible. I haven't gotten deep enough into my EX to know if that would be possible. I do recommend a call to Ray at Seyco though.
  16. OCtoolguy
    Kevin, if you look at the pics I posted, I put the saw near to me so as to put more of the weight on the rear legs. It sits resting on the two wheels away from me and there is zero vibration. I am very happy with the way it turned out. The key is to get it level or even on all four contact points. The H/F wheels that I used have rubber tires on them and seem to be pretty decent wheels.
  17. OCtoolguy
    Kevin, if there are good saws there for that kind of money, why not pick them up and resell them. Nothing wrong with making a buck. Might offset the cost of the wood. Or whatever else suits your fancy. I'd be all over that if it were me. And I'm on S.S.
  18. OCtoolguy
    Ah Paul, you have struck on the subject of handles. That's been the thing that I haven't come up with yet. Your idea will go into the growing list of ideas on how to go about it. I want something that will not be obtrusive and stick out or get in the way. I like your idea. I wonder if I could incorporate some thick walled pvc in two different diameters. Hmmmmm!
  19. OCtoolguy
    Well, your photo is so good that it looks like it's done with marquetry. I like it.
  20. OCtoolguy
    I built one because I have a small shop and it stands about 6 inches higher than my driveway. I wanted to be able to take my saw outdoors so that meant wheels. I designed and built a 2 x 4 frame and used some 8 inch wheels from Harbor Freight under the two front legs. I can lift the rear using the table of the saw and then move it in and out of my shop. I also used a baltic birch top and hinged it at the edge nearest to me so that I could elevate the saw and tilt is toward me. It works great.
  21. OCtoolguy
    Very nice. I take it that's all inlaid?
  22. OCtoolguy
    I used to have a fantastic up close vision. Then I had cataract surgery and that went to Hell. Now, I have to rely on my reading glasses to see anything.
  23. OCtoolguy
    Has anybody come up with a foolproof way of marking the top end of the blades when you first buy them. I was thinking that while they are still bundled to paint the tips with nail polish or something like that. The tiny blades are very hard to see and I can't always depend on the method of running my finger up and down the teeth. I was thinking maybe of using "Dykem" marking fluid.
  24. OCtoolguy
    Thanks Scott, I will try to find it at Ace. I stopped shopping at Lowes after the way they treated all the folks who worked at Orchard Hardware. Terrible what they did.
  25. OCtoolguy
    Thanks for the info Kevin. I bought a package of 100 on Amazon for about $11. It will take me a while to burn through them because I try to put as many patterns as possible on each one. It takes some messing around but I get it done.
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