NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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Great job. I need to get a copy of that pattern to add to my growing pattern bucket. I have been scrolling for 15+ tears now and learned a long time ago NEVER cut one of anything. Even if it is not something you can stack cut. With friends, family and craft shows everyone will find a home in due time.
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Len, a month or so a go Sue posted on Facebook if anyone wanted to test cut a pattern. It was a fret pattern and many replied yes. I am not sure how she picked me. All I have test cut for her have been compounds. And yes I have the option to decline (and I have) if I don't like the pattern or don't have the time. I know she has others doing test cutting but not sure who, where or how many.
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I cut the house with a Olson #7 PGT double tooth blade. A #9 might have been better but I did not have any. I used the same #7 to cut the birds. Sanding was minimal.
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Jim, the base and large bird are actually part of Sue's design. I just added the chick.
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I recently test cut this for Sue Mey. I modified the original pattern by adding the chick. The chick is actually the same as the larger bird but reduced by 50%. Thanks for looking and comments welcome.
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Here are a couple pictures of a votive holder I recently cut. It is a Sue Mey design. The pattern was in her March 2016 e-zine.. I love compound cutting. The wood is aspen. The stand is 6.5" high and 3.5" across the base.
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I would not use anything thinner then 1/2" and I prefer 3/4". Heat will cause thinner woods to warp badly.
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For the planer and jointer a dust collector of some kind is a must.
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and you are going to the wife you fixed up the old saw why?
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For a painted backer it should work BUT extreme care should be taken cutting it due to the excessive dust it creates.
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Charlie 11.5 teeth per inch is about a #9 which is big for scroll saws. My go to blade is a #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse which has 15 teeth per inch.
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First of all the blades you get at Lowe's and the like are junk. You need to buy good blades like Flying Dutchman or Olson. Breaking blades is normally a sign of to little tension and pushing the wood instead of letting it cut through the wood. Tighten the tense and slow the feed rate.
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I cut a vast variety of projects. This includes portraits. I have cut some large portraits like 17x11. Go for the EX-21.
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I have a little bag of washers in various sizes just for this purpose.
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I am another hot glue fan. I have tried all the other methods mentioned but hot glue works best for me.
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I use mat board or painted 1/8" plywood for my framed portraits. 90% of the time my background is black.
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I can tell you for a fact the nut on the counter weight is reverse thread. The problem with getting a new motor and DIY is the warranty on a new motor is only 45 days. Go for the EX-21.
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I have used the equal parts of BLO/POLY/MS and the TUNG OIL/MS/POLY mixes. I have also used BLO/MS 50/50. I do not see a lot of difference in the first two except the price. If doing the Tung Oil mix you are suppose to use pure Tung Oil which is pricey. The Tung Oil you buy at Lowes, Home Depot, ACE, etc is a mixture of Tung Oil, MS, Poly and other "stuff". You can get pure Tung OIl at Woodcraft, Klingspor, and other such places. BLO/MS works fine for projects that do not get handled a lot. It does not create a hard protective finish. You need varnish or poly for that.
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Great write up. For attachment of pictures to wood I use 3M Super 77 and I apply a light coat of spray to both the back of the picture and the wood. You can cut after 15 minutes.
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As Charley said I recently replaced my Dewalt factory light with a pair of LEDs. Charley made me the bracket and I got the lights at my local Lowes. While it gives the saw a SC-FI look it is amazing how well it lights the table and the work piece. Also using a light from each side removes all the shadows which in it's self makes a whole lot of difference. I typically use clear packing tape over the top of my patterns and glare is not a issue. I am hoping some day in the future Charley can design and build a bracket to fit my EX-21 because I would add the LEDs in a heart beat. I know he is working on it when circumstances allow.
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Yes and No. It really depends on the look I want and the piece. If a want a glossier look I will either spray it or apply additional light coats of the mixture using a foam brush. I estimate I just go with a single dip 75% of the time. For dipping I go to the dollar store and get large disposable baking pans. Of course I wipe them out with straight mineral spirits afterwards and reuse the pans over and over,
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I got mine in January and I am really loving it. Congrats on your new love.
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I make my own wipe on poly by mixing it 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have used it for fret work. I do this by dipping it and then blotting off the excess.
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Who's Scroll saw blades are these
NC Scroller replied to amazingkevin's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Ike it really depends on which style Olson blades. I just got some Olson PGT blades and they where in the past and are still with the pointed ends. -
Woods changing colors with aging
NC Scroller replied to Rubsterwine's topic in General Scroll Sawing
From my own experience I can tell you the following will change color over time. How much and how fast is a factor of how much UV light it is exposed to. Poplar, Cedar, Cherry, Holly, Red Oak, Box Elder I do not have enough experience with the others to judge.
