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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. NC Scroller
    Not sure what you mean by throat plate. There is a slot from the front of the table to the blade hole slot that is used for ease of blade changes but there is no removable insert like on a band saw or table saw. Do you have a picture?
  2. NC Scroller
    I have made numerous Alex Fox patterns. I use mostly Weldbond glue. Any wood glue will work. I prefer to use the ones that dry clear. The secret to squeeze out is to apply a thin and even layer of glue. I roll my glue on. It takes less glue than many realize. Will you be able to dip it in Danish Oil immediately, NO. I would wait overnight to dip.
  3. NC Scroller
    I am not sure where you saw scroll saws are designed for a max of 1/4" but I cut wood often up to 1 1/2" (38mm) thick on my scroll saw. 3/4" is really a standard for many projects. Even those of us who stack cut will typically stack 3/4" or more. Now thicker woods do require larger blades. Typically I would use a 2/0 or #1 blade on 1/4" or less and a #5 or #7 on 3/4" or more. For a newbie I would recommend poplar. Pine is softer but the pronounced grain in pine can cause blade control issues as the blade will tend to follow the grain.
  4. NC Scroller
    Dick all your carved fret pieces are amazing. I really like the colorized version.
  5. NC Scroller
    Danny a quick web search found Madison Lumber in Huntsville and according to their website they sell Russian birch (same as baltic birch) in 5x5 sheets. While their website says they are wholesale they should be able to give you a name of a retailer or a local business that buys from them. Madison Lumber (madisonlumberinc.com)
  6. NC Scroller
    Huntsville, is a sizeable city. I would check with local cabinet shops. Many cabinet shops use baltic birch. They may be willing to sell you some or give you a name of the local supplier.
  7. NC Scroller
    My local Ace Hardware does carry a selection of bits and other parts for a Dremel.
  8. NC Scroller
    Dick your carved fret work never ceases to amaze me.
  9. NC Scroller
    I use Weldbond glue. It is white and dries clear. It works with painted and stained backers. I apply the glue with a small paint roller I covered with foam pipe insulation. The glue goes on the back of the piece you are attaching the backer to.
  10. NC Scroller
    I have a Brothers laser printer. It has a scanner and is wireless. I agree with Devin. Watch for Black Friday sales.
  11. NC Scroller
    I have made a number of Alex's patterns and I have only used regular 1/8" Baltic Birch. I have looked at that pattern and I if I decided to make it I would use 1/8" Baltic Birch. I would just stain the backer pieces.
  12. NC Scroller
    If you purchased in in 2020 it should still be under warrantee. Call General International. https://www.gipowerproducts.com/contact-us/
  13. NC Scroller
    I agree 110%. I use 4-5 sheets of 1/8" BB during the year. I use it for gift card holders, ornaments, backer boards and even templates. If I only a needed a 24 x 30 piece for a one time project I would not care if I paid a bit more for the convenience. BTW I also do intarsia and other solid wood projects. When I go stock up on plywood I normally go through their off cut pile and bring back hardwoods and exotics.
  14. NC Scroller
    I get all my lumber, plywood and solid wood from specialty lumber store about 2 hours away. I make the trip once a year. I take the wife and we stop of lunch and maybe some other shopping. So I come home with a truck load of wood (baltic birch I normally get 5 or more sheets). The wife is happy. Happy wife. Happy life.
  15. NC Scroller
    I am a big fan of the OEM stands and I have owned or used Excalibur 21, Hawk VS226, Dewalt 788 and Hegners. All on a concrete floors and without wheels.
  16. NC Scroller
    Dick we all have our "go to blades" but many beginners especially think that one size or type blade is good for all things. Scroll saw projects comes in all types and varieties and not all blades work well for everything.
  17. NC Scroller
    I have looked close, magnifier close, and even presanded plywood will get some lift off with tape or shelf liner. Sanding does help a lot but it is not 100%. It really depends on what you find acceptable. I am another one who 90% of the time mounts the pattern directly on the wood and used MS to remove it.
  18. NC Scroller
    Using the correct type and size blades for the wood you use makes a big difference. Blades have a specific purpose and are not one size/type fits all.
  19. NC Scroller
    Compound cutting just about anything.
  20. NC Scroller
    Check out ebay. That is where I got mine. Many used ones available for under $50 and some new ones under $100. For the record you want the #34
  21. NC Scroller
    I have used the 180 and 220. I actually prefer the 180. I pre sand all my wood prior to scrolling. Usually no finer than 220. The only time I use finer paper is for pen turning. Since the wood is pre sanded I use the mop sander to "soften" or "take the roughness" and any fuzzies off the edges.
  22. NC Scroller
    I have a similar setup but I have mine mounted in a mini lathe.
  23. NC Scroller
    I put a Jacob's Chuck in my drill press. I believe it is a #32. It is a key type chuck. It hold everything from 0 to 3/8" so no need for a pin vise or any other adaptor.
  24. NC Scroller
    If pieces like that are breaking while using a mop sander you might be pressing too hard. You really should just we touching the mop with the wood and not pushing. I also support the piece with my fingers or a small piece of scrap wood.
  25. NC Scroller
    Maybe it is the wood and not the process. What kind of wood you are using? Can you provide any pictures of the broken parts?
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