redwine

Great job on your cutting and 10 - 4 on lots of sanding! I have done my share on fret works of the past! Erv

Brilliant use of left overs! That is a very good reason to save the pieces from the intense fret work designs! Erv

Understand the mowing of grass in between the monsoon rains! I only have a half yard this year to mow as the rains came way to late this year, but then that is more time in the shop! Once again, thank yor for your help! Erv

Kevin, sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you but there was a big thunder storm rolled in Thursday afternoon and it did a number on the wi fi and knocked out the land line phone and my lap top! I have just gotten back some of the items but this lap top is still not right! Anyway I sorted out 6 thin washers that fit over the bolts, one at a time till I got the table tilted enough to fix the front to back square, I tried four but that was to much and it went back to the old problem! That idea did work and I thank you so much for your time to help me! Enjoy your day and take care! Erv

Will do! Erv

Thanks for that advise, I will give that a try! I have all sizes of washers! The thought closed my mind that when I built a bench to set it on,I tilted it a good amount, like I had the old P20 tilted, but that wouldn't cause what the problem is! The saw is level all around and does not move so as I said I will give the washers a go! Erv

I have times when what I want to say doesn't come out right! The backing back is when I make a cut up into a "v" or something similar, than turn the project to make the cut down the other side of the "v". That is where the problem with the blade not being not being "square" front to back shows up. When that happened with other saws it was the table not being at a true 90* to the blade. This is what I thought at first but the table is 90* to the side of the blade, no problem. I will keep working on it, can't be that big a problem. Thanks everyone for the advise. Erv

Thanks for the reply's. I don't thank it is a warranty problem as I don't or haven't had that problem with the smaller blades! I do notice that I cannot back the blade into the cut to continue because of the blade not being square front to back. The blades I use are fd ultra reverse all sizes and they are flat on the back. They do not show any signs of being twisted or bent once I loosen them to go to another entry hole or to change blades. Erv

pdI have been at this hobby since 2005 and have owned 7 different saws and have never had a problem with this until I received the newest Wen 22 inch saw. The saw is good for me as I can use just about any saw and not have any issues. What I need to know now is the blade holders on the upper and lower arms adjustable to square the blade 90 degrees front to back? I have found that it is more pronounced with # 7 to #9 blades that I use for cutting the 3d ornaments and not getting square ornaments! I have been using a small 90 degree machinist tool to get the blade set for the front to back 90 degree to the table! The normal side of the blade is dead on 90 degree, no problem there! The blade holders are or look the same as the ones on Dewalt, Delta and numerous other saws, so just wondering if there is an adjustment that I don't know about as there isn't any thing about that is the manual! I noticed this as I have always put the blade in the bottom holder to the back and the same with the top holder. Any help much appreciated! Erv

Ah yes, designer fire wood!! Sure glad to see that I am not the only one that has problems with making frames! Some times I surprise myself and the 4 pieces turn out perfect! Even with using a 45 degree slid, I just cannot get the right measurements on each one! I know it is something that I am not doing right and it is not the rulers or tape measures being off, just what I am not doing right! Hang in there, it will come to you! Erv

You might try sealing Basswood first with shellac than apply the paint! I very seldom use this wood just to soft! Erv

I am with you Hawk, those blade clamps were the best and quickest way to clamp and unclamp blades! I am not sure about this statement but is it possible that Delta held or holds the patent for these clamps? If so would it be possible for another company to purchase or some how pick up the patent or is that even possible? I too own the Delta P20 but needs parts that are no longer available and the one part is being worked on by a machinist and I dread what the price is gong to be if he can make it! Erv

Maybe I shouldn't chime in on this topic, but it just doesn't make since that buying a new saw that has been manufactured for many years using the same drawings of the original saw that was developed in Canada so many years ago, that you have to work on right after it is taken out of the box in order to make it right just isn't right! It does make since in a way, the saw is built over in China, packaged and ship over here to the states and it is possible that in the transport parts can become loose or even tighten so as not to work like it should! In my case after I decided to upgrade to a "high end" saw after buying a Dremel saw that HD was selling at half price to bring in their own line, I went back to HD to price the Dewalt saw knowing what the street price was at the time, HD would not come down from the suggested Manufactures price well over $700! I ended up buying the Delta P 20 at a very good price in the range of $375 or so from Lowes! I still have the saw although the parts needed to get it back into operation are no longer available unless I have a machinist make up the parts which will be very expensive! At least there wasn't any problem with the saw when it was unboxed and set up on the stand that was also included, It was ready to go once I put a blade and started the process of cutting! Granted most of it was from overseas but as I remember not from China! This is just my 2 cents worth and as we all know that is not much! Erv

Concerning parts availability, Auto manufactures, I believe, are required by law, at least over here in the States, are required to have all parts available for 10 years! I may be wrong on that but I believe that is right! That doesn't seem to be the case with tools. As I stated in previous posts, my main saw is the Delta P20, 40 680 and the parts are just not available and haven't been since 2 different compaines have aquired Delta along with 4 other companies! This may be why parts are no longer available or being produced, because of the buy out! Since Dewalt was also one of the companies that was aquired, the Delta scroll saw is now a copy of the Dewalt saw! Maybe that is the scheme of things, quit making parts so you have to buy a new saw! Erv

Thanks for the photo dgman! I see how you have done this one which is much better than one iI tried to do and mount it on a lazy susan which wasn't a good idea! I appreciate your reply and i can see just about the size I will need to use! Thank you!

I used to cut these bird houses much like all of you have, but my problem was how to display them at craft shows? At one time I had a "tree" form with dowels all along the main "tree" but was just to large to be toting from one show to the next! I even just placed them on the table but that wasn't working, they were overlooked! My question is how do you display your houses at shows? Erv

I want to think both Kevin and Ray for their input on this saw. I am still thinking about it and waiting to hear back about the person supposedly doing up the part with the 3D printer! I did have to postpone a couple of orders that I took at the craft show a couple of weeks ago, so I can't wait to long! Again thanks for the input! Erv

Thanks Kevin for the info. With the way my luck has been going since May when some one hacked our credit card for over $2000 and have been fighting with Barclays to get that solved, even had a new card hacked just as soon as it was activated and had not been used by us for any purchase! Then shortly after all of that the P20 broke that part and than the backup saw, Hitache, (sp) gave up the bearing and 3 other parts on the left side, 2 of the parts are available but not the ones I need! The Drimal saw needs the 2 straight blade holders and the spacer to be able to use regular straight blades and not the pinned blades, also no longer available! The person I bought this saw from does not have those items or has lost them! So like I said I am about to give up on any kind of saw that I have read about, seen reviews that are not favorable, not worth the money, made in China etc. etc.!!!! Oh, and on top of all of that, now we have to have a new natural gas line installed from the house to the meter due to a leak some where in the old line, 1958 the year of the house being built! This stage of life is not what it should be! Erv

I have 3 scroll saws and all 3 are down due to parts not available, out of production, you name it! My main saw is a Delta 40- 680 or P-20, was bought back in 2005 new and has given very good service ever since until a couple of months ago when a "collar" as it is called in the parts list broke. Now as far as I know this piece is the only plastic part of all the moving parts under the table. This collar slips over the top arm and connects with the connecting link that is between the 2 arms. There is what I would say is a weak point where the sleeve and the small bolt and nut attach the top of the connecting link to the upper arm. That is where the part broke! E replacement does not have one and neither have several other places I have got in touch with. I have even given that part to a person that has a 3DPrinter and is supposedly trying to make up one using that machine. Haven't heard from him in awhile but his friend said that he is working on it, coming up with some kind of program to do it with! So, with that in mind I have been reading about the Wen model # LL2156 and have seen one run on the internet and just wondering if any of you scrollers out there have one and what do you think of it? I may have to buy another saw!!! Redwine or Erv

My CEO, ah, wife, ok's almost everything I cut and will ask "why did you do that one"! In your case you most likely knew you would be recutting but always best to have their opinion before hand! Erv

I don't post here to often and I really should, but for a beginner you have started on the right track and you can only improve with time! The projects you have posted are well done! I do have a tip for you and all of the scrollers that use spiral blades and try to cut stright lines. Instead of "pushing" the wood into the blade as you would with stright blades, try "pulling" the wood toward you. You will find that you will cut a much better looking stright line doing it this way or at least it does for myself! Erv

You would think that as long as this saw has been manufactured that the company would have devised a way of holding up the top arm to change blades, move the work piece to feed the blade into next hole or what ever needs to be done with out resorting to coming up with home made apparatuses to do the job! Your item is a neat way to do the job but just saying...... Erv

I have used this method or very similar, when I was making plaques for clubs with the names of the members for each plaque. I would cut out each letter and save the waste, some times reducing the size to fit on the plaque. This made it much easier to align the letters. To make it easier to apply the glue to each letter, I would use a glue with a longer set up time and spread out a thin amount and place the letter lightly onto the glue making sure there was even coverage and not enough to oozes out! Erv

This is my version of Steve's golf cart pattern! Hot Wheels interduced their version earlier and I thought I could come up with something of my own! A life like version could be built using fiberglass to mold the engine and instll the electric motor inside the fake engine and go one more step and put in a sound system of a dragster! That might not be a wise thing to do, might get the person banned from the club! All comments welcomed! Erv

If you do one for New Mexico it will be yellow! Erv