redwine
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Everything posted by redwine
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This is a project I started back in March just after this virus situation hit us and all of the craft shows upcoming was cancelled. I didn't thank I would be this long in completing it but I did take my time as there wasn't any rush. There was a lot of items that required the use of a lathe and a band saw, both of which i do not have so a little bit of working around some of those problems took some time! The tires was one of the items requiring a lathe but the scroll saw took care of that, the only thing that I couldn't do was a lighter small ring of wood that simulates the rim was to be cut and inlaid where the "lug" nuts are. It could also be painted while the wheel was still on the lathe. As you see the "rim" is black. There was a few other things that was over come by using the tools I had on hand! All of the wood that is painted either pine, ceder fencing, or poplar. All comments welcome. Erv
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OK, I don,t feel so bad now as I thought I was the only one that strange things of losing things in plain site only happened to me! I spent most of the day Monday trying to find the tool to deepen the opening for a wood screw and I had replaced it right where I could find it! I looked and searched through the tool boxes, all of the drawers, in places where I knew it wouldn't be and finally give up and mickey moused the opening with a small knife. Later I needed a different drill bit, went to the box it was in and quess what, there was the tool right where I put it so I would know where it was! Erv
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I am glad you got the job for this! I would not even try to cut that many bats even stack cutting 4 to 6 at a time! You did a super job on this and it will be a hit at the reception no doubt! Great job! Erv
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All of the above info is correct! Slow the saw speed down and do use a skip tooth blade without the reverse teeth and do not use the FD UR blades for compound cutting! The skip tooth blades will clear the dust and chips out of the cut quicker than a regular blade will and reduce the chance of over or undercutting the piece. The best thing to do is take your time and as with any other cutting, let the blade do its thing and you will see a perfect chess piece come out of the center of the square block! Erv
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You stated that the bottom layer is "tearing out" badly? Is it the actual wood that is tearing out or is it just the "fuzzes" that is always to some extent, present on the bottom layer. I use the FD ultra reverse blades when I stack cut the bb ply and they will produce fusses but not as much as a regular blade. As NC Scroller stated if it is not true BB ply but the utility ply or even their cabinet grade ply, you run the risk of the ply tearing or even breaking out! Erv
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Very nice work! Charles patterns are a challenge to cut but the result is well worth it! You did yourself proud with this one even with the reduced in size pattern! Well done! Erv
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Both Tammi and Frank, you have cut the same basket and with great finishes using stain and natural woods! Very nicely done! I have cut different styles of the basket patterns from Steve and as stated very easy to do! With that said at one craft show I had some of them displayed and one customer was looking at one and ask how I bent the wood in order to put the dowels in! I presided to explain to him that they were cut using a scroll saw and the "dowel" is just part of the basket weave! The person still maintained that I had in some way bent the wood and inserted the dowel! I never did convince him that each weave is cut using a scroll saw! I now leave one of the weaves just a hair off center to show a customer that it is indeed one piece, "dowel" and weave! Erv
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I have run into that problem with the UR #5 and for what ever reason that blade has always been that way when ever I have ordered them in that it will not track straight where as all of the rest of the UR's ,for me anyways, will track straighter than the regular reverse blades. I very seldom have need for that size as I normally use #1's and 3's. Any thick woods, 3/4 inch or thicker, I go to #7 or to the Pegas MG blade. Erv
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Its great to hear from another scroller that has the Delta P-20! I have a draftsman chair that I bought from Staples about 5 years ago simple because of the height of the original stand and did not want to go to the trouble of constructing something else to put the saw on. The chair has more than served its purpose. The problem with it now and has started it about a year ago, is that when it is cold, winter time, I can not set all the way back in the seat as the seat goes down! As soon as the weather warms up the problem goes away! I know it has some thing to do with the seal but don't know of any kind of fix for it. After all of this virus thing settles down I will look around for a new one! Being that I am 6 foot tall I need a draftsman chair to be comfortable at the saw. Erv
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I had often wondered why nearly all of Sue Mey's patterns were so large, usually 16 to 17 inchs especially all of her crosses. Our oldest granddaughter explained it to me that by doing the pattern large it is much easier to reduce in size with out the distortion that happens when you enlarge the small pattern to a larger dimension. It has to do with the pixels as that what makes the picture. Now I am assuming that is why her patterns are mostly large although there is a lot of detail in them. This is jmo so take it as you wish . Erv
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I do the same but I did run across 1 can that would spray nothing but liquid ! The price that you quoted is the very same price I pay at both Walmart and Lowe's here in NM. I have tried other lower priced adhesives but always return to the tried and true! Erv
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Oscar, You made a statement that you attached the thin piece to a 1/2 inch scrap and you didn't have any trouble cutting it and what Ike posted is the best way to cut thin stock. Also you need to use a #1 or at the least a #3 blade and if you are a newbe to this wonderful hobby do slow your saw speed down to half the speed your saw will produce. With time and patience you will be cutting the thin stock with the best of us! As stated stack 2 or 3 pieces of 1/8 inch ply, put on a pattern, drill some holes, feed the blade through and watch the magic occur! Erv
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I do like Les does about the tension, I use a very tight blade with the exception of #2/0 and 3/0, those I back off slightly and adjust the wood feed into the blade. When I am cutting 1/4 inch wood or ply with a #1 blade and it is a 90 degree turn I can make a quick turn and get a sharp corner. This involves coming up to the corner and apply pressure by slightly pulling the wood toward you to the back of the blade and quickly turn the wood. With practice you can make those sharp turns. If the turn is in a "v" cut up to the end of the line back out and turn the wood so the teeth of the blade will be facing the waste part and back into the "v" and cut out the new line. As I stated I use a lot of tension and it works for me. You don't want a "limp" blade, just try more tension till you find the amount you are comfortable with. Erv
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Great to hear the news that you came out of this with out any serious issues! Erv
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That is quite a cat for that age and if the vet said she doesn't look and act her age she is going to be with you for a lot longer! Glad to see that she approved of your purchase after the inspection! Erv
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I am looking at the cuts you made and not knowing how you have the project facing on the table, I am willing to bet that you are sawing from right to left or left to right. I am assuming that by the way the cut pattern is moving up and down. If that is what you are doing, turn the wood so that you can bring the wood toward you and that will make staying on the line much easier. That pattern has a lot of straight lines and a few curves. In fact before you give up on the spirals, take a piece of scrap 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch, draw a bunch of straight lines and a few curves and try bring the wood toward you and also try "pushing" it away from you. You will notice the difference right off! The same use of pulling the wood toward you also will work on gradually curves. I have not used any Pegus spirals so cannot comment on them but the FD NS work the best for myself, nothing larger than #1. Erv
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I have the Dremel plunge router that I use for the large patterns that require a small drill bit and I do have a drill press for the 1/16th and larger bits for the thicker woods. The plunge router for me works great and drills the hole straight in thinner woods or the stack versions of 3 to 4 1/8th inch. Erv
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I am sure what I am going to say will bring out hand wringers but this type of pattern is really, in my own opinion, a pattern designed to use spiral blades such as a 2/0 or #1. So far you are doing a great job with those big blades but do shop around and try to get a variety pack of blades from Flying Dutchman, Pegus, and Olsen. That will give you some different sizes to work with and find the one that you can use the best. Also if you find the cutting going to aggressive slow your speed down and get used to the feed rate, not to fast, not to slow, just let the blade do its thing. You are off to a great start and be sure to show us the finished project! Erv
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I have heard of some of the older scrollers that would take the blade and with 2 pliers, one near where the spiral teeth begin and with the other one twist the top and bottom to achieve a flat surface. For me this was easier said than done! I just flatten both ends with a small tack hammer on a bench vise with an anvil. This works for me as far as making it easier to clamp the blades into the holders. Erv
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I too dropped my subscription 4 years ago and manly because for some unknown reason I was completely banded from their members scroll saw "club"! Do not know why and was never given a reason and would not correspond with me so as far as I am concerned they too can go bankrupt! Erv
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I did notice that you have one "tool" that resembles a small refrigerator! That "tool" will get used a lot! lol Erv
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My go to blade has always been the FDUR blades since they first came on the market and the reason was the straight tracking of the blade even though the #5 blade for what ever reason always tracked to the left a lot more than the other #s. I cut all thickness's with the UR but with 3/4 inch they take more time even though I go to the #7 or #9. When I cut the thick wood I switch to the pegas MG blade for the quicker cut and the sawdust and chips are cleared out of the kerf much faster. For compound cuts Pegas MG blades is the only way to go! Erv
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I have cut a lot of compound designs, every thing from 3/4 inch to 1 inch and half and using different woods from basswood, pine, red oak, and laminated hardwoods and using different blades such as the Pegus mg 7 & 9, fd polar 5 & 7. Taping the wood helps and the use of a adjustable clamp to hold the project together and make it easier to cut is a must. Steve has a simple pattern to do this. The one thing about pine is the grain and the way it will resist the direction the blade is cutting. You might try poplar as it is available at Lowe's in that size. For me poplar is easier to cut and will finish much better. Erv
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When I was cutting a lot of portrait style fret work, I was framing them with glass as I too live in the southwest and the ground here is adobe and in the spring when the wind is howling it does keep out the dust some what. I would finish the project with a couple of coats of satin clear front and back to keep what ever moisture might be present from the wood. If you knew that the work would be going to a dust free environment than I would leave the glass out. Just my opinion, they look good either way. Erv
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The last pattern that I bought from Old Crow Scrollworks was one that I had him make of a well known person to the quilting community and he received the request the day after that his wife had passed away. He responded right back telling me that it would be a while before he would be able to do a pattern and it was about 2 weeks later. Not knowing him in person but I really thank that the passing of his wife was more than he could handle and to me explains his move into the retirement home. The site does need to be taken down but he may not be able to do so or does not have the capability to do it. It is so sad that he no longer can do the style of patterns that he was known for. Erv
