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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. I always set it to the highest tension possible. Sometimes, if after setting the tension I feel it not tensioned enough, I will release the tension, push down on the upper arm. If there is any slack or bow in the blade I will release the bottom blade clamp while still pushing down on the upper arm to release the slack or bow and then tighten the blade clamp, then re tension. I never break blades because of high tension, but break blades because of low tension.
  2. Nice work!
  3. dgman

    Clock

    Nice looking clock Berry. Your Buddy is sure to love it!
  4. Keep up with the therapy Edward, that's important!
  5. Great work Peter!
  6. If it is a real deal, I would defiantly go for it, but understand, BLO won't do a whole lot for plywood or Baltic birch. It does wonders for hardwood though.
  7. Nice work Jim!
  8. All I can say is WOW!!! For those that don't know Charles Dearing, he draws his patterns by hand with a pencil! Fantastic cutting of a great pattern!
  9. Well Kevin, I do not belong to any faith. All those symbols represent light, peace and love in different faiths. I agree with all the above.
  10. Beautiful work Terry Lee!
  11. Nice work Al!
  12. Of course! You can make sharp turns with any blade if you know how to do it, but defiantly with the FD UR blades.The UR blades cut like a reverse tooth blade. The difference is instead of the bottom teeth point up on a reverse tooth blade, there are two teeth pointing down and one facing up all along the UR blade. They are sharper and last a lot longer. The only caveat is they are a little more aggressive than regular blades so you have to get used to them. I would practice with them before committing to a project. Once you get used to the agressivness, you will love them!
  13. Yeah, I might have to steal that idea! Thanks Gordie!
  14. Love them Gordie! Are they all the same size?
  15. I can't tell you what's best for you, but I can tell you what's best for me. I would stack two layers of 1/4" solid oak and cut with a FD UR #1 or #3. Clear packing tape on top of the pattern. If I feel I need tape on the bottom, I would glue on a scrap piece of paper first, then clear packing tape, that way the tape will come off with the pattern.
  16. That puzzle is a good seller. I average about four a year at $28 each. I probably could sell more if I made more! I make them out of Mahogany, walnut, Red Oak and Cherry.
  17. Looks like something Kris's Kreations needs!
  18. Thanks Doug, it does look useful!
  19. I have heard of it but I just don't see it as practical. As you know, most scroll saw blades have a "lead" to them causing them to cut at an angle, and every blade will be different. In my opinion, you need to bite the bullet and invest in a small table saw. Check out Craig's list and see what's available in your area. There are job site saws that fold up so you can tuck it into a corner. Look into it!
  20. Had to chuckle Roly as I envisioned something completely different!
  21. Glued up boards to make wider boards is standard in any woodworking shop. What you find in hardware stores should hold together without any problem. I routinely glue up boards to make wider blanks without any problems. Quite often I will re saw thicker boards, glue them together, then when dry, run them through the planer. Now I have thin wide boards!
  22. Ditto
  23. All of the above plus it Is more economical as you will have twice the amount of oil for a lot less. I keep my mix in a couple of quart size glass mason jars. I pour the oil mix into an old metal baking pan to soak my projects. When done, I pour the oil back into the glass jars. Pour a little mineral spirits into the pan to clean it out. I fill a five gallon bucket of sawdust from my dust collector to dump the used mineral spirits. When that's full, I dump it into a large trash bag and through it into the trash.
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