dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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Hey Jim, I do not think we have met, unless you have seen me doing a demo at the Woodcraft store in Ventura. I know you will be in Bakersfield this weekend (that is if you can get through from all the flooding going on) and I will be doing the the Thousand Oaks street fair on Sunday so we won't be meeting this weekend either. I'm sure we will meet at some point!
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Great work Jim, you defiantly will do well! Hopefully, it won't be as hot there as it has been here this week!
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Jerry, come out to Southern California and I'll teach you all those little tricks. I have a scroll saw class next month at the Woodcraft store.
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Just to clarify, there are two basic types of puzzles we scrollers cut. Jig saw puzzles, and standup puzzles. Jig saw puzzles are usually cut from a good quality 1/4" plywood like Baltic birch. Stand up puzzles are usually cut from 3/4" -1" woods. You assemble them laying down, then you can stand them up. The puzzle blades are a 3/0 skip tooth blade and are designed for jig saw puzzles. For stand up puzzles, I use either a #3 or a # 5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blade.
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Great looking ornament and stand Dick! Very nice work!
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If the project is thick enough, I use a key hole bit in a router and mill a slot about two or three inches long depending on the witdth of the project. A small screw or nail in the wall will fit the slot, and adjust to level. If the project is to small or thin for a key hole slot, I use little triangle hangers mounted with a small screw. If it is to thin for a screw, I glue it on with E6000. This stuff will glue anything to anything and sets in an hour or so.
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Tho only difference is the blade clamps look just a little different, but function just the same. The over all difference is the type I was made in Canada and the type II is made in Tiwan. If you have a type I, it is over fifteen years old.
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Welcome to the Village John! Either of these saws will work out great for you. Things to compare are warrantee, availability, and of course price. Also items included like the stand. Don't consider weather it comes with a light as they are crapp. The next step up would be the Excalibur EX 21. A lot more expensive, but worth it. Let us know what you choose.
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Welcome to the Village James!
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Welcome to the village Said! There is a Welth of information here, and hopefully, you will add to us!
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Love those Dan! Great work!
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Great work Clayton! Please post a pic after the finish is applied.
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Great work Andy! She will love that ornament.... I mean bauble!
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Not in any camp, but did you drop your Jack-o- lantern?
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That is the original Excalibur saw made in Canada. The DeWalt saw was modeled after that saw. Unfortunately, that saw is no longer supported as the original manufacturer (Summerville Designs) is no longer around. I would give it a good test drive and might buy it as a backup, but not as a primary saw. Offer $150 and no more!
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I agree with Len, high tension on the blade. Low tension will cause blade breakage. As has been mentioned, let the blade do the cutting, do not force the cut. Make sure you are not applying lateral pressure on the blade when making sharp turns. Most folks use a high quality plywood like Baltic birch. I'm sure others will come on with other plywoods they use. It's great that you are cutting freehand. Jig saw puzzles look more handmade when cut freehand. Puzzle blades are typically a 3/0 skip tooth blade. If you still break them, try using a 2/0 skip tooth blade. They are a little bigger and may hold up a little better.
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Very nice work Marg!!
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Cut this C. Dearing Angel for my aunt as a Christmas gift....
dgman replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in Bragging Rights
Nice work Steve! -
Nice work Frank!
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Well Ralph, I think the scrolling fairies are telling you it's time for a new saw!
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Wow Matt, that is beautiful! You're brother in law will love that!
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Great cutting Tony. I like the frame, but I'm not a fan of using glass.
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Great work Paul! That will look great in a handmade frame.
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Congratulations Kurt! I'm with Paul! It's always a good idea to have a spare!
