dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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Yup, I love my sanding mops! I have one in 120 grit and a 220 grit.
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Nice cutting Jim!
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Looks like you'r staying busy Roly, nice work!
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Cool work Tony!
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Nice work Jim, I like those a lot!
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Yup, me too.
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There's nothing wrong with using a block or piece of wood to hold up the arm, but for me is unnecessary. I am a top feeder. I have no reason to hold the arm up mechanically to change a blade or to feed it into the next hole. To change a blade I just feed the blade through the fret hole, then the table hole, then mount it to the top blade clamp. Then mount the blade to the bottom clamp and tension. No need to raise the arm. To change to another fret hole, release the tension, release the bottom blade clamp. With one hand raise the upper arm, move the blank into position, let gravity lower the upper arm while guiding the blade into the hole with the other hand. Then tighten the blade clamp and add tension. It take longer to explain it than to actually do it! This process work well for most fret work but may not work well when using spiral blades with very tiny holes.
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I always set it to the highest tension possible. Sometimes, if after setting the tension I feel it not tensioned enough, I will release the tension, push down on the upper arm. If there is any slack or bow in the blade I will release the bottom blade clamp while still pushing down on the upper arm to release the slack or bow and then tighten the blade clamp, then re tension. I never break blades because of high tension, but break blades because of low tension.
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Made this pattern for a friend of mines sister.
dgman replied to Steve Curtis's topic in Bragging Rights
Great work Steve! -
Nice work!
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Nice looking clock Berry. Your Buddy is sure to love it!
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Keep up with the therapy Edward, that's important!
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Star Wars...Thanks for the inspiration Gator.......
dgman replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in Bragging Rights
Excellent work steve! -
Great work Peter!
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If it is a real deal, I would defiantly go for it, but understand, BLO won't do a whole lot for plywood or Baltic birch. It does wonders for hardwood though.
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Nice work Jim!
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All I can say is WOW!!! For those that don't know Charles Dearing, he draws his patterns by hand with a pencil! Fantastic cutting of a great pattern!
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Well Kevin, I do not belong to any faith. All those symbols represent light, peace and love in different faiths. I agree with all the above.
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Beautiful work Terry Lee!
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Nice work Al!
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Of course! You can make sharp turns with any blade if you know how to do it, but defiantly with the FD UR blades.The UR blades cut like a reverse tooth blade. The difference is instead of the bottom teeth point up on a reverse tooth blade, there are two teeth pointing down and one facing up all along the UR blade. They are sharper and last a lot longer. The only caveat is they are a little more aggressive than regular blades so you have to get used to them. I would practice with them before committing to a project. Once you get used to the agressivness, you will love them!
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Yeah, I might have to steal that idea! Thanks Gordie!
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Love them Gordie! Are they all the same size?
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I can't tell you what's best for you, but I can tell you what's best for me. I would stack two layers of 1/4" solid oak and cut with a FD UR #1 or #3. Clear packing tape on top of the pattern. If I feel I need tape on the bottom, I would glue on a scrap piece of paper first, then clear packing tape, that way the tape will come off with the pattern.
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That puzzle is a good seller. I average about four a year at $28 each. I probably could sell more if I made more! I make them out of Mahogany, walnut, Red Oak and Cherry.
