dgman
-
Posts
6,555 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by dgman
-
It’s true it takes time to figure out how to connect the blade to the bottom clamp without looking, but once you learn, you will find how easy it is to top feed. No more lifting the board to feed the blade. It is more difficult to top feed when using spiral blades because the down facing teeth and tiny holes. But I don’t use spirals that often. Folks who only use spirals will most likely have to bottom feed. But I tend to cut more fret work than portraits. On average, it takes me 10-15 seconds to move the blade from one hole to the next without looking to connect the the blade to the bottom clamp, all by feel. Like I said earlier, I used to have a Jim Dandy, but I found it easier to lift the arm and let gravity lower the arm, without having to pull it down.
-
Very nice Dan! What kind of wood did you use?
-
Like it I do!
-
Great haul Mimi! What kind of wood is it and where did you get it?
-
You guys need to read the whole forum. Scott has a current post in the Coffe House section.
-
I’m with Jerry on this! I used to have a Jim Dandy arm lifter on my saw, ( DeWALT) but quickly discovered it was in my way. Took it off and dumped it!
-
You can have them order one and have it delivered to you or the store.
-
I too like the Deft Clear Wood Finish which is a lacquer. It is hard to find here in California. I used to get it at Home Depot and Lowes. I can now only get it at a small chain called Orchard Supply or Osh. Deft also sells a water bourn finish, which I hate. I don’t know what difference a metal ball over a glass ball makes unless you collect balls!
-
The PS blades have been around for years, yet not to many scrollers use them. That should say something!
-
Beautiful job Les!
-
Barb, this is a post from 2012. Dale hasn’t been on since 2013.
-
It is a product of over tightening. You should not have to tighten the clamp that tight. If the blade slips in the blade clamp, things need to be cleaned and dressed. I don’t know anything about Hawks, so I don’t know what needs to be dressed, but 220 grit sand paper will clean and dress the mating surfaces. Also I routinely sand the ends of my blades to clean off the oil on the blades.
-
Cool work Bobby, welcome back to the saw!
-
Les, it is well known in the woodworking world that silicone contamination can affect some finishes. What finish can be affected I’m not sure, but I wouldn’t take the chance.
-
Excellent work Clayton!
-
I will repeat what others have said. All finishes sold in North America as a finish will be non toxic when fully cured. Things like lemon oil and orange oil are sold as cleaners and polishes. They are not ment as a finish. Mineral oil is not toxic but never fully dries. Your layered basket is designed as a nut bowl or a candy dish. I would use an oil like Danish oil or a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits, then a topcoat of your choice. It should protect the project nicely and be food safe!
-
Some beautiful work Dave!
-
All has already been said! Amazing work Dick!
-
Nice work Duke!
-
Everyone has their own favorite blades. I used Olsen blades for many years, and still use sometimes. I mostly use FD Ultra Reverse blades now. I have tried the Pegas MG blades, and still have some, but I did not like them enough to chance over. In fact, I just bought two gross of U R blades last week.
-
I agree with all three above. I never paint except backer boards.
-
Beautiful piece Jeff!
-
Very nice!
