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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. dgman
    Looks good Les!
  2. dgman
    All the scroll saw catalog and online stores carry them. Having said that, I don't own a set. If I need to clean something up or reshape, I just go back and clean it up with the blade. Quicker and easier!
  3. dgman
    Welcome back Bobby. Glad you are on the mend!
  4. dgman
    No, I don't feel guilty! Things happen. If I can glue it back together without it showing, I have no problem with that.
  5. dgman
    Smart thinking Dan! They look great!
  6. dgman

    Two Horses

    dgman replied to hotshot's topic in Bragging Rights

    Another stunning piece Randy!
  7. dgman
    I'm with you Ike, I don't read long posts either!
  8. dgman
    What kind of wood is it? Is it kiln dried? To what grit did you sand it to? What kind of finish did you use? These are thing we need to know before we can help.
  9. dgman
    1-1/2" wood will tax any saw. The reason the skip tooth blade cut better is it does not have reverse teeth. Pegas MG blades ar a reverse tooth blade. The reverse teeth don't allow the sawdust to clear the kerf as well hence, the slow cutting. I use Flying Dutchman Polar blades in 3, 5 and 7 for compound cutting. They have a slight set to the teeth. This make a slightly wider kerf to help displace the sawdust. Even with the right blade, it will still be slow cutting, but can be done. I routinely use hardwoods for compound cutting such as Walnut, Cherry, Maple, Mahogany and more. I've even cut Yelloheart and Purpleheart with the Polar blade.
  10. dgman
    First of all, if you are going to use plywood, use a high quality plywood like Baltic birch. As far as scrollsaw sanders, I have never used them. If I need to correct something, I go back and clean it up with the blade. if I bend a blade, it's trash. It gets tossed!
  11. dgman
    Brian, stop being a crumudegon and enjoy them! You can go to your profile page for an explaination of them. Or, just ignore them!
  12. dgman
    I have a few things hanging on walls. Tons of things given as gifts over the years. Anymore, everything I make is put up for sale in the two shows I do at the end of the year.
  13. dgman
    Cool work Todd!
  14. dgman
    I think it is great to have a rep from the manufactures of the tools we use on the forum. Right here, on this forum is the pulse of the scroll saw Community. From begginers to professionals and in between, we can all learn from each other if we are willing to listen to each other. PeterK, you are welcome here. If you are willing to listen to us, yours will become a superior product!
  15. dgman
    We go way back, don't we Marg?
  16. dgman
    Nice looking piece Dave, great work!
  17. dgman
    Hi, my name is Dan and I am a top Feeder........ Oh wait, that is a different topic. Call me Dan. Don't call me Danny or Daniel. Not that there is anything wrong with those names, I just don't answer to them.
  18. dgman
    3 In One is a brand name of a light machine oil. If it says "3 In One", it's what you need.
  19. dgman
    The younger generations wouldn't understand the second one! Very nice cutting!
  20. dgman
    Yes you are a bottom feeder! All sixteen inch saws (except the EX saws) are bottom feeders. The DeWalt saw, EX type saws and current Delta saw as well as Buston Hawks have a lifting top arm to facilitate top feeding. However, you can still bottom feed if you want on these saws. I started on a Dremel 16" saw. On average, it would take two minitues to chance from one hole to the next. Now, as a top feeder, I can change from hole to hole in about 10 to 20 seconds! The benefit of top feeding is you don't have to lift the board up off the table to feed the blade. Instead, you release the lower clamp, raise the top arm then lower the top arm while lining up the blade to the hole then lower the top arm then reattach the blade to the lower clamp then tension. It's far more easier then it sounds. It does take some time to get to used to it but once you get the hang of it, you will never go back to bottom feeding!
  21. dgman
    I still use the old Imperial measurements. I'm too old to change. As far as frames, I make my own to fit the project rather than trying to size the project to a frame.
  22. dgman
    The saw may be worth about $250. The table looks a little rusty. I don't know anything about the spindle sander.
  23. dgman
    Ray, we had this question a couple of weeks ago, so you might go back and look for it. I have both. I have a very nice Makita Palm sander. It comes with plastic punch to punch holes in the paper for dust collection. It works great, but I never use it! I have two old Porter Cable 333 random orbital sanders. One is a spare for when my primary ROS dies as they are no longer available. I keep it permanently hooked up to my Shop Vac with a Dust Deputy in between. I sand all my blanks with the ROS before I cut up to 220 grit. Then, when finished cutting, I'll touch up the fuzzies with a piece of 220 sand paper. In most cases, I don't have to re-sand after cutting. The palm sander sits in its nice form fitted plastic case on a shelf collection dust! BTW, I didn't buy the Makita, I won it when I used to belong to the local Woodworking club. I also won the spare Poter Cable 333!
  24. dgman
    Great looking projects Jim! Could the round one be Alder?
  25. dgman
    The most important factor is knowing why the wood warps. As mentioned above wood moves with uneven moisture absorption. You set a thin board flat on your workbench, it most certainly will warp or cup because the top will absorb moisture and the bottom won't. If you plane the wood yourself, you need to take off the same amount off each side, or the wood will warp. When you get your nice wood in the mail, let it sit in the package for a few days. Then unwrap your wood and stack with "stickers" in between each layer to allow even air circulation around all the boards. Or you can lean the boards up against a wall at an angle for even air circulation.
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