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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. dgman
    That's a great save Rob! The only one I saw was the B. But I had to look real hard to find it. I think this one defiantly calls for another beer!!
  2. dgman
    CHEERS!!!
  3. dgman
    Cool work Al !
  4. dgman
    Bummer dude! We've all been there. Can it be glued back together?
  5. dgman
    If it where mine, I would use 1/8" BB the same diameter as the back piece as a backer. Either stain or paint it to contrast the the forest scene.
  6. dgman
    Grampa!! Second would be Steve Good. Both are Free! Oh, then there Birchbark and Bobscroll. All free!
  7. dgman
    SSome girls get all the swag!!
  8. dgman
    Welcome to the forum. You have been given some good advise so far. The one thing I see in the photos is the table on the Delta is rusty. Rust is easily removed with steel wool and mineral spirits. But, if the table is rusty, what is the condition inside the saw? Something I would be worried about.
  9. dgman
    Very impressive work! Welcome to the village. Looks like you will have a lot to offer! So, come on in and join the fun!
  10. dgman
    You didn't know they were self propelled?. Seriously though, the blades you get at the big box store are crap! FD blades are great as are Olson and Pegas blades. You will read over and over again, don't use the blades that come with a new saw and the ones you can get at the big box stores like Bosch or Vermont America.
  11. dgman
    Sweet!
  12. dgman
    If cutting portraits, I use blue painter tape on the edges only. If cutting items from within, like ornaments, I use hot glue on the edges.
  13. dgman
    Everyone has there own way of doing things. I don't use anything under the pattern because I hate having to remove all the little bits around the frets as Paul described. I do use clear packing tape on top of the pattern. The pattern and tape come off easily with heat from a heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun you can use a hair drier. if the heat gun is problematic, I'll spray the pattern with mineral sprits. Let it sit for a few minitues. The pattern will just pull right off. Then with a clean rag, wipe off the mineral spirits.
  14. dgman
    I've always sent them with the insert installed, not set with the battery installed but not activated, mailed with the instruction sheet that comes with the clock insert.
  15. dgman
    One of the biggest reasons blades break is not enough tension. If the blade flops around while it's cutting it will break. You want the blade to give a high "Ping" when you pluck it. Don't be afraid to get it that high, they are designed for it.
  16. dgman
    I call it waste, and that's how I treat it. If you save it, soon you will accumulate so much waste, you'll wonder why you are saving it!
  17. dgman
    A word of caution. As has been stated, the wax is applied to wet wood to slow down drying so the wood does not check or split. What this means is the wood may not be as dry as kiln dried wood would be. As wood dries, it may develop checks and may distort. Hopefully, this won't happen if the wood was dry enough.
  18. dgman
    I have two. One as a backup, but I also ocaisionally give private lessons in my shop, so it's good to have the second saw.
  19. dgman
    Big game? What big game?
  20. dgman
    On either one of your examples, you cut away the white. In the second one, the shading is the "wood". But not al patterns are the same. For example, the first one could be cut either was. You could cut away the the black and have a portrait style project. Or you could cut away the white and have a cut out or silhouette type project. I will always study a pattern before I cut it. Sometimes you will come across a pattern that does not have any shading or black at all. I will study it and decide which is the waste and which is the project. Sometimes I will even shade the project side just to keep track of the pattern.
  21. dgman
    Beautiful work Marg!
  22. dgman
    Here's mine. I do several demos and teach several classes a year, so I decided to make mine a little more appealing. Made from Mahogany with a BB overlay on the back. The overlay is a Steve Good pattern. The tubes are from Sloan's Woodshop. I make the labels with my Brother Label maker.
  23. dgman
    I see you have a level on your table. It matters not that your table is level to the floor. It does matter that your table is square to the blade. Use a small square or a protractor to do this.
  24. dgman
    Hey Sam, since you mentioned future projects, I'll chime in. For a project like this, I never use Baltic birch plywood, I always use hardwoods. Mahogany or Walnut would be perfect! I never stain. i bring out the natural beauty of the wood with a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Then a top coat of a spray on lacquer.
  25. dgman
    You have gotten some great advice so far. As already mentioned, it takes practice. I too am a scroll saw instructor. I start my students off using pine as it is cheap and easy to cut. But you will never get a smooth cut edge without sanding. Also if you stain it, it will come out very blotchy. 99% of my project are cut from hardwoods. With proper cutting techniques, you should never have to sand your edges. Especially with hardwoods. Woods like Maple, Cherry and Walnut come out with perfectly smooth edges that don't need sanding if you don't make any mistakes! My advice to you is keep using pine for practice. Once you have some experience under your belt, start using some hardwoods. But, practice, practice, practice!
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