browders
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Everything posted by browders
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Welcome. Hope you'll post some pictures of your projects.
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I have two boys who live in the Minneapolis area. They are truly die hard Vikings fans. For Christmas I'm making them each a set of coasters.
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Welcome Roy, I'm interested about the use of Picasa. This is a great site.
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Judging by the quality of work posted on this website, I know I'm a little out of my league. As a dedicated Apple user I have cast about looking for software to design patterns. I know people use Coreldraw, but that's a PC based program. Imagine my excitement to learn about the existence of Inkscape, and even more so the fact that it's free to use. So, with the guidance from Travis' excellent tutorials, I'm finally learning the basics. Got a long way to go, but here is my first attempt. Belle.pdf
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I think it's some kind of chat format. Don't really understand it. I assume it's so some computer programmer can make a living.
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I tried to enter myself on the member map and kept getting an error message from Google. Don't know what's up with that.
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Well I'm probably exposing myself as a rank neophyte for jumping into this conversation. I agree that Flying Dutchman blades are high quality, consistent, and hold an edge well. That said I find I have a hard time controlling them when sawing thin stock. I don't know if the teeth are that much more aggressive, or (more likely) I just haven't learned how to control them yet. I have good luck with Olson blades, although I don't think the quality of cut is as good, at least I seem to ruin fewer boards. I'm still practicing with the Dutchman blades hoping I can figure it out.
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Thanks guys. Great suggestions. I'm glad to see there is a solution.
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Here in Northwestern Montana, wood suitable for wood working is tough to find. We are surrounded by forests, but alas, not the right kind. Being somewhat miserly, I have come to rely on scraps from cabinet making friends, old flooring, and old furniture from thrift stores. These all work wel which brings me to my question. Most of this wood is 3/4" thick. Most of my projects are 1/2" or less. What I have been doing is planing the wood to the correct thickness. The unfortunate result is that 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the product ends up as sawdust on the floor. I was wondering if a band saw would be appropriate to rip the wood to the correct thickness (or nearly so) thereby making more of the boards useable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Welcome aboard charlie. Lots of great people and information here.
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Ooh! Looks like Christmas came a little early for one of santa's good kids.
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Stacking, tape, and what works for me.
browders replied to browders's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Thanks HG. I think I have some of that too. -
Stacking, tape, and what works for me.
browders replied to browders's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Thanks Roly. I hadn't thought of that. Great idea. I think I have a glue gun somewere. -
I don't often stack projects, but there are occasions when it's preferable. I have tried using clear tape to hold things together, but found it to be difficult. It seems that no matter how hard I try to get a good stick with the tape, I always end up with sawdust getting underneath and obscuring the line. What seems to work for me, is to secure the two pieces of wood together using a pin nailer in the waste sections. After nailing, I then clip and file the protrusions on the under side so as to not scratch the saw table. I then attach the pattern in the usual manner and saw. So far this has worked well in the applications I've tried.
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So, does that include the freezer part?
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Those are fine looking ornaments. People are gonna be happy to get them.
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Thanks guys, you info helps. I guess I won't worry about it and just continue to do what I am doing until something changes. I started out with a Ryobi with the tension adjust in the back and no reference numbers. That cost a lot of blades. Since having the DeWalt, blade breakage has been reduced to almost zero. I love that machine. I'm sure the other brands out there have their advantages, but for the price I'm pretty happy.
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I was reading another post and it raised questions for me not exactly related. I use a DeWalt saw which I love. Early on in my learning experience I read somewhere that the blade tension should be set as tight as possible without breaking the blade. In the other post a contributor said to you should never have to tighten the blade past 2 - 2.5. I have been setting the tension at 3.5 - 4 depending on the blade. To date I have not had any problems with blade breakage. Am I inviting disaster by have the tension set that high? Also in the same post I noticed people promoting some type of lift assist for the DeWalt saw. My experience has been that the arm will stay up unassisted at least long enough to change blades and set up projects.
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I bought a Jet air filter to use in my shop. Paid about $300.00 for it. Looking at what you have, it appears to do everything mine does, only for a fraction of the cost. Good job!
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I am probably one of the guilty people. You those ones who joined but never posted. My name is Jim from Kalispell, MT. I retired three years ago after a twenty five year career in local law enforcement. I started scrolling as a way to just decompress after so many years of dealing with people at their worst. This has become my favorite hobby, surpassing even fishing (well maybe not) as a way to pass the time. I'm still on the wrong end of the learning curve, but have learned a lot from reading posts from those who really know what they're doing. I don't feel I have a lot to offer at this point, but hopefully as time goes by, I'll develop some skills worth sharing.
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I retired from law enforcement just over 2 years ago. About a year ago I discovered scroll saw projects and found it to be an excellent way to enhance my retirement. Needless to say I have a long way to go. I learned something today. I was cutting a fairly intricate pattern in 1/4 in. poplar. I had been using a 2/0 Olson reverse tooth blade. When it became dull I switched to a Flying Dutchman in the same size. I started cutting again and was surprised at the difference. The Flying dutchman was hard for me to control and I ultimately swapped it out for another Olson. I like the Flying Dutchman for thicker wood, but I'm not quite man enough to control it in the thin stuff.
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I have never had much luck using tape and I've never tried glue. For me what works best is a 23 gauge pin nailer. I shoot several into the waste area and use a file to smooth off the parts that stick through the other side. The pins are small enough that the wood never splits, and should I have to nail into an area I plan to keep, the holes are small enough to be nearly invisible.
