Sycamore67

While I know that the graph that I showed is correct for my dust collectors, I do not know for certain that it applies to the shop vacuums which have a different type of motor. I ordered some parts which I will have on Friday and be able to run the tests. As I mentioned before, I have seen several graphs for different dust collectors which show the same type of variation of amps and flow. If people have doubts about my dust collector test results, I have published them on Lumberjocks forum with lots of graphs. You can read them if you are interested in my methodology and results here and here.

The last post was quite interesting but not correct. This data was taken during testing of my dust collector. I used a test pipe and constricted the flow using an funnel into the end of the pipe. By moving the funnel in and out, I was able to control the amount of “constriction” and therefore the flow of air. This is a common methodology for testing a dust collector. The air flow was obtained using a hot wire anemometer and a digital static pressure gauge. Flow readings were taken across the pipe in accordance with standard duct measurement procedures and multiple tests were done. At the same time, for each “constriction”, a current measurement was done with a clamp on meter. Also, the testing was done with various sized hoses and the data from the two types of tests were identical. The data that I obtained was very close to that from the mfg. It does not matter if I constrict the flow with the funnel test setup or with a hose, I still get the same amps for a given flow, cfm. You imply that I did not properly use the graph. Please explain exactly which law of thermodynamics you think I am breaking. While I have used thermodynamics extensively through my career, I have no idea what you are suggesting. Please, if you have some data on dust collectors which refutes what I have posted, please show it to the forum. Have you done similar testing?

The amount of current or work is related to the amount of air being moved. If you constrict the intake of a dust collector, you will move less air and the current will be lower. If you open up the intake of a dust collector, you move more air and the current will be higher. This is what my graph shows and what has been shown by a bunch of people who have measured it.

The chart I provided is very common with dust collectors. The amount of work it is doing is related to the amount of air it is pushing. When you constrict the flow, you reduce the amount of air being pushed reducing the amount of work and current. On a dust collector if you remove the filter and open up the inlet, you can risk burning up a motor.

I agree completely as the price is way to high.

I do not understand the need for a bleeder. With dust collectors, if you constrict it wit a small diameter hose, it draws less amps. The larger the hose the more cfm it sucks and higher amperage. If only know if this works for vacuums or not. Below is a graph of data from my dust collector. As you make the pipe or hose smaller less air can go thru it and the flow, cfm, goes down as does the current.

I built a dust collection system in 2013 for my Hegner and connected to a Festool CT26. It has worked very well.

Sorry as there are no plans, I just kind of built it to fit my Shopsmith and took ideas from a bunch of places. It was not difficult.

One can do almost anything by hand but a Sand-Flee type tool makes it easier. One use I have found is with boxes. When I make small boxes with finger joints or dovetails it works great to sand the corners down. I spent maybe $50 to make my sander as it was wood and hardware store stuff. Could it be done by hand....certainly. However, as I get older and with arthritis, I do less work like that by hand.

There are still two models being sold on the RJR website. Here are some pictures of the one I made and works on my Shopsmith. It is great for some work. I use it when making boxes, puzzles, and a lot of other things. I would not pay what they cost for a real one but this one did not cost much. The sanding drum is a piece of PVC pipe with wooden ends. The top is adjustable to change how much is sanded and there is dust collection inside of it. With the Shopsmith, I can vary the speed of the sanding drum. I also use the Shopsmith with pneumatic sanding drums, sanding mops and many other sanding items.

Would I buy one...probably not. But it is a unique tool and does some amazing things. It costs the same as a new Hegner.

So you in the bottom of the fretwork across it? What grit abrasive do you use?

I looked at them but the price was too high. I built my own that is powered by my Shopsmith and comes in handy at times.

Nice job !!

I think you should go and walk through to see what they have. F you buy something beware that they have good coupons. They also have a reasonable website.

Not all LED bulbs can be dimmed. I read the info on the two with links and it did not mention if they were dimmable.

I doubt if a comparative review would help as everyone's eyes are different along with the type of glasses you wear and the distance you are from your workpiece. Many times a store will have one on display that you can try. I could feel the difference and comfort of using between different ones. The HF ones made my eyes hurt. I tried an Ottlite in a Joann Fabric Store and another brand at a Hobby Lobby.

There is a pretty big difference in the optical quality of magnifying lamps. I had a HF and hurt my eyes. I got an Ottlite and much happier. Your eyes will tell you which one is best.

Trust us, the Quick clamp is the way to go. There is a stop at the back of it to position the blade. I also have a different handle on mine.

Nice find and great saw.

I sand the surface first with 220-320 and wipe clean as it helps with adhesion. I use mainly blue 3m tape and 33M77 to adhere the pattern. But the choice of pattern mounting system is also depend on the project. I would do it one way for fretwork but different for puzzles, Intarsia, etc.

Unfortunately, I am certain that the picture is copyrighted and as such sharing even for free is not allowed. When in doubt, I do not share art work.

Yes, like any tool, I check for square. Drafting squares or triangles are typically accurate but good to check.

The Miterset is a precision tool. If you are cutting a lot of segments for turning, it is great. For setting a 45 angle, a good drafting square will work great and much cheaper.

I went to a Steam and Power Show yesterday and they had a lot of old steam powered machinery and old gas powered engines. I saw this gas powered scroll saw and decided I had to post it. It was running on a 1 hp gas engine.