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Chiloquinruss

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Everything posted by Chiloquinruss

  1. Not quite 78 here but that's OK. It just means I have more shop time as the outside work has to wait! Russ
  2. Amazon $89 https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Drafting-Stool-Adjustable-Foot/dp/B072Y2S76T/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B072Y2S76T&psc=1 Russ
  3. What I use for hanging heavy items is called a "french cleat". It's really pretty simple as the attached video will show. The pix is of a sign at our club. It is an eight footer made from 4 sheets of ply! Quite heavy but it made the hanging a snap. Russ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFvced0deZ8
  4. I'm coming in late to the discussion but I have a 12 year old Hawk and the ONLY issue has been their crappy thumb screws. Only upgrade has been buying better blades. I started with discount bundles and well, you guys all know the result of those! Good luck with what ever you choose and also good luck with your business. Russ
  5. As far as details are concerned I am very lucky that we have a special rule here, it's called the 7-20 rule. It means at 7 miles per hour and 20 feet away, that detail is perfect! The structures stay out all year round so need to be somewhat critter proof, snow proof, bee/wasp proof. It's really fun and our many visitors love them. Thanks again for all the comments. Russ
  6. Thanks for the suggestions for business names, great ideas! I'll have to check copyright stuff but I love it. Thanks to all. Russ
  7. Here's a couple more of my projects for the live steam park (1/8th scale). Enjoy. Russ
  8. Check with a local cabinet shop, they use a lot of BB. A lot of times their scrap is just right for a scroll project. I also haunt the local motorcycle shops as their shipping crates do not use US made plywood, IE read that they use good plywood. Also I have got some great oak boards from those same crates shipped from Europe. For exotic woods for inlays etc. I go online. Russ
  9. To quote an old commercial, that is a gift that will keep on giving! Congrats, take your time doing the assembly and it will be a long time friend! Russ
  10. I'm the only one in my shop Yeah but I still look around to see if anyone saw me do it! Russ
  11. Here is another site that has some fun projects and a free piece of software for playing with gears. He does a great job of explaining 'stuff'. Its a little off topic from the 'clock' thread, but thought I would add it to the this great list of resources. Happy Bird Day! Russ http://woodgears.ca/ He did an article on a clock tower he visited, interesting reading. http://woodgears.ca/misc/clock_tower.html
  12. "not repair or upgrade " That was my situation the local 'repair' shop is $75 hour and the new monitor was $100, daaahhhh! Russ
  13. I have a cabinet table saw and the fence has a scale marker that is aligned to the table edge, therefore on my particular machine the fence is on the right to match the fence to the numerical scale. Russ
  14. The font I used was Script MT Bold. It has the look if not the exact font. Burma Shave signs have a long history and makes for good reading, just Google Burma Shave. I probably know someone from over there but unless they wear a club jacket or similar identifier I may just know them as a fellow hobbyist. Russ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burma-Shave https://www.wfonts.com/font/script-mt-bold
  15. I made a set for our live steam railroad club (Burma Shave signs are part of roadside and railroad history). Of course I used some 'artistic' license! Russ
  16. In my area (southern Oregon) there USED TO BE tons of mills with a variety of wood species. However they are mostly gone. The local recycle lumber guy takes down old structures and salvages what he can from the structures. Sometimes its just old siding material but then again it just might be some interior hardwood kitchen type pieces. Its always an adventure and kinda fun too! Russ
  17. "My biggest drawback is the cost of wood" I found a lumber recycler locally here that mainly caters to those looking for old barn wood type stuff. However he has a ton of scrollable pieces as well and USUALLY pretty cheap. I have a planer and after searching for hidden nails and screws I smooth it out to workable pieces. Russ
  18. Chiloquinruss

    Hawk BM-20

    I am almost embarrassed to post this reply but here goes. I haven't used the machine much for traditional scrolling. I make signs on my CNC machine and use the scroll saw for final cutting of some letters. However most materials are at least 1 inch thick or better. In my usage of the machine I can't remember any issues with getting the stock into the machine or in changing blade positions. See pix below: 1. is the final tension blade top release. It works really easily. 2. Is the piece hold down, that is removable, I find it works really well so I have not removed mine. 3. Is the major arm tension release on the very back of the arm. Again very easy to adjust and or release. As I said I have NOT used the machine in the traditional sense where one must reinsert the blade into pre-drilled holes in the work piece. But I can see no issues with doing that. I hope this long winded answer helps answer your original question. Russ
  19. Chiloquinruss

    Hawk BM-20

    I've messed with wood for many years but am new to scrolling. After reading many reviews I decided on the Hawk. Main reason was most scrollers complained about the hardship of changing blades or simply getting the blades into their work. Well the little I've used my machine I can tell you changing, adjusting, tensioning the blades is a snap. The only thing I added was a foot switch to assist me in my work. Bottom line, I love it and am glad I spent the extra dollars. Russ
  20. Not the cheapest around but their stuff works and they have fast service. Russ http://stockroomsupply.ca/shop/products/
  21. You have a scrollsaw, so where's the ears, the tusks, the legs, the . . . . Love it. Very cool and imaginative. DC 's are boring and noisy, but very necessary. Well done! Russ
  22. https://diypuzzles.wordpress.com/2015/02/12/the-whale-puzzle/ there is a pinterest link to the pattern. Russ
  23. Thinking out loud here, if the final product is to be painted anyhow, how about a light coat of sealer, let dry then do the taping? Might help keep the wood slivers. Just a thought. Russ
  24. The good ones are all gone and those others, you know the ones I mean, well we use those all winter long! Russ
  25. "good luck finding a quality 16" saw" I think that sums up my feelings as well. The size is the DEPTH of the throat, from the blade to the arm. I think the engineering done on the larger machines is better because of the mass of the arm. The smaller machines seem to be built a lot lighter. I have a Hawk and love it. Russ
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