tonylumps
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Everything posted by tonylumps
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The Seyco vac that I have is the old type.Just did not work for me. So i went back to my Fein with tool start and a Dust Deputy.If you go on amazon they have an Auto Start switch that worked great for me when I use my Shop Vac.It has some negative reviews But I used it for Planers,Router Table,Table Saw and never had a problem.just a thought.I use my fein now because it is quieter and the older model Fein that I have has 4 speed settings.so it was quieter than the seyco Vac
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I was born and raised in west Philly.Moved about 20 miles west about 23 years ago.Still go down to South Philly a lot to eat.
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Robert there is an 18" Hegner on Phila. CL .Single speed,No tension lever. 175.00.and that is a good deal .So like everybody said you made a good move.
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I know that the Purpleheart is hard.A Couple of Birdhouses I wish I could set up the scroll saw like a CNC and go have a couple of beers.But I just turn the radio on a country western station and before you know it you have a nice Bird house.Thanks everybody for the compliments
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I like to do crosses too.But I thought just the opposite Why did you find the purple heart more difficult.I thought the Padauk harder to work because of the way it bleed.But after reading up on it a little shellac did the trick.
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I will have to check.I think it is a Sue Mey
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First time working with Padauk and Purple Heart. I wanted to try relieve cuts.That padauk tought me a lesson about bleeding onto a lighter wood.
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Congrats. You made a good score.The saw only comes with 1 set of clamps.You have 50.00 in extra clamps with the quick clamp.The good part about the saw is Advance machinery.are good people to deal with and stock all of the parts and access.I have been dealing with them for a couple of years since i bought my Tormek off of them.That saw is bullet proof.You will appreciate it on compound cuts.But it will break blades if the tension is a little to high.Just a few drops of oil on the 2 bushings about every 8 to 12 hours of run time
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I would invest in the front tension lever. I looked at one without,and it is a pita to keep adjusting the rear tension knob .I just could not get the blade in the same position when i took the blade out of the mounting clamps.You would still be a head of the game.And if it does have the tension lever.You really made a score
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Like Zen Scroller said Is it variable speed if not the Variable motor will cost you as much as a new EX16.Does it have the front tension lever.If it does not have that lever you will have to fiddle with the tension knob in the rear every time you change a blade But you can buy the front lever conversion for about 180.00.If it has variable than the conversion is worth it for what you paid for the saw.The Hegner is a bear .It only has 2 bushing that can wear out .Maintenance is a matter of 2 drops of oil on each bushings about every 8 hours of running time.I have the EX 16 and I love it.But the Hegner is my go to saw for Compound cuts and really hardwoods I notice that the EX does bog down but will not brake blades like the Hegner .Both saws compliment each other
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I have been buying from Ocooch since I started this great hobby.In the begining I thought there prices were high.So I started looking around.Everybody else was a crap shoot.Bowed ,warped, split.Never had a bad piece of wood from Ocooch.So now I stick with them unless i need a piece of lumber that they do not carry.
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Talk about word art. Beautiful
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Your are going to need a lot more Toys. I mean tools.I know you already made out your Santa List..
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Here are the first relief cut projects that I have ever done. The one on the left I cut backwards.So the front is the back now.First one. But using the Sandflee makes rounding the edges a walk in the park. I also found that lower RPM equals more control.
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I got it from RJR studios.It was pre-made.6" It sounds expensive. But supposed to last for years everyday in a cabinet shop.
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If it is bad and pitted what I have used is a 4 1/2 grinder and an old flap wheel that i keep just for cleaning surface rust.WD40 let it set for awhile.Clean with MS and a coat of wax
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Well I did my first relief cut.It was a Sue Mey cross.I glued the relief together and used the Sanding mop to ease off all of the edges. (Will show the results of the sanding when the finish is on).What a pleasure.I still don't look forward to sanding.But this makes it a whole lot easier.I use it on my drill press at about 1900 RPM I broke in the Sand Flee for about 10 Minutes before using it .The one I got was 6" 180 Grit Witch is equal to 220 sand paper .Only need very little pressure and was able to use it on my little Angle Ribbons without launching any of them.Never had to were my gloves.
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Beautiful.wish I had the hands to do that kind of work.
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I just discovered the sand Flee Sanding mop .(Late for dinner is normal for me) This is best thing since electric Scroll saws.How many members use one and witch ones are you using, Grit and diameter
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Thanks I'll try it
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First Major cut on the new to me EX16. Getting the hang of top feed.
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I just did a Review of the EX 16 In the Saw section.I would like some input to see if I am off base I did a little comparison to the Hegner.And that is what I came up with so far. I did quite a few cuts with the EX the past couple of days and I really like it.
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You're right .I did learn to live with it. But I wanted to try the EX for top feed I tried it today, But did not like it .What I did like was that the arm swings out of the way for bottom feed.But I will keep trying it .After all it is new to me.All said it is a really nice saw.So I think i made a good move in getting the EX
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Vibration meter was to sensitive.Both saws showed the same reading.When i did the nickel test the Hegner was clearly the winner.I could go and eat lunch and come back the nickel would still be standing.Not bad for a saw that was made in 2002.But I am liking the blade install on the EX.
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Amazon has the chair. Or google Astronomy chair
